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Re: Indicator holder - 3d printed
I must have mistakenly signed on to a group I don¡¯t belong to. I thought this was the 7x12 minilathe group.
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Locked
Re: Indicator holder - 3d printed
Here is a 3D printed part being finished?on my HF Mini Lathe.? ?My printer seems to make round parts with about 0.1 mm out-of-round.? ?This is a PLA part for a robot-dog shoulder that will have a couple 27x20x4 mm ball bearing pressed in.? ?After?printing you can machine the?plastic?at low speed and get really good results.? This fixes the problem of low precision printers.
This part looks like a casting in metal but is made of? $1.80 worth of PLA plastic.? It is very strong for its intended use and only weights about 65 grams.
Due to the suggestion on here to get a 3d printer I went ahead and got one last week.? One of the first parts I made was a much needed dial indicator holder for the mini lathe.? I had been putting off making one of metal but I don't mind using up some plastic for testing it out.
I found the cad drawings online for the body then made up the knob to tighten it down.? I'm using a metal screw and nut to hold it in place.
I'm amazed at what these 3d printers can do along with the excellent free software available to design and print.??
I may make up a few of these holders if folks are interested in one.? I'd just ask for $5 to cover shipping and the small cost in materials. I need to make a few tweaks still.? These would be made in PLA and may not last forever but then again the price is low ?
See ya.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Locked
Re: Indicator holder - 3d printed
Wrong link...
This is what I meant to send
Due to the suggestion on here to get a 3d printer I went ahead and got one last week.? One of the first parts I made was a much needed dial indicator holder for the mini lathe.? I had been putting off making one of metal but I don't mind using up some plastic for testing it out.
I found the cad drawings online for the body then made up the knob to tighten it down.? I'm using a metal screw and nut to hold it in place.
I'm amazed at what these 3d printers can do along with the excellent free software available to design and print.??
I may make up a few of these holders if folks are interested in one.? I'd just ask for $5 to cover shipping and the small cost in materials. I need to make a few tweaks still.? These would be made in PLA and may not last forever but then again the price is low ?
See ya.
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Locked
Indicator holder - 3d printed
Due to the suggestion on here to get a 3d printer I went ahead and got one last week.? One of the first parts I made was a much needed dial indicator holder for the mini lathe.? I had been putting off making one of metal but I don't mind using up some plastic for testing it out.
I found the cad drawings online for the body then made up the knob to tighten it down.? I'm using a metal screw and nut to hold it in place.
I'm amazed at what these 3d printers can do along with the excellent free software available to design and print.??
I may make up a few of these holders if folks are interested in one.? I'd just ask for $5 to cover shipping and the small cost in materials. I need to make a few tweaks still.? These would be made in PLA and may not last forever but then again the price is low ?
See ya.
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When I moved my rack I made a pilot sleeve for both the drill and tap. With the rack clamped in place I was sure to have accurate tapped holes. Paul M
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Couldn't resist injecting a bit of humor on this subject. Drawings from the Lawrence Radiation Lab, ~50 years ago!
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 9:07 PM Jeff Lott via <tall_guy_lott68= [email protected]> wrote: That was the idea. I didn't know the size of the bolt.
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 08:50 AM, Jeff Lott wrote: Try modifying the bolt for that one hole with a step/recess in a portion of the thread and turn the head undersize. I assume it is a SHCS.
?Hi Jeff. If I understand correctly, this would require making part of the SHCS narrower. I am not sure this would work because the screw that hold the rack to the lathe are only M3. So there is not much metal there to trim down. (Its possible I misunderstood your idea.) Tom
-- Don't underestimate birthdays.
It seems like the people who have the most of them live the longest....
Sent from my antique Win7 desktop
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That was the idea. I didn't know the size of the bolt.
On Friday, January 14, 2022, 01:48:42 PM PST, <thomasfkeefe@...> wrote:
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 08:50 AM, Jeff Lott wrote: Try modifying the bolt for that one hole with a step/recess in a portion of the thread and turn the head undersize. I assume it is a SHCS.
?Hi Jeff. If I understand correctly, this would require making part of the SHCS narrower. I am not sure this would work because the screw that hold the rack to the lathe are only M3. So there is not much metal there to trim down. (Its possible I misunderstood your idea.) Tom
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Tom,
I had a similar issue with my MicroMark 7x16. I had two issues contributing to the poor mesh of the rack and pinion gear. (1) I moved the rack down for a better fit as others have done. (2) The pinion gear was bad fit in the hole in the apron. I took the apron off and bored out the pinion gear hole and turned up an oilite bushing to fit the bored out hole. This removed the sloppy fit between gear shaft and ?apron bore. This made a dramatic improvement to the rack pinion mesh. The sloppy feel is gone.
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Ugh, bumped the send!?
...by working up in drill size, start with a small hole entirely in the steel, that way the larger bit will be a lot less likely to wander.
You could probably get away with it, by working up in drill
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I didn't think of the problem with positioning the new hole close to the original hole filled with JB Weld. So it sounds like I dodged a bullet there. Thanks. I plan to try the approach suggested below. Hopefully, I can get it right this time. Thanks again. Tom On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 03:30 AM, Miket_NYC wrote:
The way I?handle problems like this is to drill the hole significantly larger and tap it. Then insert a bolt that fits the tap, using JB Weld as your thread-locking compound.? Once that sets, saw off the bolt level with the surface.??
?
Now, your original hole is gone and you have new metal at the location, so you can drill and tap it in the proper place with no worries.? (If it would be difficult to saw off the bolt level with the surface, you can instead saw the top of the bolt off ahead of time and manipulate the cut place it to be level with the surface before the JB Weld sets).
?
Mike Taglieri
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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You could probably get away with it, by working up in drill
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I didn't think of the problem with positioning the new hole close to the original hole filled with JB Weld. So it sounds like I dodged a bullet there. Thanks. I plan to try the approach suggested below. Hopefully, I can get it right this time. Thanks again. Tom On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 03:30 AM, Miket_NYC wrote:
The way I?handle problems like this is to drill the hole significantly larger and tap it. Then insert a bolt that fits the tap, using JB Weld as your thread-locking compound.? Once that sets, saw off the bolt level with the surface.??
?
Now, your original hole is gone and you have new metal at the location, so you can drill and tap it in the proper place with no worries.? (If it would be difficult to saw off the bolt level with the surface, you can instead saw the top of the bolt off ahead of time and manipulate the cut place it to be level with the surface before the JB Weld sets).
?
Mike Taglieri
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I didn't think of the problem with positioning the new hole close to the original
hole filled with JB Weld. So it sounds like I dodged a bullet there. Thanks.
I plan to try the approach suggested below. Hopefully, I can get it right this time. Thanks again.
Tom
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 03:30 AM, Miket_NYC wrote:
The way I?handle problems like this is to drill the hole significantly larger and tap it. Then insert a bolt that fits the tap, using JB Weld as your thread-locking compound.? Once that sets, saw off the bolt level with the surface.??
?
Now, your original hole is gone and you have new metal at the location, so you can drill and tap it in the proper place with no worries.? (If it would be difficult to saw off the bolt level with the surface, you can instead saw the top of the bolt off ahead of time and manipulate the cut place it to be level with the surface before the JB Weld sets).
?
Mike Taglieri
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On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 08:50 AM, Jeff Lott wrote:
Try modifying the bolt for that one hole with a step/recess in a portion of the thread and turn the head undersize. I assume it is a SHCS.
?Hi Jeff. If I understand correctly, this would require making part of the SHCS narrower. I am not sure this would work because the screw that hold the rack to the lathe are only M3. So there is not much metal there to trim down. (Its possible I misunderstood your idea.) Tom
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??? ??? Just watched this last night . It may work for your
problem .
??? ???
??? ??? animal
On 1/14/2022 2:21 AM, drmico60 via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Tom,
I have tried your suggestion 3 and the problem is that the drill
cuts the epoxy much faster than the steel and this forces the
drill bit to follow the original hole. The best way I have found
is to fill the holes with some steel screw threaded bar leaving a
little protruding. Put some epoxy on the screw thread when fitting
the screw. Allow the epoxy to set and then file the steel flush
with the surface. Centre punch the new hole position and re drill
the hole.
Mike
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1.? ?Find and turn a piece of cast iron to fit the existing thread in the lathe bed. Epoxy or loctite in place and drill and tap a new hole aligned with the rack. DO NOT try this by filling the thread with epoxy or steel, either one is too different from the cast iron to give a well aligned result. 2.? ?Fill and hammer the hole in the rack shut with a similar material. Drill new hole to line up with thread in bed casting. 3.? ?Leave both holes as they are and drill and tap a new hole 10 mm to one side, into rack and bed. Tap as needed and screw snug.
My lathe had pretty poor mesh between the handwheel gear and the rack.
To address the problem I slid the rack about 1/2 inch to one side and moved the
rack down. Everything worked out pretty well. However, one hole is a bit too
high. I am thinking of a couple of ways to fix the problem.
1. Start over and drill/tap all of the holes again. Hoping not to do this, as its not
? ? clear I will succeed the second time.
2. Elongate the through hole in the rack so that the screw will go in without distorting the
? ? rack. The hole is off by about .030" and I believe there is probably enough metal
? ? above the hole in the rack to fit. I am not sure what the rack is made of. It seems like
? ? steel which I don't think is hardened. But I don't really like the idea of changing the?
? ? rack this way.
3. Fill the hole with JB Weld or some other sort of epoxy-like filler and then re-drill and?
? ? tap. I assume this wouldn't be as strong as drilling the holes in new locations (i.e., #1 above)
? ? but I don't think this will be a concern. I haven't tried moving holes this way before so I am
? ? not sure it will be easy to move the holes a small amount like this.
I would like to get some advice on what is the best way to correct this. Thanks.
Tom
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Try modifying the bolt for that one hole with a step/recess in a portion of the thread and turn the head undersize. I assume it is a SHCS.
On Friday, January 14, 2022, 03:30:38 AM PST, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
The way I?handle problems like this is to drill the hole significantly larger and tap it. Then insert a bolt that fits the tap, using JB Weld as your thread-locking compound.? Once that sets, saw off the bolt level with the surface.??
Now, your original hole is gone and you have new metal at the location, so you can drill and tap it in the proper place with no worries.? (If it would be difficult to saw off the bolt level with the surface, you can instead saw the top of the bolt off ahead of time and manipulate the cut place it to be level with the surface before the JB Weld sets).
Mike Taglieri
My lathe had pretty poor mesh between the handwheel gear and the rack.
To address the problem I slid the rack about 1/2 inch to one side and moved the
rack down. Everything worked out pretty well. However, one hole is a bit too
high. I am thinking of a couple of ways to fix the problem.
1. Start over and drill/tap all of the holes again. Hoping not to do this, as its not
? ? clear I will succeed the second time.
2. Elongate the through hole in the rack so that the screw will go in without distorting the
? ? rack. The hole is off by about .030" and I believe there is probably enough metal
? ? above the hole in the rack to fit. I am not sure what the rack is made of. It seems like
? ? steel which I don't think is hardened. But I don't really like the idea of changing the?
? ? rack this way.
3. Fill the hole with JB Weld or some other sort of epoxy-like filler and then re-drill and?
? ? tap. I assume this wouldn't be as strong as drilling the holes in new locations (i.e., #1 above)
? ? but I don't think this will be a concern. I haven't tried moving holes this way before so I am
? ? not sure it will be easy to move the holes a small amount like this.
I would like to get some advice on what is the best way to correct this. Thanks.
Tom
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The way I?handle problems like this is to drill the hole significantly larger and tap it. Then insert a bolt that fits the tap, using JB Weld as your thread-locking compound.? Once that sets, saw off the bolt level with the surface.??
Now, your original hole is gone and you have new metal at the location, so you can drill and tap it in the proper place with no worries.? (If it would be difficult to saw off the bolt level with the surface, you can instead saw the top of the bolt off ahead of time and manipulate the cut place it to be level with the surface before the JB Weld sets).
Mike Taglieri
My lathe had pretty poor mesh between the handwheel gear and the rack.
To address the problem I slid the rack about 1/2 inch to one side and moved the
rack down. Everything worked out pretty well. However, one hole is a bit too
high. I am thinking of a couple of ways to fix the problem.
1. Start over and drill/tap all of the holes again. Hoping not to do this, as its not
? ? clear I will succeed the second time.
2. Elongate the through hole in the rack so that the screw will go in without distorting the
? ? rack. The hole is off by about .030" and I believe there is probably enough metal
? ? above the hole in the rack to fit. I am not sure what the rack is made of. It seems like
? ? steel which I don't think is hardened. But I don't really like the idea of changing the?
? ? rack this way.
3. Fill the hole with JB Weld or some other sort of epoxy-like filler and then re-drill and?
? ? tap. I assume this wouldn't be as strong as drilling the holes in new locations (i.e., #1 above)
? ? but I don't think this will be a concern. I haven't tried moving holes this way before so I am
? ? not sure it will be easy to move the holes a small amount like this.
I would like to get some advice on what is the best way to correct this. Thanks.
Tom
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Hi Tom,
I have tried your suggestion 3 and the problem is that the drill cuts the epoxy much faster than the steel and this forces the drill bit to follow the original hole. The best way I have found is to fill the holes with some steel screw threaded bar leaving a little protruding. Put some epoxy on the screw thread when fitting the screw. Allow the epoxy to set and then file the steel flush with the surface. Centre punch the new hole position and re drill the hole.
Mike
|
On Thu, 13 Jan 2022, thomasfkeefe@... wrote: My lathe had pretty poor mesh between the handwheel gear and the rack.
To address the problem I slid the rack about 1/2 inch to one side and moved the
rack down. Everything worked out pretty well. However, one hole is a bit too
high. I am thinking of a couple of ways to fix the problem.
1. Start over and drill/tap all of the holes again. Hoping not to do this, as its not
clear I will succeed the second time.
2. Elongate the through hole in the rack so that the screw will go in without distorting the
rack. The hole is off by about .030" and I believe there is probably enough metal
above the hole in the rack to fit. I am not sure what the rack is made of. It seems like
steel which I don't think is hardened. But I don't really like the idea of changing the
rack this way.
3. Fill the hole with JB Weld or some other sort of epoxy-like filler and then re-drill and
tap. I assume this wouldn't be as strong as drilling the holes in new locations (i.e., #1 above)
but I don't think this will be a concern. I haven't tried moving holes this way before so I am
not sure it will be easy to move the holes a small amount like this.
I would like to get some advice on what is the best way to correct this. Thanks.
Tom _._,_._,_
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My lathe had pretty poor mesh between the handwheel gear and the rack.
To address the problem I slid the rack about 1/2 inch to one side and moved the
rack down. Everything worked out pretty well. However, one hole is a bit too
high. I am thinking of a couple of ways to fix the problem.
1. Start over and drill/tap all of the holes again. Hoping not to do this, as its not
? ? clear I will succeed the second time.
2. Elongate the through hole in the rack so that the screw will go in without distorting the
? ? rack. The hole is off by about .030" and I believe there is probably enough metal
? ? above the hole in the rack to fit. I am not sure what the rack is made of. It seems like
? ? steel which I don't think is hardened. But I don't really like the idea of changing the?
? ? rack this way.
3. Fill the hole with JB Weld or some other sort of epoxy-like filler and then re-drill and?
? ? tap. I assume this wouldn't be as strong as drilling the holes in new locations (i.e., #1 above)
? ? but I don't think this will be a concern. I haven't tried moving holes this way before so I am
? ? not sure it will be easy to move the holes a small amount like this.
I would like to get some advice on what is the best way to correct this. Thanks.
Tom
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Re: Steering wheel adapter
??? ?? ??? Alot of us have that " tool acquiring? syndrome "
though I'm getting better . I'm trying to only pick up something
that I don't already have . Yea , I'm not real good at it yet .
animal
On 1/11/2022 6:09 PM, Chad Rebuck
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So the short answer is that I have a problem buying
stuff I don't necessarily need.? The good thing is I don't spend
much money on what I buy so I often sell for way more because I
have patience and room to store the items.??
I bought a few lathes over the past 5 years or so whenever
I found what I thought was a good deal.? I tend to buy various
stuff, fix them as needed, then?sell for a small?profit
hopefully.? I haven't done much machining of larger parts so
the mini lathe has been great.? I do want to build up a
workbench for the Craftsman but have not gotten around to
doing so yet so it has been on the floor of my garage next to
an old southbend?lathe from the 1940s I think.? It is not the
more common and popular southbend models I see folks using
on?youtube.? So I sort of have a problem with buying machine
tools when I find deals on them :)? I will often sell off some
of the pieces, tool boxes, tooling, just because I don't need
it all.? I plan to keep using the mini lathe and the Craftsman
may move back on to the floor for a while.??
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at
8:05 PM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? So , out of curiosity why don't you use the
Craftsman ? Real estate ?
??? animal
On 1/11/2022 10:22 AM, Chad Rebuck wrote:
I finished up the lathe machine work
last night.?? Thank you for the input from those
who provided it?
Unfortunately I didn't do any of the
machining on the mini lathe, but it was a good
excuse to get the old craftsman lathe off the
floor and in use.? I had not really used it
before this past week but it worked out well.? I
was able to fit different turning and boring
tools into the lantern style holder with little
hassle.? I did have to replace the headstock
vbelt with a linked vbelt from harbor freight,
which saved me a good bit of time as I avoided
having to disassemble the headstock.? The
parting was easy after switching to a very low
speed and reducing the rake of the parting tool
a good amount.? The lathe has pulleys/belts/back
gears which allow adjustment so the ac motor
runs at full speed (its not a variable speed
setup) yet the spindle rpm can be adjusted down
to a very slow crawl.? When I was running it
without back gears engaged the speed was higher
of course and the parting tended to chatter or
just not go as smoothly.? WIth the lowest speeds
the back gears allowed I was able to part it
without much effort.? Frequent squirts of wd40
help keep it cutting smoothly and clearing the
chips.? I'm not sure my mini lathe would have
been able to do the slow speed with the torque
needed - will have to try next time around.
My friend?is bringing the steering wheel
over sometime soon so I can drill and tap the
mounting holes on one side at least.? I'm not
sure how he will want to handle the mounting
of the other end to the car though I may help
with that too.
Same link as before has been updated with
more pictures...??
One of these dI'll probably make up an
adapter plate so I can attach my existing 4"
chuck to the mini lathe I most often use.? If
I had done that already I could have attempted
this all on the mini lathe.
I didn't part it off or remove
it to cut with the saw yet.? I did the boring
taking mostly light cuts since it is only
mounted using the outside 3 jaws and they are
quite shallow jaws.? I was thinking of
removing and cutting to length before boring
so I could mount it more solidly in a 4 jaw
using the inside jaws.? The part didn't fly
off the chuck nor did it shift any detectable
amount. Next is to part it or saw it the
remaining .5 inch of depth then finish facing
the other end.? I didn't try to finish to
length by parting.? The parting was more for
practice leaving some material to finish to
the final dimension with a turning tool.
Same link as before...??
On Sat, Jan
8, 2022, 5:42 AM paul mcclintic via
<cannontandem= [email protected]>
wrote:
I would
have left the parting for last when you had
all the boring done. Does the hole still go
clear through since you could grip the part
on the outside so the parting doesn't need
to be so deep? Are you making the larger
section of hole at what is the tailstock end
so there is still a good place to hold the
material as it now sits? Just after I sent
my last post I realized it's possible you
could pass the bolts through the mounting
parts and have nuts in the space between the
flanges eliminating the need for any tapping
and a little less thickness for the flanges.
Paul M.
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OldToolmaker
