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At the risk of continuing the debate, here is the finished product. I've put the rudder blade in a vice and leant hard on the tiller to test it. The aluminium rudder head bends before anything else and there's no movement in the tiller hinge. Having said that it won't have any strength if raised so will need to be down for sailing. The rudder up and down lines need to be released to raise the tiller but it gives full access to the box. Get Outlook for Android

Hi all, Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box. Any help much appreciated. Jonathan Daniel

For anyone that's interested or considering the same thing, here's progress and pictures so far on the centre main conversion. I'm still waiting for the ratchet block to arrive which is why it's missing here! At the stern I've gone for a fixed bridle, held in place with stoppers in fairleads. These are attached to the existing traveller adjustment lines so I can shorten the bridle from either side if needed. Getting the nuts under where the traveller was is fun! I'm using a Selden Deck 38 jammer as this was one of only two I could find (other a Ronstan RF7) where the cleat height is adjustable without using wedges. I'm going to use another boom slide to attach the rear block on the boom, and move it in 6 inches, attaching the end of the sheet at the very end still. Wayfarer people assure me that this prevents twisting. And I need to add some protection to the end of the boom in case it drops, or alternatively use a topping lift. Just need to test it now! Jonathan Daniel, W910.

Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block. I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to... As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated. Jonathan Daniel

When beating upwind my mast moves about in the jaws at deck level. Makes a pretty significant creaking. There is rope around the mast and what looks like asbestos (eek) in the jaws. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? Also, where the feet of the tabernacle screw into the hull water leaks into the air tanks. I think I just need to do some fibreglass work but it’s fiddly as I need to fill and re drill I think. Any comments or suggestions most appreciated. Wanderer mark 2 I think? Thanks James On 2 Aug 2021, at 19:19, eleanor mehew via groups.io <eleanormehew@...> wrote: ? Hello John Thank you for the reply. The dip in the boom was fairly pronounced until we altered the shrouds. It was catching my head regularly when tacking, so I think it was a bit lower than it should have been. Sadly we don't have any other wanderers at our club so have none to compare ours to. Eleanor On Mon, Aug 2, 2021 at 5:47 PM John Sharples 1646 <johnsharples10@...> wrote: Hi Eleanor I too have a Hartley Wanderer and mine also is lower at the aft end. I’ve noticed this on older boats too so am thinking it is probably normal. John (1646) On Mon, 2 Aug 2021 at 12:11, <eleanormehew@...> wrote: I have a 2014 Hartley Wanderer ( sail no 1741) and am trying to resolve an irritation in that my boom is not level but dipping towards the aft of the boat. We have placed the rear of the mast foot at the end of the mast step, up against a fitted nut and bolt. (Though I note there is another hole which is available.) The tabernacle pin is removed. We have replaced the ‘standard’ stay adjusters (Allen A4372, seehttps://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/product/a4372-stay-adjuster/ ) with vernier adjusters (Allen A4272) and pressed rigging links (Allen A4138) so as to give a longer adjustment range. We have not measured the length of the shrouds. The Selden mast spreaders are 430mm long but the spreader deflection is 195mm rather than the 165mm specified by Selden for a Wanderer’s set up or 178mm suggested in WCOA technical data athttps://www.wanderer.org.uk/technical/rig-set-up-and-tuning/ . (As an aside, the Selden Wanderer’s data sheet does not seem to be available anymore.) We did not measure the mast prebend. Our mast was rigged with the jib reefing line below the main sail reefing line. We found that this did not give us enough room to achieve a reasonable tension in the shrouds so we reversed them. The Cunningham is not fitted. So having tensioned up the shrouds to 280 lbs via the jib (checked with a borrowed Loos PT-1M), the mast rake is 22 feet and 6 inches (the closest we have managed to get it). But the boom is nowhere near horizontal and the kicker seems to make little impact on the boom’s levelness. So two questions. Does the spreader deflection make a difference? Given it is slightly larger than specified, which in turn means the main sail hits the end of the spreader sooner (at a smaller angle), thus limiting the broad reach set up without the impacting on the shape of the sail. What else can one do to adjust the level of the boom? thank you Eleanor -- John 1646 The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.

Hi All My launch trolley has got a but rusty in places so I have painted it with 2 coats of Galvafroid followed by Hammerite special metals primer and top coat of Hammerite. I’ll also put a coating of Waxoyl inside the hollow tubes as well as outside, so I hope it will last a few more years. My concern is that when I pull the boat/trolley on/off the road trailer each time I go for a sail, the paint on the trolley will be damaged by rolling it over the roller on the trailer. I was thinking of trying to spray a “rubbery” coating (if there is such a thing) on the roller to minimise abrasion of the paint – any thoughts as to whether this will actually be a problem, or suggestions what might be effective to coat the roller? Thanks John W1428 Latitude

Hello, In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards. I have attached a photo. Does anybody know what kind of wood this is? I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible. My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff. Does that sound sensible? There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears. I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards. I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe. A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products. What do you think would be best? Thanks! Dave

The hull of W537 is in really good condition if you look at the outside. Inside, however, has areas where it looks like the gelcoat is flaking off. It seems to me that this is cosmetic but I am not sure. See the photo below: I was planning to use a pressure washer to clean up the inside and remove as much of the flaking stuff as possible. My question is, how much should I remove and what should I replace it with? Thanks! Dave

Hi, The weekend project is to work on the inside of the hull of W537. The first question is there seems to be this grey edging around the sharp edges of the hull. See the photo: As you can see, this edging is knackered and ugly. My question is what do I replace it with or should I just take it off and round off the GRP? If you want to see more hi-res images, they can be found here: https://nexchex.co.uk/index.php/s/6jbcRDXiPpxn2ea I'll ask other questions in different messages. Thanks! Dave