Date

Re: Tailstock

 

Hi John,

A bit more sophisticated than my solution. I found that the cork from a sherry bottle (the type with a platic top/rim and a cork stopper) fits neatly without he need to do anyhing to it

Gerry W
Leeds UK



To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: bechetboat@...
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 23:05:24 -0800
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock


PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector.
It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when
I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT.
The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up.
it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy.

Regards
John L
Spain.


Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

Don Leitch
 

thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
Don




On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gearadapterfrom an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John



From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons.
I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L



Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

John Lindo
 

It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gearadapterfrom an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John



From: Don Leitch
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons.
I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L



Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

Don Leitch
 

John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?

Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.

Don zl1atb

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.

I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons.

I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.

I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.

My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.

The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.

I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.

but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.

Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the

tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.

You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.

If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from

going inside it.The DRO works fine now.

You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.

I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.

So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and

sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.

The sideways motion has now gone away.

Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.

Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.

John L


Tailstock

John Lindo
 

PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector.
It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when
I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT.
The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up.
it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy.

Regards
John L
Spain.


Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

John Lindo
 

A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch ireturnedto find it hadmelted the some of the push buttons.
I wasdevastated,immediately rangHugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.

You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5841344959009276481
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.

Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.

John L


Re: Which lube do you use

 

Hi all,
Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted 1:5 with Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be diluted for recirculation systems.) on my mini mill and sometimes for finishing cuts on the lathe. Only time I use it neat is for tapping. Works for me and cuts costs a tad.
John B


Re: LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look

 

Now I don't have theCadillacyou have but the five took out thecontrolbox on mine slick as a whistle be careful very very light cuts with the five you have a lot more mass to spin. Warren


From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 4:22 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look

Well I finally got around to mounting the LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck on the Micromark 7x16.
Here are a couple of pictures:
< >
< >
My first thoughts now that I have it are that maybe the 5 inch is a bit much for a 7x lathe. While the Micromark motor has no problem spinning it up, the added mass of the 5 inch takes a while to spin downto a stop.
The 5 inch weighs in around 14 pounds with the requiredadapter plate.
The standard 3 inch weighs in at 3.25 pounds.
IT IS POSSIBLE to extend the jaws out far enough so that they will hit the bed. A little care will need to be taken so this does not happen. I opened it up so it could hold a piece around 2.75 inch in diameter and the jaws had a comfortable clearance over the bed. This was with the jaws in the position as in the photos, I haven't turned the jaws around yet to take any measurements in that configuration.
I'm wondering now if maybe a 4 inch chuck would have been better.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16





Re: Which lube do you use

 

Thanks Roy,
The link below for the "How To Run A Lathe" book is a better copy than the one I have.
So to the people I have already sent it out to via email, you may want to save a copy of the one linked below.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Roy
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:46 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Which lube do you use

Here's one source:



Here are some more South Bend books:



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Don Leitch" wrote:
>
> Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don't mind
>
> Don zl1atb
>
> don@...
>
>
>
> From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
> On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
> Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m.
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
>
>
> The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices
> still hold true today.
>
> The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
> charge.
>
> I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are
> interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
>
>
> Michael - USA
>
> Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
> On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
> Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to
> what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to
> flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old
> fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done
> with aluminum.
>
>
>
> Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and
> mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
>


Re: Which lube do you use

Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
 

Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of michael kolchins
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 3:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike


From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux.
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist.
mike

From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my workwill be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?





No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13


Re: Which lube do you use

 

Here's one source:



Here are some more South Bend books:



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Don Leitch" wrote:

Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don't mind

Don zl1atb

don@...



From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use





The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices
still hold true today.

The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
charge.

I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are
interested. It is a little over 3 megs.


Michael - USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use



Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to
what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to
flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old
fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done
with aluminum.



Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and
mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?


Re: Which lube do you use

Bruce Prager
 

I would like a copy if possible. No rush.
Bruce

Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 8:37 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Mike I would be very interested Thanks
Mike@...
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.
The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.
I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13


Re: Which lube do you use

Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
 

Mike I would be very interested Thanks
Mike@...

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.
The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.
I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my workwill be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13


Re: Which lube do you use

 

me also !
george


From: Don Leitch
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 4, 2013 4:27:18 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don’t mind

Don zl1atb

don@...

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.

The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.

I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.


Michael - USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my workwill be done with aluminum.

Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?


Re: Which lube do you use

Don Leitch
 

Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don’t mind

Don zl1atb

don@...

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.

The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.

I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.


Michael - USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my workwill be done with aluminum.

Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?


Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?

 

Hi John,

I was describing the "accepted conventional nomenclature for machine tool axes".

Yes, you can place the axis readouts anywhere you want them and they will work and only you know what your readout is telling you but it will work for you. This would probably not be considered good practice in a production environment, but in a home workshop you can do whatever suits you.

Cheers!
Dick

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Doty wrote:

Some people use the z axis of a three axis DRO readout to measure the compound slide movement, or the tailstock feed.

I put the z axis on the compound slide and use the built-in readout on a digital slide mounted to my tailstock so I have digital readouts everywhere I need them.

dotyman


On Feb 4, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Dick wrote:


Gerry,
What you stated applies to a vertical mill but not a lathe.
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote:

Hi Mike,

The axis when you are stood at the operators position at the front are;

X Side to side
Y Front to back
Z Up and down

Gerry W
Leeds UK

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: mikey.cox@
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:35:46 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?


























Hi Dick,

I am not quite sure what the Z axis is and I note that other people are also confused judging by some of your replies. However, I have added a digital readout to the long axis of my lathe that measures the position of the saddle along the bed.

For more information see:



Mike



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" wrote:

I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn of any experiences others may have had when doing this mod.
Thanks
Dick


Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?

 

Hi Mike,
You are welcome!
I am glad that I could help shed some light on this confusing subject. Some things don't always seem to make sense at first. This is one of them.
Dick

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "drmico60" wrote:

Dick,
Thanks for the explanation re lathe axes. It seems to be a cause of confusion to others as well.
Mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" wrote:


Mike,
On a lathe the long axis which is parallel to the bed is known as the z axis. This can be confusing because when you stand in front of a vertical mill the right to left axis is the x axis. Despite what may seem logical, the axis of the revolving spindle is the z axis.
The z axis on a vertical mill is the spindle axis, the z axis of a horizontal mill is the axis of the spindle.
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "drmico60" wrote:

Hi Dick,
I am not quite sure what the Z axis is and I note that other people are also confused judging by some of your replies. However, I have added a digital readout to the long axis of my lathe that measures the position of the saddle along the bed.
For more information see:

Mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" wrote:

I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn of any experiences others may have had when doing this mod.
Thanks
Dick


Re: Which lube do you use

MERTON B BAKER
 

Every newbie should read that one at least before buying a lathe.� "Tabletop Machining"� is another good one.� Aimed at the Sherline ,but it's useful for 7x & Unimat users as well. Interestingly, books written about lathe work a hundred years ago are germane to what is possible with a�7x machine; the big change was HSS tooling and then carbide.
Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.
The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.
I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use

Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my workwill be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?


Re: Which lube do you use

 

I use rubbing alcohol on alum. 91% isopropyl. It works really good for parting and leaves a nice finish.. Just remember to wipe it off your machine and oil when done


Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?

 

It seems a number of people are confused by the X, Y and Z axes. It is better to start without thinking of any machine. The X and Y axes are at right angle to each other and cross the axis of the workholding device. The Z axis is in line with, towards and away from the workholder. Thus, the outline that Peter wrote is correct for a vertical milling machine. For a lathe, the X axis is the cross slide and the Z axis is the carriage and any movement of the tailstock quill. There is no Y axis on a lathe, unless you mount a vertical slide on the carriage. It is easier to consider all movements in relation to the workholding device.
HTH
Ellis