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Re: Driver surfaces ? Brass or NS ?


Tom Knowles
 

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Mark, It occurs to me you may have a bad HH motor if the problem is not traction related. Do I correctly understand its a traction problem? We may be able to quantify your problem:

An interesting generalization that may translate into understanding your problem, is on rating a full size steam engine. I think it can translate to model engines (without traction tires). It's "factor of adhesion", expressed as a percentage. If an engine has specified a factor of adhesion, it is usually on the order of 25%. So if the engine weighs 100,000 lbs, then expect no more than? 25,000 lbs of "drawbar pull" (sometimes called Tractive effort, or "TE") from it. This was measured by Dynamometer cars in the old days, with other computations complicating the use of the car and its results!

?I have experimented a bit with model TE, and found though the margin for error is greater since we're dealing with smaller numbers and less accurate systems to measure it, the numbers translate. If the engine weighs 16 0z, expect 4 oz TE. To measure this, I have used a postal scale, set on its side and zeroed for that position to verify this. Being a static measurement, its crude, but informative.? One could measure the voltage and current during the session, but until anything moves, HP cannot be computed. If the engine slips in the test, then TE will be lower at that point since sliding friction is less than stopped friction. Incidentally, that is partly why steam engines at low speed have difficulty starting/accelerating sometimes, the pulses of power from each stroke unevenly apply force to the adhesion, a momentary overcoming of the adhesion will cause the wheel to slip. Electric power is smooother, and the high current required by as motor at stall translates to "force". This is an excellent situation for getting started and should be the case with electric driven model steamers.

Try making a test track, set level, and employ some sort of measuring system to compare both your L's and the H and see what happens.....can you do this in DC and measure the voltage and current? Another way may be to simply raise one end of the test track and see what grade the engines will pull before slipping. If the H9 slips early, then I think you're still looking at traction problems.

I would love to have a working dynamometer car that could radio out the results of all the parameters of a dynamic test in scale, but have lost too many brain cells to carry out that project at this age.. It may already be available in DCC if we knew how to read out the motor's back emf and load from the decoders that have this feature.

Anyway, I think you are in the right forum to figure this out, bear with us!
Tom Knowles
NOTE NEW ADDRESS:  tomk@...
On 1/6/2013 12:44 PM, twilight022765 wrote:

?

John, one of the guys in my earlier posts responded with a product he recommends called Flitz, which I just order last night on Amazon. My drivers on my H9 are brass(probably worn down to the brass???). I have used Goo Gone to clean them. But, as he mentioned about his club, my club's rails can get quite dirty and maybe the Goo Gone isn't doing the trick anymore. So, I want to give that a try. The reason for the question was, my L1, that is set up the same way as my H9 is operating rather nicely and has the NS drivers. It's like some one put a resistor in line with the motor on the H9. This will be my last try to improve the conductivity before I add the pickups.

Thanks again to everyone who has offered their helpful advice.

Mark

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "John Hagen" wrote:
>
> Well I can't say much about brass vs NS but I can speak from experience
> about the difference between sintered metal and NS. By actual comparison NS
> has comparatively poor adhesion on NS track.
>
>
>
> My "Athearn" Baldwin S-12 with an Cary built (lead-antimony) Cary Alco S-2
> shell along with added lead, a Sagami 2032 motor w/brass flywheels and Ernst
> gears was able to easily switch a cut of 56 5 oz. 40 ft. freight cars, all
> with C.V. trucks on my friends (Cal) layout. After the switch to NWSL NS
> wheels it hard a hard time moving anything over 40 of the cars in the yard.
> That coincided with Cal's change to Command Control but that really had
> nothing to do with it as the problem was wheel slip.
>
>
>
> Although not a direct comparison, my thoughts are that brass wheels would
> have similar traction to the sintered metal. Having started on HO around
> 1949 I have much experience with brass drive wheels.
>
>
>
> So far as cleanliness if one's track is clean kept brass and sintered metal
> work just fine. So far as electrical pick-up all will work okay but I agree
> that NS gets a bit of the nod here. A more important consideration to me is
> having reasonable clean rail without being so clean and dry that arcing is
> promoted.
>
>
>
> John Hagen
>
>
>
> From: yardbirdtrains@... [mailto:yardbirdtrains@...]
> On Behalf Of Long95209
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 10:55 AM
> To: yardbirdtrains@...
> Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Driver surfaces ? Brass or NS ?
>
>
>
>
>
> Batter up group ! There's been a LOT of discussion about whether or not
> there is a great deal of difference in materials , BTW Bowser had both
> surfaces [?] the majority of my collection is brass . Does it make a big
> difference ? I don't know for sure , but if the surfaces arean't clean ?
> Trouble ! Please jump in group ! Henry H.
>


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