I built my two from scratch, one with an internal collet clutch, and the other with a jam clutch. Both work, but I do most of my threading on the 12x36 because it's easier to change thread pitch with the LS gearbox. The hand cranks are still useful for odd cuts.
Mert
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-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 8:54 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] choosing a lathe & accessories
Mert,
Building a crank for a 7X lathe is quite simple, I¡¯ve done 2 now, using 1/2¡± water pipe for the main ¡°shaft¡± portion, a hunk of 1/4¡± X 1¡± flat stock for the crank, and an aluminum round, 3/4¡± diameter, for the handle. There are several plans on the Internet.
I¡¯ve done threading on my 7X lathes, and it¡¯s quite a bit easier by using the crank. It works surprisingly well.
One other trick: when setting up the change gears, run a piece of newspaper between them to set the clearance. Wind out the paper, and the clearance is perfect.
<<Jim>>
From: MERTON B BAKER
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 5:00 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] choosing a lathe & accessories
small diameter. Threading is best done slowly, especially if you are a
beginner, and even after cutting a lot of threads, I find the Sherline
arrangement the best I've seen on a small lathe. Even on the 7x machines,
it goes much simpler with a hand crank, especially so if you are threading
up to a shoulder, as is frequently the case. LMS sells a good scissors type
