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Hi Mike, Agreed. I just ordered a scissor type from LMS with exactly that thought in mind. John nyc@...> wrote: lathes). not like that work

I bought a pair of knurls a year or two ago, but I haven't made a knurling tool yet (which will be of the "scissors" type. Using the "traditional" type would be pushing your luck on these little

Check out the chucks on sale at LMS. I bought this $9.00 one and am very happy with the quality. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1212&category= Trevor

Hi Kevin, At the risk of being politically incorrect, I was once advised to treat it like a woman. :-o (sound of quickly drawn breath in disbelief!) I think they meant a bigger hammer or more force or

Hi, I bought one of these from a guy in the US. At first glance I thought the angles looked wrong so I inserted a triangular carbide tip into the 60 degree V. Wouldn't fit. But it fitted the Whitworth

wrote: motor Interesting find you would think it would be cooler than that can not have much air opening and also let chips in though. Maybe a small comp fan and a fine screen to keep material out

Hi! I thought you folks might like to know about a new product my son's company is marketing. I haven't seen these gauges offered for sale anywhere else. They are great for checking the angle on your

Hi Rick, If you're in demolition mode (as opposed to repair mode) then you won't be too concerned about possible damage to the capacitor from a dramatically fast discharge. In that case, you can skip

That thinking sounds good to me. Another thing that can bite you when boring is not having enough tool relief or having the tool shank or holder rub on the part. Boring requires extra attention to

Yep, it's good and easy to read. However, its tabulated simplicity is not as complete as it could be. I certainly have unlisted inserts. OTOH, Machinery's Handbook gives the breakdown of the numeric

Hi Gerry, Ah, now that makes sense. Having not tried any boring yet, but having recently bought a set of 3/8" carbide boring tools to try, I've been following this discussion to learn the issues. Can

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=586&relatedbookgroup=Lubrication John writes: There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only load bearing on that surface is

I just got my new Homier 7x12. I removed the hex nut on the reversed cross slide handle, but I can't get it off. Is there a trick? I don't want to apply too much force and damage the machine. Thanks,

That really IS good! Thanks for the link!

I've been sharing my drill press chuck with my lathe. Besides always being on the wrong tool, and the key lost somewhere between the two, this chuck is off center at least .010". Fortunately, Busy Bee

Thanks to all who replied. For the benefit of all--I've been using the compound screw. That appears to be the problem. This the way you learn! Gerry <ckinzer@...> wrote: would be a concern. Otherwise

If the problem is that the hole is bell mouthed, then springing would be a concern. Otherwise the tool is, for some reason, simply cutting a taper. This same thing came up on one of the minilathe

Found it. It's VERY good. Here are a couple of others which seem to have the same same key information and look the same, but don't have the Valenite brand information that is in the MSC chart.

The springing is going to have a lot to do with the boring bar length vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is the hole you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is

Correction, the name of the file is: ANSI_Indexable_Insert_Info_MSC555.pdf Paul <paul_probus@...> wrote: should Files