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Re: Autotiller

 

absolutely a good point, when I was looking at buying a used autohelm from one of the "old timers" at the club - he told me the same thing...

right now I put the tiller purchase on hold - I think the larger unit makes more sense for the 27 (as was pointed out earlier...) that and I stumbled upon some "vintage" audio equipment recently which required dipping into the boat fund - let me tell you lots of great deals on 30 year old receivers - and turnables....

R

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

A follow-up about tillerpilots...it's pretty obvious, I know, but when you are singlehanding under the guidance of a tillerpilot, if you fall overboard, the boat will simply sail straight away from you. On a large body of water, that can result in a REALLY bad outcome. I am always acutely aware of the danger when I venture onto the foredeck when Tilly is steering, and I am alone (I also wear my inflatable pfd)...I have heard of some folks who always trail a 100 foot line from the transom in these situations, just in case.

Food for thought.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

Rick,

I had an ST1000+ with remote on my old S2 7.3. Great unit for that boat, but the displacement of my 7.3 was only ~3200 lbs vs. the 5000 lbs of my 27. My current 27 has an ST 4000 (now obsolete), but it is a much better, more robust unit than the ST 1000. The primary problem with the ST 1000 is that its likely a bit "light" and underpowered for the 27, although it rated up to 6,600 lbs. The lock-to-lock time is quite slow (8 seconds) compared the the heftier models (4.5 seconds for the ST 2000). Also, if the ST 1000 is allowed to "overthrow" to the end of the stop--which it did a lot--the unit will chatter, stressing the mechanism. Too long in that position will burn it out (leading to a refurb...)

You will pay (at least) $100 extra for attachment equipment:
? cantilever extensions
? tiller brackets
? cantilever socket, etc.
? additional cableing

Me? I'd opt for an ST 2000, minimally, for a 27, loaded. I DO think that the upgrade for my 7.3 was some of the best money I spent on that boat, and I love my current ST 4000. Changed the way I sailed...did a LOT more singlehanding, and I interfaced it with my GPS. It will sail me right INTO my waypoint!

My $0.02, anyway.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")



--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

Anyone out there using an autotiller? Looking at buying one. Just so you are aware Defender is selling REFURBISHED Raymarine ST1000's for $300- incredible deal....

Rick


Re: Autotiller

 

Re: trailing a long line for MOB.

I'm speculating here, but grabbing a wet line moving at 5-6 knots might be challenging. I remember water skiing as a kid, and if dad didn't get enough power on to lift us, the slow speed tow was pretty tough to put up with. In order to catch hold, hang on and work your way up to the boat, someone with decent arm strength would still need knots about every foot or foot and a half.
I also expect the experienced hands here to recommend being tethered to a jack line anytime one is single handing. But, I must admit that while I have the safety harness I've never rigged a jackline and clipped in.

Bob


Re: Autotiller

 

A follow-up about tillerpilots...it's pretty obvious, I know, but when you are singlehanding under the guidance of a tillerpilot, if you fall overboard, the boat will simply sail straight away from you. On a large body of water, that can result in a REALLY bad outcome. I am always acutely aware of the danger when I venture onto the foredeck when Tilly is steering, and I am alone (I also wear my inflatable pfd)...I have heard of some folks who always trail a 100 foot line from the transom in these situations, just in case.

Food for thought.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

Rick,

I had an ST1000+ with remote on my old S2 7.3. Great unit for that boat, but the displacement of my 7.3 was only ~3200 lbs vs. the 5000 lbs of my 27. My current 27 has an ST 4000 (now obsolete), but it is a much better, more robust unit than the ST 1000. The primary problem with the ST 1000 is that its likely a bit "light" and underpowered for the 27, although it rated up to 6,600 lbs. The lock-to-lock time is quite slow (8 seconds) compared the the heftier models (4.5 seconds for the ST 2000). Also, if the ST 1000 is allowed to "overthrow" to the end of the stop--which it did a lot--the unit will chatter, stressing the mechanism. Too long in that position will burn it out (leading to a refurb...)

You will pay (at least) $100 extra for attachment equipment:
? cantilever extensions
? tiller brackets
? cantilever socket, etc.
? additional cableing

Me? I'd opt for an ST 2000, minimally, for a 27, loaded. I DO think that the upgrade for my 7.3 was some of the best money I spent on that boat, and I love my current ST 4000. Changed the way I sailed...did a LOT more singlehanding, and I interfaced it with my GPS. It will sail me right INTO my waypoint!

My $0.02, anyway.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")



--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

Anyone out there using an autotiller? Looking at buying one. Just so you are aware Defender is selling REFURBISHED Raymarine ST1000's for $300- incredible deal....

Rick


Re: Autotiller

 

My boat came with a Navico tiller pilot, which now seems to be the Simrad TP10. I've found it to be very useful, but have no idea how old it is.
The pinion gear would occasionally spin loose on the motor shaft. It is just a press fit. A dab of epoxy seems to have taken care of that.
It's great for middling conditions and motoring. Trying to point very close or sailing downwind with a following sea will challenge it's little brain.
I would guess that the programing has improved greatly since it was new.

I wouldn't want to singlehand without one.

Bob


Re: Autotiller

 

Rick,

I had an ST1000+ with remote on my old S2 7.3. Great unit for that boat, but the displacement of my 7.3 was only ~3200 lbs vs. the 5000 lbs of my 27. My current 27 has an ST 4000 (now obsolete), but it is a much better, more robust unit than the ST 1000. The primary problem with the ST 1000 is that its likely a bit "light" and underpowered for the 27, although it rated up to 6,600 lbs. The lock-to-lock time is quite slow (8 seconds) compared the the heftier models (4.5 seconds for the ST 2000). Also, if the ST 1000 is allowed to "overthrow" to the end of the stop--which it did a lot--the unit will chatter, stressing the mechanism. Too long in that position will burn it out (leading to a refurb...)

You will pay (at least) $100 extra for attachment equipment:
? cantilever extensions
? tiller brackets
? cantilever socket, etc.
? additional cableing

Me? I'd opt for an ST 2000, minimally, for a 27, loaded. I DO think that the upgrade for my 7.3 was some of the best money I spent on that boat, and I love my current ST 4000. Changed the way I sailed...did a LOT more singlehanding, and I interfaced it with my GPS. It will sail me right INTO my waypoint!

My $0.02, anyway.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:

Anyone out there using an autotiller? Looking at buying one. Just so you are aware Defender is selling REFURBISHED Raymarine ST1000's for $300- incredible deal....

Rick


Autotiller

 

Anyone out there using an autotiller? Looking at buying one. Just so you are aware Defender is selling REFURBISHED Raymarine ST1000's for $300- incredible deal....

Rick


Re: Pattern for a winter cover?

 

Well, it would certainly make sense for a canvas maker to measure the boat. I suppose that what I was really asking is whether anyone has had a cover made. If so, then, what kind of frame was required, and whether the pattern is available? Since only 85 of our boats were produced, I guess it's a long shot. I DO wonder if a cover for another 27 footer would fit our boats, say, a Catalina 27.

I saw in the photos section a frame for your boat, Rick. Was that frame designed for shrink-wrap?

--Dave

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:

Dave I have been thinking of doing the same. Question: if you have it made, won't the canvas maker come down to the boat and measure it? I would think they would need to design the frame to support the cover since it is "mast down." Or make some assumption as to the type of frame support for which to make the cover?

Rick





--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

Anyone have a pattern for a winter cover for the S2 27? Or, if you had a cover made, what's the contact info for the company that made it, and are you happy with the cover they made for you?

I had my boat shrink wrapped this winter, but if my boat budget can take it, I'd really like to get a canvas cover made (mast down).

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")


Re: Pattern for a winter cover?

 

Dave I have been thinking of doing the same. Question: if you have it made, won't the canvas maker come down to the boat and measure it? I would think they would need to design the frame to support the cover since it is "mast down." Or make some assumption as to the type of frame support for which to make the cover?

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

Anyone have a pattern for a winter cover for the S2 27? Or, if you had a cover made, what's the contact info for the company that made it, and are you happy with the cover they made for you?

I had my boat shrink wrapped this winter, but if my boat budget can take it, I'd really like to get a canvas cover made (mast down).

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")


Pattern for a winter cover?

 

Anyone have a pattern for a winter cover for the S2 27? Or, if you had a cover made, what's the contact info for the company that made it, and are you happy with the cover they made for you?

I had my boat shrink wrapped this winter, but if my boat budget can take it, I'd really like to get a canvas cover made (mast down).

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")


owners of keel stepped S2 27..

 

Long winter - i hope not - we have received 5 feet since 12/26..spent all weekend with the roof rake, and I must have shoveled cubic yards of snow..

back to sailboats...

if any of you have a chance, can you post a picture of your bilge - specifically the keel bolts, and area where the cabin pan liner joins the hull? (the area just inside where the floor boards sit in the molded recess).

thanks.

Rick
103 days 'til launch


Re: Off season engine work

 

Hello All,

I've just started putting a few photos together on this project.
The website design is about as minimal as can be, but the point is sharing info.
Maybe a record of my muddling through will help out someone else in similar straights.

Enjoy,

Bob



Re: Off season engine work

 

Bob

Any pictures to post?

How was your exhaust elbow, was it full of carbon?

No sailing up North here - just got 7" of snow today.

My next project is finishing the brightwork on my Dyer Dhow Midget, and checking craigslist for a used trailer to haul her...

--- In s227classassociation@..., "taylorsmill" <woodwork@...> wrote:

Happy new year to all!

I have started tearing the 1GM10 down.

The zinc was a crumbly wad of grey fluff. Managed to keep what was left of it from falling in the water space. Flattened the mounting plate with a big flat file and a coarse diamond sharpening plate. Perhaps a gasket will seal it now better than the blue gob of permatex that was there before. Lots of loose paint & rust in that area.

Yanmar's gasket "kit" doesn't seem to include an exhaust manifold gasket, so I've ordered that along with the small water hoses.

The very good news is that the front oil pipe that was previously out of stock even from Yanmar is now available again. So I can ditch my cobbed up version.

Now that the prop shaft is loose it slides down and I see the wear at the cutlass bearing surface. That has probably never been replaced. I sense an increase in the List...

Hope some of you are still sailing, we have 3 months until the marina re-opens.

Bob


Re: Off season engine work

 

Happy new year to all!

I have started tearing the 1GM10 down.

The zinc was a crumbly wad of grey fluff. Managed to keep what was left of it from falling in the water space. Flattened the mounting plate with a big flat file and a coarse diamond sharpening plate. Perhaps a gasket will seal it now better than the blue gob of permatex that was there before. Lots of loose paint & rust in that area.

Yanmar's gasket "kit" doesn't seem to include an exhaust manifold gasket, so I've ordered that along with the small water hoses.

The very good news is that the front oil pipe that was previously out of stock even from Yanmar is now available again. So I can ditch my cobbed up version.

Now that the prop shaft is loose it slides down and I see the wear at the cutlass bearing surface. That has probably never been replaced. I sense an increase in the List...

Hope some of you are still sailing, we have 3 months until the marina re-opens.

Bob


Re: happy holidays...

cfilmcfilm
 

Seasons Greetings to Everyone!

Charles
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY


Re: happy holidays...

 

Thanks Rick,

Best wishes to everyone for a happy holiday and a great new year.

We got our first 1/2" of snow yesterday afternoon. And it paralyzed the entire Phila/tri-state area for the whole evening.
Silly... I have a recurring fantasy of spending next years' holidays on a boat somewhere warm!!!

Enjoy,

Bob


happy holidays...

 

All - hope you have a merry christmas and happy new year. no boat projects to start until january...

cheers

rick


Re: Off season engine work

 

Bob

Sounds like you have yer hands full this winter, but sounds like fun. (and having a shop is great too). Assume you have a service manual, if not let me know as I can email one to you.

I've not ordered from Torrensen as my local Chandlery sells for about same price so I'd rather support the local guy. Since your pulling the motor - good time for new/upgraded stuffing box? motor mounts? the zinc is easy to replace - i do mine every spring.

re fuel injector - i would take it to a local diesel mechanic (not a marine mechanic) to test the spray pattern - they can clean it, etc. guess you can also do a static timing adjustment, maybe water pump as the 1gm10 water pumps seem to have a tendency to leak...on the oil line as you probably know..check the exhaust elbow for any carbon build up too!

this sounds like a great project, take some pictures and let us know how it goes.

For me - I may upgrade my traveler, and have some minor work to do on a newly purchased (used) Dyer Dhow dinghy. Will take some pix of that when I get her in my basement.

CHeers

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "taylorsmill" <woodwork@...> wrote:

Well, my season is officially over. She's up on stands. I have put entirely too much oil through the little Yanmar this summer. It's leaking in a somewhat random fashion. Level holding decent from one week to the next and then, oops! it's all in the bilge.

I have replaced the external lines that I can get to. One of which I had to fabricate from 8mm stainless tube and the salvaged ends. (that's actually the most likely suspect for continued leakage!) There is one more stock oil line to replace in the rear.

So, I've disconnected the control cables, fuel lines, electrics, and It's ready to pull. I just need to get a bench set up in the shop to put on before I lift it out of the boat.

Has anyone else done this already?
Torreson Marine seems to be great for parts and parts kits. I expect to do all gaskets, o-rings & a thermostat. I think there's a zinc to replace. A little paint... How about a new fuel injector?

Bob


Off season engine work

 

Well, my season is officially over. She's up on stands. I have put entirely too much oil through the little Yanmar this summer. It's leaking in a somewhat random fashion. Level holding decent from one week to the next and then, oops! it's all in the bilge.

I have replaced the external lines that I can get to. One of which I had to fabricate from 8mm stainless tube and the salvaged ends. (that's actually the most likely suspect for continued leakage!) There is one more stock oil line to replace in the rear.

So, I've disconnected the control cables, fuel lines, electrics, and It's ready to pull. I just need to get a bench set up in the shop to put on before I lift it out of the boat.

Has anyone else done this already?
Torreson Marine seems to be great for parts and parts kits. I expect to do all gaskets, o-rings & a thermostat. I think there's a zinc to replace. A little paint... How about a new fuel injector?

Bob


Crazy frenchman video

cfilmcfilm
 

Here is a video montage of my solo trip this past September. It includes a clip of my last posted video:

As previously mentioned, winds were ranging 15 to 25 knots with gusts exceeding 35 knots in 3-4 foot waves. I was sailing downwind only that day with an unfurled 135 Genoa, no mainsail or spinnaker. I covered a distance of about 23 nautical miles in just about 4 hours!

Disclaimer: Don't look at this video if you do not want to be exposed to french language and crazy french music.


Charles
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY


Re: Video clip

cfilmcfilm
 

Thanks for posting your video Bob. It's always exciting to see other S2 27 boats in action. And great performance too!!

For my part, so far I never managed to reach 7 knots with a reduced mainsail and/or Genoa in winds above 15 knots.

Keep those video coming in.

Charles
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Hello folks,

I finally got the video clips together from my fastest day in July. Best
conditions and speeds to date for me. No hard data on wind speed
though... Just pure fun!



Enjoy,

Bob