Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: boring
Charles E. Kinzer
That thinking sounds good to me.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Another thing that can bite you when boring is not having enough tool relief or having the tool shank or holder rub on the part. Boring requires extra attention to tool relief to make sure only the cutting edge contacts the workpiece and nothing else rubs against it. Of course, the smaller the hole, the harder it is to have enough relief for clearance. If grinding boring tools from regular tool blanks, it can require a lot of grinding to remove enough material for the clearance. Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 4:13 PM Subject: [SPAM] Re: [7x12minilathe] boring Hi Gerry, Ah, now that makes sense. Having not tried any boring yet, but having recently bought a set of 3/8" carbide boring tools to try, I've been following this discussion to learn the issues. Can someone confirm my thinking? As far as I can see, springing of the boring bar itself should be by a pretty constant amount. After all, the length of bar extended stays constant. So spring should be determined only by the depth of cut and advance rate. Minimise both. Of course, spring of the workpiece is another matter. While that too can be minimised in the same way, the amount of workpiece spring varies along the job as you move between the t/s and h/s (and possibly steady) support points. Is that about it? John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "hanley_gerald" <gbhan@...> wrote: > > > > Thanks to all who replied. For the benefit of all--I've been using > the compound screw. That appears to be the problem. > > This the way you learn! > Gerry > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" > <ckinzer@> wrote: > > > > If the problem is that the hole is bell mouthed, then springing > would be a concern. Otherwise the tool is, for some reason, simply > cutting a taper. > > > > This same thing came up on one of the minilathe sites recently and, > as Kevin just suggested, in that case it was because the tool was > moved with a not exactly parallel compound instead of moving the tool > with the carriage. > > > > Chuck K. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Kevin Jones > > To: 7x12minilathe@... > > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:09 AM > > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [7x12minilathe] boring > > > > > > >The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) at > > >the tailstock end. I've read about boring bar "springing" and > have been > > >careful to try to avoid this. > > > > The springing is going to have a lot to do with the boring bar > length > > vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is the > hole > > you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is it ? > > > > Also you are not using the compound screw to advance the boring > bar > > into the work are you ? Unless you've set the compound angle > using an > > indicator its most likely not set to be parallel to the spindle. > If > > its not parallel to the spindle then you are boring a taper using > > whatever angle the compound is set at. > > > > Regards, > > Kevin Jones > > Louisville, KY > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Yep, it's good and easy to read. However, its tabulated simplicity
is not as complete as it could be. I certainly have unlisted inserts. OTOH, Machinery's Handbook gives the breakdown of the numeric part as size, thickness & point radius. That said, either they got it wrong or not all tip makers properly conform. I have some TCMT732 tips which Machinery's would assert had an inscribed circle of 7/8" (size=7 in eighths of an inch) whereas they are 1/4". Similarly, the thickness and point radius don't match. It's not like Machinery's to be wrong. Bottom line: Caveat emptor! John <clypeaster55@...> wrote: <ckinzer@> wrote: information and look the same, but don't have the Valenite brand information that is in the MSC chart. you can select html or pdf format. Nomenclature? used ANSI> a "1" at the end of the expansion group or a "2"). Under the wrote:> Carbide Insert Nomenclature. Group> > > name? |
|
[SPAM] Re: boring
Hi Gerry,
Ah, now that makes sense. Having not tried any boring yet, but having recently bought a set of 3/8" carbide boring tools to try, I've been following this discussion to learn the issues. Can someone confirm my thinking? As far as I can see, springing of the boring bar itself should be by a pretty constant amount. After all, the length of bar extended stays constant. So spring should be determined only by the depth of cut and advance rate. Minimise both. Of course, spring of the workpiece is another matter. While that too can be minimised in the same way, the amount of workpiece spring varies along the job as you move between the t/s and h/s (and possibly steady) support points. Is that about it? John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "hanley_gerald" <gbhan@...> wrote: simply cutting a taper.and, as Kevin just suggested, in that case it was because the tool wastool with the carriage.thehave been holeit ?you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is boring barspindle.into the work are you ? Unless you've set the compound angleusing anindicator its most likely not set to be parallel to the Ifusingits not parallel to the spindle then you are boring a taper whatever angle the compound is set at. |
|
Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Marty N
John writes: There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only load bearing on that surface is when the carriage tries to lift <snip> Mike writes: Actually, this isn't quite true. There's a force lifting the rear of the carriage whenever the tool is cutting the outside of the work (i.e., not when making a facing cut). Therefore, you should expect the rear to wear more than the front on the bottom (and perhaps the front to wear more on the top). I write: Point well made, I hadn't thought that far ahead yet but I can see it as you say Mike. As far as excessive John, for most of us I suppose that's true enough but I've also seen personal sites where the tool has been hung so far past the bed I wondered why not just buy a bigger machine. Fellows are always trying to make this thing run "larger" than it is. Fair 'nuff Marty. I get down to detail in electronics stuff where I know my territory. No qualms about ripping commercial gear apart and redesigning. This stuff is out of my territory and went counter-intuitive for me so I figured I'd raise the query. Later, John I write: I put a bunch of these snips together so I could do this in one post. I know what you mean John. Within our "field" we tend to break it down to nothing and rebuild it to what we see as the "ultimate" design. I think it is when we observe from outside our "field" that we get that counter feeling. Remember when I asked the meter question the stir that rose? Playing outside my park :) Ya know, a bunch of bright guys would pool at that experience. I lead with a link to an excellent article. Mineral verses synthetic lubricants. It will make you think twice about Mobil 1 for way oil if you understand the viscosity-pressure coefficient data. Room temperature being one of those areas where it's just hard to beat a good mineral oil. Give it a read and tell me what you get from it if you wish. Marty |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
That really IS good! Thanks for the link!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" <ckinzer@...> wrote:
|
|
Tailstock chuck - Groz vs. LFA
I've been sharing my drill press chuck with my lathe. Besides always
being on the wrong tool, and the key lost somewhere between the two, this chuck is off center at least .010". Fortunately, Busy Bee put their 1/2" LFA chuck on sale for $70 (reg 85). But then I noticed they had also put their 1/2" Groz chuck on for $30 (45). Naturally they also have a few cheapos. I have a few Groz tools and like them very much, but do you think I should spring the extra $40 for an LFA? Thanks for your opinions! |
|
[SPAM] Re: boring
hanley_gerald
Thanks to all who replied. For the benefit of all--I've been using
the compound screw. That appears to be the problem. This the way you learn! Gerry --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" <ckinzer@...> wrote: would be a concern. Otherwise the tool is, for some reason, simply cutting a taper. as Kevin just suggested, in that case it was because the tool was moved with a not exactly parallel compound instead of moving the tool with the carriage. have been >careful to try to avoid this.length vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is thehole you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is it ?bar into the work are you ? Unless you've set the compound angleusing an indicator its most likely not set to be parallel to the spindle.If its not parallel to the spindle then you are boring a taper using |
|
Re: [SPAM] Re: boring
Charles E. Kinzer
If the problem is that the hole is bell mouthed, then springing would be a concern. Otherwise the tool is, for some reason, simply cutting a taper.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This same thing came up on one of the minilathe sites recently and, as Kevin just suggested, in that case it was because the tool was moved with a not exactly parallel compound instead of moving the tool with the carriage. Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Jones To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:09 AM Subject: [SPAM] Re: [7x12minilathe] boring >The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) at >the tailstock end. I've read about boring bar "springing" and have been >careful to try to avoid this. The springing is going to have a lot to do with the boring bar length vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is the hole you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is it ? Also you are not using the compound screw to advance the boring bar into the work are you ? Unless you've set the compound angle using an indicator its most likely not set to be parallel to the spindle. If its not parallel to the spindle then you are boring a taper using whatever angle the compound is set at. Regards, Kevin Jones Louisville, KY |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Charles E. Kinzer
Found it. It's VERY good.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here are a couple of others which seem to have the same same key information and look the same, but don't have the Valenite brand information that is in the MSC chart. So, it turns out Enco has this at: and you can select html or pdf format. Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: paul_probus To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:51 AM Subject: [SPAM] [7x12minilathe] Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature? Correction, the name of the file is: ANSI_Indexable_Insert_Info_MSC555.pdf Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote: > > Not sure why, but here you go: > > hobbymachineshopfiles > > Plug that into Yahoo's search on the Groups homepage and you should > get two hits. It's the original group (can't remember if I used > a "1" at the end of the expansion group or a "2"). Under the Files > section, scroll down and it's something to the effect of ANSI > Carbide Insert Nomenclature. > > Sorry about the inconvenience. > > Paul > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote: > > > > Paul, > > > > Don't think any of us can find the file. What's the Yahoo Group > name? > > > > Rance > > > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" > <paul_probus@> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > ... It is one of my groups and you'll have to > > > > > join before you can see it. ... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
|
Re: boring
The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) atThe springing is going to have a lot to do with the boring bar length vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is the hole you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is it ? Also you are not using the compound screw to advance the boring bar into the work are you ? Unless you've set the compound angle using an indicator its most likely not set to be parallel to the spindle. If its not parallel to the spindle then you are boring a taper using whatever angle the compound is set at. Regards, Kevin Jones Louisville, KY |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Correction, the name of the file is:
ANSI_Indexable_Insert_Info_MSC555.pdf Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote: should get two hits. It's the original group (can't remember if I usedFiles section, scroll down and it's something to the effect of ANSI |
|
boring
hanley_gerald
I am working my way through my first project and and have been boring
an aluminum engine cylinder. The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) at the tailstock end. I've read about boring bar "springing" and have been careful to try to avoid this. Any suggestions about alignment issues or technique I may be overlooking. Thanks. Gerry |
|
Re: 1st microwave to tear apart
Have a look here:
Like the article says, their should be a bleeder on the capacitor to render it safe, but it can fail and there's no way for most to safely test the capacitor to see if it's drained. Microwave's main transformers usually have their secondary winding separate from their primary. For *repurposing*, this is a great benefit as the fairly useless 2000v winding can be removed and replaced with a lower voltage one easily. |
|
1st microwave to tear apart
I got a free microwave and want to take it apart but
need to be sure i do it safely. Have heard about the residual build up of voltage in the capacitor. Can someone give me a procedure to properly discharge it so I can begin? Any other things to watch out for? Thanks very mcuh, Rick in CO ____________________________________________________________________________________ No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started. |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Paul,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Don't think any of us can find the file. What's the Yahoo Group name? Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@> |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
"Document not found"
Brewster --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul_probus" <paul_probus@...> wrote: <paul_probus@> towrote: here,join before you can see it. Sorry, I would have uploaded itotherbut like I said earlier... |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
They're welcome to it. I leached it from MSC's website,
originally. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote: section? :) Thanks for considering my request.here, otherbut like I said earlier... thekinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference for majority of the inserts made. |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
If you're a member, it should bring you right to the link, like it
did for me (I just tried it right before posting). For non-members it should take people to the group's homepage and inform them that they need to be members to view the file, at least that's what I get with links to files in groups that I'm not a member of. If you're not getting either of those, there must be something interfering with your ability to go to that link. Perhaps the server was busy? Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer" <ckinzer@...> wrote: here, but like I said earlier...other kinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference forthe majority of the inserts made.9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. Inask for ordoesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require anangled holder,would bebrass, and thedesignations meanthem? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, theanything but |
|
Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature?
Charles E. Kinzer
I'm getting a "web page not found" for that link. ???
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Chuck K. ----- Original Message -----
From: paul_probus To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:42 AM Subject: [SPAM] [7x12minilathe] Re: Carbide Insert Nomenclature? Here is a link, since I could not upload a file into the Files section of the group. It is one of my groups and you'll have to join before you can see it. Sorry, I would have uploaded it here, but like I said earlier... It may not be the most up-to-date (if they've come up with any other kinds of inserts), but it should give you a good reference for the majority of the inserts made. Paul --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55" <clypeaster55@...> wrote: > > I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20 > design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In gathering > the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for or > order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses a "TNMG"? > insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't > specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled holder, > since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making my > own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for me, > that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would be > good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and the > occaisional SS). > > So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations mean > and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and > nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them? > After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the only "T" > codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything but > the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though! > > Any advice is MUCH appreciated. > |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss