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Re: lathe table
Yup! Several coats & pay particular attention to the edges.
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Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
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Re: lathe table
Jerry Durand
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI used a commercial cookie sheet, aluminum with steel rim reinforcing.You can see it in the photo of the hand-wheel mod I did Under the two milling machines I have automotive drip pans, basically over sized cookie sheets and come in various sizes. On 10/13/2011 06:03 PM, Randal Williams wrote:
-- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: lathe table
Randal Williams
For extra protection around it, you could lay down a layer of aluminum or stainless sheet under the lathe.? It will keep the cutting fluids from attack the varnish and eating into the wood. -rw From: george curtis To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 5:43 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe table
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i'm using 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf. so varnish, etc should be enough ?
thanks,
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george
From: Ward Miller To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thu, October 13, 2011 5:00:24 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe table ? George, 3/4" MDF would work just fine.? Seal it with several coats of varnish first. |
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Re: lathe table
i'm using 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf. so varnish, etc should be enough ?
thanks,
?
george
From: Ward Miller To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thu, October 13, 2011 5:00:24 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe table ? George, 3/4" MDF would work just fine.? Seal it with several coats of varnish first. |
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Re: Finally, a project!
Web Williams
Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess I don't have much
choice but to farm this work out. Due to the nature of the project (Coehorn mortar barrel) it's not possible (from a safety standpoint) to substitute a tube and cap. The powder chamber requires a certain amount of web to retain the pressure. Back to the grindstone, thanks everyone!!! -Web (in Myrtle Beach, SC) |
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Re: lathe table
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGeorge, 3/4" MDF would work just fine.? Seal it with several coats of varnish first. |
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Re: Finally, a project!
Jerry Durand
On 10/13/2011 04:34 PM, Charles wrote:
Or find a way to design around it. For example, maybe what you need could be handled with a length of tube somebody could cut and you could make end caps to weld in. (I know that probably isn't a solution in your case, but making a fabrication of more manageable parts is sometimes a solution.)A practical example of this is the solid fuel boosters used on the Space Shuttle. The original design had them made as one piece, but the lowest bidder was on the other side of the country and the only way to get them to Florida was to make them in pieces and assemble them later. If someone else near a major waterway had been the lowest bidder, we wouldn't have had the Challenger Disaster. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Finally, a project!
All good answers:
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You are now being introduced to the "specsmanship" of lathe specifications. Actually, if you removed the saddle, you probably could get a 7 inch by 12 inch cylinder between centers going round and round. But about all you could do is watch it. Another way to look at lathe specifications is that you could turn something 12 inches long, or 7 inches diameter (with great difficulty), but not both. Choose one. Actually, the clearance over the ways is usually most meaningful when needing to clear a large part while turning or boring a much smaller diameter of it. Drilling a hole in a large disk is an obvious example. But boring the cylinder hole in a steam engine casting is another. The size of the casting may not clear the compound, but might clear the ways so you would be in good shape. Except for certain situations where you are willing to take on extra grief, a good rule of thumb is to get a lathe with twice the swing of the largest diameter you will routinely be turning. Or for the occasional situation beyond the machine, find somebody with a machine that is big enough. Or find a way to design around it. For example, maybe what you need could be handled with a length of tube somebody could cut and you could make end caps to weld in. (I know that probably isn't a solution in your case, but making a fabrication of more manageable parts is sometimes a solution.) Chuck K. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote:
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Re: Finally, a project!
Andrew Franks
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
For a hobby lathe, that's major engineering, and?I'd farm it out. It won't fit over the cross-slide (or even over the carriage). And to bore it, you would need a boring bar 12" long, so to start at the outer end, your toolpost would need to be at least 24" from the?headstock end of the workpiece, and would need skyhooks for support. ? Andy ? To: 7x12minilathe@... From: wy3xinsc@... Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 22:37:18 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Finally, a project! ?
I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least.
Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one.. My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part. Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself? Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC |
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Re: Finally, a project!
MERTON B BAKER
Sorry, no. You are limited by the swing over the carriage, and, while it is
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theoretically possible to turn a 7" flywheel, you will find that getting the toolbit onto the surface is tricky, and necessitates rigging a special tool post. another limitation on large diameter work is power. Cutting rates are in surface feet per minute, and the larger the diameter, the slower it has to go. The Asian 7xs, as a rule, are not happy at slow rpms. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of wy3xinsc Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 6:37 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Finally, a project! I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least. Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one.. My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part. Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself? Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Finally, a project!
Jerry Durand
It won't fit over the cross slide, so...no, won't work.
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On 10/13/2011 03:37 PM, wy3xinsc wrote:
I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least. --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Finally, a project!
wy3xinsc
I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least.
Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one.. My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part. Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself? Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC |
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Re: used minilathes
It's my experience that used smaller machine tools often sell for a remarkably high percentage of their retail price. Especially if there is a little tooling thrown in to "sweeten" the deal.
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There just seem to be a lot of people who want a small lathe at home so it is somewhat of a sellers market. I would first try to sell it locally to avoid any shipping hassle. You know, Craigs List or local ads. There's enough money and weight to make it worth it for someone to drive a substantial distance to pick it up. (And the buyer can know they are saving themselves retailer shipping charges that way making the deal better yet for them.) It's almost (but not quite) like selling one of the Bose Wave radios. I have seen these things, new in the box, being auctioned on ebay where the bidding gets to within 1 dollar of just buying a new one. These mini-lathes might not be at that extreme, but I think the desirability is more like that than not. Chuck K. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Jablonski" <michaeljab@...> wrote:
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Re: used minilathes
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWell
here are some determining factors that may help you decide what you want to pay
for it.
?
1.
What size MicroMark are you referring to? The new 7x16 or the older 7x14 with
the built in digital speed readout?
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2. Are
you picking it up or having to have it shipped? If it ships it needs to be
broken down into two boxes (7x16 only) because of the the weight. MicroMark adds
$65 for shipping in the US.
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3. If
you are picking it up, it is probably already assembled. This will save you some
time, but assembling it does provide you with a small education of the
lathe.
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I
bought my MM 7x16 for $729.95 + $65 S&H in October of this year when
MicroMark normally puts their machines on sale. Now it lists for $795.95 + $65
S&H
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It is
a really nice lathe with lots of power. The compound, cross feed, and tail stock
are all True-Inch. All the other threads on any screws or bolts on the lathe are
metric.
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Good
luck,
Michael
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Re: used minilathes
Jim Dunmyer
Be aware that the present MM lathe is a 7X16 that sells for $795.00. It has a 500 watt brushless motor and no gear shift, so is a bit quieter than most others. The usual accessories are included: wrenches, change gears, and outside chuck jaws. The tailstock is a cam-lock design, and there is an OPTIONAL tachometer. The full info is here: ,9615.html
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A year or so ago, MM sold a 7X14 lathe that had a slightly smaller motor with a gear shift that uses metal gears. It's a bit noisier than the models with plastic gears, albeit should be a bit more durable. The digital tachometer was builtin and included, tailstock was camlock. It sold for $595.00, and included the above accessories. Both lathes are "True Inch", so there is no error in the cross-slide and compound lead screws, the travel is .050" per revolution. Most others use a metric thread that gives you pretty close to .040"/rev. I bought my MM 7X14 in like-new condition from a fella who had picked it up in a trade. Unfortunately, both of us confused it with the 7X16, so I paid too much. However, I AM happy with the machine. My previous one was a H.F. 7X10, and the lack of "headroom" bugged me. I was otherwise quite happy with the lathe. To answer your question, the price would depend on which one it is. A fair price for a like-new machine (to me) would be list minus $100.00 ->$200.00. Dunno about metric lathes, but if you want to cut metric threads, you can get "close enough" for many threads with the stock gears. Add a 21-tooth gear into the mix and you can get "close enough" for a bunch more threads. See: In my experience, the MM lathes need the same TLC by the new owner as any of the others of this genre. <<Jim>> ----- Original Message -----
From: "gwelo62" <gwelo62@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:03 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] used minilathes What is a fair price for a used micromark lathe? It looks almost unused. |
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
In the thread gear train this is the bushing the pair of gears in the center of the 4 gear arrangement mount to and the shaft that bushing runs on. Paul M
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chuck" <chunk07@...> wrote:
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Re: Damaged compound
lists
In article <OOEBKAFCDAGNJFABEHBHOEEJHCAA.mertbaker@...>,
MERTON B BAKER <mertbaker@...> wrote: Okay, we have two different suggestions here. In the first one, thePing! The light just came on, you're putting a thread on the /outside/ of the plug to screw it into the topslide and then threading the inside with it loctited in place. -- Stuart |
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