Re: Tiller length
Thanks both. I'm going to try the hinged tiller and see what happens. I'll keep the old tiller in case I sell, but with the amount of work done on the boat I hope to keep it for a bit! Get Outlook for
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Jonathan Daniel
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#107
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Re: Tiller length
Hi Putting a hinge in the tiller or hatch in the top of the locker will put the boat out of class. If you are only cruising that does not matter, but it could affect the value when you want to sell
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Mike Bennett
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#106
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Re: Tiller length
Hi A friend of mine has put a hatch in the top of the locker for very easy access without lifting the lid. John 1646
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John Sharples 1646
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#105
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Re: Tiller length
Hi Doug, there's absolutely no way to open the box with the tiller in place, photo attached. Tiller slides into the rudder head and goes over the box lid. Should have also mentioned, another reason
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Jonathan Daniel
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#104
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Re: Tiller length
Hello Jonathan I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though. If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which
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Douglas Duthie
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#103
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Re: Tiller length
Perfect, thank you. Jonathan Daniel
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Jonathan Daniel
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#102
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Re: Tiller length
W172 has a 43¡± tiller and the track is 6¡±. I didn¡¯t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed
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chriscallender@...
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#101
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Tiller length
Hi all, Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at
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Jonathan Daniel
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#100
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Centre mainsheet
For anyone that's interested or considering the same thing, here's progress and pictures so far on the centre main conversion. I'm still waiting for the ratchet block to arrive which is why it's
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Jonathan Daniel
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#99
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Re: Centre mainsheet
I use a bridle on my Wanderer. I did not remove the traveler though, just tied it to one side. I ran the bridle through the sheaves at each end of the traveller and into the original traveller
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Mike Bennett
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#98
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Re: Centre mainsheet
Don't remove the traveller. Attatch lacing eyes on each side of traveller for bridle. [email protected]> wrote:
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Douglas Duthie
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#97
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Re: Centre mainsheet
Boom will hit the boat when dropped if remove traveller [email protected]> wrote:
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Douglas Duthie
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#96
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Re: Centre mainsheet
Hi Daniel I haven't chipped in to this conversation before, mainly because I answered an almost identical question a few months ago via editor@... for someone called George, so I thought
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Derrick Nash
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#95
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Centre mainsheet
Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block. I'm now wondering
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Jonathan Daniel
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#94
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Re: Centre mainsheet
Jonathan, I would strongly recommend you contact Ian Porter 01243 377522 . Fitting the block to the aft section of the centreboard case is a task for the sort of seasoned professional Ian is. He now
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Philip Meadowcroft
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#93
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Re: Centre mainsheet
Hi Jonathan. I investigated this a few years ago. Hartleys sell a fibre glass turret that screws and binds into the back of the case tinted to the colour of your boat. They sell all the other stuff
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Mark Allinson
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#92
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Centre mainsheet
I'm planning to convert my Wanderer (910) to centre mainsheet over the winter. The kids are getting into sailing it but struggle with the mainsheet coming over the tiller. So some questions, any help
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Jonathan Daniel
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#91
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Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Hi Thickened epoxy.Would advise against using gel coat as this will crack when drilled into. Drill the hole slightly smaller than the drill width. Micro fibres will stiffen up the epoxy and will run
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Douglas Duthie
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#90
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Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Many thanks Martin, most appreciated. J
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Roff, James
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#89
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Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Hi James, I haven't tried this, but I'd probably avoid gelcoat as it tends to be very brittle. I'd use epoxy thickened with microfibres or low density filler, then re-redrill. I'd seal the screws with
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Martin
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#88
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