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Re: Misc. Boat questions
Hello Allen,
Glad to see another owner on the board! It sounds as though our boats had similar situations. Mine had been sitting in a yard for about 5 years. Do you have a water pick up hose rigged in the coolant lines? I'd recommend running the engine on the hard for a while. Set up a hose to fill a bucket and let the motor draw from it. When I launched I put about 6 gallons of fresh fuel in with the old and ran it with no problems for the last two months of the season. In the spring, I replaced the primary element and sucked some water from the bottom of the tank with the little hand pump I bought for changing oil through the dipstick. Only after the separator bowl filled again did I realize the O ring on the fuel filler was dried out and leaky. I bought several o-rings close to 1-3/4" but I'm not thrilled with the seal of any of them, so last season I taped over the filler cap with some white vinyl tape as insurance. Since I only bought fuel three times in 8 months I figure it's not a big deal to redo. I'll check the bottom of the tank this weekend. I'd siphon a bit from the bottom of the tank, have replacement elements for both filters, learn the bleeding procedure (easy), and run her. Unless there's some bad growth issue, you should be ok. Welcome & best of luck with your new boat. Bob |
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Re: Misc. Boat questions
Welcome aboard Allen. Glad you have joined the ranks of 27 owners. I hope you find this site helpful.
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Some comments below, and I am sure others will chime in: 1) I was in a similar situation with fuel in tank sitting from Fall 2005 thru Spring 2007. I didn't have it treated (and the fuel tank was only 4-5 years old when I purchased the boat in 2007). I would pull some fuel and put in mason jar let it sit to see if there is any water - what does the Racor fuel bowl look like? Any water separation showing? What did the filter itself look like? 2) not sure what original fuel tank was like - but it SHOULD have an access hatch on top to facilitate cleaning of tank. many smaller boats don't have an access hatch...mine doesn't unfortunately because the knucklehead P.O. didn't think of fabricating one...dumb... 3)my guess is after 24 years the original tank has a fair amount of gunk (maybe) - if so - I would remove it and take it to some automotive type place (that specializes in DIESEL) that cleans fuel tanks. Or you can wipe it down by hand with fresh diesel fuel, etc. to clean it off - important to make sure no moisture forms before putting it back.. 4) You can have the fuel polished - and that might be the best short term tack, but if it is the original tank - i think you need to know what you are dealing with. But short term that is probably the best approach to get into the water quickly. 5) I would not use a brush thru filler hose - that will just stir things up and you will never get to all of the gunk. loosen it up and remove it - i would NOT do that.. 6) would not go to any auto type place, unless they know diesel - they may introduce new impurities...diesel engines are remarkably simple beasts - but they DEMAND clean fuel and air. 7) regarding filler fitting - you mean the filler mounted on the cockpit sole? I think those are pretty standard sizes and most marine stores will carry this - I suggest www.defender.com for parts. Post some pics if you have a chance! Rick 1985 S2-27 US40521 --- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@..." <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:
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Misc. Boat questions
I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.
The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a filer, a Raycor, I think. It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course. Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions? Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O" rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986 with a floor mount fuel filler. Thanks1 Allen. |
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI know Western Auto, I bought my first bike and a
22 rifle there about 55+/-? years ago!? Not sure I understand when you
say the "pulley is tapped"? Did you mean tapered?? I think an impact
wrench should remove the nut and then the pulley will just pull off, as compared
to it being threaded?? I suppose it will be obvious when I get in
there.? Got my parts ordered this morning so should have them the first of
the week.?
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Hi Mark, ? |
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
Hi Mark,
Yes I did use a puller. An old adjustable one I've owned for, well, I bought it at a Western Auto store if that means anything in your area. The pulley is tapped if you want to make one up out of bar stock. I drilled some flat iron to make a sort of Y-spanner to hold the pulley while loosening the nut but 1/4" flat stock is not stiff enough to pull against. Bob |
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý?
Thanks for the pictures Bob.? Did you have
to use a puller to remove the crank pulley?? ? I have made
pullers for harmonic balancers on automotive engines but never had the Yanmar
apart.
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Mark
S2-27 #15
Nashville
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Hi Guys, ? |
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Re: Anyone in the water yet????
Just made it in! The yard plopped her in Tuesday morning. I ran down that evening to check on her. Had a pleasant picnic and was very pleased to find the engine sump dry.
I put in the PYI shaft seal while I had the engine out and it seems to be doing its job. I was a little nervous about that. I even rigged a temporary bilge pump from the sump to the galley sink just in case. It took two weekends of intense activity to finish up the major projects and get her waxed. She's in a slip right now thanks to light demand at the yard and I hope to climb the mast to replace bulbs before I move out to the mooring this weekend. Good luck to all for a great season! Bob |
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
Hi Guys,
Here's a couple of photos of the water pump when I had it out. The smaller seal behind the impeller has a pretty hard life depending on the water quality in your area. It gets brittle after a while and the shaft wears a little bit and water leaks past and drips out the relief hole. The bigger seal is for the oil side of things. The seals are cheap, but the shaft is about $75.00! I replaced shaft, bearings and seals. The boat just went in on Tuesday, so I'll find out how all the repairs went this weekend, weather permitting. I had the crank pulley off, so I can't swear to it, but I'd be very surprised if the pump will clear it. You should probably hit it with a PBblaster or similar for a couple days and pull it with a real puller. The nut is 27mm as I recall. One thing I did after the first impeller change was loose the slotted head screws in the cover plate and replace them with stainless hex head bolts. Much easier to access behind the pulley. I replaced the cover plate itself early on also. They cup after a while and the gasket will not seal. The bearings are a bit tricky to press on with the duffer method using sockets and hammers. There's a little bitty external snap ring between them for space. A press would have been very helpful. I wouldn't replace them if they weren't obviously bad next time. If the photos don't come through in this email, I'll try to post them. Bob |
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks for the note Rick,? No, I'm not sure the leak is
internal to the pump it could be just a gasket but others have had the seals in
the pump shaft fail.? The hose looks good but I didn't take it apart yet,
will probably remove it and the pump tomorrow evening.? I do have the
Yanmar service manual, thanks for the offer.
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Re: 1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
Mark - are you sure the leak is coming from the pump? Could it be the gasket cover leaking or even the intake pipe into the pump (both have happened to me). I do believe one of the other members did this if I recall. ALSO - do you have the Service Manual - just checking as I have a softcopy I can send you.
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Good luck and let us know how it goes. Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark" <Mark@...> wrote:
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1GM10 Water Pump Repair Kit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI fired up my engine today for the first time this year and
have a leak in sea water pump.? I looked in the manual and it appears that
it should be rebuildable with a suitable kit of seals and probably
bearings.? Of course the drip has been on the oil pipe but it doesn't look
too rusted and can probably clean it up and repainted.? I figured some of
you may have done this job and have some words to the wise and maybe what esle
needs to be ordered.? I will replace the impeller and gaskets while I am
there.? Also, will the pump come out without removing the crank
pulley?
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Thanks,
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Mark
S2-27 #15
Nashville, TN |
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Re: 1GM10
Our 1986 S2-27 has an "upgraded" Yanmar 2GM20. Still Yanmar, but 2 cylinders and 20hp. It does well with the MaxProp folding prop we have.
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--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
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1GM10 Manual Start
Since the conversation has moved onto diesel engines...anyone here able to hand crank their 1GM10 to start it? I tried it last season with no success. I had my crew release the compression lever while I spun the crank as fast as I could, then had the crew member release the compression lever. No go. Any suggestions?
Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B") |
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Re: 1GM10
My '87 has a Yanmar 1GM10. Do any of the S2 27 owners on this list have an engine other than a 1GM10? Just curious. BTW, in case you haven't heard, according to the Mack Boring folks, Yanmar doesn't make the 1GM10 thumper anymore... :(
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Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B") --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
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Re: 1GM10
AllenJ. Hinkelman
Bob, the injector is not that much of an effort to remove and test at a dealer that has a high pressure hand pump. If the engine is running fine, starts easily, does not smoke and seems to sip fuel, you are probably fine leaving it alone. If you have any problems, especially when starting or first running the engine-rougher than normal, more smoke than seems reasonable, consumes more fuel than you think it should-consider having the dealer test the injector to make sure that it closes properly, does not drip and has a good spray pattern. In the Yanmar class that I took, the demo between a good injector-with a well-defined, extra fine spray pattern and a defective injector was obvious. All the bad ones also dripped which will cause smoke and other problems. BTW the instructor said that it
was not all that unusual to get a bad one, brand new out of the box!
Regards, Allen.
From: Bob Taylor To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Tue, March 29, 2011 12:32:57 PM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: 1GM10 ? Hi all, |
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Re: 1GM10
Hi all,
The engine "rebuild" is about done, but I have opted not to do the head gasket and injector. Every experienced mechanic I spoke with and several authors seem to feel that opening the cylinder when no symptoms indicate it's necessary is just asking for trouble. The exhaust elbow is healthy and compression feels very tight to me, so I'll keep the parts in inventory and run the hours up some more. So, it's been the zinc, thermostat, hoses, gaskets, oil lines, and replacing the water pump components. Much lower liability. All that's left to do is clean up some corrosion on the alternator, paint and re-mount it, reinstall and hope it runs! I sidetracked a bit and did the Cutless bearing this weekend. I removed it by slicing once longways with a hacksaw and starting a curl with a punch through the screw holes. Drove it out with a deep socket and some medium level hammer tapping. I pressed the new one in with a foot of 3/4" all-thread and nuts with triple washers. When the shaft goes back in I will install the P.Y.I. dripless shaft seal. There is "just enough" room for it by my measurements. I'll be a little nervous at launch, but if it's all they say I'll have a less nasty engine sump this season. New lifelines went on this weekend too. I got them from Rigging Only in Connecticut. Prompt and very reasonable. Upgraded to nice Pelican hooks, the originals were stamped clips with a bail and had no turnbuckle at the forward end. I'm going to stretch my bottom paint to a second season. I used Micron Extra last spring and it still looks good A little touch up on keel & rudder and I should be set. Launch day last year was April 22. Not sure I can beat that this year, but we can always hope. It was 25 degrees this morning but Here's to Spring anyway! Bob |
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Re: Autotiller
Bob
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How goes the engine rebuild? --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
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