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Hi Rick, If you're in demolition mode (as opposed to repair mode) then you won't be too concerned about possible damage to the capacitor from a dramatically fast discharge. In that case, you can skip

That thinking sounds good to me. Another thing that can bite you when boring is not having enough tool relief or having the tool shank or holder rub on the part. Boring requires extra attention to

Yep, it's good and easy to read. However, its tabulated simplicity is not as complete as it could be. I certainly have unlisted inserts. OTOH, Machinery's Handbook gives the breakdown of the numeric

Hi Gerry, Ah, now that makes sense. Having not tried any boring yet, but having recently bought a set of 3/8" carbide boring tools to try, I've been following this discussion to learn the issues. Can

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=586&relatedbookgroup=Lubrication John writes: There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only load bearing on that surface is

I just got my new Homier 7x12. I removed the hex nut on the reversed cross slide handle, but I can't get it off. Is there a trick? I don't want to apply too much force and damage the machine. Thanks,

That really IS good! Thanks for the link!

I've been sharing my drill press chuck with my lathe. Besides always being on the wrong tool, and the key lost somewhere between the two, this chuck is off center at least .010". Fortunately, Busy Bee

Thanks to all who replied. For the benefit of all--I've been using the compound screw. That appears to be the problem. This the way you learn! Gerry <ckinzer@...> wrote: would be a concern. Otherwise

If the problem is that the hole is bell mouthed, then springing would be a concern. Otherwise the tool is, for some reason, simply cutting a taper. This same thing came up on one of the minilathe

Found it. It's VERY good. Here are a couple of others which seem to have the same same key information and look the same, but don't have the Valenite brand information that is in the MSC chart.

The springing is going to have a lot to do with the boring bar length vs diameter (or cross section if its not round). How deep is the hole you are boring, how long is the boring bar, and what size is

Correction, the name of the file is: ANSI_Indexable_Insert_Info_MSC555.pdf Paul <paul_probus@...> wrote: should Files

I am working my way through my first project and and have been boring an aluminum engine cylinder. The resulting hole is smaller (0.010+) at the tailstock end. I've read about boring bar "springing"

Have a look here: http://repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm#micsafdc Like the article says, their should be a bleeder on the capacitor to render it safe, but it can fail and there's no way for most to

I got a free microwave and want to take it apart but need to be sure i do it safely. Have heard about the residual build up of voltage in the capacitor. Can someone give me a procedure to properly

Paul, Don't think any of us can find the file. What's the Yahoo Group name? Rance

"Document not found" Brewster <paul_probus@...> wrote: <paul_probus@> to

They're welcome to it. I leached it from MSC's website, originally. Paul section? :) here, other the

If you're a member, it should bring you right to the link, like it did for me (I just tried it right before posting). For non-members it should take people to the group's homepage and inform them that