Hi Mike,
That's very interesting. I hadn't heard that suggestion before. I'll give it a try.
Regards
Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Bennett Sent: 11 August 2021 12:42 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [wanderer] boom not horizontal Michael On the Hartley boats I thought the slot in the foot of the mast was supposed to sit over the bolt in the track so it can¡¯t move either way. This means removing the pin and lifting the mast after getting it upright. Mike On 11 Aug 2021, at 11:03, Michael Steele <mjhsmjhs@...> wrote:
?We have had a similar problem on our sailing club Hartleys. Part of the problem can be that the mast step can slide forward. We have found that it helps to put another bolt in the mast step, in front of the mast, then put a wooden or plastic block in the mast step channel, between the bolt and front of the mast step, to push the step right back against the aft bolt (you can¡¯t get a bolt directly in front of the mast due to sides of the tabernacle obstructing the holes). You can then remove the tabernacle pivot bolt, without risk of the mast step sliding forward, and pull the mast more upright. We have found, however, that the shrouds are very short and that they can only be put in the top holes of the chain plates.
As mentioned previously, it is also important to make sure that the mainsail is pulled as high as possible. This is best done before putting the boom on the gooseneck.
If all fails, you can take up some tension on the reefing line to keep the boom from drooping. We sometimes do this with novice crews to increase the head clearance, although it does upset the sail shape.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike
|
screwing into buoyancy tanks
Hi all,
How do you seal screws which penetrate the buoyancy tanks (in a Wanderer Mark 2)? This applies to eg the screws for the swivel plates for the floorboards and the screws at the bottom of the tabernacle. I have a couple of screws which are loose in the fibreglass and leak air / water. Can anyone advise on the best way to recreate a seal? I was thinking about removing the screw, squeezing in some gelcoat and then re-drilling, would this work, and should i also use some sealant?
Very grateful for any views.
thanks
James
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Michael
On the Hartley boats I thought the slot in the foot of the mast was supposed to sit over the bolt in the track so it can¡¯t move either way.
This means removing the pin and lifting the mast after getting it upright.
Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 11 Aug 2021, at 11:03, Michael Steele <mjhsmjhs@...> wrote:
?We have had a similar problem on our sailing club Hartleys. Part of the problem can be that the mast step can slide forward. We have found that it helps to put another bolt in the mast step, in front of the mast, then put a wooden or plastic block in the mast step channel, between the bolt and front of the mast step, to push the step right back against the aft bolt (you can¡¯t get a bolt directly in front of the mast due to sides of the tabernacle obstructing the holes). You can then remove the tabernacle pivot bolt, without risk of the mast step sliding forward, and pull the mast more upright. We have found, however, that the shrouds are very short and that they can only be put in the top holes of the chain plates.
As mentioned previously, it is also important to make sure that the mainsail is pulled as high as possible. This is best done before putting the boom on the gooseneck.
If all fails, you can take up some tension on the reefing line to keep the boom from drooping. We sometimes do this with novice crews to increase the head clearance, although it does upset the sail shape.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike
|
We have had a similar problem on our sailing club Hartleys. Part of the problem can be that the mast step can slide forward. We have found that it helps to put another bolt in the mast step, in front of the mast, then put a wooden or plastic block in the mast step channel, between the bolt and front of the mast step, to push the step right back against the aft bolt (you can¡¯t get a bolt directly in front of the mast due to sides of the tabernacle obstructing the holes). You can then remove the tabernacle pivot bolt, without risk of the mast step sliding forward, and pull the mast more upright. We have found, however, that the shrouds are very short and that they can only be put in the top holes of the chain plates.
As mentioned previously, it is also important to make sure that the mainsail is pulled as high as possible. This is best done before putting the boom on the gooseneck.
If all fails, you can take up some tension on the reefing line to keep the boom from drooping. We sometimes do this with novice crews to increase the head clearance, although it does upset the sail shape.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike
|
I have a pair of old Avon inflatable dinghy oars which split in half and fit in the gap between the thwart and outside of the hull. This space is probably different in the Hartley boats though. They are shorter than ideal but worth it for being able to stow totally out of the way.
On Mon, 9 Aug 2021 at 19:41, eleanor mehew <eleanormehew@...> wrote:
Oars for a Wanderer
I think you probably want yours oars full length to row
comfortably.
We have a 2015 Hartley version of the Wanderer and decided
that we needed both oars and
paddles. So we got Hartley to supply and fit a set of oars.
The oars were 2.25 metres in length.
they fit on the starboard side mostly under the seat but protruding
into the space at the stern. We have not checked how the paddle tips engage
with the spinnaker when dropping it. The pictures showing this are attached.
Hope this helps Eleanor
Hi Everybody,
I normally use an electric outboard but it seems a little on the heavy side when sailing so was looking to use the Oars that we have but where do you store them when sailing, looks as if they need cutting down ?to fit under the seating area. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Regards Keith ?
|
Oars for a Wanderer
I think you probably want yours oars full length to row
comfortably.
We have a 2015 Hartley version of the Wanderer and decided
that we needed both oars and
paddles. So we got Hartley to supply and fit a set of oars.
The oars were 2.25 metres in length.
they fit on the starboard side mostly under the seat but protruding
into the space at the stern. We have not checked how the paddle tips engage
with the spinnaker when dropping it. The pictures showing this are attached.
Hope this helps Eleanor
Hi Everybody,
I normally use an electric outboard but it seems a little on the heavy side when sailing so was looking to use the Oars that we have but where do you store them when sailing, looks as if they need cutting down ?to fit under the seating area. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Regards Keith ?
|
If you are opening it up and replacing the ply, you might want to consider filling it with epoxy afterwards to fill any gaps and preserve the wood. Mine had no forward barrier, I did the repair by adding a round hatch in the forward bulkhead, replacing the ply, and tipping the hull stern down to get the epoxy under the mast base. Hard to get into it that way to do the repair, Martin's idea certainly sounds easier. The difference in rig tension following the repair is significant.
On Mon, 9 Aug 2021 at 12:23, Roff, James via groups.io <james.roff@...> wrote:
Wow thanks Martin. Most helpful. I¡¯ll have to schedule in some work I think!
?
?
Hi James,
I'd second checking the mast base. I did mine recently and found that the main bit of plywood - the vertical bit that runs from the centreboard into the buoyancy tank - was ok, but all the other bits had disintegrated. The screws at the bottom of the tabernacle
should go into a horizontal bit of plywood that sits on top of the vertical bit in a T shape - if the screws are failing then (a) you're going to get water in (b) the mast isn't actually held up by very much.
Pics here:
If you have a vibrating multitool (mine is Aldi) then I recommend cutting off the GRP at the level of the bottom of the floorboards - this should give enough access and you'll only see the join at the front and back of the section when you put it back together
and the floorboards are in.
If water is still getting in then check round the base of the internal GRP moulding - on the port side the adhesive line was only 1-2mm thick with cracks in places. Any water in the bilge would run into the buoyancy tank.
Cheers
Martin
?
On 06/08/2021 11:35, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io wrote:
First thing to do is check the integrity of the mast base. If the mast is moving too much it may be that the mast base is being compressed leading to loss of rig tension. There's a plywood support under the mast
base which will rot over time particularly if water is getting in. Look for signs of a dip or cracks around the mast base. I've done this repair on mine so let me know what you find.?
When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where
the feet of the tabernacle screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated.
James
?
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers
at our club so have none to compare ours to.
?
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see
) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at
.? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems
to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting
on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution
or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems.
Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action
in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications
on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Wow thanks Martin. Most helpful. I¡¯ll have to schedule in some work I think!
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Martin via groups.io
Sent: 07 August 2021 11:37
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [wanderer] Creaking mast
?
Hi James,
I'd second checking the mast base. I did mine recently and found that the main bit of plywood - the vertical bit that runs from the centreboard into the buoyancy tank - was ok, but all the other bits had disintegrated. The screws at the bottom of the tabernacle
should go into a horizontal bit of plywood that sits on top of the vertical bit in a T shape - if the screws are failing then (a) you're going to get water in (b) the mast isn't actually held up by very much.
Pics here:
If you have a vibrating multitool (mine is Aldi) then I recommend cutting off the GRP at the level of the bottom of the floorboards - this should give enough access and you'll only see the join at the front and back of the section when you put it back together
and the floorboards are in.
If water is still getting in then check round the base of the internal GRP moulding - on the port side the adhesive line was only 1-2mm thick with cracks in places. Any water in the bilge would run into the buoyancy tank.
Cheers
Martin
?
On 06/08/2021 11:35, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io wrote:
First thing to do is check the integrity of the mast base. If the mast is moving too much it may be that the mast base is being compressed leading to loss of rig tension. There's a plywood support under the mast
base which will rot over time particularly if water is getting in. Look for signs of a dip or cracks around the mast base. I've done this repair on mine so let me know what you find.?
When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where
the feet of the tabernacle screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated.
James
?
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers
at our club so have none to compare ours to.
?
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see
) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at
.? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems
to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting
on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution
or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems.
Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action
in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications
on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Hi Everybody,
I normally use an electric outboard but it seems a little on the heavy side when sailing so was looking to use the Oars that we have but where do you store them when sailing, looks as if they need cutting down ?to fit under the seating area. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Regards Keith ?
|
Hi James,
I'd second checking the mast base. I did mine recently and found
that the main bit of plywood - the vertical bit that runs from the
centreboard into the buoyancy tank - was ok, but all the other
bits had disintegrated. The screws at the bottom of the tabernacle
should go into a horizontal bit of plywood that sits on top of the
vertical bit in a T shape - if the screws are failing then (a)
you're going to get water in (b) the mast isn't actually held up
by very much.
Pics here:
If you have a vibrating multitool (mine is Aldi) then I recommend
cutting off the GRP at the level of the bottom of the floorboards
- this should give enough access and you'll only see the join at
the front and back of the section when you put it back together
and the floorboards are in.
If water is still getting in then check round the base of the
internal GRP moulding - on the port side the adhesive line was
only 1-2mm thick with cracks in places. Any water in the bilge
would run into the buoyancy tank.
Cheers
Martin
On 06/08/2021 11:35, Jonathan Daniel
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
First thing to do is check the integrity of the mast base. If
the mast is moving too much it may be that the mast base is
being compressed leading to loss of rig tension. There's a
plywood support under the mast base which will rot over time
particularly if water is getting in. Look for signs of a dip or
cracks around the mast base. I've done this repair on mine so
let me know what you find.?
When beating upwind my mast moves about in the
jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There
is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in
the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where
the feet of the tabernacle screw into the hull water leaks into
the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work
but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any
comments or suggestions most appreciated.
Wanderer mark 2 I think?
Thanks
James
?
Hello John
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was
fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was
catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it
was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we
don't have any other wanderers at our club so have
none to compare ours to.
Eleanor
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine
also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on
older boats too so am thinking it is probably
normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014
Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and
am trying to resolve an irritation in
that my boom is not level but dipping
towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the
rear of the mast foot at the end of
the mast step, up against a fitted nut
and bolt.? (Though I note there is
another hole which is available.)? The
tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced
the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen
A4372, see
) with
vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and
pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so
as to give a longer adjustment range.?
We have not measured the length of the
shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast
spreaders are 430mm long but the
spreader deflection is 195mm rather
than the 165mm specified by Selden for
a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested
in WCOA technical data at
.? (As
an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data
sheet does not seem to be available
anymore.)? We did not measure the mast
prebend.
?
Our mast was
rigged with the jib reefing line below
the main sail reefing line.? We found
that this did not give us enough room
to achieve a reasonable tension in the
shrouds so we reversed them.? The
Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having
tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs
via the jib (checked with a borrowed
Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet
and 6 inches (the closest we have
managed to get it).? But the boom is
nowhere near horizontal and the kicker
seems to make little impact on the
boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader
deflection make a difference?? Given
it is slightly larger than specified,
which in turn means the main sail hits
the end of the spreader sooner (at a
smaller angle), thus limiting the
broad reach set up without the
impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one
do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information
contained in this communication is intended for the named
recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error,
you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying,
distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is
strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and
associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses
whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once
it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer
systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective
operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
First thing to do is check the integrity of the mast base. If the mast is moving too much it may be that the mast base is being compressed leading to loss of rig tension. There's a plywood support under the mast base which will rot over time particularly if
water is getting in. Look for signs of a dip or cracks around the mast base. I've done this repair on mine so let me know what you find.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where the
feet of the tabernacle screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated.
Wanderer mark 2 I think?
Thanks
James
On 2 Aug 2021, at 19:19, eleanor mehew via groups.io <eleanormehew@...> wrote:
?
Hello John
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers at our club
so have none to compare ours to.
Eleanor
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see
) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at
.? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems
to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting
on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action
in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications
on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
James,?
The mast should have no sideways movement so to prevent this you can add packing either side of the deck moulding. You have the standard fitting but this is not enough. Note that the amount of necessary packing may not be the same for each side as the deck moulding may not be absolutely central. This is quite normal. Make sure that the standing rigging is set correctly first so that you can be reasonably confident that the mast is vertical under tension. A non-tapered block can be used to fill the gap in front of the mast but this will limit mast bend when the kicker is tensioned. This is sometimes desirable but depends on the wind conditions.
Regards
John R
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 6 Aug 2021, at 10:38, Roff, James via groups.io <james.roff@...> wrote:
?
When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where the feet of the tabernacle
screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated.
Wanderer mark 2 I think?
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg> <image3.jpeg>
Thanks
James
On 2 Aug 2021, at 19:19, eleanor mehew via groups.io <eleanormehew@...> wrote:
?
Hello John
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers at our club
so have none to compare ours to.
Eleanor
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see
) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at
.? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems
to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting
on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action
in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications
on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
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When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where the feet of the tabernacle
screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it¡¯s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated.
Wanderer mark 2 I think?
Thanks
James
On 2 Aug 2021, at 19:19, eleanor mehew via groups.io <eleanormehew@...> wrote:
?
Hello John
Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers at our club
so have none to compare ours to.
Eleanor
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see
) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at
.? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems
to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting
on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action
in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications
on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Hello John Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers at our club so have none to compare ours to. Eleanor
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at .? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
|
Thanks for the suggestion Mike. I will check the height of the top of the sail when we rig the boat on Wednesday. I have to confess that we have been raising the mainsail with the boom on the gooseneck, so maybe our technique has not helped. Eleanor
On Mon, Aug 2, 2021 at 2:56 PM Mike Bennett < mjb1416@...> wrote: Elenor
Are you getting the main up to the top of the mast?? Don¡¯t put the boom on the gooseneck until after raising the sail. On my boat the luff has shrunk so it¡¯s quite hard to pull down.?
Mike ? ?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at .? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
|
Hi Eleanor
I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I¡¯ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal.?
John (1646)
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at .? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
--
John 1646
|
Elenor
Are you getting the main up to the top of the mast? ?Don¡¯t put the boom on the gooseneck until after raising the sail. On my boat the luff has shrunk so it¡¯s quite hard to pull down.?
Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2 Aug 2021, at 12:11, eleanormehew@... wrote:
? ?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at .? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
|
?
?
?
I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat.?
?
We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt.? (Though I note there is another hole which is available.)? The tabernacle pin is removed.?
?
We have replaced the ¡®standard¡¯ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, see ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range.? We have not measured the length of the shrouds.?
?
The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer¡¯s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data at .? (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer¡¯s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.)? We did not measure the mast prebend.
?
Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line.? We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them.? The Cunningham is not fitted.
?
So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it).? But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom¡¯s levelness.
?
So two questions.?
?
Does the spreader deflection make a difference?? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail.
?
What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom????
thank you
Eleanor
?
|
Wrap a piece of sail cloth around the mast over the Highfield Lever area and seal with velcro
Hi folks!
It's fine when there is a crew to handle the situation, but I find that
when single handed, the jib sheets are apt to get jammed down between
the deck and the mast at times. This makes life more than a little
difficult, especially on a breezy day when there is plenty to do already.
Probably what is needed is a sort of gaiter that can be attached after
hoisting the mains'l or perhaps by pushing a piece of soft foam into the
gap each side of the mast. Had anyone any better ideas ?
Best wishes, Dafydd (W1491)
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
Hi folks!
It's fine when there is a crew to handle the situation, but I find that when single handed, the jib sheets are apt to get jammed down between the deck and the mast at times. This makes life more than a little difficult, especially on a breezy day when there is plenty to do already.
Probably what is needed is a sort of gaiter that can be attached after hoisting the mains'l or perhaps by pushing a piece of soft foam into the gap each side of the mast. Had anyone any better ideas ?
Best wishes, Dafydd (W1491)
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
John Sharples 1646