Flotation pad for sail pocket
Hi ? I have one of the inflatable flotation pads that fit in a pocket at the top of the main sail to help prevent a capsize turning into a complete inversion. It was supplied by Anglo Marine over 20 years ago – it’s rather like a small li-lo. ? Anyway, probably due to its age it has become somewhat prone to leaks and as much as I try to seal them with “Stormsure” it doesn’t stay fully inflated for very long. ? Does anyone have any suggestions of either how to stop it leaking or what to replace it with? ? To stop the leaks I feel it needs a liquid sealant introduced inside through the air nozzle – it would need to “set” inside the closed pad into a flexible, leak-tight coating. Any ideas what might work? ? Alternatively, I may need to replace it with some sort of closed cell foam sheet. It would need to be buoyant (obviously) and not absorb water, rigid enough to be self-supporting, flexible enough to curve and flex with the sail and durable enough to last another 20 years. Any thoughts? ? Or any other bright ideas what I could use? ? Thanks in advance ? John W1428 Latitude ? ?
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Thanks for the suggestion John. In fact I have already emailed Porters. Great minds, eh? ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of John Renouf
Sent: 28 April 2021 15:35
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [wanderer] Gelcoat RAL numbers? I suggest a word with Ian Porter might produce the information that you need. W1518
On 28 Apr 2021, at 14:29, John Cavell <john@...> wrote:
Hi all ? I have Wanderer 1428, built by Anglo Marine in 1998. I want to do a couple of minor hull repairs and wonder if anyone has any records about the colours (RAL numbers) used by Anglo Marine? ? The hull is blue and white – “Oxford blue two-tone” according to the “Builder’s Certificate” with the deck being “Silver grey”. I have a recollection of part of the colour scheme being described as “ivory” but I can’t for the life of me find the correspondence with Anglo Marine when I bought her. ? Thanks in advance for any help. ? John
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I suggest a word with Ian Porter might produce the information that you need.
Regards
John R
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On 28 Apr 2021, at 14:29, John Cavell < john@...> wrote: Hi all ? I have Wanderer 1428, built by Anglo Marine in 1998. I want to do a couple of minor hull repairs and wonder if anyone has any records about the colours (RAL numbers) used by Anglo Marine? ? The hull is blue and white – “Oxford blue two-tone” according to the “Builder’s Certificate” with the deck being “Silver grey”. I have a recollection of part of the colour scheme being described as “ivory” but I can’t for the life of me find the correspondence with Anglo Marine when I bought her. ? Thanks in advance for any help. ? John
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Hi all ? I have Wanderer 1428, built by Anglo Marine in 1998. I want to do a couple of minor hull repairs and wonder if anyone has any records about the colours (RAL numbers) used by Anglo Marine? ? The hull is blue and white – “Oxford blue two-tone” according to the “Builder’s Certificate” with the deck being “Silver grey”. I have a recollection of part of the colour scheme being described as “ivory” but I can’t for the life of me find the correspondence with Anglo Marine when I bought her. ? Thanks in advance for any help. ? John
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Re: Trailer & launch trolley renovation
Thanks Anna and Pete for your suggestions. ? I had thought about Plastidip but I believe it is “removable” and doesn’t produce a very thick coating, so probably not up to the job. But I think spray-on “bed liner” might work, so have ordered this: ? 
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? I like Anna’s idea of carpet on the roller and may try it provided the extra thickness (increased diameter of the roller) doesn’t cause a problem. The road trailer has metal “hooks” above the roller that engage with the launch trolley, so extra thickness on the roller might mean the trolley won’t fit between the roller and hooks – we’ll see. However, where the hooks engage with the trolley is another place where paint damage will occur (leading to rusting), so I’m hoping the bed liner spray will protect that area too. ? Cheers John ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of PeteS via groups.io
Sent: 06 April 2021 10:42
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [wanderer] Trailer & launch trolley renovation? would something like the Plasticote / Plastidip type of rubber paints work on the roller ?? I'm assuming your rollers are metal not rubber already .....
regards
Pete
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Re: Trailer & launch trolley renovation
would something like the Plasticote / Plastidip type of rubber paints work on the roller ?? I'm assuming your rollers are metal not rubber already .....
regards
Pete
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Re: Trailer & launch trolley renovation
Hi John I can offer a solution I've seen which may help you. Attaching a length of carpet round and across the roller should protect the bottom of the boat. I hope you’ve had loads of helpful replies. Best wishes
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On 5 Apr 2021, at 15:18, John Cavell < john@...> wrote:
Hi All ? My launch trolley has got a but rusty in places so I have painted it with 2 coats of Galvafroid followed by Hammerite special metals primer and top coat of Hammerite. I’ll also put a coating of Waxoyl inside the hollow tubes as well as outside, so I hope it will last a few more years. ? My concern is that when I pull the boat/trolley on/off the road trailer each time I go for a sail, the paint on the trolley will be damaged by rolling it over the roller on the trailer. ? I was thinking of trying to spray a “rubbery” coating (if there is such a thing) on the roller to minimise abrasion of the paint – any thoughts as to whether this will actually be a problem, or suggestions what might be effective to coat the roller? ? Thanks John W1428 Latitude
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Trailer & launch trolley renovation
Hi All ? My launch trolley has got a but rusty in places so I have painted it with 2 coats of Galvafroid followed by Hammerite special metals primer and top coat of Hammerite. I’ll also put a coating of Waxoyl inside the hollow tubes as well as outside, so I hope it will last a few more years. ? My concern is that when I pull the boat/trolley on/off the road trailer each time I go for a sail, the paint on the trolley will be damaged by rolling it over the roller on the trailer. ? I was thinking of trying to spray a “rubbery” coating (if there is such a thing) on the roller to minimise abrasion of the paint – any thoughts as to whether this will actually be a problem, or suggestions what might be effective to coat the roller? ? Thanks John W1428 Latitude
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
Hello Dave
Don’t put any tension on the shrouds whilst the thwart is off. The thwart is an integral part of structural rigidity,in some cases the hull can be warped with shroud tension. Out of interest why are you going to add coats when the thwart is back on finish whilst on
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On 19 Feb 2021, at 15:31, Dave via < dkellygb+wanderer@...> wrote: Just an update, I removed all the varnish, prepared the wood and have used Le Tonk as suggested by Martin.? After three coats, it looks great!? I am going to do another coat this evening and reinstall the thwart on Sunday morning.? Once it is back in the boat, I might put another couple of coats of varnish on if I think it will help.? <PXL_20210218_134744232.jpg>
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
Just an update, I removed all the varnish, prepared the wood and have used Le Tonk as suggested by Martin.? After three coats, it looks great!? I am going to do another coat this evening and reinstall the thwart on Sunday morning.? Once it is back in the boat, I might put another couple of coats of varnish on if I think it will help.? 
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
Hi Martin,
Don't know about the thwart, but I have replaced bottom boards and varnished them with yacht varnish to waterproof them and look good. I made them skid proof by applying strips self adhesive tape that looks like emery paper. It is made for the job and can be can be purchased from most ship chandlers or on-line. Choice of colours and widths abvailable, but I have used inch wide black. Sticks really well to the varnish and looks a very neat job.
Regards, Dafydd W1491
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On 31/01/2021 12:09, Martin via groups.io wrote:
I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible?
There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears.
I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best?
Regarding staining - I've restored a couple of boats, and when doing the work I have a tendency to try to get everything perfect and like new. However, once the boat is in service I actually prefer the bits where I couldn't get staining out. It feels like those bits have more personality and history. So personally I'd get everything stripped and solid but not worry about staining. It will look nice under your new finish.
I'm a big fan of Le Tonkinois varnish () - I can get a lovely tough finish fairly easily which keeps the weather out for ages. It also doesn't smell too bad when it is drying. Main downside is it can easily take a couple of days to dry per coat which is frustrating.
Cheers
Martin
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
Hello Dave
Ensure that you don’t put any tension on the shrouds with the thwart off as it plays an important part in the overall structure.Tension without thwart can in some cases lead to strain,cracks on hull.
Take your time as any mishaps will be staring in your face every time you sail,ie top side.
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On 30 Jan 2021, at 15:52, Dave via < dkellygb+wanderer@...> wrote: Hello,
In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards.? I have attached a photo.<dummyfile.0.part>
Does anybody know what kind of wood this is?
I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible?
There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears.
I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best?
Thanks!
Dave
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
I like your idea about not getting too obsessive about the staining.? It's really the ends which are the worst and they are not too visibile.
Thanks everybody for the tips!
‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐
I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and
resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to
remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible?
There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really
visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I
am all ears.
I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and
floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the
floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there
are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best?
Regarding staining - I've restored a couple of boats, and when doing the
work I have a tendency to try to get everything perfect and like new.
However, once the boat is in service I actually prefer the bits where I
couldn't get staining out. It feels like those bits have more
personality and history. So personally I'd get everything stripped and
solid but not worry about staining. It will look nice under your new finish.
I'm a big fan of Le Tonkinois varnish
() - I can get a lovely
tough finish fairly easily which keeps the weather out for ages. It also
doesn't smell too bad when it is drying. Main downside is it can easily
take a couple of days to dry per coat which is frustrating.
Cheers
Martin
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
I replaced my thwart by laminating 3 layers of 6mm marine ply with epoxy, using a block in the middle to give the correct curvature. Then painted it with epoxy. For the floorboards, it's worth painting the edges and outside inch on the bottom of the boards with epoxy before varnishing, this wall male them last longer. As an alternative to a varnish additive, you can buy rolls of grip tape in B and Q. Picture below. Not the clearest, but you can see the tape on the boards. Other than the epoxy edges, floorboards have 4 coats of yacht varnish.
Jonathan Daniel
On Sunday, 31 January 2021, 10:42:03 GMT, Dave via groups.io <dkellygb+wanderer@...> wrote:
Hello, In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards.? I have attached a photo.  Does anybody know what kind of wood this is? I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible? There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears. I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best? Thanks! Dave
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible?
There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears.
I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best?
Regarding staining - I've restored a couple of boats, and when doing the work I have a tendency to try to get everything perfect and like new. However, once the boat is in service I actually prefer the bits where I couldn't get staining out. It feels like those bits have more personality and history. So personally I'd get everything stripped and solid but not worry about staining. It will look nice under your new finish. I'm a big fan of Le Tonkinois varnish () - I can get a lovely tough finish fairly easily which keeps the weather out for ages. It also doesn't smell too bad when it is drying. Main downside is it can easily take a couple of days to dry per coat which is frustrating. Cheers Martin
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Re: Wooden thwart and floorboards
On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 02:41 AM, Dave wrote:
In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards.? I have attached a photo
Hi Dave As you have the thwart out of the boat I would use a varnish stripper to remove the old surface. This would remove the possibility or any accidentiy scorching the wod's surface with the heat gun unless you are experienced usin such a gun. Obviously take all necessary precautions when using a varnish stripper such as Nitromores.
The wood is Marine Play I believe. If staining concerns you you could try a wood bleach in and inconspicuous area.
You can get non-slip additives for varnish such as Internation Paints version They also sell products [Interdeck] pre-mixed with a non-slip additive as this .
Hope this helps
Terry W863
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Wooden thwart and floorboards
Hello, In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards.? I have attached a photo.  Does anybody know what kind of wood this is? I would like to remove the old varnish and make it as pretty and resilient as possible.? My plan was to use a heat gun and scraper to remove the old stuff.? Does that sound sensible? There is a bit of water staining at each end but it isn't really visible inside the boat; but, if you have suggestions to fix that, I am all ears. I would like some advice on what to use to treat the thwart and floorboards.? I assume that I can't have anything too slippery or the floor would become unsafe.? A friend recommended Epifanes but there are lots of different products.? What do you think would be best? Thanks! Dave
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Re: Refurbishing the inside of the hull
To me that looks like it has had a 'gel wash', where gelcoat is mixed with a little wax and painted over the original finish. The bits not flaked off don't look smooth enough to be moulded, where as the gel underneath looks much smoother and my guess would be thats the original finish.? Mine has unfortunately had a similar thing done internally, luckily only below floorboard level as movement generally causes it to crack & flake. If there is any dampness or insufficient key the wash will also not adhere very well. This may be your issue as I can't see the thwart flexing much but mine is wooden so I'm only guessing.
Did the jet wash get much more off ?? careful scraping with something suitable may help if it's loose too, short of removing it and starting again it may be that wet sanding will smooth / fair the solid patched into the gel underneath?
Difficult to help too much without seeing and feeling what its like in reality I'm afraid
Pete
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Re: Refurbishing the inside of the hull
Dave
I'm no expert on GRP but I know it is possible to paint on gel
coat after you have cleaned up the surface.? You won't get as good
a finish as a boat out of the mold, but it will be better than the
flaking you currently have.? I would try in one area first, remove
us much of the flaking and sand to get the best surface you can,
then paint on one or more layers of gel coat.? Matching the colour
so the transition fro new to old won't be easy.
Good luck
Mike
On 22/01/2021 17:52, Dave via groups.io
wrote:
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The hull of W537 is in really good condition if you look at the
outside.? Inside, however, has areas where it looks like the
gelcoat is flaking off.? It seems to me that this is cosmetic but
I am not sure.? See the photo below:
I was planning to use a pressure washer to clean up the inside and
remove as much of the flaking stuff as possible.? My question is,
how much should I remove and what should I replace it with?
Thanks!
Dave
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Re: Refurbishing the inside of the hull
I've added this kind of edging to mine in places, where the GRP edge is chipped or damaged. Just tidies it up a bit. You can order it in rolls on Ebay. I would take it off, sort out the rest, then decide if you want to replace it or not.
Many thanks,
Jonathan.
On Saturday, 23 January 2021, 09:27:57 GMT, Mike Bennett <mjb1416@...> wrote:
Dave
I don’t have that grey edging on my boat and can’t recall seeing on any others. I would remove it and tidy up the GRP.?
Regards
Mike
On 23 Jan 2021, at 01:17, Dave via groups.io <dkellygb+wanderer@...> wrote:
?Hi, The weekend project is to work on the inside of the hull of W537.? The first question is there seems to be this grey edging around the sharp edges of the hull.? See the photo: <w537-1.png> As you can see, this edging is knackered and ugly.? My question is what do I replace it with or should I just take it off and round off the GRP? If you want to see more hi-res images, they can be found here: I'll ask other questions in different messages. Thanks! Dave
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Dave