On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 04:41 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Charlie, and others. Why the spindle encoder? Is a multicount required to get the spindle speed?

?

I have seen lots of RPM devices that used one pulse others got their accuracy with 8 pulses.

?

So is 600 or 1200 or even 2400 pulses really required?

?

Is there documentation on the software you are using?

?

Hi, Ralph,

The spindle encoder is crucial so the ELS controller knows how fast to drive the lead screw at any given instant.? I usually thread now using a hand crank; the change gears ensure that the lead screw turns at the right speed to match my spindle speed.? But without the gears, how is the lead screw speed to be determined?? In ELS, it is calculated by the controller as a specific ratio of lead screw RPM to spindle RPM.? The encoder is how we determine spindle RPM so we can set lesd screw RPM.

In general, (and I believe in this case), the fewer pulses per revolution, the more that you are seeing an average RPM, rather than an accurate one.? This is fine if all you are doing is reading the RPM on a display.? But with ELS and a very low count encoder, the spindle might be able to make a significant change in speed before the processor "knows" about it (because it cannot update more often than once per pulse), and can adjust the lead screw and or cross-slide motors to match.? This would result in uneven threads and poorer finishes.

At least, this is my understanding with the current implementation.
?
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

The consew motor is on the head not the X axis. ??
Any chance of photos of your machine, this would help I am sure to see what you actually have.
Thanks
--
John

Thanks that is why I asked! I do not want to turn dials. I do not need CNC, well at this point I do not need CNC.

I just want motorized X, Y and Z.

The

I have outfitted DRO on all of the axis? and installed a .

Ralph

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 4:00 PM Richard <edelec@...> wrote:

Those are for the X axis feed on a mill. IMHO far too big for the
Clausing 8520.
What do you want them for? You said X Y Z which indicates CNC. If so
these are totally wrong, as are the geared motors you discussed.
Richard

On 21/08/2019 19:58, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> Should I use these type of motors
> <>
> for my Clausing X, Y and Z? Or should I just hacktogether some other
> odd motors? I do have some Gear Reduced Brusless DC motors top speed
> 18 rpm, also I do have one Brushless DC GR motor that came off a
> garage door opener I can't remeber the RPM.
>
> Any ways these motors
> <>
> are designed for a Bridgeport Mill so I would have to make some
> modifications, not sure why they would not work for Y and Z but are
> listed as for X.
>
> I hope this post is within the scope of the forum.
>
> Ralph
> --
> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> printer
>

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Those are for the X axis feed on a mill. IMHO far too big for the
Clausing 8520.
What do you want them for? You said X Y Z which indicates CNC. If so
these are totally wrong, as are the geared motors you discussed.
Richard

On 21/08/2019 19:58, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> Should I use these type of motors
> <>
> for my Clausing X, Y and Z? Or should I just hacktogether some other
> odd motors? I do have some Gear Reduced Brusless DC motors top speed
> 18 rpm, also I do have one Brushless DC GR motor that came off a
> garage door opener I can't remeber the RPM.
>
> Any ways these motors
> <>
> are designed for a Bridgeport Mill so I would have to make some
> modifications, not sure why they would not work for Y and Z but are
> listed as for X.
>
> I hope this post is within the scope of the forum.
>
> Ralph
> --
> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> printer
>

[Edited Message Follows]

Hello, All,

In order to aid in searching for a given subject, it would be helpful if you could include one or more of the following hashtags at the end of your topic line.

#ELS - Posts related to ELS (Electronic Lead Screw)
#GR - Posts related to Gear Reduction for the mini-lathe
#CSS - Posts related to CSS (Constant Speed Control) in lathes
#3D - Posts related to 3D printing
#CNC - Posts related to CNC (Computer Numerical Control)
#DRO - Posts related to DROs (Digital Readouts)

I will add this to some of our existing posts to aid in future searches.? Thanks!
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

On 8/20/19 8:50 AM, Bruce J wrote:
>> On Aug 20, 2019, at 1:05 AM, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote:
>>
>> STL of the 48T pulley with a 28mm bore if anyone wants to have a go at printing.
> A useful tip: McMaster-Carr offers STL files of virtually every mechanical component they sell, including gears.
>

?? While I applaud them for their effort, my only issue is that
McMaster-Carr only has a limited selection of tooth counts for the
various pitches they sell.

?? I haven't used it, but there is a gear generator in Fusion 360 that
is supposed to be quite good.? There are plenty of tutorials available,
including Youtube.

---Mark

Hi John!

I bought a couple of packages of 12"x12" mirror tiles and I was using those but it makes it hard to get a good picture from my camera with all the reflections. I sandblasted one of them a long time ago and I tried it but I don't remember what I didn't like about it. Ultimately I opted for a sheet of regular glass and cut it to the size I need, but I still have that sandblasted mirror tile so I'll give it another go.

I was also going to suggest PETG for gears. Most of my filament is PETG. It's easy to use but it tends to be stringy and that's one of the reasons why I put a camera on the x-axis carriage a few months back. I've seen the filament bubbling at the tip of the nozzle with PETG before but didn't connect the dots as it being wet, and it still prints beautifully, so I would say that PETG doesn't absolutely need to be dried unless you are after maximum performance. But the Alloy 910...the first thing I noticed is that right after I changed filament, I extruded 150mm to flush out the hotend, but then it just kept extruding/oozing out of the nozzle. As I'm watching it, it looked like there were lumps in it. I always watch the first layer, all the way through...if I don't have an absolutely perfect first layer, I cancel the print and start over. The first layer looked lumpy, like the material hadn't melted completely. I dried it in the food dehydrator/filament dryer at max (150-160F) until the next day (about 18 hrs) and then fed it out of the dryer into the printer. I printed it while the dryer was running. I don't like to run the dryer in the room because it gets too hot in there after awhile so usually I put the dryer outside while drying, but I put up with it in this case. When it's dry it comes out of the nozzle just like creamy toothpaste. I didn't think I would like printing it with a raft, but the raft prints like a plush down comforter and peels away easily, leaving a nice surface finish.

Speaking about surface finishes...I printed the CR-10s camera mount with support and it produces a woven kind of finish, not entirely unattractive...



Here's the other side (Hatchbox Black PETG):




#3D