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I have setup my 15” F4.5 Obsession with ServoCAT and AN for imaging. ?To achieve enough back focus I have a separate set of truss poles shortened by 2”. ?My imaging setup is a MallinCam 2”

Gary, At the request of a few customers, Rock Mallin will be making a camera based on the industrial, ceramic version of the IMX585 sensor. It has much tighter tolerances on pixel height than the

Yes besides pretty pictures it is incredible fun to pluck amazing (and faint) objects out of the sky and onto the screen. Here’s one example of the twin quasar 8.6 Billion Ly distant in Ursa Major.

Thank you Sevan - I'll check it out further.... and thanks Wes. Wes, the issue with the SmartEye is that I've no clue when its going to be available or how well it will work. I think it is a good 9 -

Wes, Mallincam color cameras are also very sensitive! ?I bet is that Gary will not need to shorten his truss poles if he gets a camera with a back focus of 20mm or less. My expensive Ethos eyepieces

Hey Gary, A few thoughts. I didn’t shorten the poles but just made a shorter set. If you go down the OSC route.( yes the Mallin cam is vv sensitive but why have B&W when ppl respond to COLOUR!!) you

That is correct!? It's completely silent as to a Paracorr position.? You have to figure it out, but it's not hard. Here is the picture for the Pro version that I have: The 2" portion is the outside

Gary I use the DS10cTec Tool these in Feb 2024

Gary, I own multiple cameras for imaging, and use them on multiple different rigs. But in the past I have imaged with my 20" F5 Galaxy Obsession many times. If i was starting fresh on a budget, I

Gary, The DS10c (non-cooled version) and the DS10cTEC (cooled version) have the same sensor depth – 17.5mm from the face plate of the camera. However, I do not know if cutting the truss poles would

Sevan, I'm confused by the statement that the 183 has a "Paracorr II position on the tunable top" ... looking at the ZWO webpage I don't see any reference to that. g.

Thank you Sevan, Interesting and informative. I had ruled out the 183 due to amp glow... and its pretty old in the tooth... but maybe I'll revisit it. Gary

It depends very much on the camera.? The relevant term to look out for is "flange focal distance".? That's the space between the body of the camera and sensor.? For DSLR's that's typically on the

Thanks to all - fantastic responses. So - Jack. The DS10, do you know if it would require the tubes to be shortened? It is a good bit more than I wanted to spend, at least for EAA work. The 287 on the

Richard that is a great image of the galaxy- nice work!! Fernando Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

Jack, Thanks much. Makes sense. Mike Dreis [email protected]> wrote:

Mike, I should have said, the focal length of the primary mirror stays the same. Adding a focal reducer changes the effective f/ratio of the system. My 17.5” ServoCAT equipped TeleKIT is f/4.8. With

Mike, When a focal reducer is used with a camera or an eyepiece, the effect is moving the focal plane inward toward the secondary. All shortening the truss poles does is push the focal plane further

Gary, Night before last Blackeye galaxy with 100 seconds (10 stacks of 10 second exposure) from my UC18 and DS10cTEC.? Just a little post processing to add the text and remove my background gradient.

Gary, My black and white "EAA" images with "almost" no post processing.