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Re: Driver surfaces ? Brass or NS ?


 

Goo Gone cleans and leaves an insulating layer behind. I've used it and seen the layout go dead as a result the following morning.

Do try any kind of tuner cleaner on those wheels. Or go to one of the good hardware stores, auto parts supply stores, or marine supply stores and get a can of the electronic cleaner and conditioner you find there.

Most of the time its a CRC product

Advanced Auto Parts has " CRC QD? Electronic Cleaner" for a bit over $7 in a large spray can. Wet a Q-tip with it and wipe the driver tires and other electrical surfaces with it.

You can do the same with your rails [wipe about 6-inches every several feet apart then drive around the layout] and you'll see a marked operating improvement in a matter of seconds.

Do the complete electrical path on the loco's and your track switch points and you'll feel like you have gold plated electrical contacts on everything. That includes even old zamak slabs that are part of the electrical path on old models, treat contact points and any screws that are part of the electrical paths.

Case in point, it makes an ancient Athearn 0-4-2t Little Monster that is largely a zamak electrical path and has sat for 20 years, run like a new Kato after that treatment.... that and a wisp of fresh oil and axle lube in the right places. This is my personal experience with the stuff and that model as well as many others. Models that simply never were known to run decently in the first place.

Don't overlook places like the body pads under the tender trucks and the place where the washer like connector wire goes between the locomotive and the tender. Back off such screws and wipe both the threads and the contact area under the screw heads and the connector 'washer', then snug down to working positions.

I'm certain you will be amazed at how much better the model operates when you have conditioned the electrical points that have become oxidized and thus somewhat insulated over time........ with just a certain fluid.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA

On Jan 6, 2013, at 12:44 PM, twilight022765 <twilight022765@...> wrote:

John, one of the guys in my earlier posts responded with a product he recommends called Flitz, which I just order last night on Amazon. My drivers on my H9 are brass(probably worn down to the brass???). I have used Goo Gone to clean them. But, as he mentioned about his club, my club's rails can get quite dirty and maybe the Goo Gone isn't doing the trick anymore. So, I want to give that a try. The reason for the question was, my L1, that is set up the same way as my H9 is operating rather nicely and has the NS drivers. It's like some one put a resistor in line with the motor on the H9. This will be my last try to improve the conductivity before I add the pickups.

Thanks again to everyone who has offered their helpful advice.

Mark

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "John Hagen" wrote:

Well I can't say much about brass vs NS but I can speak from experience
about the difference between sintered metal and NS. By actual comparison NS
has comparatively poor adhesion on NS track.



My "Athearn" Baldwin S-12 with an Cary built (lead-antimony) Cary Alco S-2
shell along with added lead, a Sagami 2032 motor w/brass flywheels and Ernst
gears was able to easily switch a cut of 56 5 oz. 40 ft. freight cars, all
with C.V. trucks on my friends (Cal) layout. After the switch to NWSL NS
wheels it hard a hard time moving anything over 40 of the cars in the yard.
That coincided with Cal's change to Command Control but that really had
nothing to do with it as the problem was wheel slip.



Although not a direct comparison, my thoughts are that brass wheels would
have similar traction to the sintered metal. Having started on HO around
1949 I have much experience with brass drive wheels.



So far as cleanliness if one's track is clean kept brass and sintered metal
work just fine. So far as electrical pick-up all will work okay but I agree
that NS gets a bit of the nod here. A more important consideration to me is
having reasonable clean rail without being so clean and dry that arcing is
promoted.

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