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I just bought an '86 S2 27 and the only reservation I had about it is that the mast is keel-stepped. I didn't even know they had made a deck-stepped version till I read this forum. I'm wondering if it's reasonable to convert to deck-stepped. Does the deck-stepped version have a tabernacle? The reason I'm interested is that I would like to be able to trailer my boat up from the coast when a hurricane is approaching, and I'd like to be able to do this without relying on a boatyard to unstep the mast for me. Dick

Charles, Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much. Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

I'd like to replace my tiller, but I'm too busy (lazy) to build one. Do you guys know someone that makes one to fit my boat? Dick

Funkytown just finished her 2,000 mile odyssey from VA to New Mexico. We catch up with her in a few weeks but in the meantime, I thought I'd share this. Our driver weighed his rig and the combined total for my boat and trailer was 7,900. Trailer weight is listed at 1,600 from the manufacturer, which means my boat comes in at a portly 6,300!?!? Manufacturer published weight is supposed to be 5000, right? I have an inboard, roller furling, main and genoa. Basic boat junk onboard (2 X batteries, smallish anchor, grill, bimini, shorepower cord, 4Xbumpers, dock lines, tool box, etc... maybe 300 lbs of stuff?) Diesel tank was half full, water and waste are bone dry. But still, if we say 300 for my junk, 250 for the diesel, that still isn't even close to 1,300! Has anybody else weighed their boat? I need to get a weight on the trailer before I can be completely sure but that will take a while. Or maybe that published weight is with absolutely nothing in or on the boat?

Did i mention i picked up an AutoHelm 800 recently? $80.00 from an older gent at the club. have an existing cantilever mount, tiller bracket and power outlet, but not the cantilever bracket and pushrod extension. i look forward to using it next year...tired of the fire drill when singlehanded and trying to wrestle the main as the boat pirouettes all over the place...

Back in April, I wan not involved in sailing so maybe you guys have seen this but I have a question about it so here is a link to it http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=134291 . Read the letter from Bryan Chong - it's an eye-opener. My question is this: Why is it important to avoid cotton clothing? Everything else he said fit in with what I had learned in the past but this was a surprise to me. I should clarify about not being involved in sailing. During the 70s and 80s I was an avid sailor, owned several boats, sailed Lake Travis, the gulf, and bays. Then a series of injuries and circumstances took me away from sailing. A couple years ago I got a new knee and lost 60 lbs and now we have just bought two boats; an S2 27 and a Rhodes 19. Just so you can tell I'm not a total beginner. Dick

added a DB for entering basic boat info

added a DB for entering basic boat info

This is my third post and should have been my first. Hello, All. I just bought an '86 S2 27 from Jim Johnstone aka maajique in Austin, Tx. I plan to take it to the coast around the Houston area this spring and cruise the bays and sail to Port Isabel in south Texas in the gulf. I'm a great believer in learning from others and will be paying attention to the forum as I learn "all" about my new boat. Dick

I am interested in what you have done to attach a block to the top of the mast for a Spinnaker halyard. I have used the port Genoa halyard but it makes it difficult to do a take down if on the wrong tack. I fabricated a piece of SS angle to attach to the top of the mast but didn't install is because the top plate looked a little light weight for such a load. Mark

I am considering the purchase of a new (to me) boat as a retirement "toy". I have previously owned a 9.2A and a 7.9 Grand Slam. I have lived-aboard a number of other sailboats for over 25 years and cruised extensively. I have a short list of several high quality boats to consider. I would seriously consider a reasonably priced 27. I would prefer that it be the original "A" interior (pre-'86) and also with a 2GM engine, but neither would be a "kill the deal" issue. I am located in the Chesapeake and have no problem with an on-the-water delivery from anywhere on the east Coast. The expense of trucking would have to be taken into account for boats located elsewhere. If you have one or know of someone that may be willing to sell. please contact me.

I have a replacement tiller on my boat that the PO built. It is 39" long, and it is dead straight. Does anyone know the length of the OEM tiller that S2 installed, and if there is any curvature? Although I have a tiller extension, it is still too short for my taste, since I like to steer from a position just aft of the coach house bulkhead. That position moves my weight forward, and balances the boat better. -------------------- Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

Yep, it was inevitable...mid-October means haul-out here in the Midwest. Fortunately, it all went well today. Tomorrow (or Thursday, perhaps) I strip the boat and close her up. Why is it, though, that haul-out in the fall and launch in the spring cause so much stress? ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80

one of my first steps before hauling out is to empty anf flush the head. over the past few weeks i habe been noticing more smell on board but didn't think much about it... boat has been sitting in water past two weeks, and i had used the head....when i came on board this weekend the bowl was nearly full..as if it had backfilled from the tank.. i pumped it back in the tank and pumped in some freshwater and deoderizer..the tanknwas about 1/3rd filled. thinking all is fine, i proceeded to open the holding tank fill cap..which was a bit hard to open for some reason...i finally got it to open...and it slowly started releasing liquid...it stopped and i upon opening the cap saw that it was filled to the top...this is very odd....at any rate i proceeded to pump it out and rhem clsed the cap amd did a fresh water fill and flush...ie, fill the bowl, pump it in the tank..did it a few times..filled it to about 1/3rd or so. upon opening the cap...same thing...sall stream of water...when i waited a sc i opened some more....STUPID idea...as some water came flying out....the side....mess... pumped it out..not much pumped out.... my current thinking is the fent has been clogged amd pumping into tank s building pressure....any thoughts of what else might cause this? if it's the vent, amy ideas of how to attack cleaning it? (note: the pumping action into the tank seems to be a bit harder than i recall in the past...)

1986 S2 27 rigged for Spinnaker, full suite of sails, 2 Yr Old 155 Mylar, 135, Mylar, 100 Dacron, North Norlam Main. Trailer not available without boat but available to Sailboat buyer for $2500. See Pictures on Photos page. As you all know, the S2 is a well built, sweet sailing yacht. Jim@...

Procured a nice Authelm AH 800 micro for $80 from a club member yesterday. Have been monitoring ePray for months when I saw this posted at the club. Was looking for a Simrad as the power plug would have been a match, but i'll retrofit this spring. The PO used a cantilever mount in the combing, unfortunately i dont't have the hardware...i might try to tap a new cantilever bracket or drill a new hole for the mounting pin on the deck aft the turning block. So now two projects so far...

This was easier than I thought. Bilge was pretty clean after the absorbant mats sat for a week... The banjo bolts for both pipes came off easily. I had to remove my raw water intake tube as it was blocking access. The shorter lube pipe had some surface rust along some of its length, and at the port banjo fitting closest to the water pump. But there were no holes. The longer pipe was the problem. As others have said the water seal in the pump fails, causing it to leak, the it drips along the engine until it hits the retaining clip for the longer pipe...that causes water to then drip down the tube. The new pipes arrive unfinished....For the longer pipe I painted with primocon primer and a couple costs of rustoleum...what i had in garage at the time. I plan to cover the pipe with some left over rubber hose. I also did not install the retaining clip i have to clean it as it was still rusty....will reinstall later...for the shorter pipe i smothered the exterior with lancote. Banjo bolts were torqued down to 150 in-lbs. I read somewhere that the if the water pump seals fail on these engines, the pump is designed to leak...not sure if this is urban legend or for real... at any rate i am going to watch that pump like a hawk....and i may stick on some kind of small "dam" just under and to right of the pump on the lower engine block in hopes of diverting any leak straigh down...not sure how to do that... i kept old part as i may go to a shop and see if the can weld new pipes to the banjo fittings as a backup, or simply use flexible break hose or the like.... Ran motor for about 20 min....no leaks..tomorrow i'll see if there is any leakage. hopefully i'm set for a few more years.... Next job after mid Oct haulout is new cutless bearing and dripless stuffing box! That job might be a bit more involved...

j have the infamous leaking oil pipe, discovered tonite after motoring to mooring...and seeing black water in the bilge...ugh...knew it would happen. oil pressure alarm didn't go off, and i didn't have time to check further...suspect it's a slow leak...bit enough to make the water black.. does amy know part numbers for the pipes, and related hardware? assume i need banjo bolt and new washer? or could i reuse the banjo bolt and just get new pipe and washer? thx!

Last year I bought a Harken traveler car, but the catch is I have to replace the track to fit the car (T track). The reason I did this is because one of the rollers for the original Lewmar traveler had broken. Once I took it apart, I saw that the rollers are actually replaceable. Looked on Lewmar's site but couldn't find anything, has anyone else had a problem with or replaced these rollers? I'm 2 hours from the boat for the next year, so if I could get it back to a correctly performing stock setup I can always finish the Harken conversion later once I am closer. Thanks! -Mark

Although this new thread is not S2 27 specific, Bob Taylor mentioned in the engine compartment thread of a few days ago that he had a PSS shaft seal installed on his boat last year, and he hasn't had a drop of water in the bilge (or under the engine?) ever since. Music to my ears. Anyone else here on this list have a PSS shaft seal? I've been thinking about the PSS system since I bought my boat in '08. Bob, what can you tell us about the process? I seem to recall that they are not UNreasonably priced, but did you have it installed, or did you do it yourself? Was it spendy to have it installed? The PSS website (http://www.shaftseal.com/about/installation_videos) makes it look pretty easy for the do-it-yourselfer, but hey, but I'm a sucker and have been fooled before! If I were to do this job--or have it done--I'd want to replace the cutless bearing at the same time, since I'd have the shaft disconnected anyway. My cutless bearing is likely as old as the boat. Hey, you lazy lurkers, chime in! Let's get this party started! ___________________ Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80