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Greetings PCB-Gcode Community, I want to thank the admins for the add to the group. I stumbled upon PCB Gcode in a FB group for the Sainsmart 3018 CNC I had picked up for doing home/hobby electronics. Currently I have been experimenting with KiCAD and Fusion 360 Electronics. At the moment I have been using FlatCAM for my milling, but have been having issues. It tends to cut on the inside of the path even when selection default for the cut area. Verified this will diff, visual inspection in Visual Code, and running test on wood blanks. I tested CopperCAM with decent results, but 90 Euros is a bit steep for a hobby. Several people recommended the software in the FB group, and I found my way here. First, I would like to point out the download link in "Files" on the group no longer appears to work. I downloaded the file, opened it, selected the Dropbox link inside, but the page reports that the file no longer exists. I don't know if there is an updated version to download. Second, with Autodesk beginning to migrate Eagle into Fusion 360 as Fusion 360 Electronics, I was wondering if there was any request or plan to migrate support for the ULP files into that as well? I attempted to run the files from the Eagle plugins database for PCB Gcode in Fusion, and they operate, but I get a few errors where PCB Gcode can't access certain file locations, which appear to be outside the tools path hierarchy, which means set up can't complete. Setup shows a blank box where the configs should be based on documentation screenshots. Thanks again, and here is a note on my setup if anyone is interested. Sainsmart 3018 MX3 Mach3 w/ custom VB scripts as M-code to fix known USB to Serial probe command issues Autoleveller AE KiCAD or Fusion 360 Electronics -> FlatCAM (for the moment, may be switching to Eagle if necessary)

Let’s assume you have a working CNC machine that you’ve just acquired, but that you know very little about CNC. Let’s further assume it is a mill and that you will be focused on cutting metal. You’re ready to start milling custom chopper parts, build a tool changer, or scratch build a Colt 1911 handgun. With CNC, you can build almost anything and you’re chomping at the bit to get started on your pet projects. Not so fast! Remember, you just got the machine and you’re a beginner. You’re not ready for those projects yet.If you have some idea how to make your first CNC parts, charge ahead with these 10 suggestions. Here are 10 things you should focus on to maximize your chances of becoming quickly successful: https://prezhost.com/2020/04/24/10-things-beginning-cnc-milling-machine-users-need-to-succeed/

Hi, I have been following this group for a long time but havent embraced gCode yet. I am working towards bringing up a Roland Modela MDX-15 with pcb GCode. Has anyone in this group used integrated pcb gcode workflow to run with the Roland Model MDX-15? I am an embedded developer, and my preference is to implement a stand alone controller to perform leveling, calibration, spooling and job control. Much of my frustration with this engraver is its limited serial interface. I could implement a PC app in python, and run the modela with a raw serial port, but my PC spooling experience with this machine has been abysmal. Does anyone in this group have experience with this engraver and can share their experience / workflow ? thank you, Brett Hilder Rural Eastern Ontario, Canada

Hey Guys, Not trying to step on any toes, but I have noticed lately that some of the messages are getting rather lengthy because they have not been trimmed. It would be appreciated if you will do a bit better in this area and trim the previous posting remarks when applicable. I don't think we need remarks from several postings each time in a thread. Thanks in advance for your understanding and help. Art Country Bubba Moderator

Hi guys, I have to do manual tool changes between etching the bottom of a PCB, Drilling, and cutting it out of the larger board. Right now, the G-Code generated by pcb-gcode lifts the cutter to Z 1.000 but doesn't home it. I've spent the morning trying to make this happen by editing user-gcode.h without success. This must somehow be coded into the routine somewhere and maybe it would be better to fix it there. But where and how? I would prefer something like: G00 Z1.0000 G00 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Also the G-Code locates some end of file text at the joint between the trace etching and the spot-drilling but then doesn't show them at the actual end of file. This is not a big deal but I would truly like to no longer have to manually jog the tool in X and Y axes to return it to home. What should I try? best regards to you all, John Ferguson

Hi John, another idea is to add this code to the END_OF_PROGRAM line in the *.pp profile file I'm using. besides this is easy to test. best, john

Hi all! I am trying out Timo Birnstein's version of pcb-gcode and with his implementation of several rounds for milling out the board, I think it is feasible for that task. But where is the definition for the diameter, pcb-gcode is using to calculate the offset to get the correct board dimension? Thanks! Harry

Hello. I love the pcbgcode add on but I can't use it. I have an ATC on my stepcraft 420 machine which is what I use for making boards but it only holds 5 bits and many of the parts I use have several different sized holes. What I have been doing to work around this is exporting the DXF file and importing it into VCarve. Then I use a 1/32 end mill and do a profile cut inside each hole. I'm not much of a coder but I would think that this would be fairly easy enough to add and it would save having to have multiple drills in a rack as well as being able to cut even large holes for mounting etc. Any thoughts?

I want to express my gratitude to Art (aka. Country Bubba) who works behind the scenes approving members, deleting spam, and generally being the captain of this forum. Without him, this group would not exist. Thank you Art! I appreciate what you do! Regards, JJ

Hello comrades! I use pcb-gcode.ulp for some time now and get decent results, probing the copper surface with OpenCNCPilot. But I realized, that the edges of the second+ rounds are not as good as the first one. That is easily explained, since the milling bit is rotating cw and the bit moves in the correct direction for the first run, but in the wrong direction ("climbing") for all sucessive rounds. Now pcb-gcode.ulp has the option to select ?always climb“ to change the direction of the bit on its way, but this option changes the behavior for all rounds. I wanted to implement another option which allows for turning on the ?always climb“ selection only for the second and all following rounds, but I can’t fiddle out where in the code I may attack. So my question to all of you: Can anyone give me a hint, where in the code I can start to look, or even better, where the decision between the first and all successive rounds is made? Explanation: I think I observed, that pcb-gcode does one first round in which it surrounds all traces once, so when stopping after this first round, one would have a functioning board with all traces as expected, but with too narrow trenches. The following rounds only widen the already defined trenches to ease soldering. All following rounds erode the "other side" of the trenches but this happens in "climb mode", resulting in not so good edges. So I consider it as good practise to change the moving direction of those following rounds to make them again "normal". Thanks in advance! Harry

Hi all, at the risk of slightly hijacking the thread: Are there any specific recommendations for a *slightly* higher-class CNC mill? If going from the initially asked US$200 budget to, say, $1500 to $2000 -- are there any specific devices that people have good experience with? Stepcraft D series was mentioned earlier on in this thread and looks like a solid choice at first glance to me; are there other opinions, or any other recommendations? When doing a Google search for Stepcraft (not specifically related to PCBs), X-Carve sometimes comes up as a direct counter-suggestion -- any experiences with that? I guess I'm looking for something that may take some initial effort to set up (a kit is definitely OK and, in fact, preferred; and I don't mind doing some additional modifications/adjustments), but would be looking for something that after the initial setup is done, produces a usable board in a matter of minutes (or tens of minutes), not hours and without the need for continuous fiddling with. Many thanks in advance, -Carsten

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-------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: the perimeter cutter question Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 23:19:29 -0500 From: john <jferg977@...> To: [email protected] Oops,' There is a photo of an earlier incarnation of my pcb etching setup attached to my first post. It shows the first shot at the idea which was MDF, not HDPE. the current version is, indeed HDPE, but I haven't taken any photos of it yet. john