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G'day groupies.

If you think we have problems with repeating messages look at the hot
air engines group, one message repeated 20 times!
Just a lot of hot air??

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,

Ian--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Hi Group,

Yahoo is having a problem with posts replicating multiple times on
many or all groups. This began slowly earlier in the week but has
accelerated in the last few hours. Yahoo is aware of the problem

and

is having difficulty resolving it.

Those receiving emails of 7x12 Group posts may want to shut this

down

temporarily to avoid being inundated.

Group members may want to temporarily reduce posting new messages to
minimize the effects of the problem.

Attempts to delete the replicated posts don't seem to have much

effect

so I've given up trying to clear the replications and thus keep the
group looking normal.

With a little luck things will be back to normal shortly.

John

On Wednesday 28 March 2007 18:02, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Vikki.

"Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the
tailstock > so it doesn't shift"

Amonst being an almost full time private emgineering consultant,
Pastor of a lcoal church and an active hobbyist I could answer your
last question but it would be considered OfF Topic!
Prayer to the right God helps for me as does grovelling on the floor
in the swarf to honour the demon of clumsiness.

LOLOLOL, took me 3 minutes to stop laughing about the last line (my
roomie too) and another two minutes to get the cramps out. THAT line
goes in my quotes file.

You can probably figure that I related to that :-).

*Thanks* and take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"An elephant is a mouse built to government specifications." --Lazarus
Long

Hi Group,

Yahoo is having a problem with posts replicating multiple times on
many or all groups. This began slowly earlier in the week but has
accelerated in the last few hours. Yahoo is aware of the problem and
is having difficulty resolving it.

Those receiving emails of 7x12 Group posts may want to shut this down
temporarily to avoid being inundated.

Group members may want to temporarily reduce posting new messages to
minimize the effects of the problem.

Attempts to delete the replicated posts don't seem to have much effect
so I've given up trying to clear the replications and thus keep the
group looking normal.

With a little luck things will be back to normal shortly.

John

Aren't masonry bolts made for one time use? The ones I've used (in
concrete of all places) were made of soft metal - I wouldn't think
you'd be able to back it out. Your isn't permanent is it?
Ed

This is exactly what I used. Fortunately the masonary bolt used, is

the right diameter for mounting the gears on. Just add a plunger of
some sort and you have a simple indexing attachmeny as well !

HTH
Ellis

G'day Vikki.

"Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the
tailstock > so it doesn't shift"

Amonst being an almost full time private emgineering consultant, Pastor
of a lcoal church and an active hobbyist I could answer your last
question but it would be considered OfF Topic!
Prayer to the right God helps for me as does grovelling on the floor in
the swarf to honour the demon of clumsiness.

One good turn deserves another.
regards,
Ian

It'd be difficult to weld, since it's cast iron. Even if you had it
brazed, it'd probably warp just to demonstrate the inherent
perversity of machinery;-)

Seriously, one thing that comes to mind is your wooden test piece may
be giving some false indications. Since wood is somewhat elastic,
it'll move away from the cutting tool & spring back to its original
position if you're doing light scraping cuts. My quickie test bar is
a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, 4 nuts & 2 fender washers. Since
you're only cutting the periphery of the washers, test cuts are quick.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

roylowenthal wrote:

[ ... ]
The boring head is used to hold a short center an easily

adjustable

distance away from the lathe centerline for taper turning without
disturbing the TS adjustment. The downside is losing a couple of
inches of working length on the lathe.

Ah, I mistook boring BAR for boring head, that is a really nifty

idea to

get tapers!

I think that if I ever get that tailstock aligned I am going to

have

someone weld it together and us this idea for tapers :-) LOL!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Cthulu for President - The candidate for the voter who is tired

of

voting for the lesser of two evils." --Unknown

You'd still have to contend with backlash in the actuating screw.
I'll stick with simple direct measurement & adjustment. If nothing
else, it lets the measuring tools feel productive;-)

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Combining these ideas, an offset adjuster as detailed at LMS could
be made with a graduated scale as well as provision for a socket
wrench on the end. Say an M6x1 bolt and major graduations every 9
degrees, minor ones every 0.9 degrees if you're keen. Then you turn
a bit at each end of a test bar and mike it to determine the

current

offset, tweak the adjuster using the graduated scale and eureka! Of
course, you'de re-check with the test bar the first few times at
least...

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

Another approach to aligning the TS is to turn a test bar between
centers to measure the misalignment, then adjust the TS off the
lathe. Unlike on larger machines popping the TS off is

effortless

and it allows access to the underside locking screw. To move it
controllably, use a depth mic (or a depth base on a dial caliper)

to

measure the original position of the upper part relative to the
base. With a measuring tool involved it's easy to get it into

final

position without having to make an adjuster.

The boring head is used to hold a short center an easily

adjustable

distance away from the lathe centerline for taper turning without
disturbing the TS adjustment. The downside is losing a couple of
inches of working length on the lathe.

Looking at the scant 4mm protrusion on mine makes me a little leery
of expecting too much from it. I could see some sort of locking
device, either a removable pin or clamping a split threaded piece.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

The proponent of that is Mike Tagliari, he did it to allow

turning

long pieces with a handcrank. The only downside is having to

make

sure you don't move the nuts, changing the HS bearing preload.

Roy

And using a hand crank with a long bar poked through the middle

must

be a PITA. But a nice option when necessary. <G> Good argument for

a

big cast valve wheel!

I just checked. My spindle has a full 4mm of thread on the outside
of the locknut. That should be sufficient to attach a threaded

crank

onto which would tighten under load in the forward direction. That
begs the question of how to secure it to allow reverse. Maybe a pin
into a hole or a slot cut in the spindle end? To avoid loosening

the

spindle lock nut during removal a collet spanner could be used.

Thinking through the keyboard here. Is this the makings of a viable
crank idea?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

BTW This reminds me. When a child, the railways were redirecting the
mainline tracks across the road from my parents home. It was rush

job

during a Sunday morning "occupation". To cut the existing rail two
navies fronted up with an over size hand powered hacksaw and a

packet

of blades. The rails were 94lb/yard, so not light section by Ozzy
standards. I recall my father's incredulity at the situation. They
commenced cutting just before we went to church, they had the rails
cut through and were joining them up by the time we got back a bit
over an hour later. They had a hand power drilling machine for the
fish plate bolts as well!

Why, I didn't realise you were of THAT era! <G>

Richard, I reckon the bandsaw wins, because it incorporates a vice to hold the metal while you attack it, you can more easily see how things are going, and you can if required apply coolant/lubrication. With a hand-guided circular saw, setting up a smallish (say 4x 2x2") lump of metal so you could cut it safely would be hard to arrange.
Andy

Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@...> wrote:
Hi all, has anyone any thought about which is the better tool for cutting
metal prior to turning etc - the 6x4 bandsaw or the circular type as
exemplified by the RAGE2 Pro 355mm Multi Purpose Cut Off Saw (230v)

...which can be seen on:

ose-cut-off-saw-230/brand/evolution.

Thanks,

Richard






---------------------------------
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On Wednesday 28 March 2007 14:29, Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches,
damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to
thwart them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for
the handle. A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the
right place for tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm
enough, no troll will be able to take it away. HTH

The fur kids / Shop Cats seem to keep the trolls at bay here, have yet
to loose an allen wrench.

The 3/8" socket wrench is another story, I think they hid it from me as
a joke (my fur kids have a perverse sense of humor :).

Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the tailstock
so it doesn't shift :-). So many choices, sigh...

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
Your reality, sir, is lies and balderdash and I'm delighted to say that
I have no grasp of it whatsoever -- Baron Munchausen

G'day Rance and Richard.

The sound you hear Rance is applause for good thinking an ingenutity.

I have three cutoff saws. One a gadget with an angle grinder fixed to
it, next a freehand angle grinder and finally a hacksaw. Of the
three, the hacksaw gets the most use because it just hangs over the
bench. I like the exercise, cuting through a 20mm stainless steel bar
rhe other night only took a few minutes. Sure if I was cutting an
80mm bar I would be looking for some mechanical assistance.

BTW This reminds me. When a child, the railways were redirecting the
mainline tracks across the road from my parents home. It was rush job
during a Sunday morning "occupation". To cut the existing rail two
navies fronted up with an over size hand powered hacksaw and a packet
of blades. The rails were 94lb/yard, so not light section by Ozzy
standards. I recall my father's incredulity at the situation. They
commenced cutting just before we went to church, they had the rails
cut through and were joining them up by the time we got back a bit
over an hour later. They had a hand power drilling machine for the
fish plate bolts as well!

THIS MAY COME IN HANDY. I have found that cut-off wheels designed for
aluminium cut brass like butter, better than the general purpose
wheels.

I have also used my variable speed jig saws for cutting out shapes in
steel, brass and aluminium. (As usual I can not comment on how
techniques work on aluminum as this metal is not available in Oz
except in scrapped objects from the USA!)

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Richard, don't laugh, but ( uh, ok, go ahead and laugh. :D ) I

mounted

a couple of cabinet hinges on a couple of pieces of plywood and

made my

own cut-off saw.

Ellis,

Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better clamping forces.
Still keeping the troll stomping boots handy :-)

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/28/2007 at 10:29 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned
trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart
them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for the handle.
A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the right place for
tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm enough, no troll will be
able to take it away.
HTH
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Hi Ian,

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

Regarding the coned nut or end, I don't see any need to pin it to

the

shaft, friction is a mighty thing!

My concern was that friction has a covert relationship to the Murphy
family. It might let you tighten things, then slip when you want
things to loosen. As you say, it's hypothetical at this stage. Time
will reveal all.

John

I made a mandrel with a taper lock to hold a handwheel (9" OD, cast
iron)recycled from a discarded NordicTrac as shown here:


The groove at the end of the saw cuts makes it work much more easily.
Tapering the end isn't necessary, the movement is only a few thou so
the steel won't take a set. It takes about a half turn of the nut to
lock it and it never slips. However, the shallow taper is not
self-releasing so after turning the bolt CCW a half turn I tap the end
of the bolt with my hand - it doesn't take much but it does need that tap.

The large part of the mandrel spaces the handwheel out from the gear
cover, I often use the handwheel with the cover in place. The hole in
the cover had to be enlarged with the Dremel to pass this.

I prefer the handwheel to a crank because the gripping point is always
in the same spot. The handwheel sees a lot of use when threading. Max
RPM with it mounted is about 250 because of a modest balance problem
so I seldom use power with the wheel mounted - except I back taps out
slowly with power.

John

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for the handle. A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the right place for tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm enough, no troll will be able to take it away.
HTH
Ellis

Richard, don't laugh, but ( uh, ok, go ahead and laugh. :D ) I mounted
a couple of cabinet hinges on a couple of pieces of plywood and made my
own cut-off saw. I put a metal cutting blade in my circular saw and
viola. Works like a charm. I had an extra circular saw so I leave it
permanently mounted to the wood. One mans trash is a redneck's tool.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@...>
wrote:

Hi all, has anyone any thought about which is the better tool for

cutting

metal prior to turning etc - the 6x4 bandsaw or the circular type as
exemplified by the RAGE2 Pro 355mm Multi Purpose Cut Off Saw (230v)

...which can be seen on:

multi-purp

ose-cut-off-saw-230/brand/evolution.

Thanks,

Richard

G'day Johm

Your proposal would work, but I would make two mods as I am concerned
the shaft may be difficult to release. Firstly I would cut a groove
at the point where the hacksaw cuts end, this will focus the bending
to this point. Secondly I would have turned the end to a slight
taper, a few thou thinner at the end so that when the wedge nut is
released the expanded part would contract to under the shaft diameter.

I haven't considered the bolt but would probably use a commercial
product. My local hardware store sells a range of 8mm metric bolts up
to 150mm long, they are not high tensile but are forged ane quite
tough. Most hardware stores have a range of imperial threaded rod
available up to 1/2" diameter, I think the thread is Whitworth.
I don't see any difficulty cutting an 8mm thread as I have already
cut a 3/8 x 24 thread plus smaller metric threads successfully. I
found I could do it under power and didn't meed a crank or handwheel;
you do need to design a runout groove for the thread cutting tool
when cutting to a shoulder and have you whits about you.

Regarding the coned nut or end, I don't see any need to pin it to the
shaft, friction is a mighty thing!

Anyhow, all this is hyperthetical and for me about 3 projects away.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

I have seen bike handlebars done that way. My thoughts on such a
locking mechanism were more on a par with a masonry bolt. Slit your
close fitting shaft - even crudely with a hack saw - at every 90
degrees say. Then turn a cone shape to partially sit inside your
close fitting shaft as a spreader. Tap at 8mm for the draw bolt.
That should eliminate any misalignment during tightening. In either
case, during removal you need to loosen the 8mm bolt but NOT use it
to pull the close-fitting shaft out of the spindle as that would
tend to re-lock it.

Just a thought. Both approaches lend themselves to reversal. Turn
the 8mm bolt around and use an off-the-shelf nut on the outer end.
Key the inner end to the cone or wedge section by milling a slot or
pinning. This avoids cutting a long thread with any associated
angst. It also means both bolt & nut can be high tensile with

little

chance of ever stripping and easy replacement anyway. Or were you
figuring on cutting the 8mm thread in the lathe?

Hi all, has anyone any thought about which is the better tool for cutting
metal prior to turning etc - the 6x4 bandsaw or the circular type as
exemplified by the RAGE2 Pro 355mm Multi Purpose Cut Off Saw (230v)

...which can be seen on:

ose-cut-off-saw-230/brand/evolution.

Thanks,

Richard

Ellis,

I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will
snatch one in a heart beat. Any mod is worth the extra effort of a cam to
thwart the evil creatures. My goal is to only need an allen wrench when
initially installing a tool in a tool holder, mucking about with change
gears, or lathe disassembly (looking for lost allen wrenches :-)

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/28/2007 at 7:33 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......A carriage clamp would fit between those ears but it can
get really crowded and hard to access.........

Not if you mount it on the tailstock side of the saddle and offset the
bolt to the rear. I also used an allen bolt the same size as the tool
clamps on the toolpost and with a ball ended allen wrench it is very easy
and only one tool fits all.
HTH
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-