Thanks both. I'm going to try the hinged tiller and see what happens. I'll keep the old tiller in case I sell, but with the amount of work done on the boat I hope to keep it for a bit!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi
Putting a hinge in the tiller or hatch in the top of the locker will put the boat out of class. If you are only cruising that does not matter, but it could affect the value when you want to sell it.?
Mike
Technical Secretary?
On 30 Dec 2021, at 09:46, John Sharples 1646 <johnsharples10@...> wrote:
?Hi
A friend of mine has put a hatch in the top of the locker for very easy access without lifting the lid.
John 1646
Hello Jonathan
I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though.
If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which will be exaggerated massively whilst underway.Weather helm will make the sail very uncomfortable.
You don’t need to remove the tiller to gain accces to the locker.
Do you have a picture of your tiller?
Doug??
On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 at 22:37, Jonathan Daniel via
<jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote:
Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong
with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
Chris?
?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having
recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
--
John 1646
|
Hi
Putting a hinge in the tiller or hatch in the top of the locker will put the boat out of class. If you are only cruising that does not matter, but it could affect the value when you want to sell it.?
Mike Technical Secretary?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 30 Dec 2021, at 09:46, John Sharples 1646 <johnsharples10@...> wrote:
? Hi
A friend of mine has put a hatch in the top of the locker for very easy access without lifting the lid.
John 1646
Hello Jonathan
I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though.
If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which will be exaggerated massively whilst underway.Weather helm will make the sail very uncomfortable.
You don’t need to remove the tiller to gain accces to the locker.
Do you have a picture of your tiller?
Doug??
On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 at 22:37, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
Chris? ?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
-- John 1646
|
Hi
A friend of mine has put a hatch in the top of the locker for very easy access without lifting the lid.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello Jonathan
I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though.
If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which will be exaggerated massively whilst underway.Weather helm will make the sail very uncomfortable.
You don’t need to remove the tiller to gain accces to the locker.
Do you have a picture of your tiller?
Doug??
On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 at 22:37, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
Chris? ?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
--
John 1646
|
Hi Doug, there's absolutely no way to open the box with the tiller in place, photo attached. Tiller slides into the rudder head and goes over the box lid. Should have also mentioned, another reason for replacing the old tiller is the play in it. I can't tighten
it any further and you can see the wear where the tiller slides on. Is this the same as your setup?
I've attached a couple of pictures of what I'm trying to do, but it may well be a total failure. Having said that, I've seen it done on a Wayfarer. Just can't remember the exact set-up or I would copy it. It won't be strong enough to sail with the tiller raised,
but should have a good length of contact area with it down.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello Jonathan
I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though.
If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which will be exaggerated massively whilst underway.Weather helm will make the sail very uncomfortable.
You don’t need to remove the tiller to gain accces to the locker.
Do you have a picture of your tiller?
Doug??
On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 at 22:37, Jonathan Daniel via
<jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote:
Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those
numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
Chris?
?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently
removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Hello Jonathan
I personally think making any hinge on the tiller is not a good idea.Thi does not mean I am right though.
If you do this it will be necessary to ensure zero play on the tiller which will be exaggerated massively whilst underway.Weather helm will make the sail very uncomfortable.
You don’t need to remove the tiller to gain accces to the locker.
Do you have a picture of your tiller?
Doug??
On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 at 22:37, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
Chris? ?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Perfect, thank you.
Jonathan Daniel
On Tuesday, 28 December 2021, 12:56:34 GMT, Chris Callender <chriscallender@...> wrote:
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
On 22 Dec 2021, at 14:57, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
W172 has a 43” tiller and the track is 6”. I didn’t reply at first because she is of questionable parentage ;-) with an Anglo Marine plate but a Winton era hull number (which has been discussed before) but I don’t think you will be too far wrong with those numbers either. If you need any other measurements let me know.
Regards
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 22 Dec 2021, at 14:57, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
?
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Hi all,
Does anyone know the length of the standard tiller on an Anglo Marine wanderer? And the length of the top of the rudder head (aluminium track) it goes into? I think mine has been replaced at some time, and I'm now replacing that! Having recently removed the traveller, I'm hoping to make a tiller that can hinge up to give access to the rear storage box.
Any help much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
For anyone that's interested or considering the same thing, here's progress and pictures so far on the centre main conversion. I'm still waiting for the ratchet block to arrive which is why it's missing here!
At the stern I've gone for a fixed bridle, held in place with stoppers in fairleads. These are attached to the existing traveller adjustment lines so I can shorten the bridle from either side if needed. Getting the nuts under where the traveller was is fun!
I'm using a Selden Deck 38 jammer as this was one of only two I could find (other a Ronstan RF7) where the cleat height is adjustable without using wedges.
I'm going to use another boom slide to attach the rear block on the boom, and move it in 6 inches, attaching the end of the sheet at the very end still. Wayfarer people assure me that this prevents twisting.
And I need to add some protection to the end of the boom in case it drops, or alternatively use a topping lift.
Just need to test it now!
Jonathan Daniel, W910.
|
I use a bridle on my Wanderer.? I did not remove the traveler though, just tied it to one side.? I ran the bridle through the sheaves at each end of the traveller and into the original traveller adjusting cleats.
It makes centering the main possible in light winds without adding leach tension.? Much simpler than moving the traveller upwind.
Mike
On Thu, 4 Nov 2021 at 21:14, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block.
I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to...
As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Don't remove the traveller.
Attatch lacing eyes on each side of traveller for bridle.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2021, 21:14 Jonathan Daniel via , <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block.
I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to...
As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Boom will hit the boat when dropped if remove traveller
On Thu, 4 Nov 2021, 21:14 Jonathan Daniel via , <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block.
I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to...
As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Hi DanielI haven't chipped in to this conversation before, mainly because I answered an almost identical question a few months ago via?editor@... for someone called George, so I thought that might have been picked up, but no worries. In answer to your question "should I use a bridle", my opinion is - yes, definitely. This is what I did when I converted my Wanderer from transom to centre mainsheet. As for mainsheet leech tension you mention; personally, I only?get concerned if the?top tell tale?is curling around the leeward side of the mainsail, telling me I have too much kicker tension, otherwise I don't worry about it - but then, I am not a technical type. Good luck with all your conversions.
Best regards Derrick?
On Thu, 4 Nov 2021 at 22:14, Jonathan Daniel via <jdaniel1000= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block.
I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to...
As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Thanks to everyone who replied on the centre mainsheet question. I've managed to sort out a bracket for the mainsheet jammer and found a boom slide to attach the centre boom block.
I'm now wondering if I should use a rope bridle across the top of the transom, and remove the traveller altogether? I could use 2 attachments at the ends and a length of dyneema (knotted in the midle), and adjust it so the mainsheet is almost block-to-block when sheeted in. I'm thinking this may help me to keep a good sheeting angle, relying on the kicker instead for mainsail leech tension? The added advantage is that the traveller car really needs replacing and I'm not keen to spend on it if I don't need to...
As usual, any suggestions very much appreciated.
Jonathan Daniel
|
Jonathan,
I would strongly recommend you contact Ian Porter 01243 377522
.? Fitting the block to the aft section of the centreboard case is a task for the sort of seasoned professional Ian is.
He now has a travelling service from his base on Hayling Island if you are unable to take your boat to him.
Cheers.
Philip Meadowcroft
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm planning to convert my Wanderer (910) to centre mainsheet over the winter. The kids are getting into sailing it but struggle with the mainsheet coming over the tiller. So some questions, any help much appreciated:
1 Does the final block attach to the back of the centreboard case, and is this strong enough? I'm imagining some kind of wooden bracket to get the angle right. Also, I think that having it on the thwart would be in the way and prevent rowing?
2 Do I use a mainsheet jammer, or just a block? What equipment does anyone recommend? Is a ratchet block worth having?
3 For the forward block on the boom, how do I attach a bracket? Can I rivet in a bracket or strop to attach the block to? Is there something available or is it a case of making something?
Sorry it's so many questions, just want to get this one right...
Jonathan Daniel
|
Hi Jonathan. I investigated this a few years ago. Hartleys sell a fibre glass turret that screws and binds into the back of the case tinted to the colour of your boat. They sell all the other stuff too. It ain’t cheap but it will look like a professional job. Good Luck! Mark ?W914 Mark Allinson
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 18 Oct 2021, at 10:49, Jonathan Daniel via groups.io <jdaniel1000@...> wrote:
? I'm planning to convert my Wanderer (910) to centre mainsheet over the winter. The kids are getting into sailing it but struggle with the mainsheet coming over the tiller. So some questions, any help much appreciated:
1 Does the final block attach to the back of the centreboard case, and is this strong enough? I'm imagining some kind of wooden bracket to get the angle right. Also, I think that having it on the thwart would be in the way and prevent rowing?
2 Do I use a mainsheet jammer, or just a block? What equipment does anyone recommend? Is a ratchet block worth having?
3 For the forward block on the boom, how do I attach a bracket? Can I rivet in a bracket or strop to attach the block to? Is there something available or is it a case of making something?
Sorry it's so many questions, just want to get this one right...
Jonathan Daniel
|
I'm planning to convert my Wanderer (910) to centre mainsheet over the winter. The kids are getting into sailing it but struggle with the mainsheet coming over the tiller. So some questions, any help much appreciated:
1 Does the final block attach to the back of the centreboard case, and is this strong enough? I'm imagining some kind of wooden bracket to get the angle right. Also, I think that having it on the thwart would be in the way and prevent rowing?
2 Do I use a mainsheet jammer, or just a block? What equipment does anyone recommend? Is a ratchet block worth having?
3 For the forward block on the boom, how do I attach a bracket? Can I rivet in a bracket or strop to attach the block to? Is there something available or is it a case of making something?
Sorry it's so many questions, just want to get this one right...
Jonathan Daniel
|
Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Hi
Thickened epoxy.Would advise against using gel coat as this will crack when drilled into. Drill the hole slightly smaller than the drill width. Micro fibres will stiffen up the epoxy and will run less.Will also give a stronger mix. You can fill voids on deck level to stop all epoxy running away into the holes.
Hi all,
How do you seal screws which penetrate the buoyancy tanks (in a Wanderer Mark 2)? This applies to eg the screws for the swivel plates for the floorboards and the screws at the bottom of the tabernacle. I have a couple of screws which are loose in the fibreglass and leak air / water. Can anyone advise on the best way to recreate a seal? I was thinking about removing the screw, squeezing in some gelcoat and then re-drilling, would this work, and should i also use some sealant?
Very grateful for any views.
thanks
James
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Many thanks Martin, most appreciated.
J
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Martin via groups.io Sent: 12 August 2021 09:14 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [wanderer] screwing into buoyancy tanks Hi James, I haven't tried this, but I'd probably avoid gelcoat as it tends to be very brittle. I'd use epoxy thickened with microfibres or low density filler, then re-redrill. I'd seal the screws with butyl tape. If you haven't tried butyl tape before then it is like a marine version of blu-tack - it never sets. It isn't great for items that have large loads e.g. cleats - but for everything else it will keep things watertight for decades. Easy to apply - just use like blu-tack - pull a bit off, squeeze into a sausage and wrap round the screw. In fact I'd probably try butyl tape before I tried filling the holes. Cheers Martin On 11/08/2021 13:17, Roff, James via groups.io wrote: Hi all,
How do you seal screws which penetrate the buoyancy tanks (in a Wanderer Mark 2)? This applies to eg the screws for the swivel plates for the floorboards and the screws at the bottom of the tabernacle. I have a couple of screws which are loose in the fibreglass and leak air / water. Can anyone advise on the best way to recreate a seal? I was thinking about removing the screw, squeezing in some gelcoat and then re-drilling, would this work, and should i also use some sealant?
Very grateful for any views.
thanks
James
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
Re: screwing into buoyancy tanks
Hi James,
I haven't tried this, but I'd probably avoid gelcoat as it tends to be very brittle. I'd use epoxy thickened with microfibres or low density filler, then re-redrill.
I'd seal the screws with butyl tape. If you haven't tried butyl tape before then it is like a marine version of blu-tack - it never sets. It isn't great for items that have large loads e.g. cleats? - but for everything else it will keep things watertight for decades. Easy to apply - just use like blu-tack - pull a bit off, squeeze into a sausage and wrap round the screw. In fact I'd probably try butyl tape before I tried filling the holes.
Cheers
Martin
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 11/08/2021 13:17, Roff, James via groups.io wrote: Hi all,
How do you seal screws which penetrate the buoyancy tanks (in a Wanderer Mark 2)? This applies to eg the screws for the swivel plates for the floorboards and the screws at the bottom of the tabernacle. I have a couple of screws which are loose in the fibreglass and leak air / water. Can anyone advise on the best way to recreate a seal? I was thinking about removing the screw, squeezing in some gelcoat and then re-drilling, would this work, and should i also use some sealant?
Very grateful for any views.
thanks
James
The Marine Management Organisation (MMO) The information contained in this communication is intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this message in error, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in reliance of the content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Whilst this email and associated attachments will have been checked for known viruses whilst within MMO systems, we can accept no responsibility once it has left our systems. Communications on the MMO's computer systems may be monitored and/or recorded to secure the effective operation of the system and for other lawful purposes.
|
John Sharples 1646
.jpg)
.jpg)
