The recommendation is that your lathe be at elbow height when standing or sitting. I've never been able to get comfortable without the frame of the table hitting the top of my legs. There isn't much room between my elbows and the tops of my legs when sitting.
Since your elbows are different heights when sitting and standing, you need to be able to adjust the table or the chair/stool. Just cutting the legs won't fix your problem.
I finally figured out that if I put the lathe on a taller table and use a drafting stool, my legs aren't at right angles so I have more room for them under the table. The lathe is higher when I am standing, but that puts it closer to my old eyes.
So, for me, higher is better.
toggle quoted message
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand wrote:
Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.
On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. wrote:
Message
I'm getting a heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a
heavy set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound weight I
ended up with a bench that is to high to comfortably work while
sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule of thumb
'height wise" that I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs
off so that the bench ends up to low.
Thanks Mike
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.
On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating
Air Conditioning Co. wrote:
I'm getting a
heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy
set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound
weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to
comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would
be is there a rule of thumb 'height wise" that?I should
shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs off so that the
bench ends up to low.
?
Thanks Mike
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
I'm getting a heavy bench set
up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy set of casters that were sized to
accept the 400 pound weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to
comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule
of thumb 'height wise" that?I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the
legs off so that the bench ends up to low.
?
Thanks
Mike
|
Re: Which lube do you use
The problem is cast iron swarf is a powder; there's enough carbon in it that cutting oil would just make a mess. Worse yet, the outer "skin" of some cast iron has a little sand in it. Cutting oil would make that even more annoying to deal with. As it is, CI is actually pleasant to machine, just a little messy to clean up after.
Roy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co." wrote:
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
|
Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Anyone know anything about these? Found one listed for $650 on eBay. The description says variable speed and the seller says it has no high/low gear box. Just looking to see if there's anyone that knows anything about them.
Bob
|
Re: 100mm spindle source in US?
Glad to be able to help. Mike of this Group put one on his Clarke (rebadged Sieg) 7x lathe, and fitted taper roller bearings to the spindle at the same time - something you might like to consider. See
< >
Andy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinist1930" wrote:
Yep...that did it. They dont have it listed in replacement parts on their site, but Jeff there hooked me up.
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:
It's an item from Real Bull, rather than Seig, but it is to the same specs, apart from the 100mm flange. There are several RB dealers here in the UK, but as far as I know, Amadeal is the only one offering it.
The only US supplier of RBs which ever gets mentioned on this group is Big Dog Metalworks < >. Their 7 x 14 has a 100mm chuck, and judging by the picture, the spindle has a flange to match. Maybe you could contact them to ask if they can supply the spindle.
Andy
|
Re: Boring bar setup question
Thanks. I've actually had some good results flipping the bar over to the flat milled on the bottom and cutting on the back side of the work. I set the bar low (high on the cut) and it actually looks like a lathe cut it, not chipped out with dull deer antlers, hahaha! cnc sales <gcode.fi@...> wrote:
?
I think it would work fine.
It?s neither rocket science nor too hard,
Just some positive rake and thats it.
On 03/02/2013 19:59, Ryan Hodges wrote:
?
Thanks!
Do you think a "P" insert (11°) would help? It's only 6°
but better than the 2 I have now.
cnc sales <gcode.fi@...> wrote:
|
Re: 100mm spindle source in US?
Yep...that did it. They dont have it listed in replacement parts on their site, but Jeff there hooked me up.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:
It's an item from Real Bull, rather than Seig, but it is to the same specs, apart from the 100mm flange. There are several RB dealers here in the UK, but as far as I know, Amadeal is the only one offering it.
The only US supplier of RBs which ever gets mentioned on this group is Big Dog Metalworks < >. Their 7 x 14 has a 100mm chuck, and judging by the picture, the spindle has a flange to match. Maybe you could contact them to ask if they can supply the spindle.
Andy
|
Just a little history. Nichrome wire?can?also be called
Chromel. Hoskins Manufacturing Company?sells Nichrome wire under
their?registered trademark name of Chromel. My father manufactured wire
wound resistors for over 50 years. There are several different blends of the
nickel-chromium and sometimes iron alloy.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
?
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-----Original Message-----
From:
7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On
Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 5:16
AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Re: Horsepower Resistor
?
Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance whatever
you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound resistors.
I
have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to
try.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
On 05/02/13 07:21, alex4459jopiklal44
wrote:
?
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44"
wrote:
> I agree , either use a 0.022 or 4 in parallel .
>
If you look at the schematic, you will see that all curent drawn is going
through this resistor, and an opamp are then measuring on the current
..
> The only thing that could happen is that the motor draw a bit
more before the regulator cutt out.
>
> it would be close to 12
percent more..if they are spot on value.. therefore choose 5% or better ,in
tollerance.
>
> to be on the safe side, you could choose a
0.033 .,but if there is room for 4 , maybe 2watt then I would choose this
solution with four 0.1 R
> alex
>
I think ,now after
looking at the schematic again, that it is best to get as close as possible
to the original value,,that is 4 times 0.1 ohm parallel = 0.025 ohm ,as said
from others.
there is a CL adjust in conection to the resistor ,guess
this is current limit..it look as it turn the regulation to zero when max
current is exceeded.. There are another path through an adjustment marked IR
,witch I think is current- regulation.. it end at the same point where the
speed potmeter goes. so it must be a regulation to keep the moment steady
,when motor is loaded..
alex
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
No,this was a purpose built DRO unit to fit the Weiss mill, You will note from the photos that it is attached to the bracket by 2 brass screws. these holes were originally to attach the DRO to the mill quill. maximum travel I think is 3" which is more than than lathe quill will travel before running out of thread. If you use a?converted?6" caliper,and cut it down,you may be in trouble. I recently fitted a Y axis DRO to my mill and needed to cut it down in length,seemed to work OK? with a junior hacksaw. Always remove all the burrs as good engineering practice,before you need to slide the reader off the scale for any reason, I chose not
to?separate?the reader from the scale.Maybe the rough edges could cause a scarring effect when sliding the reader off. Just guessing,I am sure we have better experts in the group to chip in,Andy Franks knows my limited electronics knowledge. But I do now know what a LMB is attached to my?satellite?dish,it fell off during a storm,my wife said John we have no picture. Simple fix,I got the local TV repair man out,paid him,job done. I did keep the broken bracket and I will make a standby one in?aluminium,he replaced the broken bracket/clamp made in plastic with another made in plastic. Not a
good idea in Spain with summer temps up to plus 42 C,winter temps down to 0 C.Expecting again severe winds tonight. lets see if the plastic bracket stands the brunt. Best regards John L Spain.
From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch wrote:
From: Don Leitch
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
?
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <> wrote:
?
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
?
From: [] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
?
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons.
I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from?
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Available as a free download from google books here: ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Prager wrote:
>
> I would like a copy if possible. No rush.
>
> Bruce
>
> From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 8:37 PM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
> Mike I would be very interested Thanks
>
> Mike@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 PM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
>
> The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold true today.
> The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no charge.
> I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
>
> Michael - USA
> Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
>
> Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done with aluminum.
>
> Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
>
|
I Agree with Jerry.
Some servos I ordered got delayed (my fault) and last week was too
late to get them going before the new year holdays.
So they will leave about the 23rd.
Fair enough..
I exchange good products and good pricing and good shipping costs
for a variable human interface (these days 95% pretty good).
In the 1990s I was the purchaser for many years for containerloads
of pc stuff.
Never got stiffed, once.
Never got exactly what I wanted, when I wanted, either.
China will make and sell anything you want, and they make a lot of
good stuff.
They will also sell you crap stuff, if you want.
You just need to buy the good stuff..
I am now waiting for some electronic mics I expect to be just as
good as the Mitutoyos at work, only 80-90 each instead of 500-600�.
And some DROs,
and so on..
BUT 90 is for the good stuff. The cheapest ones at 30 are not gonna
be as good.
Part of a variety of providers is a variety of qualities, prices and
suppliers.
---
For a current customer project I need some high current solid state
relays.? In the USA a 40 Amp relay is around $47 each plus
shipping.? I ordered ten of them from the factory* and the total
WITH FedEx Priority shipping is about $75.
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One thing you have to watch for is holidays, they tend to
shut everything down for major holidays.? In theory they got
my package out before leaving for New Years...I have a FedEx
tracking number and hope FedEx in China doesn't shut down
until after the box has left the country.
|
Re: Boring bar setup question
I think it would work fine.
It?s neither rocket science nor too hard,
Just some positive rake and thats it.
On 03/02/2013 19:59, Ryan Hodges wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Thanks!
Do you think a "P" insert (11°) would help? It's only 6°
but better than the 2 I have now.
cnc sales wrote:
|
Re: Boring bar setup question
I have never had problems boring or
cutting alu with any of 3 different insert types, from various
manufacturers in various sizes.
Alu is easy, ime.
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?
Hello Ryan.
You did not mention if
this was a through hole that you have problems with.
If it is a blind hole,a
boring bar with a flood coolant hole may work,to wash
out the chips.
I agree with the comments
about rake angles.
IMO carbide for cutting?aluminium
never seems to work well.the chips tend to stick to the
tip even with WD 40 as a cutting lubricant.
Try using a home made boring bar with a HSS
tool bit.,and or a D bit drill made out of 3/4 " drill
rod.
Just for interest,how did you get the hole
roughed out in the first place?
If a through hole have you thought about
boring from both ends,skimming the outside diameter
and using a soft jaws in a 3 jaw chuck,
or a 4 jaw chuck, using a Dial indicator to
get the concentricity when boring from the other end.
John L
Spain.
|
pdf on how to operate a lathe
It would be greatly appreciated.. thanks for your time and effort.
Ray?
pskyhawk @yahoo.com
|
Motor control boards in older 7x10 lathes
Does anyone in the group own a older machine that has a remote mounted (on the headstock) Mosfet ? If so what is the brand name on the machine ? I'd like to pin down what years this type of board was used, thanks !
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
On 02/05/2013 05:02 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
A constructive
criticism:
Bolt holes should be drilled with clearance so 0.06 mm
miss alignment will not matter, Bolts should not be used
for registration, this should be done with locating dowels
|
_
While I understand the need for accuracy in holes at times, I do use
dowel pins when things count.? Clamp the parts together and drill +
ream both at once.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: Which lube do you use
On 02/04/2013 10:01 PM, John Bernoth wrote:
Hi all,
Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted
1:5 with Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be
diluted for recirculation systems.) on my mini mill and
sometimes for finishing cuts on the lathe. Only time I use it
neat is for tapping. Works for me and cuts costs a tad.
John B
I started using more WD-40 for cleaning here when I found that
locally WD-40 in a gallon is about the same price as a gallon of
kerosene (paraffin).? So, might as well use a solvent that leaves an
oil-ish film.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: Which lube do you use
On 2/5/2013 10:14 AM, gerry waclawiak
wrote:
WD40 is a pretty rubbish
lubricant. . .
Gerry, you got that
right.??? It's formula is 50% mineral spirits (paint thinner) and
about 10% light machine oil.??? It was never intended to be a
lubricant.??? It was created to waterproof ignition cables and the WD
stands for Water Dispersant.
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Hi Colin,
the small Dremel and clone mini-drills are a good size to compliment the mini-mill and they have a circular mounting collar so it is relatively easy to knock together a mount to fit into the tool post.
As Mark mentioned it is VITAL that you clean up thoroughly and relube after EVERY grinding session, any grinding dust will do your lathe no good at all. The dust also travels so covering other tools and machinery is a good idea too.
I normally clean and relube the lathe and mill after every machining session, they are small enough to do quickly and it prevents any risk of staining.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: colinmeister@... Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 06:17:16 -0800 Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
What tool post grinder do you use on your mini lathe?? Who supplies them and how much do they cost?
?Colin.
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Show quoted text
From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013, 8:41
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
As far as cutting oils attacking the cast iron;
Water based oils will,if the concentration is too weak.
I use a mist unit for tool post grinding.
When I am finished grinding on my lathe,I wipe the lathe down with a towel, blow any moisture out from under the carriage,cross slide,etc., and oil it.
Sulpher based oils will sometimes stain the cast iron,but a scotch brite pad,will shine it back up.
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, gerry waclawiak wrote:
From: gerry waclawiak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 10:34 AM
?
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot
cheaper and will last
forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use ?
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
|
gerry waclawiak