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Yep, the pipe and banjo fittings are assembled. My parts manual shows
them in a drawing so I never thought to order otherwise. When they were
out of stock I tried to make the front pipe from 8mm stainless pipe and
the fittings I un-sweated from the old one. After all that aggravation,
and having a weepy joint anyway, the price of the new ones seemed rather
reasonable. The lasting benefit of that project is a leftover piece of
1/4" tubing that fits my dipstick oil pump inlet and reaches to the
bottom of the fuel tank. I've pulled some watery fuel out a couple times
now in the spring.

As for cleaning the bilge, I tried all sorts of soapy stuff early on,
but it was always a mess.
When there was a couple inches of water from the stuffing box and half a
quart of oil from the engine all happening at once, I found that letting
an absorber sheet or two float in there for a few days would get 99.5%
of the oil. Pull the sheets and bag them for disposal. Pump the water
into a bucket, mix in some soap to lather up the last few drops. Correct
me if I have sinned, but this went over the side with no sheen or residue.
Then a pretty simple soap & water scrub out of the bilge was all it
took. I've had a clean sheet under the engine all season now. Just a few
dirty drips from checking the oil.

I remember struggling with wrench clearance... Maybe a short adjustable
opened way up? (I had a hard time finding a metric one...)

This was easier than I thought.

Bilge was pretty clean after the absorbant mats sat for a week...

The banjo bolts for both pipes came off easily. I had to remove my raw water intake tube as it was blocking access.

The shorter lube pipe had some surface rust along some of its length, and at the port banjo fitting closest to the water pump. But there were no holes. The longer pipe was the problem. As others have said the water seal in the pump fails, causing it to leak, the it drips along the engine until it hits the retaining clip for the longer pipe...that causes water to then drip down the tube.

The new pipes arrive unfinished....For the longer pipe I painted with primocon primer and a couple costs of rustoleum...what i had in garage at the time. I plan to cover the pipe with some left over rubber hose. I also did not install the retaining clip i have to clean it as it was still rusty....will reinstall later...for the shorter pipe i smothered the exterior with lancote.

Banjo bolts were torqued down to 150 in-lbs.

I read somewhere that the if the water pump seals fail on these engines, the pump is designed to leak...not sure if this is urban legend or for real...

at any rate i am going to watch that pump like a hawk....and i may stick on some kind of small "dam" just under and to right of the pump on the lower engine block in hopes of diverting any leak straigh down...not sure how to do that...

i kept old part as i may go to a shop and see if the can weld new pipes to the banjo fittings as a backup, or simply use flexible break hose or the like....

Ran motor for about 20 min....no leaks..tomorrow i'll see if there is any leakage. hopefully i'm set for a few more years....

Next job after mid Oct haulout is new cutless bearing and dripless stuffing box! That job might be a bit more involved...




--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@> wrote:

Yep, the pipe and banjo fittings are assembled. My parts manual shows
them in a drawing so I never thought to order otherwise. When they were
out of stock I tried to make the front pipe from 8mm stainless pipe and
the fittings I un-sweated from the old one. After all that aggravation,
and having a weepy joint anyway, the price of the new ones seemed rather
reasonable. The lasting benefit of that project is a leftover piece of
1/4" tubing that fits my dipstick oil pump inlet and reaches to the
bottom of the fuel tank. I've pulled some watery fuel out a couple times
now in the spring.

As for cleaning the bilge, I tried all sorts of soapy stuff early on,
but it was always a mess.
When there was a couple inches of water from the stuffing box and half a
quart of oil from the engine all happening at once, I found that letting
an absorber sheet or two float in there for a few days would get 99.5%
of the oil. Pull the sheets and bag them for disposal. Pump the water
into a bucket, mix in some soap to lather up the last few drops. Correct
me if I have sinned, but this went over the side with no sheen or residue.
Then a pretty simple soap & water scrub out of the bilge was all it
took. I've had a clean sheet under the engine all season now. Just a few
dirty drips from checking the oil.

I remember struggling with wrench clearance... Maybe a short adjustable
opened way up? (I had a hard time finding a metric one...)