I have found that thin graphite oil like the type for locks works great. ?Thin enough to drip all the way down and leaves graphite behind for lube. Terry(below) also does this service work.
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On Mar 10, 2021, at 4:47 PM, Gayle Murphy <
gmurphy@...> wrote:
FYI to group:
Speedo/tach clean/repair source: Speedometer Service Co. ?5801 W Villard Ave. Milwaukee,Wisconsin. 53218. ?Ph. 414-463-6660.
Old school, mom and pop business since 1932. Had them clean/lube tach and clean/lube and calibrate my speedo last summer. ?One day turnaround. Smooth as silk. Like New. ?Very reasonable. $280 inc.tax. I live six miles from the?
shop. May have something to do with the quick service.?
Gayle Murphy
In almost springtime Milwaukee,Wis. Home of the Greek Freak.
David - It might be the cable and you can try getting some thin oil to drip down into it. I don't know why BMW made the cable captive, but they did and it makes it difficult to lube. So do whatever you can to remedy.
We tend not to service our gauges until they're ready to blow up - mostly because it's difficult to say when exactly they need it. There's no published service interval that I know of. When I was a kid, the rule of thumb for watches was yearly and our gauges are similar to clocks - sort of. How long the lube lasts depends on use, disuse, temperature, humidity and other factors like damage from water and rust.?
My guess would be that if the gauges haven't been serviced in ten or twenty years, it's probably due. The warning signs that the gauge needs attention is whining or screechy noises, a jerky needle, or erratic behavior. The tach gets a little more of a workout, so it tends to be the first to go.?
For sure, do what you can to lube the cable and see if that fixes, but keep in mind if it doesn't, it's probably the tach meltdown isn't too far distant. I bought a true 14K mile /5 about 17 years ago and rode it home. Within about 500 miles both gauges started screeching, jerking wildly, then melted down. If I had disconnected the cables when they first started complaining, I would have had some like-new gauges once they were serviced. A cleaning and lube would have been enough to get them going again. But since I didn't, wanting the odometer for gas stops, and not bothering to disconnect the tach either, both died horribly deaths and needed rebuilding (rather than just a service) with a lot of new parts.?
Terry? (Wirespokes)?
Mine used to do the same thing and I fixed it by dripping fishing reel oil into the top of the cable after disconnecting from the speedo. The "correct police" will tell you not to lubricate the cable, but it has worked for me for over 45 yrs of airhead riding.?
On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 3:28 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via
??<dslemaire=
[email protected]> wrote:
I have a 1976 R90/6 with 40,000 miles. ?
Recently I've noticed the tach starting to whine/chatter at times.? I loosened the cable and lubed it, but I think it's in the head.? If I loosen the nut on the top of the cable where it enters the tach housing the noise goes away. ?
A couple years ago I pulled the assembly to do a minor repair on the speedo which required a little epoxy where some of my mileage numbers stopped rotating.? That was fairly simple.
Before I pull apart the tach I was wondering if anyone had any advise. ?
I'm guessing the lube is dried up and maybe just needs some attention.
