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Hello forum members Cover photo August 2021 shows a 125 mm dia chcuk (nominal 5") fitted with master jaws . These were machined using phosphor bronze (PB) material. The slave jaws are bolted and positioned for accurate location with dowel pins and tenons onto the front of the master jaws. Intially I 3D printed a set from CAD drawings to prove out the CNC (g code) scroll development, then cut a set in aluminium before finally making a set in PB. There is a full set of articles of manufacture in Home Shop Machinist and I am sure if you contact George Bullis (editor) he will assist in back issues of these. I made soft jaws for 80 mm 100 mm dia also. Attached a couple of photos. Many thanks and hope of interest. -- John

Hello, All, I don't know how many of you live within driving distance of Central New Jersey, but I thought I would post this here first. I have a machine stand that was given to me by a friend. I had planned to use it in a project that never materialized. I am in the process of cleaning out my shop to accommodate my new mill, which I plan to CNC, and the stand has to go. As it was given to me, I am going to pay the favor forward and offer it free to anyone who is able to come pick it up. It needs a paint job but is otherwise in pretty good shape. Full approximate dimensions (measured by me with a tape measure) are included in the sketches, along with some photos, below. As an overview, the total height is 25" and the finished surface on which the equipment would mount is 13 1/2" wide by 15" deep. It weighs maybe 60-70 pounds. I was able to manhandle it up out of my basement by myself, but just barely. Either send me a PM or post here if you are interested. Thanks for reading! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in. EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.

Hello, If you are concerned about an excessive number of emails from DH or other IO Groups, you can change your email delivery from "Individual Messages" to "Digest". You will then receive one email every 12 posts, or one email per day (if there are less than 12 new posts) rather than 12 separate emails. Select "Subscription", then make one of the choices below. I personally use "Full-Featured Digest" and am satisfied with it. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in. EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.

Hello, All, I see from the lack of posts that we've all been busy with getting back to our lives as the COVID pandemic seems to gradually be coming under control. I must admit that it feels good to eat in an actual restaurant and meet friends face to face after such a long hiatus! I have been considering doing an CNC conversion to my mini-mill for a while. Though I am fairly happy with my current mill, there are some weaknesses: rack and pinion drive for the Z-axis, a poor gib arrangement that requires frequent adjusting, and no quill, to name a few. So, after some research, I purchased the Grizzly M1116 mini-mill. I am a bit excited, as evidenced by the fact that I changed the cover photo to an image of this mill! It has a Z-axis lead screw drive, tapered gibs, a quill, and built in DROs. You can review the full spec here. I purchased the Grizzly stand with it, as well. Unfortunately, a knee injury has me sidelined at the present so it is sitting in my garage, waiting for me to arrange transport to my basement. All I can do is look inside the crate! I know that a number of you have done CNC conversions, and would like to ask what CNC hardware/controller you use and what you consider its advantages and disadvantages? As usual with me, I am sure that the conversion will take a while. I am not known for my rapid completion of projects! So I will keep the project status updated here. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in. EDWARD'S LAW: It works even better if you turn it on.

Are there any decent CNC capable mini-mills that won't break the bank? I'm pretty sure I'm not willing to spend the time learning how to convert a standard mill, some of you guys have really amazed me with your conversions. Thanks, Michael

A very useful "digital tool" to add onto the quill of the lathe tailstock. readily available DRO as used on Weiss and Grizzly milling heads. and reasonably priced. Photo shows that I also added a bracket and threaded rod to the mill spindle to use a a quill stop. The stop threaded rod is an old lathe cross slide 10 mm x 1 mm LH thread, the nut is one of my old conning tower nuts. TS just needs a mounting or a horse shoe bracket made to attach to the side body of the TS You could also use an old pair of DRO vernier and modify to suit, chop off the legs and make a bracket to clamp around th equill. Excellent for drilling and reaming blind holes to "real" specific depths. The original TS quill does have depth lines engraved but I find useless. I will be preparing in a few days a post on my mods to the tailstock angular setting, again the as "original supplied" Real Bull method IMHO very useless and iffy. there method when the TS is moved swings in an arc if you are lucky. My method allows for side movement at 90 degrees to the bed. This will be under #lathe mods. Hope you find of interest. -- John

I still find it strange to call it Constant Surface Speed when the speed is not constant. I saw an ad for a $500,00 lathe that programmable variable spindle speed was a big part of their promotion, I cannot remember the lathe name. Ralph -- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Charlie suggested I post my question here as well as the 7x12 forum. I'm thinking about making a swing-up tool holder to facilitate threading ops and am wondering if any folks here have made one, and, if so, if they have any "I'd do it differently next time" observations. Thanks! Mark

As a post with an interest in the swinging tool holder is current, I will include another use of this tool. Short history, a friend of mine was building an outside BBQ plus bar. The bar support wall was built in concrete with the ends of wine and beer bottles placed in between the cement much like a stain glass window effect. The trick was how do we cut up to 100 plus bottle ends without numerous breakages and receiving serious damage to our hands from splintered glass. The answer at the time was the use of my swinging tool holder to score the circular score line pattern first. The bottles were held in a 7 x lathe using soft jaws, supported at the neck with a spring loaded revolving tailstock center. As commercial bottles are not truly concentric, so by hand cranking them in a clockwise direction, a simple round glass cutter was put into the swinging toolholder and pushed against the bottle to create the score line. The "swing" allowed a score line to be produced 360 degrees by applying gentle hand pressure on the tool, see photo of a handle on the tool holder. The arm of the swinging toolholder followed the eccentricity. also see the score line in a photo. Without the swinging holder but by using a conventional solid toolholder it was not possible due to the eccentricity of the bottles to have a 100% radial score. and dangers would be imminent, This would also be a real safety problem when splitting the bottle ends off in a second operation. read below. After this "scoring" of the bottles, it was a simple dip of the bottles just past the score line in a large bucket of boiling hot water using an external gas stove, then immediately the bottles were dipped into a bucket of ice water, this expansion and contraction of the glass severed the bottles at the score line, almost a 85% success rate, without serious cuts to hand and minimal fragments of glass at the split line. See attached photos not in any order. Hope of interest. John -- John

Hello, All, I have several ER-32 collet chucks of different types; one for my mini-lathe, one for an R8 spindle to match my mini-mill, and a 2MT for my rotary table. These all use the same M40-1.5 collet nut, which is basically available everywhere. I recently purchased and received an ER-32 Spin Indexer from Little Machine Shop, for use on my mill. To my surprise, I noticed that the collet nut threads are M40-1.0, not M40-1.5. I spent a little time searching the internet and could not find an ER-32 M40-1.0 collet nut. My concern is where I will obtain replacement nuts if and when this becomes necessary. I will email LMS and ask if they carry these collet nuts, but am concerned that I may be out of luck in the future. Does anyone know if M40-1.0 is used routinely on ER-32 collet chucks? Thanks to everyone for their help! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA SATTINGER’S LAW: It works better if you plug it in.

Hello to all forum members and a special apology from me. We have all had ways of dealing with the Covid pandemic, and I had a leaning of being totally inward and introvert with our severe "lockdowns" which were hard and brutal here in Spain. So i became LAZY in my communications. Again I apologise. This normally is not me but I sadly miss the music processions Easter and Xmas and summer fiestas that in the past 14 years I have enjoyed playing my saxophone and being part of the total village atmospheres. Yes it?s been hard 14 months for us all worldwide. But hopefully we are all coming to terms with the severity and dealing with the future sensibly and making the best of life as we know now it. This extra time has kept me very busy in both mind and body to work in my machine shop and be productive, and hoping this has been the same for a lot of us. So no excuse for not having the spare time unless you want to be in Gods waiting room, and this is not any of my members of this forum. So, my Real Bull 7" mini lathe was never supplied with a 3 arm steady, 2 arm yes but I needed to replace th finger end to rollers to roller bearings. If I have put the photo?s in the correct order, ??m then you will follow my logic in making a 3 arm lathe steady, can be good for holding up to 50 mm dia bar x 230 mm long, nd that is quite significant for a mini lathe. photo1 152 mm dia alloy I call a biscuit , held in the chuck with soft jaws, standard hard jaws will not be possible. faced both sides to 20 mm thick. Topped to 150 mm dia. Facing using the CSS, constant surface feed, IE the spindle speed increases towards the the spindle center line, see CSS in the old forum posts. Bored a 40 mm dia manufacturing hole. Bored a 40 mm spigot hole in my mill tooling plate and drilled in 4 x manf securing holes that pick up off existing bolt holes in the table. photo2 The biscuit was then sliced in half on my favourite tool, a power saw I built, and uses just hacksaw blades. 80% of the parts I used to build this came from a Chinese cheapo drill press. Saw Drawings from myfordboy. Thanks Dave Abbot. photos 3 4 5 .the half biscuits profile milled using my mini Weiss mill and the DDCS v3.1 CNC system, as just recently posted to Tamra. photos 7 8 9 10 11 12 check fitting and making up the arms etc etc. All simple stuff. The brass Mecano plate I made many years ago when building Minnie a model steam tractor and bolts to the bed and th steady bolts to that. Fortunately more good luck than judgement, the total stack up height of the steady with mecano plate was dead on the c/line of the lathe spindle Phew. photo 13 A check fit of a 50 mm dia bung held in the chuck jaws and the 3 arm steady, fingers and arms adjusted accordingly. photo 14 A 52 mm dia bar held chuck end. photo 15 A manf rail turned in held by the steady to just clean up the bar to round. photo 16 The steady then is repositioned over the rail and arms again adjusted accordingly. Then a trial facing and surfacing cuts were done to prove out the steady. photo 17 Especially for Tamra The DDCS CNC Ver 3.1 giving an image of the shape it will cut before starting up the machine. Very useful in the past I can assure you. better Oops. before the cutters enter into oblivion LOL. Photo 18 The DDCS Ver 3.1 coordinates versus the Blu tooth DRO, You will see a difference of X by a minimal amount, this is where the backlash in the screw which is read off the DRO, but it catches up. It is the DDCS that is th master in control. All DDCS 4 axis have backlash settings, along with 200 settings that can define the machine you have and accuracy you need. Hope all this meets with members approval, if you do not understand then reply ??? LOL possibly a cup of coffee to digest all the photos. Thanks -- John