Hi all, has anyone fitted a Hartley Wanderer GRP centreboard to an Anglo Marine Wanderer and, if so, was it OK or were there any issues?
Any feedback appreciated, thanks.?
Adrian
W1513
|
Can anybody advise me to the size of rivets that hold the pulley towards the top of the mast that the jib sheet runs through.
I have a replacement pulley to fit but don’t know what size they are to replace them.
Also what type of rivets people have used, ie stainless or Monel etc.
Many thanks,
Richard.
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Hi all,
I am trying to rig the jib furler on my Hartley Wanderer so that I can operate it from the thwarts. I could just do with some guidance on the route of the control line and where to put pulleys to enable this.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Peter
1604
|
Jonathan?
The class rules do not include the use of blocks for the jib fairlead so doing so would put you out of class for racing.?
Of course for cruising you can do anything, though this may affect the value of your boat when you come to sell it.?
Mike? WCOA Technical Secretary ?
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On 23 Jul 2022, at 10:59, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
?
I've noticed that the black plastic jibsheet leads on? my Wanderer 910 have been badly worn through use, which seems to explain the friction sheeting in the jib and its reluctance to run back out. I'm about to replace them, but I notice that the latest Wayfarers
have blocks to lead the jibsheet. Does anyone have any experience of using blocks on a Wanderer?
|
I've noticed that the black plastic jibsheet leads on? my Wanderer 910 have been badly worn through use, which seems to explain the friction sheeting in the jib and its reluctance to run back out. I'm about to replace them, but I notice that the latest Wayfarers
have blocks to lead the jibsheet. Does anyone have any experience of using blocks on a Wanderer?
|
HI?
We have some Hartley Wanderers as training boats and they are great except when new trainees sail unaccompanied for the first few times, when they sit too far back and water leaks in through the transom flaps - Great idea about the gaffer tape. How have we gone for so long without figuring that out!!!
-- Lucy Griffiths
?
Pictures and walks ?around the Black Country and beyond. Places you'll probably remember walking yourself
|
Fair point Peter.
It is not the first time I have heard gaffer tape and Wanderer transom flaps mentioned in the same sentence.
Bonne chance.
PPM
Get
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Philip
The short answer is no. ?The long answer is that on Saturday with little wind I thought I would try out my new quiet electric motor. ?My wanderer gradually filled with water through the transom, so I lent over to check the flaps were not stuck
open and broke off part of the flap, which was even less effective and the trip out was curtailed.
So I need to repair or cover over the flaps.
On reflection I think the weight of the engine plus my weight at the stern meant the flaps were in the water all the time, rather than just above the water line when sailing. ?Should have gaffer taped them up before setting off.
Thanks
On 11 Jul 2022, at 09:58, Philip Meadowcroft < philip@...> wrote:
Peter,
Do you even need to be bothered with transom flaps ?
The bailers should be sufficient.
(But I admit I do not sail a Hartley-built Wanderer.)
Cheers.
Philip Meadowcroft
W1541? Black Mischief
Get
One of mine cracked today. ? Anyone have experience of repairing them? ?Mine have a bungee running between them to keep them closed, is that standard or a modification by a previous owner. ?Several other classes in the dinghy park just had flaps.
?They were rather flimsy plastic which had perished. ? Thanks for any advice. ?Peter?
|
Philip
The short answer is no. ?The long answer is that on Saturday with little wind I thought I would try out my new quiet electric motor. ?My wanderer gradually filled with water through the transom, so I lent over to check the flaps were not stuck open and broke off part of the flap, which was even less effective and the trip out was curtailed.
So I need to repair or cover over the flaps.
On reflection I think the weight of the engine plus my weight at the stern meant the flaps were in the water all the time, rather than just above the water line when sailing. ?Should have gaffer taped them up before setting off.
Thanks
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On 11 Jul 2022, at 09:58, Philip Meadowcroft < philip@...> wrote:
Peter,
Do you even need to be bothered with transom flaps ?
The bailers should be sufficient.
(But I admit I do not sail a Hartley-built Wanderer.)
Cheers.
Philip Meadowcroft
W1541? Black Mischief
Get
One of mine cracked today. ? Anyone have experience of repairing them? ?Mine have a bungee running between them to keep them closed, is that standard or a modification by a previous owner. ?Several other classes in the dinghy park just had flaps. ?They
were rather flimsy plastic which had perished. ? Thanks for any advice. ?Peter?
|
Peter,
Do you even need to be bothered with transom flaps ?
The bailers should be sufficient.
(But I admit I do not sail a Hartley-built Wanderer.)
Cheers.
Philip Meadowcroft
W1541? Black Mischief
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
One of mine cracked today. ? Anyone have experience of repairing them? ?Mine have a bungee running between them to keep them closed, is that standard or a modification by a previous owner. ?Several other classes in the dinghy park just had flaps. ?They
were rather flimsy plastic which had perished. ? Thanks for any advice. ?Peter?
|
One of mine cracked today. ? Anyone have experience of repairing them? ?Mine have a bungee running between them to keep them closed, is that standard or a modification by a previous owner. ?Several other classes in the dinghy park just had flaps. ?They were rather flimsy plastic which had perished. ? Thanks for any advice. ?Peter?
|
Re: Mechanics of the Wanderer's IYE Rudder
Mike ? Thanks for your reply and info therein. Regards ? Terry Pullen ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Hamilton
Sent: 01 July 2022 13:21
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [wanderer] Mechanics of the Wanderer's IYE Rudder ? Hi Terry Working description is correct. Some, including myself have the downhaul completely in bungee.? Reason for kicking up is bungee weakens over time and does not provide enough down pressure ? Fellow Wanderer Sailors
While talking with a Gull owner yesterday (Gull is essentially a smaller Wanderer) we were comparing similarities of layout and fitments between his Gull and my Wanderer.
The Gull sailor mentioned he was having difficulties understanding how his rudder controls he was getting his rudder frequently kicking up.
On comparing our rudders we noted that they were of identical 'IYE' make / design on our Anglo Marine boats. Perhaps his downhaul comprised 100% Bungy, I am not entirely sure on this point.
It became obvious that our understanding of how this design is supposed to work differed and hence this post.
Below I define what I believe the function of the two control lines and welcome any comments/corrections etc from others as well as common reasons for his rudder kicking up etc:-
1. Both rudder control lines (Uphaul & Downhaul) enter the aluminium housing at its forward facing edge and initially pass over the top of a fixed 'pivot pin' located beneath the tiller slide rail. This is not to be confused with the rudder's main Pivot Bolt; 2. After leaving the 'Pivot Pin' the Uphaul line is routed around the underside of a spring-loaded Nylon roller which tracks along the top radiused edge of the blade the line is then terminated at the blade's trailing edge;
3. This Uphaul line comprises a single continuous line of ~5mm thickness which when pulled in raises the rudder blade to a near horizontal position and can be cleated off, in the raised position, using the tiller mounted cleat;
?
4. The second line, the 'Downhaul', is comprised of two conjoined sections - line and ~6mm bungy and when pulled lowers the rudder blade (assuming the uphaul is not currently cleated) and the Bungy is hooked around a cleat on the tiller shaft..
??? This Line is attached to the blade's leading edge and when fully lowered the blade is 'locked' in position by the combined tension of the spring-loaded Nylon roller engaging in the 'notch' in the top of the blade and the tensioned bungy;
5. Should the rudder strike an underwater obstruction when fully down and 'locked' then the Bungy element of the downhaul, working with the spring roller will allow the rudder blade to partially or fully raise the rudder to protect it.
I have probably not used the correct terms in my descriptions above but hopefully the function of each rudder line, as I understand it, is relatively clear.
Many thanks
Terry Pullen
W863 Anglo Marine MD Conversion
|
Re: Mechanics of the Wanderer's IYE Rudder
Hi Terry Working description is correct. Some, including myself have the downhaul completely in bungee.? Reason for kicking up is bungee weakens over time and does not provide enough down pressure All the best Mike H?
Fellow Wanderer Sailors
While talking with a Gull owner yesterday (Gull is essentially a smaller Wanderer) we were comparing similarities of layout and fitments between his Gull and my Wanderer.
The Gull sailor mentioned he was having difficulties understanding how his rudder controls he was getting his rudder frequently kicking up.
On comparing our rudders we noted that they were of identical 'IYE' make / design on our Anglo Marine boats. Perhaps his downhaul comprised 100% Bungy, I am not entirely sure on this point.
It became obvious that our understanding of how this design is supposed to work differed and hence this post.
Below I define what I believe the function of the two control lines and welcome any comments/corrections etc from others as well as common reasons for his rudder kicking up etc:-
1. Both rudder control lines (Uphaul & Downhaul) enter the aluminium housing at its forward facing edge and initially pass over the top of a fixed 'pivot pin' located beneath the tiller slide rail. This is not to be confused with the rudder's main Pivot Bolt;
2. After leaving the 'Pivot Pin' the Uphaul line is routed around the underside of a spring-loaded Nylon roller which tracks along the top radiused edge of the blade the line is then terminated at the blade's trailing edge;
3. This Uphaul line comprises a single continuous line of ~5mm thickness which when pulled in raises the rudder blade to a near horizontal position and can be cleated off, in the raised position, using the tiller mounted cleat;
?
4. The second line, the 'Downhaul', is comprised of two conjoined sections - line and ~6mm bungy and when pulled lowers the rudder blade (assuming the uphaul is not currently cleated) and the Bungy is hooked around a cleat on the tiller shaft..
??? This Line is attached to the blade's leading edge and when fully lowered the blade is 'locked' in position by the combined tension of the spring-loaded Nylon roller engaging in the 'notch' in the top of the blade and the tensioned bungy;
5. Should the rudder strike an underwater obstruction when fully down and 'locked' then the Bungy element of the downhaul, working with the spring roller will allow the rudder blade to partially or fully raise the rudder to protect it.
I have probably not used the correct terms in my descriptions above but hopefully the function of each rudder line, as I understand it, is relatively clear.
Many thanks
Terry Pullen
W863 Anglo Marine MD Conversion
|
Mechanics of the Wanderer's IYE Rudder
Fellow Wanderer Sailors
While talking with a Gull owner yesterday (Gull is essentially a smaller Wanderer) we were comparing similarities of layout and fitments between his Gull and my Wanderer.
The Gull sailor mentioned he was having difficulties understanding how his rudder controls worked.as he was getting his rudder frequently kicking up.
On comparing our rudders we noted that they were of identical 'IYE' make / design on our Anglo Marine boats. Perhaps his downhaul comprised 100% Bungy, I am not entirely sure on this point.
It became obvious that our understanding of how this design is supposed to work differed and hence this post.
Below I define what I believe the function of the two control lines and welcome any comments/corrections etc from others as well as common reasons for his rudder kicking up etc:-
1. Both rudder control lines (Uphaul & Downhaul) enter the aluminium housing at its forward facing edge and initially pass over the top of a fixed 'pivot pin' located beneath the tiller slide rail. This is not to be confused with the rudder's main Pivot Bolt;
2. After leaving the 'Pivot Pin' the Uphaul line is routed around the underside of a spring-loaded Nylon roller which tracks along the top radiused edge of the blade the line is then terminated at the blade's trailing edge;
3. This Uphaul line comprises a single continuous line of ~5mm thickness which when pulled in raises the rudder blade to a near horizontal position and can be cleated off, in the raised position, using the tiller mounted cleat;
?
4. The second line, the 'Downhaul', is comprised of two conjoined sections - line and ~6mm bungy and when pulled lowers the rudder blade (assuming the uphaul is not currently cleated) and the Bungy is hooked around a cleat on the tiller shaft..
??? This Line is attached to the blade's leading edge and when fully lowered the blade is 'locked' in position by the combined tension of the spring-loaded Nylon roller engaging in the 'notch' in the top of the blade and the tensioned bungy;
5. Should the rudder strike an underwater obstruction when fully down and 'locked' then the Bungy element of the downhaul, working with the spring roller will allow the rudder blade to partially or fully raise the rudder to protect it.
I have probably not used the correct terms in my descriptions above but hopefully the function of each rudder line, as I understand it, is relatively clear.
Many thanks
Terry Pullen
W863 Anglo Marine MD Conversion
|
Replacement spinnaker halliard
Is anyone able to advise the correct thickness for a replacement spinnaker halliard? I'm thinking that with modern ropes I can go quite thin (3mm?), but are there any other considerations??
As always, any help and advice much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
Many thanks for all the helpful advice re single handed sailing and capsize recovery. All really helpful stuff. Much appreciated
Peter
W1604
Get
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Thank you. Very wise words!
On 4 Jun 2022, at 19:28, Alan Collins <arfcollins@...> wrote:
?I hope this doesn't sound too trite, but the best way to manage a capsize is to avoid one happening in the first place.?
I say this as an ex Wanderer sailor who capsized twice and had such trouble getting righted and sailing again I vowed it would never happen again. I had my capsizes in the first 18months of owning the boat, and then had 20 capsize-free years sailing it.
The main problem, already discussed, is that older boats such as mine float high in the water. A stiff breeze on the hull will tend to push the partly submerged mainsail further under the water, rotating the boat and making it even harder to climb onto the
centreboard. On one of my capsizes the mast stuck into the mud, so there was no way to recover without a pull from another boat. Luckily a passing launch was willing to help.
My subsequent rules for avoiding capsize were:
1. Get an up-to-date weather forecast. Nowadays I find the best apps are XC Weather and Windy. One of the worst is BBC unless you want to know if it's raining now.
2. Reef before you leave if you have any doubts about managing the wind. I installed slab reefing and it was the best improvement I made to the boat.
3. Have the jib sheet by your hand. If you are hiked out hard in a gust you don't want to be leaning into the boat to reach the sheet as that could significantly alter the balance. There has been mention in previous posts of tying the sheets together. I've
never thought this was advantageous. Instead I made my sheets long enough that, when close-hauled, there was plenty hanging over the windward gunwale and, in a good breeze I would be sitting on it so it was always to hand. It's always possible to pick up the
opposite sheet as you cross the boat when tacking.
4. Always be prepared to let the jib fly in a nasty gust. This will tend to turn the boat into the wind, reducing heeling. If you ease the main without easing the jib at the same time the boat will turn away from the wind and will heel more, and you may then
get very wet.
5. Make sure there is nothing in the mast area that the jib sheet can get stuck on or in. I always filled the foredeck cleat to the brim with the painter, and made a sort of gasket cut from a plastic bottle that covered the gap between mast and foredeck. You
don't want the jib to be held tight by the wrong sheet when you tack in a blow.
As elsewhere mentioned, the metal centreboard is a great insurance policy. I'd have fitted one, but as I was largely sailing solo I had enough trouble pulling the boat up the slip without adding more weight to it. I had a buoyancy pocket added to the mainsail,
but never tried it out once I'd established my 'no-capsize' policy, so I don't know how much buoyancy is needed to counteract the older 'too-buoyant' hull and prevent turning turtle.
Hope this helps. Rule 6 is 'only capsize when the water's warm'!
Alan?
Ex W550
?
--
Anna
W1576
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
Thank you. Very wise words!
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Show quoted text
On 4 Jun 2022, at 19:28, Alan Collins <arfcollins@...> wrote:
?I hope this doesn't sound too trite, but the best way to manage a capsize is to avoid one happening in the first place.? I say this as an ex Wanderer sailor who capsized twice and had such trouble getting righted and sailing again I vowed it would never happen again. I had my capsizes in the first 18months of owning the boat, and then had 20 capsize-free years sailing it. The main problem, already discussed, is that older boats such as mine float high in the water. A stiff breeze on the hull will tend to push the partly submerged mainsail further under the water, rotating the boat and making it even harder to climb onto the centreboard. On one of my capsizes the mast stuck into the mud, so there was no way to recover without a pull from another boat. Luckily a passing launch was willing to help. My subsequent rules for avoiding capsize were: 1. Get an up-to-date weather forecast. Nowadays I find the best apps are XC Weather and Windy. One of the worst is BBC unless you want to know if it's raining now. 2. Reef before you leave if you have any doubts about managing the wind. I installed slab reefing and it was the best improvement I made to the boat. 3. Have the jib sheet by your hand. If you are hiked out hard in a gust you don't want to be leaning into the boat to reach the sheet as that could significantly alter the balance. There has been mention in previous posts of tying the sheets together. I've never thought this was advantageous. Instead I made my sheets long enough that, when close-hauled, there was plenty hanging over the windward gunwale and, in a good breeze I would be sitting on it so it was always to hand. It's always possible to pick up the opposite sheet as you cross the boat when tacking. 4. Always be prepared to let the jib fly in a nasty gust. This will tend to turn the boat into the wind, reducing heeling. If you ease the main without easing the jib at the same time the boat will turn away from the wind and will heel more, and you may then get very wet. 5. Make sure there is nothing in the mast area that the jib sheet can get stuck on or in. I always filled the foredeck cleat to the brim with the painter, and made a sort of gasket cut from a plastic bottle that covered the gap between mast and foredeck. You don't want the jib to be held tight by the wrong sheet when you tack in a blow. As elsewhere mentioned, the metal centreboard is a great insurance policy. I'd have fitted one, but as I was largely sailing solo I had enough trouble pulling the boat up the slip without adding more weight to it. I had a buoyancy pocket added to the mainsail, but never tried it out once I'd established my 'no-capsize' policy, so I don't know how much buoyancy is needed to counteract the older 'too-buoyant' hull and prevent turning turtle. Hope this helps. Rule 6 is 'only capsize when the water's warm'! Alan? Ex W550
?
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
I hope this doesn't sound too trite, but the best way to manage a capsize is to avoid one happening in the first place.? I say this as an ex Wanderer sailor who capsized twice and had such trouble getting righted and sailing again I vowed it would never happen again. I had my capsizes in the first 18months of owning the boat, and then had 20 capsize-free years sailing it. The main problem, already discussed, is that older boats such as mine float high in the water. A stiff breeze on the hull will tend to push the partly submerged mainsail further under the water, rotating the boat and making it even harder to climb onto the centreboard. On one of my capsizes the mast stuck into the mud, so there was no way to recover without a pull from another boat. Luckily a passing launch was willing to help. My subsequent rules for avoiding capsize were: 1. Get an up-to-date weather forecast. Nowadays I find the best apps are XC Weather and Windy. One of the worst is BBC unless you want to know if it's raining now. 2. Reef before you leave if you have any doubts about managing the wind. I installed slab reefing and it was the best improvement I made to the boat. 3. Have the jib sheet by your hand. If you are hiked out hard in a gust you don't want to be leaning into the boat to reach the sheet as that could significantly alter the balance. There has been mention in previous posts of tying the sheets together. I've never thought this was advantageous. Instead I made my sheets long enough that, when close-hauled, there was plenty hanging over the windward gunwale and, in a good breeze I would be sitting on it so it was always to hand. It's always possible to pick up the opposite sheet as you cross the boat when tacking. 4. Always be prepared to let the jib fly in a nasty gust. This will tend to turn the boat into the wind, reducing heeling. If you ease the main without easing the jib at the same time the boat will turn away from the wind and will heel more, and you may then get very wet. 5. Make sure there is nothing in the mast area that the jib sheet can get stuck on or in. I always filled the foredeck cleat to the brim with the painter, and made a sort of gasket cut from a plastic bottle that covered the gap between mast and foredeck. You don't want the jib to be held tight by the wrong sheet when you tack in a blow. As elsewhere mentioned, the metal centreboard is a great insurance policy. I'd have fitted one, but as I was largely sailing solo I had enough trouble pulling the boat up the slip without adding more weight to it. I had a buoyancy pocket added to the mainsail, but never tried it out once I'd established my 'no-capsize' policy, so I don't know how much buoyancy is needed to counteract the older 'too-buoyant' hull and prevent turning turtle. Hope this helps. Rule 6 is 'only capsize when the water's warm'! Alan? Ex W550
?
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
Thank you. Yes it’s an MD. It’s just old age then. I need to work out! The old wooden centre board would bend a bit and you could get more traction.?
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On 4 Jun 2022, at 13:10, Philip Meadowcroft <philip@...> wrote:
?
Anna,
?
Your pre-Hartley Wanderer will have had the MD conversion if the area beneath the port and starboard ?benches aft the thwart are cut open (thereby reducing the buoyancy to enable the boat to float
lower.
?
Cheers.
?
Philip Meadowcroft
W1541 Black Mischief
?
?
I struggled to get on my slippery white GRP centreboard. My buoyancy aid got in the way. I only just made it. Couldn’t pull the boat up and had to be rescued. (I learned that waving at the safety boat doesn’t mean rescue me!) I’m not sure
whether my pre Hartley boat has the MD conversion. How can I tell? I thought everything ‘late old build’ was built to float low.
Concerned of Rye Harbour!
Anna ?
On 4 Jun 2022, at 11:13, Mark Allinson via groups.io <m.allinson2@...> wrote:
?I think doing a practice is very wise.?
In ?my case the previous owner had done a wonderful varnish job on the centreplate which made it really tricky to stand on, slipped off a few times. ?Also - nice and gentle on the centre board as there were some ominous cracking sounds
(possibly from the centreboard case which has now been reinforced with biaxial cloth and west system epoxy). I got in over the transom but it was a major physical effort inspired by panic. Frightened man with a bucket works well for bailing but the whole thing
was pretty knackering and I needed a half hour to recover by which time I was quite cold. THEREFORE - anything that prepares you for the physical and psychological shock of a capsize is a very good thing.?
?
Just interested in how single handed Wanderer sailors have managed with capsize recovery on their own in a Wanderer?
Is it doable? Any specific tricks or advice? – I am going to do a test capsize on my own shortly because I will be sailing a bit on my own and want to be prepared.
Mine is a Hartly boats 2009.
(Not that I am suggesting that this happens much to you experienced sailors of course !!!)
?
--
Anna
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
Anna,
?
Your pre-Hartley Wanderer will have had the MD conversion if the area beneath the port and starboard ?benches aft the thwart are cut open (thereby reducing the buoyancy to enable the boat to float
lower.
?
Cheers.
?
Philip Meadowcroft
W1541 Black Mischief
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Anna Knight via groups.io
Sent: 04 June 2022 12:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [wanderer] Sailing Single Handed
?
I struggled to get on my slippery white GRP centreboard. My buoyancy aid got in the way. I only just made it. Couldn’t pull the boat up and had to be rescued. (I learned that waving at the safety boat doesn’t mean rescue me!) I’m not sure
whether my pre Hartley boat has the MD conversion. How can I tell? I thought everything ‘late old build’ was built to float low.
Concerned of Rye Harbour!
Anna ?
On 4 Jun 2022, at 11:13, Mark Allinson via groups.io <m.allinson2@...> wrote:
?I think doing a practice is very wise.?
In ?my case the previous owner had done a wonderful varnish job on the centreplate which made it really tricky to stand on, slipped off a few times. ?Also - nice and gentle on the centre board as there were some ominous cracking sounds
(possibly from the centreboard case which has now been reinforced with biaxial cloth and west system epoxy). I got in over the transom but it was a major physical effort inspired by panic. Frightened man with a bucket works well for bailing but the whole thing
was pretty knackering and I needed a half hour to recover by which time I was quite cold. THEREFORE - anything that prepares you for the physical and psychological shock of a capsize is a very good thing.?
?
Just interested in how single handed Wanderer sailors have managed with capsize recovery on their own in a Wanderer?
Is it doable? Any specific tricks or advice? – I am going to do a test capsize on my own shortly because I will be sailing a bit on my own and want to be prepared.
Mine is a Hartly boats 2009.
(Not that I am suggesting that this happens much to you experienced sailors of course !!!)
?
--
Anna
|
Re: Sailing Single Handed
I struggled to get on my slippery white GRP centreboard. My buoyancy aid got in the way. I only just made it. Couldn’t pull the boat up and had to be rescued. (I learned that waving at the safety boat doesn’t mean rescue me!) I’m not sure whether my pre Hartley boat has the MD conversion. How can I tell? I thought everything ‘late old build’ was built to float low. Concerned of Rye Harbour!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4 Jun 2022, at 11:13, Mark Allinson via groups.io <m.allinson2@...> wrote:
? I think doing a practice is very wise.? In ?my case the previous owner had done a wonderful varnish job on the centreplate which made it really tricky to stand on, slipped off a few times. ?Also - nice and gentle on the centre board as there were some ominous cracking sounds (possibly from the centreboard case which has now been reinforced with biaxial cloth and west system epoxy). I got in over the transom but it was a major physical effort inspired by panic. Frightened man with a bucket works well for bailing but the whole thing was pretty knackering and I needed a half hour to recover by which time I was quite cold. THEREFORE - anything that prepares you for the physical and psychological shock of a capsize is a very good thing.?
? Hi all, ? Just interested in how single handed Wanderer sailors have managed with capsize recovery on their own in a Wanderer? ? Is it doable? Any specific tricks or advice? – I am going to do a test capsize on my own shortly because I will be sailing a bit on my own and want to be prepared. ? Mine is a Hartly boats 2009. ? (Not that I am suggesting that this happens much to you experienced sailors of course !!!) ? Many thanks, ? ? Peter W1604 ? Sent from??for Windows ?
|
Mike Hamilton