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Hi again Nicipi (is that your preferred handle?),

It's probably within the capabilities of these machines. More readily
so at just 1" length. You'll want a reasonably rigid toolpost so I
suggest you look at the lapping job that people do to these Asian
machines to improve that area.

I'd certainly use a mandrel as Mike suggested. Depending on your
tolerances and surface finish needs you may need to use a reamer but
that seems tedious for 100 items. They aren't cheap either but at
least it's not a 1-off. OTOH, you may be happy with just drilled and
bored.

At that length you may be able to avoid needing the tailstock and
centres. You're inside the usual 3 diameters rule of thumb BUT you're
going pretty thin walled and can't afford too much flex. You'll soon
figure out if the extra messing about with the T/S is worth it.

Something to note. 3-jaw chucks are not the most precise. Their design
is necessarily a compromise. Re-read Mike's suggested steps and you
will notice that the job is not removed from the chuck from beginning
to end. This negates the innacuracies of a 3-jaw. Your job will be
created true to spindle axis and remain that way - unless you're silly
enough to remove it and subsequently try to re-chuck it. You won't get
it back to the same axis again. The alternative is to use a 4-jaw
chuck and set up with a dial gauge. For your application I'd try to
stay with the 3-jaw. It's so much simpler to set up. I'm just making
sure you're aware of some of the hidden finnesse in Mike's method.
With planning, you should be able to nut out a 3-jaw method along the
lines Mike suggested.

John

Dear Group,
I've found a ?" drill chuck which I'd like to use in my MT2 tailstock.
The chuck has a female MT2 taper. I have tried it with a centre, which
goes in about ?" and is a nice snug fit, as it should be.

So, a drill chuck arbor is needed, MT2 for the tailstock and the same
(but shorter) to fit into the chuck. No suppliers seem to list an
arbor like that, but they do list MT2/B16 arbors. I've a vague idea
that a B16 taper is the same as the narrow end of a No. 2 Morse taper.
Is this right? I can't find specifications for "B series" tapers
anywhere.
Thanks in advance for any information.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am thinking about bying a Mini-Lath (like the one shown on
mini-lathe.com). Among many reasons, the main reason is to make a

part

that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outside
diameter of 0.437 inches and a wall thickness of 0.016 inches. I

want

to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first question

is,

by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temper

of

the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My second

question

is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of

0.625

inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to be

left

with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do this

kind

of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had a

machine

that form an "outward rolled end"?

Hi,
I think the only way of doing this is to first make a steel mandrel
of diameter slightly less than the id of the tube. The mandrel should
be made with a flange at one end and it should be accurately centre
drilled at the flanged end. The mandrel should be longer than the
tube you want to make.
Once this is made then mount the the 0.625 bar in the 3 jaw chuck. If
it is long (more than 3 times the diameter) you will need to used a
fixed steady at the far end. Now centre drill and then drill to the
required internal diameter. Remove the steady and insert the mandrel.
Support the mandrel with a live centre in the tailstock. Now you can
turn down the OD to the required diameter taking light cuts as the
wall thickness decreases. Using a mandrel in this way ensures that
the tube will be well supported during machining.
With regard to the temper of the alloy this should not change during
the machining operation but the alloy may work harden making flaring
difficult. Tyhe easiest way round this, if it is a problem, is to
anneal the tube after machining. To do this just smear the tube with
soap and heat it gently with a blow torch until the soap blackens.
Then qunch in water. The material should be very soft after the
treatment and flaring should be easy.
Kind regards
Mike
Kingsley, UK

Yes, this is essentially a thin wall tube. But I am after 1 inch
lengths in the end. And I need many - like 100. The dimensions are
very important, which is why I'm having trouble finding the tubing
that I need (McmasterCar, etc.) So my take from your concern is the
0.016 inch is not within the precision of a mini-lathe, or is not a
safe operation? Does having a short length like 1 inch seem more
reasonable to achieve this objective?

Hi,

This should do it. Hi Metalworking Professional,

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oneacmename <daniel@...> wrote:
I just missed the last free shipping promo code by 2 hours :(
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Hi,

I'm no expert on 6061 alloy but I doubt you'll be heating it
substatntially. Maybe a little work hardening.

I'm more concerned that you seem to be planning to make your own
thin walled tubing with a 16 thou wall thickness. You didn't say how
long. If it's of any length I think it will be difficult. Even a
centimetre would take some care at that wall thickness. Are you
committed to those dimensions and concepts? I assume you need more
than one if you're looking to buy a lathe to do it.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am thinking about bying a Mini-Lath (like the one shown on
mini-lathe.com). Among many reasons, the main reason is to make a

part

that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an

outside

diameter of 0.437 inches and a wall thickness of 0.016 inches. I

want

to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first

question is,

by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temper

of

the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My second

question

is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of

0.625

inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to be

left

with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do

this kind

of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had a

machine

that form an "outward rolled end"?

Hi Ian,

66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely 0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when photocopying
stuff!

Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending on
your model.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure

about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's
probably close enough).

As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or

somewhere, get the next size up.

I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was

something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.

Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a

dead circuit

board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The

only

fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is

a

creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give

me the

specification of the part. Thanks Ian






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Hi Vikki,

Don't feel too bad about that. A while back I made a similar blunder.

I knew cast iron had a rather high carbon content (~5% from memory)
but had never machined it before. So I mounted up my brand new face
plate to give it an initial facing cut - to true it. Wanting a
decent finish I kept up a goodly supply of WD40 aerosol. On a 160mm
disk it flicked everywhere. I had a nice line up the splash guard,
up the wall behind, fell short of the ceiling, down the driver's
door on my wife's car, across the floor and up my shirt. It took
some cleaning up.

So there are at least two of us who will remember not to lubricate
cast iron next time!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

On Thursday 29 March 2007 17:51, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Vikki,
Well done.

Thanks!

Just one point; your annotations make reference to cutting oil.
Traditionally cast iron has been cut dry because it contains

carbon

particles which cause the chips to fracture into small

particles. You

will have observed that the chips form a paste with the cutting

fluid

very much like a grinding paste, this is exactly what it is and

it is

not good for your tools.

I was not aware of that. Yes, it was a goopy mess :-(.

I understand, but haven't seen, that production machining of cast
iron uses an air blast to cool the tool and to remove the chips.
Once you get through the crust cast iron is great to machine

even if

it is dusty.

Unfortunately I am not going to be blowing anything around here,

looking

forward to moving to someplace where I can have a real shop rather

than

a tarp covered (when working) spare bedroom in the apartment.

I learned something today, thank you Sir!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"You know your country is dying when you have to make a

distinction

between what is moral and ethical and what is legal." jgd@...

I had just been about to say that Uncle Rabid was the man to help out and he's beaten me to it.
Can't ask foranything more really!

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "Jim RabidWolf" <unclerabid@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 17:34:09 -0600

Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "ftr1d" <ian.fletcher@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram


Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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John wrote......When you click on a message to view it, there are always Reply/Forward buttons just above and to the left of the text. If the message you open is one you wrote then there will be Reply/Forward/Delete buttons
-- you can delete your own posts........

Many thanks and will do !
Ellis

Hi Ian,

On Thursday 29 March 2007 17:51, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Vikki,
Well done.

Thanks!

Just one point; your annotations make reference to cutting oil.
Traditionally cast iron has been cut dry because it contains carbon
particles which cause the chips to fracture into small particles. You
will have observed that the chips form a paste with the cutting fluid
very much like a grinding paste, this is exactly what it is and it is
not good for your tools.

I was not aware of that. Yes, it was a goopy mess :-(.

I understand, but haven't seen, that production machining of cast
iron uses an air blast to cool the tool and to remove the chips.
Once you get through the crust cast iron is great to machine even if
it is dusty.

Unfortunately I am not going to be blowing anything around here, looking
forward to moving to someplace where I can have a real shop rather than
a tarp covered (when working) spare bedroom in the apartment.

I learned something today, thank you Sir!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"You know your country is dying when you have to make a distinction
between what is moral and ethical and what is legal." jgd@...

On Friday 30 March 2007 06:47, Ed wrote:

I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.

Of course,
R - means Ohm
k - means kilo Ohms (1 000 ohms)
M - means mega Ohms (1 000 000 ohms)

and because dot point is very small -:) this multipliers is used as dot point

1R0 - 1.0 Ohm
1k0 - 1.0 kilo Ohm - 1 000 Ohm
R68 - 0.68 Ohm

!!! WARNING !!!
R may be used also as numbering on schematics eg. R33 - resistor number 33
numbering may be also printed on PCB, but not on components in this case
resistors.

New way of create value numbers is value folloved multiplier
If you see in resistor eg. 332 it's 33 * 10^2 = 3k3 (= 33 plus two zero),
this is typical for SMD resistors and resistors marked by color code

Radek

I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.

STANDARD PART NUMBERS FOR STANDARD RESISTANCE VALUES
Match value from "prefix" row with value from "suffix" column to
create part number.
---------------------------------------------
watts---> 5W 10W 25W 50W
prefix--> 805F-- 810F-- 825F-- 850F--
---------------------------------------------
ohms | suffix | availability (see key)
---------------------------------------------
0.005 ---R005 B B
0.010 ---R010 B B
0.025 ---R025 B B
0.1 ---R10 A A
0.3 ---R30 B C
---------------------------------------------
0.5 ---R50 B C
0.7 ---R70 C C
1.0 ---1R0 A A A A
1.5 ---1R5 C B
2.0 ---2R0 C B A A
---------------------------------------------
3.0 ---3R0 B B A A
4.0 ---4R0 C B
5.0 ---5R0 B A A B
10.0 ---10R B A A A
15.0 ---15R A B A A
---------------------------------------------
20 ---20R B A
25 ---25R B B B A
30 ---30R C C
40 ---40R C B
50 ---50R B B B A
---------------------------------------------
75 ---75R B C B A
100 ---100 B B B A
150 ---150 B B A A
200 ---200 C C B B
250 ---250 B B A B
---------------------------------------------
300 ---300 A C
400 ---400 C C
500 ---500 B C B A
750 ---750 C C A B
1,000 ---1K0 C B A B
---------------------------------------------
1,500 ---1K5 B C C A
2,000 ---2K0 B B C C
2,500 ---2K5 B B
3,000 ---3K0 C A B C
3,500 ---3K5 C C
---------------------------------------------
4,000 ---4K0 B B
4,500 ---4K5 C C
5,000 ---5K0 B B B B
6,000 ---6K0 C C
10,000 ---10K B C A B
---------------------------------------------

Hi,

I am thinking about bying a Mini-Lath (like the one shown on
mini-lathe.com). Among many reasons, the main reason is to make a part
that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outside
diameter of 0.437 inches and a wall thickness of 0.016 inches. I want
to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first question is,
by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temper of
the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My second question
is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of 0.625
inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to be left
with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do this kind
of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had a machine
that form an "outward rolled end"?

To clarify, this is done on the Yahoo Groups web page, not in your email client.

Oh, well, I was only out by a factor of 100!
A

Jim RabidWolf <unclerabid@...> wrote:
Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.

I would guess that the resistor is 0.66 ohms and is usually called
a "horsepower" resistor which calibrates the controller for the motor
size used. Jim called it right in ohms.

G'day Vikki,
Well done.
Just one point; your annotations make reference to cutting oil.
Traditionally cast iron has been cut dry because it contains carbon
particles which cause the chips to fracture into small particles. You
will have observed that the chips form a paste with the cutting fluid
very much like a grinding paste, this is exactly what it is and it is
not good for your tools.
I understand, but haven't seen, that production machining of cast iron
uses an air blast to cool the tool and to remove the chips.
Once you get through the crust cast iron is great to machine even if it
is dusty.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value). However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is, though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

Kit came in today and I got it installed. Sordid :-) details at:



For those that asked, the cam lock is not *really* in the way of the
quill lock. I suppose I could put a washer under the quill lock to
move it away some, but it doesn't look like it is really an issue at
this point.

FUN!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"The revolution will not be televised." Anon.