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Hi I have one of the inflatable flotation pads that fit in a pocket at the top of the main sail to help prevent a capsize turning into a complete inversion. It was supplied by Anglo Marine over 20

Thanks for the suggestion John. In fact I have already emailed Porters. Great minds, eh? Sent: 28 April 2021 15:35 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [wanderer] Gelcoat RAL numbers I suggest a word

I suggest a word with Ian Porter might produce the information that you need. Regards John R W1518

Hi all I have Wanderer 1428, built by Anglo Marine in 1998. I want to do a couple of minor hull repairs and wonder if anyone has any records about the colours (RAL numbers) used by Anglo Marine? The

Thanks Anna and Pete for your suggestions. I had thought about Plastidip but I believe it is “removable” and doesn’t produce a very thick coating, so probably not up to the job. But I think

would something like the Plasticote / Plastidip type of rubber paints work on the roller ?? I'm assuming your rollers are metal not rubber already ..... regards Pete

Hi John I can offer a solution I've seen which may help you. Attaching a length of carpet round and across the roller should protect the bottom of the boat. I hope you’ve had loads of helpful

Hi All My launch trolley has got a but rusty in places so I have painted it with 2 coats of Galvafroid followed by Hammerite special metals primer and top coat of Hammerite. I'll also put a coating of

Hello Dave Don’t put any tension on the shrouds whilst the thwart is off. The thwart is an integral part of structural rigidity,in some cases the hull can be warped with shroud tension. Out of

Just an update, I removed all the varnish, prepared the wood and have used Le Tonk as suggested by Martin.? After three coats, it looks great!? I am going to do another coat this evening and

Hi Martin, Don't know about the thwart, but I have replaced bottom boards and varnished them with yacht varnish to waterproof them and look good. I made them skid proof by applying strips self

Hello Dave Ensure that you don’t put any tension on the shrouds with the thwart off as it plays an important part in the overall structure.Tension without thwart can in some cases lead to

I like your idea about not getting too obsessive about the staining. It's really the ends which are the worst and they are not too visibile. Thanks everybody for the tips! ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐

I replaced my thwart by laminating 3 layers of 6mm marine ply with epoxy, using a block in the middle to give the correct curvature. Then painted it with epoxy. For the floorboards, it's worth

Regarding staining - I've restored a couple of boats, and when doing the work I have a tendency to try to get everything perfect and like new. However, once the boat is in service I actually prefer

Hi Dave As you have the thwart out of the boat I would use a varnish stripper to remove the old surface. This would remove the possibility or any accidentiy scorching the wod's surface with the heat

Hello, In my refurbishment project for W537, I need to address the thwart and floorboards.? I have attached a photo. Does anybody know what kind of wood this is? I would like to remove the old

To me that looks like it has had a 'gel wash', where gelcoat is mixed with a little wax and painted over the original finish. The bits not flaked off don't look smooth enough to be moulded, where as

Dave I'm no expert on GRP but I know it is possible to paint on gel coat after you have cleaned up the surface.? You won't get as good a finish as a boat out of the mold, but it will be better than

I've added this kind of edging to mine in places, where the GRP edge is chipped or damaged. Just tidies it up a bit. You can order it in rolls on Ebay. I would take it off, sort out the rest, then