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Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Jerry Durand
 

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On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have a higher opinion of you.

Here (50+ year old house) for a remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it in the trash and buy a new one.


*AHJ = Authority Having Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.

** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.
-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand 


Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

 

Good question.? Practices vary in different jurisdictions.? In some places copper is used for gas piping.? I some cases it may be, but should not be, soft soldered at the joints.? Or silver soldered, or silver-phos soldered, or brazed, or made up with flare fittings....? Sometimes steel is required for natural gas but copper is allowed for propane.? The corrugated stainless stuff has, I think, brass or bronze connections.? In many places, maybe most places, gas utilities use "copper tube size" polyethylene for house services.? This generally switches over to metal below ground level.? All these systems have their own failure modes.? For instance, if you have a piece of steel pipe hanging horizontally from a threaded fitting it may break off at the threads if the support fails.

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

At 12:15 AM 11/15/2012 -0500, you wrote:

?

If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: < 7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

> Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
> inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
> inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
> how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
> course, modern practice would use a grooved
> system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
> five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
> keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)
>
> At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
> galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
> least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
> threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
> stainless is taking over that
> market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.
>
> So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.
>
> I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
> gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
> are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
> markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
> you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
> chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
> cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
> in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.
>
> Threading is a really lousy way to put up
> something like a flagpole, or to contain high
> pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
> the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
> start.
>
> At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
>>diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.
>>
>>Mert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
>>< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
>>[ mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
>>Of < mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net >fd042@...
>>Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
>>To: < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>>Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
>>releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>>
>>Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
>>pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
>>cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
>>common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
>>pipe
>>dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
>>threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
>>plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
>>use
>>dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
>>am
>>not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
>>traditional
>>for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
>>not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
>>with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
>>machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
>>will
>>do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
>>pipe
>>threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
>>that
>>these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
>>only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
>>accuracy.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Roy
>> >Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
>> >To:
>> >< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>> >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
>>where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>> >
>> >With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.
>> >
>> >Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
>> >are
>>threaded NPS as are lamp parts.
>> >
>> >Roy
>> >
>> >--- In
>> < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...,
>> ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.
>> >>
>> >> In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
>>Research ships as an oceanographic
>> >> technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
>> >> of
>>cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).
>> >>
>> >> The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
>>stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
>> >> one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
>>room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
>> >> similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
>>with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
>> >> meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
>>connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
>> >> I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
>>then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
>> >> my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
>>National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
>> >> system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
>>NEF tap did work.
>> >> My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
>>on tight.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
>> >> pipe
>>threads are used but not on pipes.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Murray
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >------------------------------------
>> >
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>


Re: Hello from Yellowknife

 

Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse purchase on my part.

It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.

I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.

Don Hamilton


---------------------------------------------------

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson <ve8rt@...> wrote:

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >





Re: New to the list

lists
 

In article <50A45D21.9080200@...>,
mark@... <mark@...> wrote:
For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making
my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc)
Have you read the Gingery books?

There is a group for that too



--
Stuart


Re: New to the list

Nelson T.
 

Mark,
?
Welcome!? I have a long-bed Sherline that I use for antique clock work and I really like it. It is limited to smaller parts. And yes, it isn't cheap, but it is well made (in USA).
When buying, consider the largest work you will want to do, and buy accordingly. A 7x12 might be a good compromise- you can do everything you want with it.
?
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Nelson T.
?

From: "mark@..."
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list
?
Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA


Re: Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

 

Model Engine Builder Magazine has had many plans.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mce600" <mce600@...> wrote:



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke <robert.schulke53@> wrote:

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!

Have a look here



Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Nelson T.
 

Mike, I'm in NYC also, and from what I heard, the fire in Breezy Pt?worsened when a propane tank was breeched, perhaps by fire, and exploded, spreading flames everywhere.
The fire trucks were stuck in 3 feet of water.
?
They don't have natural gas lines there, so propane is what they use.
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Nelson T.
?

From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:15 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")
?
If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri mailto:miket_nyc%40verizon.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <mailto:alan%40greendel.org>
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

> Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
> inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
> inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
> how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
> course, modern practice would use a grooved
> system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
> five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
> keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)
>
> At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
> galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
> least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
> threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
> stainless is taking over that
> market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.
>
> So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.
>
> I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
> gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
> are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
> markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
> you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
> chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
> cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
> in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.
>
> Threading is a really lousy way to put up
> something like a flagpole, or to contain high
> pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
> the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
> start.
>
> At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
>>diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.
>>
>>Mert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
>>mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
>>Of mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net
>>Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
>>To: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
>>releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>>
>>Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
>>pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
>>cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
>>common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
>>pipe
>>dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
>>threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
>>plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
>>use
>>dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
>>am
>>not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
>>traditional
>>for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
>>not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
>>with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
>>machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
>>will
>>do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
>>pipe
>>threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
>>that
>>these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
>>only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
>>accuracy.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Roy
>> >Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
>> >To:
>> >mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>> >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
>>where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>> >
>> >With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.
>> >
>> >Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
>> >are
>>threaded NPS as are lamp parts.
>> >
>> >Roy
>> >
>> >--- In
>> mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com,
>> ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.
>> >>
>> >> In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
>>Research ships as an oceanographic
>> >> technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
>> >> of
>>cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).
>> >>
>> >> The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
>>stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
>> >> one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
>>room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
>> >> similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
>>with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
>> >> meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
>>connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
>> >> I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
>>then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
>> >> my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
>>National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
>> >> system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
>>NEF tap did work.
>> >> My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
>>on tight.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
>> >> pipe
>>threads are used but not on pipes.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Murray
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >------------------------------------
>> >
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>


Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where

stan campbell
 

A lot of gas mains are plastic now. Usually orange, comes on a roll. They melt it together to couple it. Never looked like a good idea to me. When they bore under roads and such it is cheaper easier and faster.

?
STAN CAMPBELL


Re: Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke <robert.schulke53@...> wrote:

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!

Have a look here


Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

MERTON B BAKER
 

Gas lines today are frequently made of copper pipe. Actually, soft tubing.
In the olden days, the lines were iron pipe with threaded fittings. In
house fires, things collapse, and steel & iron pipe sometimes breaks.
Copper sometimes melts. Pressure tanks can fail when the heat softens the
steel, (Steel loses half it's strength at 500 deg) heat raises the pressure
inside adding to the likelihood of a burst tank. High winds can collapse
buildings, breaking gas pipes. any spark can then set off a fire or an
explosion. Evidently you are situated high enuf to have avoided the
destruction on Staten Island. I hope so, anyway.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Taglieri
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:16 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera
cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")


If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?


Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:


The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are
threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:


Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
Research ships as an oceanographic
technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of
cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
NEF tap did work.
My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe
threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





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Yahoo! Groups Links


Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Michael Taglieri
 

If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?


Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:


The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are
threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:


Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
Research ships as an oceanographic
technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of
cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
NEF tap did work.
My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe
threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

Robert Schulke
 

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!


New to the list

 

开云体育

Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA


Re: 7x treading capabilities

 

It looks like the expanded threading capacity comes from going farther on the table of cuttable threads! If you look in the "files" section, you'll find tables showing that just about every integer thread pitch and reasonable metric approximations can be cut with the gears normally supplied. By adding a 21 tooth gear, several of the metric approximations are a little closer. Without a 21 tooth gear, usable threads are easy enough to cut.

There are a few possible pitches that run into set up problems because the needed gears don't fit into the normal spacing rules:

72<A+B<134
88<C+D<138

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "chucketn" <chunk07@...> wrote:

I was brousing information on threading capabilities on the 7x SIEG lathes. I was referred to the lathe comparison page on the LMS website at .
I noticed the threading column lists a capability of 28 threads for the LMS HiTorque and 18 threads for all other listed SIEG lathes.
How is this done? Does the 28 threads include the metric threads possible with the addition of a 21 tooth change gear? A 32 tooth change gear? Or are the gears in the drive train of the HiTorque different than the other SIEG lathes? I do understand there is no high/low gear in the HiTorque geer train.
What I'm trying to figure out is , can I increase the threading capability of my MicroMark 7 x 14 to 28 threads by adding 21 and 32 tooth gears as mentioned on
Or am I totaly confused and need another cup of coffee?

Chuck


Re: 7x treading capabilities

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andy Franks <andyf.1108@...> wrote:
I presume the leadscrew pitch is the same, so if the HiTorque gear set is the standard one plus 21T and 32T, adding those to your standard set should give you the same choice of threads.
That's what I'm trying to determine. Chris W., does the HiTorque come with a 32 tooth change gear?

Chuck


Re: 7x treading capabilities

 

开云体育

Chuck, my guess is that?the LMS?HiTorque will cut a bigger range of inch threads than the standard Sieg C3. The comparision chart quotes?from 4 to 80 tpi as opposed to 12?to 52 tpi.
?
As a general rule, a greater variety of change gears will increase the range of threads you can cut. I presume the leadscrew pitch is the same, so if the HiTorque gear set is the standard one plus 21T and 32T, adding those to your standard set should give you the same choice of threads.
?
4 tpi must be hard going, definitely needing a?handcrank, though with the gearing?4:1 against you,?cranking the leadscrew might be better.??And it might be easier?to use a die for some of the finer threads.
?
?
Andy
?

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: chunk07@...
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 15:57:22 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x treading capabilities

?
I was brousing information on threading capabilities on the 7x SIEG lathes. I was referred to the lathe comparison page on the LMS website at
I noticed the threading column lists a capability of 28 threads for the LMS HiTorque and 18 threads for all other listed SIEG lathes.
How is this done? Does the 28 threads include the metric threads possible with the addition of a 21 tooth change gear? A 32 tooth change gear? Or are the gears in the drive train of the HiTorque different than the other SIEG lathes? I do understand there is no high/low gear in the HiTorque geer train.
What I'm trying to figure out is , can I increase the threading capability of my MicroMark 7 x 14 to 28 threads by adding 21 and 32 tooth gears as mentioned on
Or am I totaly confused and need another cup of coffee?

Chuck



Re: choosing a lathe & accessories

MERTON B BAKER
 

I built my two from scratch, one with an internal collet clutch, and the other with a jam clutch. Both work, but I do most of my threading on the 12x36 because it's easier to change thread pitch with the LS gearbox. The hand cranks are still useful for odd cuts.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 8:54 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] choosing a lathe & accessories





Mert,
Building a crank for a 7X lathe is quite simple, I’ve done 2 now, using 1/2” water pipe for the main “shaft” portion, a hunk of 1/4” X 1” flat stock for the crank, and an aluminum round, 3/4” diameter, for the handle. There are several plans on the Internet.

I’ve done threading on my 7X lathes, and it’s quite a bit easier by using the crank. It works surprisingly well.

One other trick: when setting up the change gears, run a piece of newspaper between them to set the clearance. Wind out the paper, and the clearance is perfect.

<<Jim>>



From: MERTON B BAKER
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 5:00 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] choosing a lathe & accessories


small diameter. Threading is best done slowly, especially if you are a
beginner, and even after cutting a lot of threads, I find the Sherline
arrangement the best I've seen on a small lathe. Even on the 7x machines,
it goes much simpler with a hand crank, especially so if you are threading
up to a shoulder, as is frequently the case. LMS sells a good scissors type


7x treading capabilities

 

I was brousing information on threading capabilities on the 7x SIEG lathes. I was referred to the lathe comparison page on the LMS website at .
I noticed the threading column lists a capability of 28 threads for the LMS HiTorque and 18 threads for all other listed SIEG lathes.
How is this done? Does the 28 threads include the metric threads possible with the addition of a 21 tooth change gear? A 32 tooth change gear? Or are the gears in the drive train of the HiTorque different than the other SIEG lathes? I do understand there is no high/low gear in the HiTorque geer train.
What I'm trying to figure out is , can I increase the threading capability of my MicroMark 7 x 14 to 28 threads by adding 21 and 32 tooth gears as mentioned on
Or am I totaly confused and need another cup of coffee?

Chuck


Re: choosing a lathe & accessories

 

As to knurling, the Sherline tool does seem an odd design, and the instructions look a bit complicated, but it's probably easier to use than it looks.

I use a "scissor" or "straddle" tool similar to this:
< >
Like the Sherline, it applies pressure from each side of the job. That is a good deal kinder to the lathe's spindle bearings than a traditional "bump" knurler, which is pushed against one side of the job by advancing the cross slide.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson <ve8rt@...> wrote:

The advice received here has been very helpful, and brought up a lot
more questions. One of those of interest was on thread cutting, it
looks like it may be a problem with the Taig lathe, while on the
Sherline it seems that the motor comes off and the threads cut by using
a hand wheel which has pros and cons.

Another task I'd like to do is knurling. Sherline has a knurling
attachment of an unfamiliar design, but I have not yet found out what
type of tool is used on the Homier / Craftex. I'm having a little
trouble finding information on a knurling tool.

I like Vince's comment;

If you buy it now and stash it away, you'll make room for it a lot
sooner than first making room and then buying it.
It sounds like advice from someone with experience.

Finally, I'd consider buying a used lathe, but I think that the shipping
costs would make it more expensive and a higher risk investment than
getting a new one from Edmonton.

Ron (in Yellowknife)


Re: choosing a lathe & accessories

Jim Dunmyer
 

开云体育

Mert,
Building a crank for a 7X lathe is quite simple, I’ve done 2 now, using 1/2” water pipe for the main “shaft” portion, a hunk of 1/4” X 1” flat stock for the crank, and an aluminum round, 3/4” diameter, for the handle. There are several plans on the Internet.
?
I’ve done threading on my 7X lathes, and it’s quite a bit easier by using the crank. It works surprisingly well.
?
One other trick: when setting up the change gears, run a piece of newspaper between? them to set the clearance. Wind out the paper, and the clearance is perfect.
?
????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? <>
?
?
?

Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 5:00 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] choosing a lathe & accessories
?
?

small diameter. Threading is best done slowly, especially if you are a
beginner, and even after cutting a lot of threads, I find the Sherline
arrangement the best I've seen on a small lathe. Even on the 7x machines,
it goes much simpler with a hand crank, especially so if you are threading
up to a shoulder, as is frequently the case. LMS sells a good scissors type