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Is there any difference if you add these two lines to setup()? ? ?pinMode(6, INPUT);? ?pinMode(5, INPUT); There shouldn't be, but give it a try and let me know what happens. If you see white

Hi Glen, Were you having the same problem as me? I.e, no frequency change but the LCD indicates the same frequency? How did you figure the resistors were the problem? Is your set working perfectly

Hi Jack, Thanks for the response. I rechecked the pin connections and they are placed right. I replaced the encoder with a new one. No change in the set's behavior. The LCD is still stuck on 7000.10

I don't understand why. Those are pull-up resistors are simply there to make sure the lines don't float. Is this a KY-040 encoder? Jack, W8TEE To: "SoftwareControlledHamRadio@..."

Greetings all, I found I had to remove the surface mount resistors on the back side of the board of the encoder board. Did not see anything about this in any documentation. All working on my end.

Recheck the encoder wiring and make sure you have the Clock and Data lines wired correctly. The Clock line should go to pin 22 on J1 and the Data line to pin 18 on J1. If it still doesn't work, make

I think I put together everything right. All seem to be working except that the frequency doesn't change when I turn the encoder. It is stuck at 7000.10 kHz. Any suggestion? Hiroki AH6CY Sent from my

After I made the offset mod I made two QSO in a row that sure helped. Been thinking that a feature to lock the transmitt frequency would be nice should not be hard to do. I may give it a try a simple

blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } Thanks Greg Marty Sent from Yahoo

Thanks Richard that is a big help, I had the usage of the offset wrong. I will start on the mods today. 73, Ray -K0ZOF

Hello, right out of the gate, the transition frequency of the NTE part is only 2MHz... A non-starter... D882, typical fT=300MHz, looks like higher beta too... Not sure about a higher power

The offset mod was required for my rig. I actually did get 1 QSO in without the offset mod. Man that was painful. The provided sketch had a negative offset configured. I stuck with that. I did adjust

I'm not very experienced at evaluating substitute transistor. I was wondering if anyone thinks a NTE184 would work better than the D882. To me it looks like it will output a little more power. See

I have made a heat sink for the 882 with tin snips and a coke can, it's a big ugly thing looks like a fan lots of surface area. It seems to be running cooler...time will tell.

Just hoping to get some clarification on the offset before I run off and start doing it. First, it seems to me that it is pretty much required? Has anyone been able to QSO without it? Second, when

You don't look for a cooler transistor. Especially if you want four watts out. You need a bigger heatsink, period. Get the one at Radio Shack and if it doesn't work I'll buy it from you and pay

Thanks Jack and Berry, I am using 13.8v changing R1 on the VFO board should lower the drive voltage and reduce the heat. Really don't want to reduce it however, would like 4 watts doubt if I am

The nice big heat sink from Radio Shack works great! On Friday, September 16, 2016, Jack Purdum jjpurdum@... [SoftwareControlledHamRadio] <SoftwareControlledHamRadio@...> wrote:

What input voltage are you running? A lot of people run their 13.8V supply, which is too high. Back it down to 12V and it should run cooler. Also, I had a post a long time ago about cutting up a Coke

I got the forty-9er working my problem was a bad NE612. In tracing it down I came to the conclusion that the picture of the inductor and capacitor on the forty-9er board of the low pass filter in the