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Re: Dell'Orto Adaptability
Thanks much for posting this link.? I'm sure it will be very helpful.
~Roger Hoffmann
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Re: Wanted - R90s Tank and Handlebar clamps
Try Robbie at
Peach Pit Painting 43 Boyce Road Canterbury NH (603) 731-8955
He did an excellent job on a Silver Smoke m R90/S I brought back to life.
Ted
On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 03:00:44 PM EST, roger kaplan via groups.io <rkacme@...> wrote:
Hello Josh I have two sets of bodywork that need a nice DO paint job and have not yet found anyone in this area (S. New Hampshire) to take on the work. Do you already have a painter lined up? If so, can I ask where he is located and possibly what he charges? TIA Roger Kaplan
On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 12:19:14 PM EST, Josh Withers <jjwithers@...> wrote:
I'm not in a rush but I'm starting my hunt for a R90s Tank (with flip up cap) and handlebar clamps. If anybody has parts to spare that I don't need to sell a kidney for, please reach out. I'd expect to repaint at some point so flaws are OK. Bike is a '74 to technically it should be smoke but I'm thinking of keeping it orange (current bodywork is daytona).
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I have been using stainless truss socket head bolts for years.? I put an o-ring or a small rubber washer under the head to cushion the windshield and a nylon lock nut on the inside of the fairing.
Good luck.
James Wiseman
ProServUS Investigation
PO Box 802
Burlington, IA 52601
319-750-4199
The truth will set you free.
NOTICE: This email and any attachments are covered by the Electronic Communication Privacy Act. The information may be confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that you have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you for your cooperation.
On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 2:52:23 PM CST, PFix via groups.io <pwfix@...> wrote:
Installing a new windshield and have a few questions.
1. I assume the round gasket material at the bottom of the windshield lays in the groove between the bottom edge of black dash and the fairing, is that correct?
2. Is there supposed to be a washer between the fastening rivet(under the head) and the windshield?
(as shown in max bmw fiche file)
3. How difficult is it to use the rivets without the “special tool”?
4. Opinions on pitching the plastic rivets and using the bolts and nuts instead, as promoted by max bmw’s fiche file?
Appreciate any guidance,
Patrick
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Installing a new windshield and have a few questions.
1. I assume the round gasket material at the bottom of the windshield lays in the groove between the bottom edge of black dash and the fairing, is that correct?
2. Is there supposed to be a washer between the fastening rivet(under the head) and the windshield?
(as shown in max bmw fiche file)
3. How difficult is it to use the rivets without the “special tool”?
4. Opinions on pitching the plastic rivets and using the bolts and nuts instead, as promoted by max bmw’s fiche file?
Appreciate any guidance,
Patrick
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Re: Wanted - R90s Tank and Handlebar clamps
Hello Josh I have two sets of bodywork that need a nice DO paint job and have not yet found anyone in this area (S. New Hampshire) to take on the work. Do you already have a painter lined up? If so, can I ask where he is located and possibly what he charges? TIA Roger Kaplan
On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 12:19:14 PM EST, Josh Withers <jjwithers@...> wrote:
I'm not in a rush but I'm starting my hunt for a R90s Tank (with flip up cap) and handlebar clamps. If anybody has parts to spare that I don't need to sell a kidney for, please reach out. I'd expect to repaint at some point so flaws are OK. Bike is a '74 to technically it should be smoke but I'm thinking of keeping it orange (current bodywork is daytona).
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Locked
Wanted - R90s Tank and Handlebar clamps
I'm not in a rush but I'm starting my hunt for a R90s Tank (with flip up cap) and handlebar clamps. If anybody has parts to spare that I don't need to sell a kidney for, please reach out. I'd expect to repaint at some point so flaws are OK. Bike is a '74 to technically it should be smoke but I'm thinking of keeping it orange (current bodywork is daytona).
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New to me '76. Initial oil change volume with filter change seems to be 2.75L. Spec says 2.25L. Wondering if a PO installed a higher volume oil sump. Is 0.5L an expected volume increase for a larger oil pan?
Noted an outer oil pan fin is damaged, could be consistent with a larger/lower oil pan.
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Re: Dell'Orto Adaptability
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 5:00 AM, roger kaplan via groups.io <rkacme@...> wrote:
? Thanks for your reply. I'm aware of the differences between the BS/BD model and the SD. The SD has the casting boss for the accelerator pump so I'm hoping the proper passageways are present inside. The fast start (cold start?) circuit has me baffled. Jets, needles, and other internal bits are interchangeable. I know I can make this work with enough information. It's out there. Thanks again. Roger
On Thursday, March 11, 2021, 09:49:52 PM EST, obie311 via groups.io <obie311@...> wrote:
| https://advrider.com/f/threads/rebuilding-a-dellorto-phm-sd-carburetor.635497/ |
Looks like it doesn't have an accelerator pump. Remember there's a right and left version of the PHM for twins. The throttle stop (idle) adjust screw and the air mixture screws have to be accessible for tuning.
Not sure how the "hot start" button works but there's been many a time I wish I had one on a piston airplane.
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Re: Dell'Orto Adaptability
Thanks for your reply. I'm aware of the differences between the BS/BD model and the SD. The SD has the casting boss for the accelerator pump so I'm hoping the proper passageways are present inside. The fast start (cold start?) circuit has me baffled. Jets, needles, and other internal bits are interchangeable. I know I can make this work with enough information. It's out there. Thanks again. Roger
On Thursday, March 11, 2021, 09:49:52 PM EST, obie311 via groups.io <obie311@...> wrote:
| https://advrider.com/f/threads/rebuilding-a-dellorto-phm-sd-carburetor.635497/ |
Looks like it doesn't have an accelerator pump. Remember there's a right and left version of the PHM for twins. The throttle stop (idle) adjust screw and the air mixture screws have to be accessible for tuning.
Not sure how the "hot start" button works but there's been many a time I wish I had one on a piston airplane.
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Re: Dell'Orto Adaptability
| https://advrider.com/f/threads/rebuilding-a-dellorto-phm-sd-carburetor.635497/ |
Looks like it doesn't have an accelerator pump. Remember there's a right and left version of the PHM for twins. The throttle stop (idle) adjust screw and the air mixture screws have to be accessible for tuning.
Not sure how the "hot start" button works but there's been many a time I wish I had one on a piston airplane.
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Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
I'm getting similar noises from my tach. It's been 30 years since it was last lubed.
Can anyone recommend any cleaning and lubricating products that might be available in New Zealand??
BTW I've heard that Terry does excellent work servicing and repairing these instruments but shipping mine from NZ isn't practical.?
Thanks?
Craig Freeman?
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I have a pair of Del? PHM38SD carbs that came from some KTM 400 singles. I would like to use them on my '76 R90S but I notice there are some differences between these 'SD' carbs and the OEM PHM38BD/BS units. Can anyone tell me what mods or adjustments are required to successfully use the 'SD' carbs on the '76 R90S? Are there any sources I might try?? TIA
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Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
? I will second Gayle’s review. Serviced my gauge cluster when the odometer stopped working. Reasonable cost and quick turnaround. Even painted my needles to correct faded paint. No extra charge.? Scott Grew up in Milwaukee, now in Florida where it’s mostly sunny New knowledge is the most valuable commodity on earth. The more truth we have to work with, the richer we become. Kurt Vonnegut JR.?
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Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
I have found that thin graphite oil like the type for locks works great. ?Thin enough to drip all the way down and leaves graphite behind for lube. Terry(below) also does this service work.
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On Mar 10, 2021, at 4:47 PM, Gayle Murphy < gmurphy@...> wrote:
FYI to group:
Speedo/tach clean/repair source: Speedometer Service Co. ?5801 W Villard Ave. Milwaukee,Wisconsin. 53218. ?Ph. 414-463-6660.
Old school, mom and pop business since 1932. Had them clean/lube tach and clean/lube and calibrate my speedo last summer. ?One day turnaround. Smooth as silk. Like New. ?Very reasonable. $280 inc.tax. I live six miles from the?
shop. May have something to do with the quick service.?
Gayle Murphy
In almost springtime Milwaukee,Wis. Home of the Greek Freak.
David - It might be the cable and you can try getting some thin oil to drip down into it. I don't know why BMW made the cable captive, but they did and it makes it difficult to lube. So do whatever you can to remedy.
We tend not to service our gauges until they're ready to blow up - mostly because it's difficult to say when exactly they need it. There's no published service interval that I know of. When I was a kid, the rule of thumb for watches was yearly and our gauges are similar to clocks - sort of. How long the lube lasts depends on use, disuse, temperature, humidity and other factors like damage from water and rust.?
My guess would be that if the gauges haven't been serviced in ten or twenty years, it's probably due. The warning signs that the gauge needs attention is whining or screechy noises, a jerky needle, or erratic behavior. The tach gets a little more of a workout, so it tends to be the first to go.?
For sure, do what you can to lube the cable and see if that fixes, but keep in mind if it doesn't, it's probably the tach meltdown isn't too far distant. I bought a true 14K mile /5 about 17 years ago and rode it home. Within about 500 miles both gauges started screeching, jerking wildly, then melted down. If I had disconnected the cables when they first started complaining, I would have had some like-new gauges once they were serviced. A cleaning and lube would have been enough to get them going again. But since I didn't, wanting the odometer for gas stops, and not bothering to disconnect the tach either, both died horribly deaths and needed rebuilding (rather than just a service) with a lot of new parts.?
Terry? (Wirespokes)?
Mine used to do the same thing and I fixed it by dripping fishing reel oil into the top of the cable after disconnecting from the speedo. The "correct police" will tell you not to lubricate the cable, but it has worked for me for over 45 yrs of airhead riding.? On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 3:28 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via ??<dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times.? I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head.? If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating.? That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
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Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
FYI to group:
Speedo/tach clean/repair source: Speedometer Service Co. ?5801 W Villard Ave. Milwaukee,Wisconsin. 53218. ?Ph. 414-463-6660.
Old school, mom and pop business since 1932. Had them clean/lube tach and clean/lube and calibrate my speedo last summer. ?One day turnaround. Smooth as silk. Like New. ?Very reasonable. $280 inc.tax. I live six miles from the?
shop. May have something to do with the quick service.?
Gayle Murphy
In almost springtime Milwaukee,Wis. Home of the Greek Freak.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
David - It might be the cable and you can try getting some thin oil to drip down into it. I don't know why BMW made the cable captive, but they did and it makes it difficult to lube. So do whatever you can to remedy.
We tend not to service our gauges until they're ready to blow up - mostly because it's difficult to say when exactly they need it. There's no published service interval that I know of. When I was a kid, the rule of thumb for watches was yearly and our gauges are similar to clocks - sort of. How long the lube lasts depends on use, disuse, temperature, humidity and other factors like damage from water and rust.?
My guess would be that if the gauges haven't been serviced in ten or twenty years, it's probably due. The warning signs that the gauge needs attention is whining or screechy noises, a jerky needle, or erratic behavior. The tach gets a little more of a workout, so it tends to be the first to go.?
For sure, do what you can to lube the cable and see if that fixes, but keep in mind if it doesn't, it's probably the tach meltdown isn't too far distant. I bought a true 14K mile /5 about 17 years ago and rode it home. Within about 500 miles both gauges started screeching, jerking wildly, then melted down. If I had disconnected the cables when they first started complaining, I would have had some like-new gauges once they were serviced. A cleaning and lube would have been enough to get them going again. But since I didn't, wanting the odometer for gas stops, and not bothering to disconnect the tach either, both died horribly deaths and needed rebuilding (rather than just a service) with a lot of new parts.?
Terry? (Wirespokes)?
Mine used to do the same thing and I fixed it by dripping fishing reel oil into the top of the cable after disconnecting from the speedo. The "correct police" will tell you not to lubricate the cable, but it has worked for me for over 45 yrs of airhead riding.? On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 3:28 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via ??<dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times.? I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head.? If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating.? That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
|
Locked
Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
David - It might be the cable and you can try getting some thin oil to drip down into it. I don't know why BMW made the cable captive, but they did and it makes it difficult to lube. So do whatever you can to remedy.
We tend not to service our gauges until they're ready to blow up - mostly because it's difficult to say when exactly they need it. There's no published service interval that I know of. When I was a kid, the rule of thumb for watches was yearly and our gauges
are similar to clocks - sort of. How long the lube lasts depends on use, disuse, temperature, humidity and other factors like damage from water and rust.?
My guess would be that if the gauges haven't been serviced in ten or twenty years, it's probably due. The warning signs that the gauge needs attention is whining or screechy noises, a jerky needle, or erratic behavior. The tach gets a little more of a workout,
so it tends to be the first to go.?
For sure, do what you can to lube the cable and see if that fixes, but keep in mind if it doesn't, it's probably the tach meltdown isn't too far distant. I bought a true 14K mile /5 about 17 years ago and rode it home. Within about 500 miles both gauges started
screeching, jerking wildly, then melted down. If I had disconnected the cables when they first started complaining, I would have had some like-new gauges once they were serviced. A cleaning and lube would have been enough to get them going again. But since
I didn't, wanting the odometer for gas stops, and not bothering to disconnect the tach either, both died horribly deaths and needed rebuilding (rather than just a service) with a lot of new parts.?
Terry? (Wirespokes)?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mine used to do the same thing and I fixed it by dripping fishing reel oil into the top of the cable after disconnecting from the speedo. The "correct police" will tell you not to lubricate the cable, but it has worked for me for over 45 yrs
of airhead riding.?
I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times.? I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head.? If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating.? That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
|
Locked
Re: Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
Mine used to do the same thing and I fixed it by dripping fishing reel oil into the top of the cable after disconnecting from the speedo. The "correct police" will tell you not to lubricate the cable, but it has worked for me for over 45 yrs of airhead riding.?
I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times.? I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head.? If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating.? That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
|
Locked
Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6
I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times. ?I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head. ?If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating. ?That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
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Hi All ? I can’t take the “S” for a test ride as we’ve still got snow. ? I finished installing an EZ Clutch on my R90S last week.? I believe I did everything right per the instructions. ? While in the basement with rear wheel off the floor, I tested the clutch. ? Yes it is much easier!, but it appears that the “friction point” is now closer to the handgrip.? Is that normal and expected due to the new chain mechanism?....or should I be able to adjust the friction point further away from the handlebar? ? Thanks Bob Alexander ? Also it appears in the photo below from Vech’s website the orientation of bracket is different from the instruction sheet which shows the bracket in a horizontal position versus vertical below?...or is this photo from a pre”/6” model? ? 
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By gosh… you are right!
Mit freundlichen Grü?en /?Best Regards, Dennis C. O'Dell Hochstrasse 19 90429 Nürnberg Germany denniscodell@...Mobile: +49 175 855 6663 Home: +49 911 277 45370 Skype: diggertfu Blog:?http://www.diggersmotorradadventures.com/ "Smart people learn from?everything and everyone,?average people from their?experiences, stupid people?already have all the?answers."— Probably not?Socrates
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Dennis, I'd suggest it is not they who are out of their minds, but rather their customers, if any.
The owners of the company are simply employing the age-old axiom, a fool and his money are soon parted".
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Josh Withers
obie311
Kris And Scott
Steve
Dennis O'Dell