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Hi again Nicipi (is that your preferred handle?),

It's probably within the capabilities of these machines. More readily
so at just 1" length. You'll want a reasonably rigid toolpost so I
suggest you look at the lapping job that people do to these Asian
machines to improve that area.

I'd certainly use a mandrel as Mike suggested. Depending on your
tolerances and surface finish needs you may need to use a reamer but
that seems tedious for 100 items. They aren't cheap either but at
least it's not a 1-off. OTOH, you may be happy with just drilled and
bored.

At that length you may be able to avoid needing the tailstock and
centres. You're inside the usual 3 diameters rule of thumb BUT you're
going pretty thin walled and can't afford too much flex. You'll soon
figure out if the extra messing about with the T/S is worth it.

Something to note. 3-jaw chucks are not the most precise. Their design
is necessarily a compromise. Re-read Mike's suggested steps and you
will notice that the job is not removed from the chuck from beginning
to end. This negates the innacuracies of a 3-jaw. Your job will be
created true to spindle axis and remain that way - unless you're silly
enough to remove it and subsequently try to re-chuck it. You won't get
it back to the same axis again. The alternative is to use a 4-jaw
chuck and set up with a dial gauge. For your application I'd try to
stay with the 3-jaw. It's so much simpler to set up. I'm just making
sure you're aware of some of the hidden finnesse in Mike's method.
With planning, you should be able to nut out a 3-jaw method along the
lines Mike suggested.

John