Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Larry ,you can use a boring head to offset a center. Replace the boring bar with a 3/8" round stock and a 60¡ã point The point acts as a dead center and should be lubricated. There is at least one drawing on the web of an offset center made for turning tapers.There are only three components.The point,an adjustable sliding bar that holds the point,and the MT that holds the backplate. The sliding bar is slotted, the back plate is threaded.The slot length determines how much offset you can get. I use the boring head myself as it has a ?MT#3 which fits the tailstock of my larger lathe.
mike
From: Larry White
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2012 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
?
Dick
"offset able tail stock center" I guess I've never seen one.??Do
you have any pictures or better yet, any drawings.? Sounds like an
interesting attachment
Thanks
Larry
Central Texas
?
?
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 9:46
PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tail stock
alignment on Seig lathes
?
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator
held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel
to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail
stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not
foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset
able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies
covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar
thing. Do you foresee any problems with my
solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
I aligned the tail stock of my 12x36 lathe with a coaxial indicator. After that, I was no longer unintentionally turning tapers.
I thought of using a dial indicator, but never did.
Donald
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
There's an absolutely beautiful
Craftsman/Atlas 10 X 24 on ebay right now, but it's at the upper
end of my limit (and then you have to buy tooling) and it's too
far away, but it's what I'd like to have...that plus a small lathe
for the really little stuff...I do some modeling though most of my
"models" are in the scale of 1:1.
Mark
On 11/15/12 3:48 PM, michael kolchins wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Mark, since you have used machine tools in the
past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20
would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I
have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on
the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of
years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use
the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used
infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I
bought my first lathe I had no experience working
metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was
a good idea.
Being that you
have some experience,even though it was in the
"distant past" you could save yourself some money and
buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size
work you do will determine what lathe you need.
I've made a few
shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I
have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the
spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle
lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I
sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the
treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my
satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few
years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used
this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and
under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the
noise. Police officer came around one morning and told
me to turn the engine off.
I did turn it
off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the
saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him.
I wound up
selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs.
mike
?
Hello,
I have a major interest in home shop
machining, partly in support of automotive
hobbies but also just for fabrication
purposes (small equipment, tools, models,
etc). For some weird reason I can't
explain, I am also interested in making my
shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling
machines, etc) but have to be tempered by
reality so I can otherwise get things
done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe
but have extreme interest in picking one
up near term. I've been looking small
(Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10
inch swing...yes they get pricey) and
would be interested in any advice on the
best choice for a first lathe. I've been
buying books from Lindsay Publications for
more than 20 years...and yes I know they
are going out of business in Feb 2013. I
have their "last catalog". I also have
some vintage Southbend publications. In
the distant past, I've done quite a bit of
fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper,
welding, all the other typical tool
suspects and so am not a complete novice,
but have been a way from it for quite a
while as well.
Mark
Knoxville, TN USA
__._
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
It is straightforward to modify the tailstock so it is easier to align plus it remains as set.
See:
LMS has plans for a similar scheme.
One difficulty with pinning is that the tailstock needs some TLC to get it to lock into the same position each time. My machine needs some side force applied to the tailstock or it can vary a couple thou each time it is locked down. This was more random prior to removing ridges in the tailstock V.
Also, the headstock alignment to the ways should be verified/corrected prior to aligning the tailstock - not something you can take for granted on the 7x12. One method is described here:
Note that the tailstock is typically a couple thou high and one method for correcting this is to shim the headstock up to match while aligning it to the ways. Further, the ram may not travel parallel to the ways as it is extended. Nor is the ram's taper always parallel to the ram travel. Lots of error possibilities with this tailstock implementation.
As a toolmaker you may have already handled these issues but others following this thread may benefit from this sketchy outline of how the various alignments interact.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
The tail stock adjustment system is poorly designed and I would prefer that I would not be addressing tail stock alignment from time to time. There may be a better method to deal with the poor design and that is what I hope to discover. I have not yet thought through all my options. I am just on a fact finding mission at this point. I am one who thinks things through before making any changes.
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Alan Muller <alan@> wrote:
Can you explain what you would gain from pinning
the tailstock castings together?
At 03:46 AM 11/16/2012 +0000, you wrote:
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my
lathe using a dial indicator held in the
headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the
tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I
also would then fasten the two parts of the tail
stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the
alignment in position. I do not foresee a need
to offset the tail stock in the future because I
have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but
would like to hear from others who might have
done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
On my 7xs, I have a boring head, mounted on a #2MT. Set with the slide
horizontal, and with a center where the boring bar normally goes, it can be
offset with the micrometer screw. The rudimentary TS offset provided with
the lathe can be carefully centered properly once, and then left alone. The
#2 taper fits my 12x also. I bought the boring head at HF. On sale, of
course.
Mert
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Larry White
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2012 9:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Dick
"offset able tail stock center" I guess I've never seen one. Do you have
any pictures or better yet, any drawings. Sounds like an interesting
attachment
Thanks
Larry
Central Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 9:46 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial
indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail
stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two
parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in
position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future
because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from
others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with
my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Dick
"offset able tail stock center" I guess I've never seen one.??Do
you have any pictures or better yet, any drawings.? Sounds like an
interesting attachment
Thanks
Larry
Central Texas
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 9:46
PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tail stock
alignment on Seig lathes
?
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator
held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel
to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail
stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not
foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset
able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies
covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar
thing. Do you foresee any problems with my
solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
The tail stock adjustment system is poorly designed and I would prefer that I would not be addressing tail stock alignment from time to time. There may be a better method to deal with the poor design and that is what I hope to discover. I have not yet thought through all my options. I am just on a fact finding mission at this point. I am one who thinks things through before making any changes.
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Alan Muller <alan@...> wrote:
Can you explain what you would gain from pinning
the tailstock castings together?
At 03:46 AM 11/16/2012 +0000, you wrote:
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my
lathe using a dial indicator held in the
headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the
tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I
also would then fasten the two parts of the tail
stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the
alignment in position. I do not foresee a need
to offset the tail stock in the future because I
have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but
would like to hear from others who might have
done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Hi Dick,
Given your "old toolmaker" handle, you have probably already thought of this, but it might be as well to do the check with the ram both extended and retracted, to make sure it is true with the ways.
Andy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe
Thanks! ?Now I just have to get the lathe tuned up.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 3:38 AM, mce600 <mce600@...> wrote:
?
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke wrote:
>
> I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
> mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
> (1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
> together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
> Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
> mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
> ideally 5 for powering a small launch.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
Have a look here
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Hi Dick:
Your method will work, but I think it's more reliable to insert a dead-center and sweep the outside of the hardened point. It's easier to see any offset visually, and easier to sweep. Sweeping the inside surface restricts the position of the test point to a small band and the point has to slide on a steep angle of the inside curve. Also the socket is unhardened and may have rough spots near the end. I think the dead center will give a truer representation of the actual center.
mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
Can you explain what you would gain from pinning the tailstock castings
together?
At 03:46 AM 11/16/2012 +0000, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial
indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail
stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two
parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment
in position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the
future because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper
turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from
others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems
with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Tail stock alignment on Seig lathes
I am thinking of aligning the tail stock on my lathe using a dial indicator held in the headstock chuck and sweeping the inside of the tail stock barrel to get a zero zero reading. I also would then fasten the two parts of the tail stock with a pair of dowel pins to lock the alignment in position. I do not foresee a need to offset the tail stock in the future because I have an offset able tail stock center for taper turning.
I think I have all contingencies covered, but would like to hear from others who might have done a similar thing. Do you foresee any problems with my solution?
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Hello from Yellowknife
Hi Don,
I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
fit.
But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.
Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
price.
BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
machine shop in grades 9 and 10.
Ron
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:
Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
purchase on my part.
It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.
I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.
Don Hamilton
---------------------------------------------------
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson <ve8rt@...> wrote:
Thanks Roy,
I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.
Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.
While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >
|
Thanks to all for the information and
the encouraging words. As a result, I've joined the Gingery list,
and looked up some of the info. I'll also check a few of the
places out that I haven't been to yet. In the next couple of
months I hope to reconfigure my shop space which should make more
space available for machines, but I still won't have a lot of
space.
I also have air tools and a large compressor ( = noisy); I make a
point of not running between 9pm and 9am and otherwise the
neighbors don't see to mind, so I'll hope it stays that way.
Mark
On 11/15/12 3:48 PM, michael kolchins wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Mark, since you have used machine tools in the
past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20
would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I
have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on
the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of
years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use
the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used
infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I
bought my first lathe I had no experience working
metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was
a good idea.
Being that you
have some experience,even though it was in the
"distant past" you could save yourself some money and
buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size
work you do will determine what lathe you need.
I've made a few
shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I
have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the
spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle
lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I
sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the
treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my
satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few
years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used
this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and
under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the
noise. Police officer came around one morning and told
me to turn the engine off.
I did turn it
off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the
saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him.
I wound up
selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs.
mike
?
Hello,
I have a major interest in home shop
machining, partly in support of automotive
hobbies but also just for fabrication
purposes (small equipment, tools, models,
etc). For some weird reason I can't
explain, I am also interested in making my
shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling
machines, etc) but have to be tempered by
reality so I can otherwise get things
done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe
but have extreme interest in picking one
up near term. I've been looking small
(Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10
inch swing...yes they get pricey) and
would be interested in any advice on the
best choice for a first lathe. I've been
buying books from Lindsay Publications for
more than 20 years...and yes I know they
are going out of business in Feb 2013. I
have their "last catalog". I also have
some vintage Southbend publications. In
the distant past, I've done quite a bit of
fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper,
welding, all the other typical tool
suspects and so am not a complete novice,
but have been a way from it for quite a
while as well.
Mark
Knoxville, TN USA
__._,
|
Welcome, Mark! ?I live right down the road, in Sevier county, near Dollywood. Check craigs list and the local gov. auctions. I found a Logan 820 on CL earlier this year 10" x 24" needed lots of work. The stuff is out there. Oak Ridge, I think has stuff occasionally, even though I think I would bring a Geiger counter! There was a bunch of big stuff at the sevier county fairgrounds setting outside, but its gone.? The little stuff is around, you just have to keep looking. I started to build a lathe, got real close to finishing. You can see it on my forum. I was looking on CL for tooling when I found the Logan. Google gov. liquidation. They
sell a lot, but in Nashville. Kentucky sells some in Campbell County on Ebay. There is supposed to be what i was told an " old man in knoxville with everything imaginable for sale" but haven't got the info yet. Supposedly another in Newport. I am sure you have been to Harbor freight in north Knoxville. and there is "work shop tools" in sevierville next to the knife works place has tiny lathes and other fair sized metal equipment.? Shopfox stuff. I didn't measure, but they had a metal lathe the looked more like a 4 x 10 I could almost put in a coat pocket! Good Luck neighbor! The stuff is out there, persevere!
?
|
Mark, since you have used machine tools in the past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20 would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I bought my first lathe I had no experience working metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was a good idea. Being that you have some experience,even though it was in the "distant past" you could save
yourself some money and buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size work you do will determine what lathe you need. I've made a few shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the noise. Police officer came around one morning and told me to turn the engine off. I did turn it off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him. I wound up selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs. mike
From: "mark@..." <mark@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list
?
Hello,
I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of
automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small
equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't
explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even
lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so
I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe
but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been
looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch
swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice
on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from
Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they
are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog".
I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant
past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine,
shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a
complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as
well.
Mark
Knoxville, TN USA
|
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")
Just a note: Building codes specify the MINIMUM acceptable practice. ?You can always exceed the specification. ?I've had several discussions with local inspectors over this not being what they expected, vs exceeding the specifications. ?Was really fun when I did the garage in rigid conduit instead of romex.
Gordon
?
Gordon Taylor Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 15Nov2012, at 10:15 , Alan Muller < alan@...> wrote:
?
At 09:47 AM 11/15/2012 -0800, you wrote:
?
On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:
Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for
gas.
Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's
safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use
it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have
a higher opinion of you.
It's impossible to over-emphasize this point.? The code is what the
inspector says it is.? Many people post opinions on code issues on
the Internet assuming that whatever they were told in their jurisdiction
is universal.? It isn't.? That said, many jurisdictions have
little inspection and enforcement.? Especially in rural areas and on
farms, people are effectively on their own.? Two areas of difference
I know of:? (1)? Using galvanized pipe and fittings for
gas.? It has been found in some cases that the zinc reacts with
compounds in the gas.? Some places will not approve galvanized gas
pipe, and/or fittings.? Others, I think, will. (2) Using thread
sealing tape for gas.? Some tapes have approvals, some don't.?
Some jurisdictions allow use of the approved tapes (color coded), some
will not.
Gas varies in composition.? There was a situation on the East Coast
where a gas utility started using a lot of imported
"LNG."? Their system had lots of connections made with
compressed rubber donuts ("Dresser couplings")? The
different flavor of gas caused the rubber to shrink and there were lots
of leaks....and lots of litigation over responsibility.
Many people think that since threaded fittings now mostly come from China
or Mexico the quality has changed.? I have encountered malleable
fittings with cracks, and with the threads out of line.?
Here (50+ year old house) for a
remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a
short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is
rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it
in the trash and buy a new one.
I know there is more than one brand of this and the fittings aren't
identical.? But I thought it was only the sealing elements than
can't be reused.?? As noted, the stuff is very expensive.?
There is a failure mode involving pinholes caused by electrical
discharges--lightening strikes.? It needs to be bonded and grounded
per the instructions.
Industrial practice is to paint pipes different colors.? Gas=Yellow,
Sprinkler water=Red, etc.
*AHJ = Authority Having
Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the
building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.
** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook
it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed
the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.?
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:? jerrydurand
|
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")
At 09:47 AM 11/15/2012 -0800, you wrote:
?
On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:
Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for
gas.
Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's
safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use
it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have
a higher opinion of you.
It's impossible to over-emphasize this point.? The code is what the
inspector says it is.? Many people post opinions on code issues on
the Internet assuming that whatever they were told in their jurisdiction
is universal.? It isn't.? That said, many jurisdictions have
little inspection and enforcement.? Especially in rural areas and on
farms, people are effectively on their own.? Two areas of difference
I know of:? (1)? Using galvanized pipe and fittings for
gas.? It has been found in some cases that the zinc reacts with
compounds in the gas.? Some places will not approve galvanized gas
pipe, and/or fittings.? Others, I think, will. (2) Using thread
sealing tape for gas.? Some tapes have approvals, some don't.?
Some jurisdictions allow use of the approved tapes (color coded), some
will not.
Gas varies in composition.? There was a situation on the East Coast
where a gas utility started using a lot of imported
"LNG."? Their system had lots of connections made with
compressed rubber donuts ("Dresser couplings")? The
different flavor of gas caused the rubber to shrink and there were lots
of leaks....and lots of litigation over responsibility.
Many people think that since threaded fittings now mostly come from China
or Mexico the quality has changed.? I have encountered malleable
fittings with cracks, and with the threads out of line.?
Here (50+ year old house) for a
remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a
short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is
rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it
in the trash and buy a new one.
I know there is more than one brand of this and the fittings aren't
identical.? But I thought it was only the sealing elements than
can't be reused.?? As noted, the stuff is very expensive.?
There is a failure mode involving pinholes caused by electrical
discharges--lightening strikes.? It needs to be bonded and grounded
per the instructions.
Industrial practice is to paint pipes different colors.? Gas=Yellow,
Sprinkler water=Red, etc.
*AHJ = Authority Having
Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the
building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.
** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook
it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed
the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.?
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:? jerrydurand
|
Thanks to all for the help in my query.
If anyone is interested here's a link to a pic of one of two similar thread protectors I made for my heavily modified Ruger 10/22. ?
I used a tap rather than lathe cutting the internal threads. ?These were pretty simple, fun projects that got my rifle looking more like I want it to look.
Pete
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Saturday, November 10, 2012, Pete Lilja < plilja@...> wrote:
> I'm planning to make a thread protector for a rifle barrel.? My reference material doesn't list the drill bit size for a 1/2" x 28 TPI thread.? Can anyone help? > > Pete >
|
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where
We have exactly the same situation here in the UK (except ours are normally yellow) and for the same reasons. Another that you did not mention is that the pipe is a great deal more robust requiring no corrosion protection or maintenance and is a great deal more resilient against ground movement.
Whilst we do not have a problem with earthquakes as you have in parts of the US we have considerable numbers of towns cities and built up areas fiddled with deep mine workings that collapse regularly.
Water mains pipes and sewers are also regularly laid or replaced in plastics.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: stan2778@...
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 03:53:50 -0800
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and
camera cable releases where
A lot of gas mains are plastic now. Usually orange, comes on a roll.
They melt it together to couple it. Never looked like a good idea to
me. When they bore under roads and such it is cheaper easier and
faster.
STAN CAMPBELL
|
GadgetBuilder
OldToolmaker
gerry waclawiak