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Re: Sony replacement parts

lists
 

In article
<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAAtygyw8fVFU6qnS4J8m/QKMKAAAAQAAAAsZ9ccwnJbEGJO1GJlv9VnQEAAAAA@...>,
Nuno T. <nuno-t@...> wrote:
Hi,
I've been working with Sony the same way as your friend, for the past
five years. For some older parts IT IS NORMAL (unfortunatly) for Sony to
take so long. The only answer I ever got directly from the main house in
Japan is that the part(s) are discontinued and will be manufactured only
when demand for them so justifys.
And they can be F@$%**g stupidly expensive!

--
Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011


Re: Sony replacement parts

Mark Tolleson
 

Just curious, did you unload all your discs before taking it in? Did you save all your disc packaging?

Mark

Sent from my iPhone.

On Jan 27, 2011, at 1:42 AM, "Randy" <solargasfarts@...> wrote:

I have a Sony 400 disc DVD changer model DVP-CX995V. My repair man says it needs the laser assembly and it has now been at his shop for over eight months. He is not a ripoff guy, he used to live in my apartment building and was friends with everyone and his shop is in good standing with the Better Business Bureau. His parts supplier did verify receiving his parts request, so, I am wondering if anyone can shed some light as to why it is taking so long to get the Sony part that he needs.

Thanks.
Randy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Working wiht plexiglasss - little off the subject

 

--- In Electronics_101@..., "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:

Don't know about Invisible Glue but You can use Fine Wet Sand Paper to polish your edges.
A good start is to draw a knife blade along the cut edge, hold the blade vertical to the edge, two or three passes will give a good result but you have to be careful not to slip off and leave a scratch on the face.

Tony


Re: Sony replacement parts

Nuno T.
 

Hi,

I've been working with Sony the same way as your friend, for the past five
years. For some older parts IT IS NORMAL (unfortunatly) for Sony to take so
long.
The only answer I ever got directly from the main house in Japan is that the
part(s) are discontinued and will be manufactured only when demand for them
so justifys.

And that's the end of it! So much for Sony reputation...

Good luck

Nuno T.

-----Original Message-----
From: Electronics_101@...
[mailto:Electronics_101@...] On Behalf Of Randy
Sent: quinta-feira, 27 de Janeiro de 2011 6:42
To: Electronics_101@...
Subject: [Electronics_101] Sony replacement parts

I have a Sony 400 disc DVD changer model DVP-CX995V. My
repair man says it needs the laser assembly and it has now
been at his shop for over eight months. He is not a ripoff
guy, he used to live in my apartment building and was friends
with everyone and his shop is in good standing with the
Better Business Bureau. His parts supplier did verify
receiving his parts request, so, I am wondering if anyone can
shed some light as to why it is taking so long to get the
Sony part that he needs.

Thanks.
Randy


Re: LCD monitor power supply

Stefan Trethan
 

Capacitor shelf life is still specified at just a few months (after which it
may need reforming before it meets specification).
But in most cases this reforming takes place within the equipment and you
don't notice because all that happens is just a slightly higher leakage
current. For example if you connect a power supply for the first time it
will take some time before the standby losses fall to their usual value.
They don't degrade to the point where leakage is so high it causes a
problem, at least not in the usual timespan of a few years sitting around.


I don't think it will become much of a problem with the curerrent
technology, because many caps used now are so cheap and crappy they will dry
out even at storage temperature before you need to worry about reforming
them ;-)


ST

On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 1:22 AM, Ray Drouillard <
ray.drouillard.lists@...> wrote:



I wonder if it's still an issue. After all, we no longer have to take
extreme precautions when dealing with CMOS circuitry.



Sony replacement parts

 

I have a Sony 400 disc DVD changer model DVP-CX995V. My repair man says it needs the laser assembly and it has now been at his shop for over eight months. He is not a ripoff guy, he used to live in my apartment building and was friends with everyone and his shop is in good standing with the Better Business Bureau. His parts supplier did verify receiving his parts request, so, I am wondering if anyone can shed some light as to why it is taking so long to get the Sony part that he needs.

Thanks.
Randy


Re: unknown electrical connector

Maj Wright
 

Bill,

To connect to this connector you need a mating connector made for attaching wires. I strongly recommend you do not solder to the connector pins. Just makes a mess.

This looks similar to a MOLEX 2.50mm SPOX type connector. However, the connector pins are probably on .156 or .39mm centers.

If you go to either www.mouser.com or www.digikey.com you can browse their connectors trying to find a mate. If there is a manufactures label on the connector it would be a good start.

73, ron, n9ee/r

--- In Electronics_101@..., "worktoil" <worktoil@...> wrote:

I'm trying to determine the best way to hook up to the connector shown in the Photos section under Miscellaneous/unknown.connector.jpg.

It is a stepper motor driver board. I have searched the internet by the board's id and found nothing. I can not find any product ids on the connector itself.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Bill


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

On 27/01/2011 12:55 PM, Mark Tolleson wrote:
My family bought a Sony portable TV in 1976 and it was still working perfectly (except for dirty tuner and controls) in 2000 or so when I lost track of it .

Mark T.
Don't tell me ... it went out to buy milk and never came back ...:-D


Re: LCD monitor power supply

Mark Tolleson
 

I have a 1992 (or 93) Sony XBR and except for a cold solder joint in the power supply in 2000, it's been flawless.? I calibrated it with the DVD from the ISF and it still has the best standard def picture I've ever seen.

My family bought a Sony portable TV in 1976 and it was still working perfectly (except for dirty tuner and controls) in 2000 or so when I lost track of it .

Mark T.

--- On Wed, 1/26/11, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:

From: Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...>
Subject: Re: [Electronics_101] Re: LCD monitor power supply
To: Electronics_101@...
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2011, 8:43 PM

Ben:
You are wise beyond your years!

Roland F. Harriston P.D
***

Ben L wrote:


I wonder why TV manufacturers never thought of adding a fan.
Because they want it to break sometime after the warranty is over so
they can sell you a new one.

Ben




------------------------------------

Please trim excess when replyingYahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

Ben:
You are wise beyond your years!

Roland F. Harriston P.D
***

Ben L wrote:


I wonder why TV manufacturers never thought of adding a fan.
Because they want it to break sometime after the warranty is over so they can sell you a new one.

Ben


Re: Working wiht plexiglasss - little off the subject

 

My questions:
What to use for gluing. Superglue leaves nasty residue film on everyting and if not accessible it looks crappy.
(So what if they use it to get fingerprints.)
It needs to be strong, fast drying and absolutely invisible.

How do you polish plexiglass? ( The cut edges need to be polished)
I recall using toothpaste, but there must be something made specificly for plexi.
Don't know about Invisible Glue but You can use Fine Wet Sand Paper to polish your edges.


Ben


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

Do you have a reference for that? I have never heard that before and
would like to understand the science behind it.
/01/2011 12:53 PM, AlienRelics wrote:
Do NOT give in to the temptation to get caps with much higher voltages. Electrolytics must run at something not to far under their rated voltage.

I'm not sure what the voltage derating is supposed to be, but I usually try not to use caps at less than 70% of their rated voltages.

First time I have heard of that. I would be interested in information on it. Guess I can see what Google comes up with.

Ben


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

I wonder why TV manufacturers never thought of adding a fan.

Because they want it to break sometime after the warranty is over so they can sell you a new one.

Ben


Photo-flash from Blackberry Curve

 

I have one of these little flash tubes from the camera of a Blackberry cell phone that died a horrible death. Does anyone have any idea what kind of power this thing takes to fire it?

Thanks,

Jim, K6JMG


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

I thought it might be something like that.

I have never heard of that being an issue, but I did manage to blow a cap on my Yaesu FT101EX when I turned it on for the first time in well over a decade. Nothing like starting off with a bang...

I wonder if it's still an issue. After all, we no longer have to take extreme precautions when dealing with CMOS circuitry.

On 01/26/2011 05:08 PM, AlienRelics wrote:
The layer of oxide is not static, it is in a dynamic equilibrium. That is one of the reasons why there will always be a small leakage current. As parts of the oxide lose oxygen atoms and become conductive, a little bit of current forces the aluminum atom to oxidize again.

That is why antique electronics should never be just plugged in and turned on when they've been off for a long time. If you do, then a high leakage current may flow, causing a lot of heat and the caps will fail. Sometimes catastrophically, sometimes the fuse just blows.

We call it "reforming the electrolytes", and we don't mean that we send them to a bootcamp for teenage delinquents. You connect it to a variac (variable power transformer) and start with it at a low voltage and bring it up slowly over a period of days or weeks while monitoring the current draw and temperature of the electrolytic capacitors.

In normal operation, this oxide layer is constantly losing oxygen and then being "reformed" (reoxidized) by the leakage current.

Running an aluminum electrolytic capacitor at well under its rated voltage will cause the oxide layer to not reform correctly and the leakage current may rise. Then the heat can cause pressure that causes leaks around the seals, drying out the electrolyte.

You do need to make sure that the voltage rating is high enough for the peak voltage that the cap will see.

I don't have a link to give you, I learned this long ago. Since most engineers get it drummed into them to save costs and so parts get derated as little as possible, this is more of something that techs learn through experience.

Steve Greenfield AE7HD


Re: Working wiht plexiglasss - little off the subject

Barry Savage
 

On 1/26/2011 8:03 AM, vaclav_sal wrote:

I would like to use plexiglass as my project enclosure (so everybody
can see my messy design!)

My questions:
What to use for gluing. Superglue leaves nasty residue film on
everyting and if not accessible it looks crappy.
(So what if they use it to get fingerprints.)
It needs to be strong, fast drying and absolutely invisible.

How do you polish plexiglass? ( The cut edges need to be polished)
I recall using toothpaste, but there must be something made specificly
for plexi.
Thanks for reading.
Vaclav AA7EJ
Maybe this will help. My brother and I used to make telescope mirrors
from metal, glass and plastic. And we used many different kinds of
polishing compounds, from very rough to extremely fine, like rouge.
Then we would keep "candling" the mirror until it was perfect. Made
some great Newtonian 8-inch scopes that way. Never had to nerve to make
a Argunov--Cassegrain telescope. Just the thought of grinding a hole
through the center of a newly made mirror creeped us out.



Barry


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

Good design philosophy tends to suggest that when selecting a capacitor for a given
application, that the working voltage of the capacitor be as much as twice the applied
voltage. This philosophy is often not practiced in consumer-type equipment, but is
considered in high reliability and military/aerospace designs.

I fail to see how the concept of "reforming capacitors" has any relevance in the instance
under discussion.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
****



Stefan Trethan wrote:


That's just not plausible. The dielectric layer will always be sufficient
for the applied voltage, it is a self regulating process. It might not be
sufficient for the rated voltage if operated for very extended periods very
much below it, same as if it was stored without any voltage, but even that
condition can be rectified by reforming. There is just no mechanism that
causes a capacitor to fail sooner if operated at lower voltage. Just the
opposite, if you use a 400V capacitor in place of say a 25V one it will last
much much longer simply because the can is physically much larger which
always leads to a higher lifetime. I regularly replace capacitors in old
test gear with the largest can size that can be accommodated, which means a
higher voltage rating at the same capacity.

There might be things tech learn through experience, but there might
actually be things the capacitor manufacturers know for sure and techs may
just have misinterpreted.

Anyway this whole reforming issue isn't of all that much importance unless
you are dealing with decades old equipment. Even then it is usually not
needed. Only very old gear (with linear supplies) may be powered up with a
variac, and even there are dangers such as overloading components with the
low input voltage, regulator valves for example.
The jury is divided over the idea, and the only undisputed way to reform
capacitors in such situations is by feeding the internal supply rails with
external current limited supplies. Not worth worrying about in all but the
most exceptional circumstances.

ST

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 11:08 PM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@... <mailto:alienrelics%40yahoo.com>> wrote:


Running an aluminum electrolytic capacitor at well under its rated
voltage
will cause the oxide layer to not reform correctly and the leakage
current
may rise. Then the heat can cause pressure that causes leaks around the
seals, drying out the electrolyte.


Re: LCD monitor power supply

lists
 

In article <AANLkTin5gcLRA+HT7QE3oB=K_9Toc=8y58FMrBc+EWkK@...>,
Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
That's just not plausible. The dielectric layer will always be
sufficient for the applied voltage, it is a self regulating process. It
might not be sufficient for the rated voltage if operated for very
extended periods very much below it, same as if it was stored without
any voltage, but even that condition can be rectified by reforming.
There is just no mechanism that causes a capacitor to fail sooner if
operated at lower voltage. Just the opposite, if you use a 400V
capacitor in place of say a 25V one it will last much much longer simply
because the can is physically much larger which always leads to a higher
lifetime. I regularly replace capacitors in old test gear with the
largest can size that can be accommodated, which means a higher voltage
rating at the same capacity.
Agreed!

If you run a 400V capacitor at 100V, say, eventually it will become a 100V
capacitor but it will not fail prematurely. Also, it will retain the
abillity to be re-formed bsck up to 400V.

--
Stuart


Re: LCD monitor power supply

Stefan Trethan
 

That's just not plausible. The dielectric layer will always be sufficient
for the applied voltage, it is a self regulating process. It might not be
sufficient for the rated voltage if operated for very extended periods very
much below it, same as if it was stored without any voltage, but even that
condition can be rectified by reforming. There is just no mechanism that
causes a capacitor to fail sooner if operated at lower voltage. Just the
opposite, if you use a 400V capacitor in place of say a 25V one it will last
much much longer simply because the can is physically much larger which
always leads to a higher lifetime. I regularly replace capacitors in old
test gear with the largest can size that can be accommodated, which means a
higher voltage rating at the same capacity.

There might be things tech learn through experience, but there might
actually be things the capacitor manufacturers know for sure and techs may
just have misinterpreted.

Anyway this whole reforming issue isn't of all that much importance unless
you are dealing with decades old equipment. Even then it is usually not
needed. Only very old gear (with linear supplies) may be powered up with a
variac, and even there are dangers such as overloading components with the
low input voltage, regulator valves for example.
The jury is divided over the idea, and the only undisputed way to reform
capacitors in such situations is by feeding the internal supply rails with
external current limited supplies. Not worth worrying about in all but the
most exceptional circumstances.

ST

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 11:08 PM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote:


Running an aluminum electrolytic capacitor at well under its rated voltage
will cause the oxide layer to not reform correctly and the leakage current
may rise. Then the heat can cause pressure that causes leaks around the
seals, drying out the electrolyte.


Re: LCD monitor power supply

 

The layer of oxide is not static, it is in a dynamic equilibrium. That is one of the reasons why there will always be a small leakage current. As parts of the oxide lose oxygen atoms and become conductive, a little bit of current forces the aluminum atom to oxidize again.

That is why antique electronics should never be just plugged in and turned on when they've been off for a long time. If you do, then a high leakage current may flow, causing a lot of heat and the caps will fail. Sometimes catastrophically, sometimes the fuse just blows.

We call it "reforming the electrolytes", and we don't mean that we send them to a bootcamp for teenage delinquents. You connect it to a variac (variable power transformer) and start with it at a low voltage and bring it up slowly over a period of days or weeks while monitoring the current draw and temperature of the electrolytic capacitors.

In normal operation, this oxide layer is constantly losing oxygen and then being "reformed" (reoxidized) by the leakage current.

Running an aluminum electrolytic capacitor at well under its rated voltage will cause the oxide layer to not reform correctly and the leakage current may rise. Then the heat can cause pressure that causes leaks around the seals, drying out the electrolyte.

You do need to make sure that the voltage rating is high enough for the peak voltage that the cap will see.

I don't have a link to give you, I learned this long ago. Since most engineers get it drummed into them to save costs and so parts get derated as little as possible, this is more of something that techs learn through experience.

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

--- In Electronics_101@..., Ross McKenzie <valusoft@...> wrote:

Steve,

Do you have a reference for that? I have never heard that before and
would like to understand the science behind it.

Thanks,

Ross

On 26/01/2011 12:53 PM, AlienRelics wrote:
Do NOT give in to the temptation to get caps with much higher voltages. Electrolytics must run at something not to far under their rated voltage.

I'm not sure what the voltage derating is supposed to be, but I usually try not to use caps at less than 70% of their rated voltages.

Steve Greenfield AE7HD