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Hello, New to all things Wanderer related! I've just bought myself a Hartley Wanderer W1639, 2010 vintage. First question, when rigging the mast can the tabernacle pin remain in position when the shrouds and forestay have been fitted and tensioned? Any suggestions for getting the plastic self bailers under the thwart to seal better? After our first sail on Loch Tay a few days ago, I seemed to have more water in the boat than I would have liked, not helped by the very slight conditions, not enough boat speed to get the water to sook itself out again! Many thanks, Euan

Hi folks, Some years ago when I sailed a Firefly, a 12ft very light boat. I found that she would sail very well in strong winds (F5 to F6) single handed under jib only, even to windward, though probably only about 50 degrees to the wind. She would tack easily as long as the water was reasonably flat. Has anyone tried sailing a Wanderer under genoa only in strong winds? It would be interesting to know people's experiences. Dafydd (W1491)

Hi all, I'm hoping that someone is able to help with a pressing issue on my Anglo Marine Wanderer 910. My brother and daughter sailed it yesterday and after a full day of sailing, capsized it on the way back in. It turned turtle quickly, which I've heard is common so I'll press ahead with plans to do the MD conversion and add masthead buoyancy. However, the main issue is the amount of water that flooded the side and front tanks, which I believe are connected. After being over for about 10 minutes, the tanks were nearly half full (6 inches high with water inside) when they got back in. I have a hatch in the front tank which was added to do a mast base repair, and when I opened it the water came pouring out. The hatch itself is definitely watertight (no water got out when the boat was the right way up!). Does anyone have any idea how the water gets in, in this quantity? I can't see any cracks or gaps. And as it's dry in normal use, there must be a gap higher up so that it's only an issue when capsized. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I'm now totally baffled on this one! Only think I can think of is whether there is a gap under where the thwart attaches? Jonathan Daniel

Hi all, has anyone fitted a Hartley Wanderer GRP centreboard to an Anglo Marine Wanderer and, if so, was it OK or were there any issues? Any feedback appreciated, thanks. Adrian W1513

Can anybody advise me to the size of rivets that hold the pulley towards the top of the mast that the jib sheet runs through. I have a replacement pulley to fit but don’t know what size they are to replace them. Also what type of rivets people have used, ie stainless or Monel etc. Many thanks, Richard.

Hi all, I am trying to rig the jib furler on my Hartley Wanderer so that I can operate it from the thwarts. I could just do with some guidance on the route of the control line and where to put pulleys to enable this. Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance Peter 1604

I've noticed that the black plastic jibsheet leads on my Wanderer 910 have been badly worn through use, which seems to explain the friction sheeting in the jib and its reluctance to run back out. I'm about to replace them, but I notice that the latest Wayfarers have blocks to lead the jibsheet. Does anyone have any experience of using blocks on a Wanderer? Get Outlook for Android

One of mine cracked today. Anyone have experience of repairing them? Mine have a bungee running between them to keep them closed, is that standard or a modification by a previous owner. Several other classes in the dinghy park just had flaps. They were rather flimsy plastic which had perished. Thanks for any advice. Peter

Fellow Wanderer Sailors While talking with a Gull owner yesterday (Gull is essentially a smaller Wanderer) we were comparing similarities of layout and fitments between his Gull and my Wanderer. The Gull sailor mentioned he was having difficulties understanding how his rudder controls worked.as he was getting his rudder frequently kicking up. On comparing our rudders we noted that they were of identical 'IYE' make / design on our Anglo Marine boats. Perhaps his downhaul comprised 100% Bungy, I am not entirely sure on this point. It became obvious that our understanding of how this design is supposed to work differed and hence this post. Below I define what I believe the function of the two control lines and welcome any comments/corrections etc from others as well as common reasons for his rudder kicking up etc:- 1. Both rudder control lines (Uphaul & Downhaul) enter the aluminium housing at its forward facing edge and initially pass over the top of a fixed 'pivot pin' located beneath the tiller slide rail. This is not to be confused with the rudder's main Pivot Bolt; 2. After leaving the 'Pivot Pin' the Uphaul line is routed around the underside of a spring-loaded Nylon roller which tracks along the top radiused edge of the blade the line is then terminated at the blade's trailing edge; 3. This Uphaul line comprises a single continuous line of ~5mm thickness which when pulled in raises the rudder blade to a near horizontal position and can be cleated off, in the raised position, using the tiller mounted cleat; 4. The second line, the 'Downhaul', is comprised of two conjoined sections - line and ~6mm bungy and when pulled lowers the rudder blade (assuming the uphaul is not currently cleated) and the Bungy is hooked around a cleat on the tiller shaft.. This Line is attached to the blade's leading edge and when fully lowered the blade is 'locked' in position by the combined tension of the spring-loaded Nylon roller engaging in the 'notch' in the top of the blade and the tensioned bungy; 5. Should the rudder strike an underwater obstruction when fully down and 'locked' then the Bungy element of the downhaul, working with the spring roller will allow the rudder blade to partially or fully raise the rudder to protect it. I have probably not used the correct terms in my descriptions above but hopefully the function of each rudder line, as I understand it, is relatively clear. Many thanks Terry Pullen W863 Anglo Marine MD Conversion

Is anyone able to advise the correct thickness for a replacement spinnaker halliard? I'm thinking that with modern ropes I can go quite thin (3mm?), but are there any other considerations? As always, any help and advice much appreciated. Jonathan Daniel

Hi all, Just interested in how single handed Wanderer sailors have managed with capsize recovery on their own in a Wanderer? Is it doable? Any specific tricks or advice? – I am going to do a test capsize on my own shortly because I will be sailing a bit on my own and want to be prepared. Mine is a Hartly boats 2009. (Not that I am suggesting that this happens much to you experienced sailors of course !!!) Many thanks, Peter W1604 Sent from Mail for Windows

One of the fittings at the rear of our Wanderer's locker has sheared off - it is a piece of L-shaped metal, attached to the locker with a U-shaped notch, which clips under an adjustable screw that is fixed to the deck just behind the transom. We have looked online and can't find anything that resembles it. Does anyone know where a replacement might be found? Shirley (W1301)

Following a windy weekend at West Oxfordshire my tiller is now at the bottom of the lake! Rather against the odds, plan A is to find and retrieve it, and I now know that people don't trust the rudder rope to keep the components together and add various clips and pins. So what of plan B: my boat is from Anglo Marine in 1987 and the tiller was a u-section metal one that slid on to the rudder. Who made it? I fear it's obsolete and Ian Porter's website suggests “expensive special order”. Is there any hope of replacing it at reasonable cost? The other choice will be to modify the assembly to suit: take the slider fitting off the top of the rudder and replace with capping socket to take a conventional tubular tiller. Has anybody done this? Advice gratefully received. Mike Bellew W676

Hello all Don’t forget to sign up for WandererWest. This friendly sailing event is based near Mylor in the Fal Estuary. Details are on the Class Association website. https://www.wanderer.org.uk/event/wandererwest-2022/?v=79cba1185463 Do come if you can. There are a few spaces left for campers and also for day visitors. A great place to sail with the comfort of sailing in a group. John (1646) -- John 1646

Hi all, I'm still having an issue with water getting in to the front bouyancy compartment. I've checked all the keelband screws and re-sealed them but it's still filling up. After some wild weather today it had loads in it. But with the hull dry afterwards nothing is coming back out. Anyone have any idea how the water is still getting in? I also found water in the side tanks. My old boat is a pre-MD conversion but I have inspection hatches at the rear of the side tanks. Does anyone know if these are connected to the front compartment hence water getting in there, or are these leaking themselves somewhere? As usual, any advice very gratefully appreciated. Jonathan Daniel

Hi all, another request for help! I notice that some of the later Anglo Marine Wanderers have a spinnaker chute in the foredeck. Is there a template available for this so it can be retrofitted? I know it will be a big job (winter project) but it should make spinnaker handling when sailing with the children a lot more friendly! I'm thinking I can take a pattern off the foredeck after covering it with release agent, and build some kind of curved surround that will then drop in place when the hole is cut in the foredeck. Also is there a sock behind it, or does the spinnaker just go into the void underneath? As always, any assistance vey much appreciated. Jonathan Daniel