Re: Rigging question... and the joys of leaky bailers.
Thanks for the heads up on the tabernacle pin to be removed prior to sailing, I was hoping the wanderers mast could be rotated on the pin for "shooting bridges" as I have a few to negotiate in my local sailing area!
?
I'll have a look at the bailers when it warms up (snowing in Shetland today...) and make sure there no sand or gravel which may be fouling the seals, and grease them up with silicon grease, test again, maybe that will be enough to sort them out.
?
I have a plan with the flaps on the transom, I took them both off yesterday, and plan to find a fishbox to cut up to make a piece that will cover the hole. With this piece of plastic I will fit a plastic through hull fitting with a 50mm diameter, and a short length of fire hose (the stuff that lies flat when rolled up. The idea is to form a sort of elephants trunk arrangement at the transom, as used on small inflatable dinghys and RIB's for removing water from the boat when underway.? The hose can be tied up when the boat is relatively dry.?
I'll add some pictures as the project gathers momentum this week!
Thanks for the hints!
Cheers,?
Euan
W1639?
Nanook
|
Re: Rigging question... and the joys of leaky bailers.
Did you have an outboard on the back? Or a lot of weight toward the back of the boat? Water can come in through the drain flaps at the back and flood the boat in those cases. I’ve taped mine closed.
--
John 1646
|
Re: Rigging question... and the joys of leaky bailers.
Hi
The tabernacle pin must be removed after raising the mast. This is to allow the correct bend in the mast when the kicker is tightened.?
My self bailers are also leaking. You can get replacement seals for them, that’s what I plan to try.?
Regards
Mike
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On 16 Nov 2024, at 18:00, MM0VIK via groups.io <kayakmaneuan@...> wrote:
? Hello,?
New to all things Wanderer related!
I've just bought myself a Hartley Wanderer W1639, 2010 vintage.
First question, when rigging the mast can the tabernacle pin remain in position when the shrouds and forestay have been fitted and tensioned?
?
Any suggestions for getting the plastic self bailers under the thwart to seal better??
After our first sail on Loch Tay a few days ago, I seemed to have more water in the boat than I would have liked, not helped by the very slight conditions, not enough boat speed to get the water to sook itself out again!
Many thanks,?
Euan
|
Rigging question... and the joys of leaky bailers.
Hello,?
New to all things Wanderer related!
I've just bought myself a Hartley Wanderer W1639, 2010 vintage.
First question, when rigging the mast can the tabernacle pin remain in position when the shrouds and forestay have been fitted and tensioned?
?
Any suggestions for getting the plastic self bailers under the thwart to seal better??
After our first sail on Loch Tay a few days ago, I seemed to have more water in the boat than I would have liked, not helped by the very slight conditions, not enough boat speed to get the water to sook itself out again!
Many thanks,?
Euan
|
Re: Sheave size and mast base
Johnathan
I replaced my masthead sheave a while ago.? See my correspondence with Pinbax and photos.? The part they supplied was a perfect fit.
No photos or measurements of the mast foot though - no help there.
Neil
----- ?Hello
? Do you know the part number for the jib halyard?sheave?box for a 1989 Wanderer dinghy? The boat was manufactured by Anglo Marine and at the time was supplied with Proctor rigging.?
Selden told me that the part is?505-071-01, but pictures in your on line catalogue look different from mine - see attached photos.? Have I got the right part? Is the Selden part interchangeable with mine?
?? Neil Chapman ...
Hi Mr Chapman, ? It looks like the 505-071-01 should fit your mast yes. Hole centres are approx. 72-73mm. ? Hope this helps! ? Best regards, ? Richard Abendstern
| Northampton
Kings Heath,
Northampton,
NN5 7QP
Tel: 01604 592808
Email:?info@... |
|
?
On Thu, 28 Dec 2023 at 23:01, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi all, does anyone know the sheave size for an Anglo Marine Wanderer proctor mast? I want to replace the masthead one and 3 at the base but hoping to go to the boat with parts ready rather than make 2 trips.
Also does anyone know the width of the fibreglass at the mast base (or have their boat to check)? This would be the inside width between the support posts either side of the mast. I need to tidy up a previous mast base repair and again want
to make a GRP panel before going to the boat. Purple line in the photo if that makes sense.
Many thanks in advance for and help you can provide.?
|
Sheave size and mast base
Hi all, does anyone know the sheave size for an Anglo Marine Wanderer proctor mast? I want to replace the masthead one and 3 at the base but hoping to go to the boat with parts ready rather than make 2 trips.
Also does anyone know the width of the fibreglass at the mast base (or have their boat to check)? This would be the inside width between the support posts either side of the mast. I need to tidy up a previous mast base repair and again want
to make a GRP panel before going to the boat. Purple line in the photo if that makes sense.
Many thanks in advance for and help you can provide.?
|
Re: Sailing with genoa only
Dafydd The normal procedure with the Wanderer is to reef the main and furl the genoa. As this brings the centre of pressure in the sails back, lift the centreboard half way when going to windward to get a neutral helm. I’ve done this in a F6 and found the boat very manageable. Mike On 24 Mar 2023, at 18:13, Dafydd Bebb <dafydd.magi@...> wrote:
?Hi folks,
Some years ago when I sailed a Firefly, a 12ft very light boat. I found that she would sail very well in strong winds (F5 to F6) single handed under jib only, even to windward, though probably only about 50 degrees to the wind. She would tack easily as long as the water was reasonably flat. Has anyone tried sailing a Wanderer under genoa only in strong winds?
It would be interesting to know people's experiences.
Dafydd (W1491)
|
Re: Serious flooding in front and side tanks - Anglo Marine Wanderer
Jonathan
When you have done the repair around the mast step and bottom of the front tank I would suggest trying a pressure test to check tanks are then air tight. ?Some soapy water around the tank edges will also help find other leaks.
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On 21 Mar 2023, at 08:28, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
Hi all,
I'm hoping that someone is able to help with a pressing issue on my Anglo Marine Wanderer 910. My brother and daughter sailed it yesterday and after a full day of sailing, capsized it on the way back in. It turned turtle quickly, which I've heard is common so I'll press ahead with plans to do the MD conversion and add masthead buoyancy. However, the main issue is the amount of water that flooded the side and front tanks, which I believe are connected. After being over for about 10 minutes, the tanks were nearly half full (6 inches high with water inside) when they got back in. I have a hatch in the front tank which was added to do a mast base repair, and when I opened it the water came pouring out. The hatch itself is definitely watertight (no water got out when the boat was the right way up!). Does anyone have any idea how the water gets in, in this quantity? I can't see any cracks or gaps. And as it's dry in normal use, there must be a gap higher up so that it's only an issue when capsized. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I'm now totally baffled on this one! Only think I can think of is whether there is a gap under where the thwart attaches?
Jonathan Daniel
|
Hi folks,
Some years ago when I sailed a Firefly, a 12ft very light boat. I found that she would sail very well in strong winds (F5 to F6) single handed under jib only, even to windward, though probably only about 50 degrees to the wind. She would tack easily as long as the water was reasonably flat. Has anyone tried sailing a Wanderer under genoa only in strong winds?
It would be interesting to know people's experiences.
Dafydd (W1491)
|
Re: Serious flooding in front and side tanks - Anglo Marine Wanderer
Perfect, thank you. I've got some 50mm glass tape and epoxy so I'll try that.
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Hi Jonathan,
When I did the hog/mast step repair on mine it was apparent that there wasn't much glue holding the inner lining to the hull on the port side, hence water in the bottom of the boat got into the tanks. I've added epoxy and tape which seems to have fixed that
problem. Water also gets in through the cleats that hold the floorboards down - this is harder to fix.
The tanks were full of polystyrene but this makes it impossible to bail out as the water is full of plastic beads so I've replaced that with plastic bottles - at least the water won't sink the boat.
Cheers
Martin
On 21/03/2023 08:28, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io wrote:
Hi all,
I'm hoping that someone is able to help with a pressing issue on my Anglo Marine Wanderer 910. My brother and daughter sailed it yesterday and after a full day of sailing, capsized it on the way back in. It turned turtle quickly,
which I've heard is common so I'll press ahead with plans to do the MD conversion and add masthead buoyancy. However, the main issue is the amount of water that flooded the side and front tanks, which I believe are connected. After being over for about 10
minutes, the tanks were nearly half full (6 inches high with water inside) when they got back in. I have a hatch in the front tank which was added to do a mast base repair, and when I opened it the water came pouring out. The hatch itself is definitely watertight
(no water got out when the boat was the right way up!). Does anyone have any idea how the water gets in, in this quantity? I can't see any cracks or gaps. And as it's dry in normal use, there must be a gap higher up so that it's only an issue when capsized.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? I'm now totally baffled on this one! Only think I can think of is whether there is a gap under where the thwart attaches?
Jonathan Daniel
|
Re: Serious flooding in front and side tanks - Anglo Marine Wanderer
Hi Jonathan,
When I did the hog/mast step repair on mine it was apparent that
there wasn't much glue holding the inner lining to the hull on the
port side, hence water in the bottom of the boat got into the
tanks. I've added epoxy and tape which seems to have fixed that
problem. Water also gets in through the cleats that hold the
floorboards down - this is harder to fix.
The tanks were full of polystyrene but this makes it impossible
to bail out as the water is full of plastic beads so I've replaced
that with plastic bottles - at least the water won't sink the
boat.
Cheers
Martin
On 21/03/2023 08:28, Jonathan Daniel
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
I'm hoping that someone is
able to help with a pressing issue on my Anglo Marine
Wanderer 910. My brother and daughter sailed it yesterday
and after a full day of sailing, capsized it on the way back
in. It turned turtle quickly, which I've heard is common so
I'll press ahead with plans to do the MD conversion and add
masthead buoyancy. However, the main issue is the amount of
water that flooded the side and front tanks, which I believe
are connected. After being over for about 10 minutes, the
tanks were nearly half full (6 inches high with water
inside) when they got back in. I have a hatch in the front
tank which was added to do a mast base repair, and when I
opened it the water came pouring out. The hatch itself is
definitely watertight (no water got out when the boat was
the right way up!). Does anyone have any idea how the water
gets in, in this quantity? I can't see any cracks or gaps.
And as it's dry in normal use, there must be a gap higher up
so that it's only an issue when capsized. Does anyone have
any ideas at all? I'm now totally baffled on this one! Only
think I can think of is whether there is a gap under where
the thwart attaches?
Jonathan Daniel
|
Serious flooding in front and side tanks - Anglo Marine Wanderer
Hi all,
I'm hoping that someone is able to help with a pressing issue on my Anglo Marine Wanderer 910. My brother and daughter sailed it yesterday and after a full day of sailing, capsized it on the way back in. It turned turtle quickly, which I've heard is common so I'll press ahead with plans to do the MD conversion and add masthead buoyancy. However, the main issue is the amount of water that flooded the side and front tanks, which I believe are connected. After being over for about 10 minutes, the tanks were nearly half full (6 inches high with water inside) when they got back in. I have a hatch in the front tank which was added to do a mast base repair, and when I opened it the water came pouring out. The hatch itself is definitely watertight (no water got out when the boat was the right way up!). Does anyone have any idea how the water gets in, in this quantity? I can't see any cracks or gaps. And as it's dry in normal use, there must be a gap higher up so that it's only an issue when capsized. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I'm now totally baffled on this one! Only think I can think of is whether there is a gap under where the thwart attaches?
Jonathan Daniel
|
Glad it helps. Just remember to be accurate with the length as there's a lot less adjustment in a cascade kicker....
Get
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Johnathan,
Thanks very much for your response. The photo really helps: good tip about making a pattern. ? I think I can even make out the lengths from the rule in the photo.?
Regards, Neil
On Sat, 24 Sep 2022 at 17:41, Mike Bennett < mjb1416@...> wrote:
Jonathon
Class rules allow for a 16:1 kicker and don’t specify the material so you wire kicker is in class, as long as it is cleated at the mast or lead back to the thwart.?
Regards
Mike
? Should have added, set it up with the screws facing the same way as the mast and boom fixings so it isn't twisted when you put it on the boat.
Get
Hi Neil, we cruise only so we've not tried to stay in class, so have built a 16 to 1 in wire with the last part in rope for handling. But you could use the 3 to 1, then double it twice with a cascade. We used wire just because I have a splicer. Dyneema
would work perfectly. And it does make some performance difference,? even with old sails. Sorry I don't have the measurements as I'm not near the boat. One other thing, once you have the measurement, build your kicker on a strong plank of wood with 2 strong
screws at the neds at the right length. It makes it easier to work it all out. And if you end up slightly out you can move the fitting along the boom either way to compensate.
Get
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with
the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat. I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages
?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman
579
|
Johnathan,
Thanks very much for your response. The photo really helps: good tip about making a pattern. ? I think I can even make out the lengths from the rule in the photo.?
Regards, Neil
On Sat, 24 Sep 2022 at 17:41, Mike Bennett < mjb1416@...> wrote: Jonathon
Class rules allow for a 16:1 kicker and don’t specify the material so you wire kicker is in class, as long as it is cleated at the mast or lead back to the thwart.?
Regards
Mike ?
Should have added, set it up with the screws facing the same way as the mast and boom fixings so it isn't twisted when you put it on the boat.
Get
Hi Neil, we cruise only so we've not tried to stay in class, so have built a 16 to 1 in wire with the last part in rope for handling. But you could use the 3 to 1, then double it twice with a cascade. We used wire just because I have a splicer. Dyneema
would work perfectly. And it does make some performance difference,? even with old sails. Sorry I don't have the measurements as I'm not near the boat. One other thing, once you have the measurement, build your kicker on a strong plank of wood with 2 strong
screws at the neds at the right length. It makes it easier to work it all out. And if you end up slightly out you can move the fitting along the boom either way to compensate.
Get
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat.
I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages ?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman
579
|
Hi Neil, we cruise only so we've not tried to stay in class, so have built a 16 to 1 in wire with the last part in rope for handling. But you could use the 3 to 1, then double it twice with a cascade. We used wire just because I have a splicer. Dyneema
would work perfectly. And it does make some performance difference,? even with old sails. Sorry I don't have the measurements as I'm not near the boat. One other thing, once you have the measurement, build your kicker on a strong plank of wood with 2 strong
screws at the neds at the right length. It makes it easier to work it all out. And if you end up slightly out you can move the fitting along the boom either way to compensate.
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat.
I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages ?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman
579
|
Hi Jonathan, thanks for the information which will be useful if we decide to go this way.?
?
Regards
Adrian
|
Jonathon
Class rules allow for a 16:1 kicker and don’t specify the material so you wire kicker is in class, as long as it is cleated at the mast or lead back to the thwart.?
Regards
Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 24 Sep 2022, at 16:28, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
?
Should have added, set it up with the screws facing the same way as the mast and boom fixings so it isn't twisted when you put it on the boat.
Get
Hi Neil, we cruise only so we've not tried to stay in class, so have built a 16 to 1 in wire with the last part in rope for handling. But you could use the 3 to 1, then double it twice with a cascade. We used wire just because I have a splicer. Dyneema
would work perfectly. And it does make some performance difference,? even with old sails. Sorry I don't have the measurements as I'm not near the boat. One other thing, once you have the measurement, build your kicker on a strong plank of wood with 2 strong
screws at the neds at the right length. It makes it easier to work it all out. And if you end up slightly out you can move the fitting along the boom either way to compensate.
Get
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat.
I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages ?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman
579
|
Should have added, set it up with the screws facing the same way as the mast and boom fixings so it isn't twisted when you put it on the boat.
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Neil, we cruise only so we've not tried to stay in class, so have built a 16 to 1 in wire with the last part in rope for handling. But you could use the 3 to 1, then double it twice with a cascade. We used wire just because I have a splicer. Dyneema
would work perfectly. And it does make some performance difference,? even with old sails. Sorry I don't have the measurements as I'm not near the boat. One other thing, once you have the measurement, build your kicker on a strong plank of wood with 2 strong
screws at the neds at the right length. It makes it easier to work it all out. And if you end up slightly out you can move the fitting along the boom either way to compensate.
Get
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat.
I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages ?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman
579
|
Hello All,
Has anyone experience of making a 12:1 kicker?? I plan to make one, not because I think I necessarily need one, but because it seems like a fun thing to do. I have an Anglo?Marine? boat with the original 3:1 system that includes?the stainless block and v cleat. I think I also?have the original sails too, so I'm not expecting a tremendous performance improvement.?
I have seen the WCOA technical pages ?with a brief?description of what's required.? The article mentions some illustrations in Issue 60 of the magazine, but I can't seem to find the images on the website.
I propose to make a cascade with low friction rings?and dyneema and use the old kicker system for tensioning it.? Any thoughts??
And a more specific question...? Can someone tell me the distance between the mast attachment and the boom attachment, please.? My boat is in Menorca and I'm in Bristol so measuring is tricky.
Regards
Neil Chapman 579
|
Hi Adrian, I can't answer about the GRP centreboard, but I have restored a wooden board if that helps. Remove the leading edge and replace with brass rod. Embed that with glass tape and epoxy. Then epoxy the rest of the board. Just a suggestion, you may have other reasons for changing the board :-) If you do epoxy a wooden board, sand off the outside layer of ply first to keep the thickness the same.
Jonathan Daniel
On Wednesday, 21 September 2022 at 17:03:01 BST, Adrian Godson <adrianw1513@...> wrote:
Hi all, has anyone fitted a Hartley Wanderer GRP centreboard to an Anglo Marine Wanderer and, if so, was it OK or were there any issues?
Any feedback appreciated, thanks.?
Adrian
W1513
|
John Sharples 1646
