¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: chatter

 

Is the tool properly shaped for brass? Brass needs 0 top rake; if there's any top rake the tool will try to pull into the work.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William McBride wrote:

thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
Bill


Re: Opinion of Harbor Freight 8x12 lathe.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

LOVE MINE!!!..
?
I would check out fignoggle.com for a nice review of it.. and comparrison pics of it next to the 7x lathe..
?
while still being a 'bench top' machine.. its got some nice weight/beef behind it..
?
no variable speed m otor though.. (if that matters to you like the 7x)..
?
Im a noob machinist though.. (for a bit of background)..? either way I realy enjoy mine...
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 11:02 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Opinion of Harbor Freight 8x12 lathe.

?

I've been looking for a mini lathe for a while. I put a wanted add on a local online site. I had a guy say he has the lathe in the subject line. Said he bought it about 8 years ago and hasn't used it much. I haven't looked at it yet, but would like some idea of price.

Any suggestions as to price are appreciated.

Bob


Re: chatter

MERTON B BAKER
 

MessageI've found the 14" bed on the 7x12 long enuf, & even the 10" one on
the 7x10 with the chuck off and using 3C collets is long enuf, too. I agree
about the camlock TS clamps & made 'em for my 7x lathes and for the 9x20
also, which is much more limited in the TS department than the 7xs are, and
really needed the modification. The "inch" scales on the regular 7xs are as
useful as any, I use 'em only for approximations and measure with the dial
caliper when I get close. The money I don't spend on the machine buys tools
& materials.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:43 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter





The situation with the Micromark 7x16 is that because of its size, it is
too heavy to be shipped in one carton fully assembled. This means that in
order for UPS or like carriers to ship it, the machine needs to be
unassembled and packed into two boxes so each box is under the weight limit
for shipping.

Micromark removes the entire carriage assembly from the bed in this
process, and relies on the buyer to re-install the carriage and adjust the
carriage gibs. While they do provide instructions for this assembly and
adjustment, adjusting the gibs is often a process that many people are
unfamiliar with, and so they probably don't get adjusted properly the first
time around. I too rushed through this step with my Micromark 7x16 when I
first assembled it in a hurry to get it up and running. I even completely
jumped over the step in the instructions which was to install a plastic
piece shield to keep the wiring off of the lead screw.

The compound and cross slide gibs on my machine did not require adjustment
out of the box, but I did have to loosen the carriage gibs in order for it
to slide onto the bed.

I doubt that Micromark goes over each machine when they receive it. Mine
appeared to be in the same box that it left China in.

The only advantages of a Micromark that I can see is the longer 16 inch
bed, the brushless motor, the cam lock tailstock, and the "True Inch"
compound and cross slide screws and dials. Whether or not the quality of the
machine is actually better than any other SIEG lathe is up for debate.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16




-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of MERTON B BAKER
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:06 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter



Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over
and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their
catalog for a couple of years.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter

my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not
finished adj with shims.

george

----------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing
depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.

If when you lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does
not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed
freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.

What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get
down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of
saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to
quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't
tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very
frustrating to adjust.
Bill


Re: chatter

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The situation with the Micromark 7x16 is that because of its size, it is too heavy to be shipped in one carton?fully assembled. This means that in order for UPS or like carriers to ship it, the machine needs to be unassembled and packed into two boxes so each box is under the weight limit for shipping.
?
Micromark removes the entire carriage assembly from the bed in this process, and relies on the buyer to re-install the carriage and adjust the carriage gibs. While they do provide?instructions for?this assembly and adjustment, adjusting the gibs?is often a process that many people are unfamiliar with, and so they probably don't get adjusted properly the first time around. I too rushed through this step with my Micromark 7x16 when I first assembled it in a hurry to get it up and running. I even completely jumped over the?step in the instructions which was to install a plastic piece shield to keep the wiring off of the lead screw.
?
The compound and cross slide gibs on my machine did not require adjustment out of the box, but I did have to loosen the carriage gibs in order for it to slide onto the bed.
?
I doubt that Micromark goes over each machine when they receive it. Mine appeared to be in the same box that it left China in.
?
The only advantages of a Micromark that I can see is the longer 16 inch?bed, the brushless motor,?the cam lock tailstock, and the "True Inch"?compound and cross slide screws and dials. Whether or not the quality of the machine is actually better than any other SIEG lathe is up for debate.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


?

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of MERTON B BAKER
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:06 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

?

Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their catalog for a couple of years.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter

my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not finished adj with shims.

george

----------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.

If when you lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.

What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very frustrating to adjust.
Bill


Re: chatter

 

what bearings did you use ?
thanks,
george


From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, February 12, 2013 4:29:03 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter

?


Hi Bill,
I have read what others have said and most of it is good advice.
I had the same problem with my MM 7x16. The best thing I have done is to spring for a new pair of tapered roller bearings for the headstock. After changing out the headstock bearings and adjusting them up snug the problem was gone. I did a test cut last week on a piece of a 5/8" reamer shank which is machineable HSS. I chucked the piece in the three jaw chuck , spun it at about 1200 rpm and feeding with the carriage handwheel was able to easily remove .100" per side (.200" on the diameter) with absolutely no chatter. It cut like leaded screw stock. I you do this mod and set the bearings up snug you will see a vast improvement.
Dick

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bill" wrote:
>
> Hi all I am a newbie , I am having difficulty with chatter even on light cuts. I am trying the tuning method explained in mini-lathe .com. I got a micro mark 7x16 lathe I have done a few light turning with it and went pretty well then I had to do a taper and thats when the problem began. I am having trouble adjusting the saddle mostly when I follow the instructions if I tighten the setscrews the saddle is very hard to move so obviously more than finger tight is too much does that make sense? Also the 1 mil it says to attain gap between ways and saddle would also make the saddle hard to move. I must be doing something wrong?
> Bill
>


Re: chatter

 

not mine. but maybe i'm just to picky. i don't like rough movements and rough finishes
so after seeing one i'm slowly going through it making sure that everything moves smoothly. a little filing and
and adjusting here and there is making it a much better machine.
?
george


From: MERTON B BAKER To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, February 12, 2013 6:22:43 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

?

Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their catalog for a couple of years.

Mert


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter

my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not finished adj with shims.

george

----------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.

If when you lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.

What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very frustrating to adjust.
Bill


Re: chatter

 

Bill;
One of the things to check,is to make sure your tool bit is not extended towards the chuck,or out too far.
The mini has as far as I am concerned,a bad design in the cross slide gibs. I noticed when I had to turn the bit out towards the chuck,I could see the cross slide tip towards the left,causing chatter.
I could actually grab the compound with my hands,and tip it towards the left,it was pivoting on the gib screws.
I had to make a brass gib,that fit almost tight between the saddle, and cross side,to minimize it.
But to eliminate it,I had to add a L shaped piece on the right side to hold down the slide
Brass has a tendency to ''hook''and pull a cutter into a cut,especially if the lathe is loose in the crossslide/compound area.
You can have a little angle on top of the bit,[towards side or back],but can only be a couple of degrees. The bits I have are rough on the surface,and I do this,just to be able to sharpen them ''smooth''.
Another thing you can try,is when you sharpen the bit,and put the radius on the front that does the cutting,only put a few degrees on the radius itself,the cutter will heel on the cut,and not allow
the cutter to dig in.
Allways use a radius ,on brass ,I use app.a .040 to .050 R for the majority of turning,and only use a bit with a ''sharp'' end,when I need to get into a corner that needs to be square/sharp.
--- On Tue, 2/12/13, Dick wrote:


From: Dick
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Tuesday, February 12, 2013, 12:28 PM

?

Hi Bill,
I have read what others have said and most of it is good advice.
I had the same problem with my MM 7x16. The best thing I have done is to spring for a new pair of tapered roller bearings for the headstock. After changing out the headstock bearings and adjusting them up snug the problem was gone. I did a test cut last week on a piece of a 5/8" reamer shank which is machineable HSS. I chucked the piece in the three jaw chuck , spun it at about 1200 rpm and feeding with the carriage handwheel was able to easily remove .100" per side (.200" on the diameter) with absolutely no chatter. It cut like leaded screw stock. I you do this mod and set the bearings up snug you will see a vast improvement.
Dick

--- In , "Bill" wrote:
>
> Hi all I am a newbie , I am having difficulty with chatter even on light cuts. I am trying the tuning method explained in mini-lathe .com. I got a micro mark 7x16 lathe I have done a few light turning with it and went pretty well then I had to do a taper and thats when the problem began. I am having trouble adjusting the saddle mostly when I follow the instructions if I tighten the setscrews the saddle is very hard to move so obviously more than finger tight is too much does that make sense? Also the 1 mil it says to attain gap between ways and saddle would also make the saddle hard to move. I must be doing something wrong?
> Bill
>


Re: Hello from Yellowknife

 

Thanks for that great info Michael. I wasn't aware of all the differences. For me now, it looks like either the LMS 7x12 Deluxe, or the LMS 8.5x16 with 1000W BLDC, dual DROs and power cross feed.

I've gotten so much terrific information from many of you in only the past 18h, it's really great, and much appreciated!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Jablonski" wrote:

At $749 the Craftex CX704 is bit pricey. It is a SIEG lathe of the older
design.

For $10 more you can get the LMS HiTorque 7x12
<
ategory=1271799306> &category=1271799306 >
which has many of the newer elements all ready on it such as:

Powerful 500 watt DC brushless motor
- lots of low speed torque
- no brushes to deal with
- quieter
- full range of speeds available with the turn of the speed adjustment
potentiometer
- no need to change gears for HI/LO speeds

No HI/LO gears
- often made of plastic and users break them requiring replacement
- quieter operation without these gears

True Split nut
- has a true split nut for power feed and threading. Some others only have
a half nut with a support

Cam lock tail stock
- Allows you to lock the tail stock down, or loosen it, with a flip of the
lever
- No searching for a wrench to tighten or loosen the nut

Port for optional Tachometer
-The headstock has a port for an optional plug in tachometer,
this tachometer can be used on a mini mill that has the same port

The LMS HiTorque is very similar to the Micromark 7x16 in features, the LMS
just has a shorter bed, and its cross feed and compound dials are graduated
in 0.001" and 0.025 mm.

If bed length is important, you may also want to take a look at the
Micromark 7x16.
< ,9615.html >
It is $100 more but it is the longest 7x lathe on the market.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16





-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of machspace
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 11:34 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Hello from Yellowknife






Hey guys,

I'm about to purchase my first lathe, a mini-lathe, and hoping for a little
guidance. I will be using the lathe for some learning and R&D in my home
shop.

I was initially seeking a 7x12 lathe. However, recently I began looking for
an 8x12 or 8x14 mini-lathe, as I read that they are better (more solid,
accurate, etc.) than the 7x? and 9x? series lathes. I have no clue whether
that's true. I'm finding it hard to find a selection of Canadian suppliers
of 8x? units. So, now I am back to considering the 7x12 once again.

So, a few questions:

1. Is the Craftex CX704 lathe considered a good one in the 7x12 size?

2. When the 7x12 indicates 0-1100 and 0-2500 spindle speeds, can the lathe
actually operate at speeds as low as 20 RPM say? If so, why cannot the 10x22
model do the same (specs indicate low ranges of 100 and 200 RPM)

3. Is the 7x12 easily CNC-able? Any idea of the cost & effort to do so?
(I've already built a CNC machine, so I'm very familiar with the much of the
fundamentals, G-code, stepper, controller, SolidWorks, etc.)

4. Does this seem like a good starting point for somebody just learning to
use a lathe (I'm a professional engineer, 20+yrs experience, love to build
stuff, etc.)?

My limitations are the amount of floor space I wish to dedicate to the lathe
(7x12 seems great in this respect).

Any and all comments would be welcome.

Thank you!

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
, R Thompson wrote:

Hi Don,

I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
fit.

But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.

Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
price.

BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
machine shop in grades 9 and 10.

Ron

On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:

Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
purchase on my part.

It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.

I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.

Don Hamilton


---------------------------------------------------

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
, R Thompson wrote:

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >








Re: chatter

MERTON B BAKER
 

All true, but I've bought 3 that worked with no problem out of the box from
3 different resellers, non of which claimed to "check out & adjust" before
reselling, as MM does. Merely making an observation.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jerry Durand
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 11:07 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter


Any machine tool needs to be adjusted when installed. The MM might be
closer to working out of the box but I would still expect something to
get tweaked in shipping.

The heavier the machine, the more has to be done to it before you can
use it. Things warp and such just moving the machine.

A friend makes part of his living fixing brand new cars at car lots
before they're sold the first time. So, it's not limited to just
machine tools.

On 02/12/2013 04:06 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over
and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their
catalog for a couple of years.



Mert

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Hello from Yellowknife

 

OK, thank you! I agree that it looks very nice.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Robert Furmanak" wrote:

Since I have never seen an 8x16, I cannot give an authoritative response, which also relieves me of any conflict of interest issues! It certainly is a nice looking machine, however.



From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of machspace
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:53 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Hello from Yellowknife





Hi Robert,

Thank you for your advice. I didn't know any of that. I went to LittleMachineShop.com. First, I saw their 7x12 deluxe, which has 2 DROs, one on the compound rest, the other on the cross-slide. As you said, they are 500W.

Then, also at LMS, I saw their 3536 HiTorque 81???2?¡ª16 Bench Lathe, and noticed the *power cross-feed*, 1.34HP, etc. Do you think that the 8.5x16 (Sieg SC4) would be a better option than the 7x12? (Shoot, OK, given that this is a 7x12 group, that will be the last question that I'll ask about that one (hopefully I didn't break the rules on my very first day...:))

Thx!

--- In 7x12minilathe@... , "Robert Furmanak" wrote:

The Craftex looks like a Seig. Essentially the same machine as a Harbor
Freight, Mico Mark, Grizzly, and Little Machine Shop (which has a much more
powerful motor than the others.)



Yes, it will run at 20 RPM, but the torque is minimal. If that is a
concern, get the LMS. Or get a 7x14 or 7x16. They all have motors at
least 50 percent more powerful than the 7x10's or 12's. Typically 500 watts
vs. 300 in the Craftex. The LMS uses a stepper motor which is much better
at low RPM's Probably more amenable to CNC'ing, as well



Overall, they are great starter lathes, and capable of reasonable precision.
I have modified mine considerably, and as such, have not yet outgrown it.
While I have not CNC'd mine, I have put a DRO on it.



From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@... ]
On Behalf Of machspace
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 2:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Hello from Yellowknife







Hey guys,

I'm about to purchase my first lathe, a mini-lathe, and hoping for a little
guidance. I will be using the lathe for some learning and R&D in my home
shop.

I was initially seeking a 7x12 lathe. However, recently I began looking for
an 8x12 or 8x14 mini-lathe, as I read that they are better (more solid,
accurate, etc.) than the 7x? and 9x? series lathes. I have no clue whether
that's true. I'm finding it hard to find a selection of Canadian suppliers
of 8x? units. So, now I am back to considering the 7x12 once again.

So, a few questions:

1. Is the Craftex CX704 lathe considered a good one in the 7x12 size?

2. When the 7x12 indicates 0-1100 and 0-2500 spindle speeds, can the lathe
actually operate at speeds as low as 20 RPM say? If so, why cannot the 10x22
model do the same (specs indicate low ranges of 100 and 200 RPM)

3. Is the 7x12 easily CNC-able? Any idea of the cost & effort to do so?
(I've already built a CNC machine, so I'm very familiar with the much of the
fundamentals, G-code, stepper, controller, SolidWorks, etc.)

4. Does this seem like a good starting point for somebody just learning to
use a lathe (I'm a professional engineer, 20+yrs experience, love to build
stuff, etc.)?

My limitations are the amount of floor space I wish to dedicate to the lathe
(7x12 seems great in this respect).

Any and all comments would be welcome.

Thank you!

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
, R Thompson wrote:

Hi Don,

I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
fit.

But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.

Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
price.

BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
machine shop in grades 9 and 10.

Ron

On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:

Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
purchase on my part.

It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.

I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.

Don Hamilton


---------------------------------------------------

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
, R Thompson wrote:

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >








Re: Hello from Yellowknife

 

Hi Michael,

Thank you for the heads up! I'm located in Montreal, Canada. I have already spoken with LMS about the shipping and brokerage charges. There's not really another option if I want the SC4 though, which I'm leaning towards (unless I missed a Cdn supplier of this unit). We'll see , and I'll post an update. Thanks again!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Jablonski" wrote:

Just another comment for you.

You don't say where you are located, but keep in mind that the 8.5x16 lathe
is only shipped via a trucking company and they cannot be shipped via UPS
due to their shipping weight. Read the Shipping notes for that lathe on the
LMS website regarding liftgate charges.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16






-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of machspace
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 11:34 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Hello from Yellowknife






Hey guys,

I'm about to purchase my first lathe, a mini-lathe, and hoping for a little
guidance. I will be using the lathe for some learning and R&D in my home
shop.

I was initially seeking a 7x12 lathe. However, recently I began looking for
an 8x12 or 8x14 mini-lathe, as I read that they are better (more solid,
accurate, etc.) than the 7x? and 9x? series lathes. I have no clue whether
that's true. I'm finding it hard to find a selection of Canadian suppliers
of 8x? units. So, now I am back to considering the 7x12 once again.

So, a few questions:

1. Is the Craftex CX704 lathe considered a good one in the 7x12 size?

2. When the 7x12 indicates 0-1100 and 0-2500 spindle speeds, can the lathe
actually operate at speeds as low as 20 RPM say? If so, why cannot the 10x22
model do the same (specs indicate low ranges of 100 and 200 RPM)

3. Is the 7x12 easily CNC-able? Any idea of the cost & effort to do so?
(I've already built a CNC machine, so I'm very familiar with the much of the
fundamentals, G-code, stepper, controller, SolidWorks, etc.)

4. Does this seem like a good starting point for somebody just learning to
use a lathe (I'm a professional engineer, 20+yrs experience, love to build
stuff, etc.)?

My limitations are the amount of floor space I wish to dedicate to the lathe
(7x12 seems great in this respect).

Any and all comments would be welcome.

Thank you!


Enco code

Jerry Durand
 

We love our customers, and want to show our gratitude with an exclusive
customer appreciation offer. From now through Friday 2/15/13, use code:
LOVETEN to take an additional 10% off your entire order - No Minimums!
No Exclusions!

Hurry! Offer ends Friday, 2/15/13.

All The Best,
The Enco Team

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand


Re: chatter

Jerry Durand
 

Any machine tool needs to be adjusted when installed. The MM might be
closer to working out of the box but I would still expect something to
get tweaked in shipping.

The heavier the machine, the more has to be done to it before you can
use it. Things warp and such just moving the machine.

A friend makes part of his living fixing brand new cars at car lots
before they're sold the first time. So, it's not limited to just
machine tools.

On 02/12/2013 04:06 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their catalog for a couple of years.



Mert

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand


Re: chatter

 

Hi Bill,
I have read what others have said and most of it is good advice.
I had the same problem with my MM 7x16. The best thing I have done is to spring for a new pair of tapered roller bearings for the headstock. After changing out the headstock bearings and adjusting them up snug the problem was gone. I did a test cut last week on a piece of a 5/8" reamer shank which is machineable HSS. I chucked the piece in the three jaw chuck , spun it at about 1200 rpm and feeding with the carriage handwheel was able to easily remove .100" per side (.200" on the diameter) with absolutely no chatter. It cut like leaded screw stock. I you do this mod and set the bearings up snug you will see a vast improvement.
Dick

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bill" wrote:

Hi all I am a newbie , I am having difficulty with chatter even on light cuts. I am trying the tuning method explained in mini-lathe .com. I got a micro mark 7x16 lathe I have done a few light turning with it and went pretty well then I had to do a taper and thats when the problem began. I am having trouble adjusting the saddle mostly when I follow the instructions if I tighten the setscrews the saddle is very hard to move so obviously more than finger tight is too much does that make sense? Also the 1 mil it says to attain gap between ways and saddle would also make the saddle hard to move. I must be doing something wrong?
Bill


Re: chatter

MERTON B BAKER
 

Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their catalog for a couple of years.



Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter





my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not finished adj with shims.

george




------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter



Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.

If when you lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.

What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter



I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very frustrating to adjust.
Bill


Re: chatter

MERTON B BAKER
 

Probably, Bill. The reason the Wright brothers could fly their first
powered airplane was that, unlike all the other would-be inventors, they
were both experienced pilots, with many hours in the air flying similar
machines as gliders. Further, they had both cracked up & repaired those
machines several times, and knew a lot abut what to do and expect while in
the air. I tried this learning method myself when learning to fly, and,
just like the Wrights, found it both painful and expensive. I gave it up
and took lessons in a machine with dual controls and a licensed IP. Much
cheaper, & far safer. More fun, too. Same with lathes, but as you don't
have to leave the earth, a lot safer & easier. You should have bought or
borrowed, and read, at least 3 books on lathe operation, maintenance and
toolmaking before buying a lathe; those I have now take up about 3 feet of
shelf space. I had read only one, Igor Bensen's, before trying to learn to
fly from the printed page. Others have done it, but I took the easy way out
after the first expensive smash from an altitude of 3 feet. Now, about
adjusting the gibs on the cross slide:

You need a box end wrench to fit the locknuts, and an Allen wrench to fit
the little screws. Loosen the locknuts, and all the screws, one turn. You
should be able to run the cross slide back & forth the whole way with ease,
and be able to wiggle it a bit with hand pressure. Center it on the
carriage, tighen a central lock screw until the handwheel turns a bit
stiffly, hold the screw STILL! with the Allen wrench, and tighten the
locknut. The handwheel should turn now with much less resistance.
Tightening the locknut backs the adjusting screw out just the right amount.
Try this adjustment method a few times until you are familiar with what to
expect, and the handwheel tension is there, but very slight. Gain
experience. Run the cross slide back & forth over it's full range to check
for uniformity. If all is satisfactory with the one screw adjusted, repeat
the process with the others, working from the middle outward, and checking
the full travel each time. The top slide is adjusted in the same way.

We'll talk about the toolbit next.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 7:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] chatter


Hi all I am a newbie , I am having difficulty with chatter even on light
cuts. I am trying the tuning method explained in mini-lathe .com. I got a
micro mark 7x16 lathe I have done a few light turning with it and went
pretty well then I had to do a taper and thats when the problem began. I am
having trouble adjusting the saddle mostly when I follow the instructions if
I tighten the setscrews the saddle is very hard to move so obviously more
than finger tight is too much does that make sense? Also the 1 mil it says
to attain gap between ways and saddle would also make the saddle hard to
move. I must be doing something wrong?
Bill



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Opinion of Harbor Freight 8x12 lathe.

bob_guenthner
 

I've been looking for a mini lathe for a while. I put a wanted add on a local online site. I had a guy say he has the lathe in the subject line. Said he bought it about 8 years ago and hasn't used it much. I haven't looked at it yet, but would like some idea of price.

Any suggestions as to price are appreciated.

Bob


Re: Ice maiden.

John Lindo
 

Simon thanks.
I've sent Sarah a private e mail.
Good luck with your new venture.
Take care
John L
Spain


From: mcnally_simon
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 7:57 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ice maiden.

?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
>
> Interesting site.
> Not yet finished.
> www.icemaidenkits.com.?
>
>
> John L
> Spain
>
Hi John,

This is our website and as you said there are some other products waiting to go on to it, but they are still in the developmental stage. Also the site has been set up as uk only at the moment as it makes calculating postage easier. Thanks for your email earlier reminding me of that! However we do not have a problem shipping to other countries, we just need to work out the postage costs and add that into the ordering process. If anybody does want to order anything in the meantime please use the contact us section of the site, that way i will know which countries to add second (Seems Spain is first in the cue!). You should also get an email from us..

Best Regards

Simon McNally




Re: chatter

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

?Copper based alloys like brass and bronze require different tool bit geometry than tooling for other metals and plastics. In short, most materials - at least on these small lathes - will like some top/back rake so the sharp edge can slice into the material better, whereas tooling for bronze or brass should have zero back rake, as in flat topped. Brass doesn't slice or curly-Q away in a string like other metals or plastics, it kind of crumbles into a thick brass dust for lack of a better term. Once you see/hear/feel it machining right you will know what I am trying to describe.

?I bet if you turn metal or plastic your chatter goes away. But you need a flat topped tool bit, i.e. zero back rake, special just for brass. Its just a whole different animal than steel, aluminum, plastic, etc. Those crappy lathe tools with the soldered on carbide tips generally suck on these little machines because they have no top rake and neither can they hold a sharp edge like HSS can. (Some of them even have a negative rake which only large machines with lots of power and rigidity can get away with using. They are useless on a mini-lathe though.) But with brass those cheap flat topped/zero back rake carbide tipped tools suddenly try to work pretty well. If you have some try one, it will at least work better than any tool designed for steel/aluminum/plastic. Brass/bronze is finicky, if there is any back rake the tool will repeatedly and rapidly dig in and break loose - chatter - and that sounds like what you are running into. Wrong tooling for the material at hand.

?I had a link to a web page that showed the basic turning tool geometries and also showed the flat topped tooling shapes ideal for brass, and so of course I cannot find it now. Hmmm. Hopefully somebody will recall what I am talking about and post a link. (?)

?Cheers,
?John Z., York, Pa. USA.

On 2/11/2013 9:11 PM, William McBride wrote:

?

thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
Bill



Re: chatter

 

my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not finished adj with shims.
?
george


From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

?

Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.
?
If when?you?lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.
?
What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter

?

I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very frustrating to adjust.
Bill