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Re: Tailstock
Hi John, A bit more sophisticated than my solution. I found that the cork from a sherry bottle (the type with a platic top/rim and a cork stopper) fits neatly without he need to do anyhing to it Gerry W Leeds UK To: 7x12minilathe@... From: bechetboat@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 23:05:24 -0800 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector. It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT. The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up. it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy. Regards John L Spain. |
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
Don Leitch
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here. Don On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
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Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John Lindo
It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gearadapterfrom an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John
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Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
Don Leitch
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m. To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons. I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough. John L |
Tailstock
John Lindo
PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector. It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT. The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up. it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy. Regards John L Spain. |
Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John Lindo
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons. I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I
decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot
a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5841344959009276481 Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough. John L |
Re: LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look
Now I don't have theCadillacyou have but the five took out thecontrolbox on mine slick as a whistle be careful very very light cuts with the five you have a lot more mass to spin. Warren From: Michael Jablonski To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 4:22 PM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look Well I
finally got around to mounting the LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck on the
Micromark 7x16.
Here
are a couple of pictures:
<
>
< > My
first thoughts now that I have it are that maybe the 5 inch is a bit much for a
7x lathe. While the Micromark motor has no problem spinning it up, the added
mass of the 5 inch takes a while to spin downto a stop.
The 5
inch weighs in around 14 pounds with the requiredadapter
plate.
The
standard 3 inch weighs in at 3.25 pounds.
IT IS
POSSIBLE to extend the jaws out far enough so that they will hit the bed. A
little care will need to be taken so this does not happen. I opened it up so it
could hold a piece around 2.75 inch in diameter and the jaws had a comfortable
clearance over the bed. This was with the jaws in the position as in the photos,
I haven't turned the jaws around yet to take any measurements in that
configuration.
I'm
wondering now if maybe a 4 inch chuck would have been better.
Michael - USA Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16 |
Re: Which lube do you use
Thanks
Roy,
The
link below for the "How To Run A Lathe" book is a better copy than the one I
have.
So to
the people I have already sent it out to via email, you may want to save a copy
of the one linked below.
Michael - USA Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
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Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
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Re: Which lube do you use
Here's one source:
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Here are some more South Bend books: Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Don Leitch" wrote:
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Re: Which lube do you use
Bruce Prager
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Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 8:37 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Mike I would be
very interested Thanks
Mike@...
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Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
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Re: Which lube do you use
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From: Don Leitch To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Mon, February 4, 2013 4:27:18 PM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don’t mind Don zl1atb don@...
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today. The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge. I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
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Re: Which lube do you use
Don Leitch
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m. To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today. The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge. I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
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Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
Hi John,
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I was describing the "accepted conventional nomenclature for machine tool axes". Yes, you can place the axis readouts anywhere you want them and they will work and only you know what your readout is telling you but it will work for you. This would probably not be considered good practice in a production environment, but in a home workshop you can do whatever suits you. Cheers! Dick --- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Doty wrote:
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Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
Hi Mike,
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You are welcome! I am glad that I could help shed some light on this confusing subject. Some things don't always seem to make sense at first. This is one of them. Dick --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "drmico60" wrote:
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Re: Which lube do you use
MERTON B BAKER
Every newbie should read that one at least before
buying a lathe.� "Tabletop Machining"� is another good one.�
Aimed at the Sherline ,but it's useful for 7x & Unimat users as
well. Interestingly, books written about lathe work a hundred years
ago are germane to what is possible with a�7x machine; the big change was
HSS tooling and then carbide.
�
Mert�
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Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
It seems a number of people are confused by the X,
Y and Z axes. It is better to start without thinking of any machine. The X and Y
axes are at right angle to each other and cross the axis of the workholding
device. The Z axis is in line with, towards and away from the workholder. Thus,
the outline that Peter wrote is correct for a vertical milling machine. For a
lathe, the X axis is the cross slide and the Z axis is the carriage and any
movement of the tailstock quill. There is no Y axis on a lathe, unless you mount
a vertical slide on the carriage. It is easier to consider all movements in
relation to the workholding device.
HTH
Ellis |