¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: lathe table

Randal Williams
 

A mixture of Simple Green and Dawn work great as a cleaner for the epoxy.? If you work in your garage and prone to dropping small parts on the floor, like myself, those little paint chips they provide to help break up the color are your worst enemy.? It is amazing how it helps to hide small parts like scope mounting screws and springs.

-rw


From: Vince Vielhaber
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table

?

Well I'm glad I didn't put it on my floor then. I clean alot of oily
things with brake clean and don't always do it over the sink.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, Randal Williams wrote:

> The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent.
>
> -rw
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 9:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table
>
>
> ?
>
> I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would
> work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It
> would certainly seal and protect it.
>
> On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote:
>
>> Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.
>>
>> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis wrote:
>>>
>>> my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what
>>> is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on.
>>> thanks,
>>> ?
>>> george
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> Vince.
> --
> Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/
>

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.



Re: lathe table

 

Well I'm glad I didn't put it on my floor then. I clean alot of oily
things with brake clean and don't always do it over the sink.



On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, Randal Williams wrote:

The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent.

-rw



________________________________
From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table


?

I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would
work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It
would certainly seal and protect it.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote:

Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis <gcvisalia@...> wrote:

my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what
is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on.
thanks,
?
george



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


Re: Finally, a project!

Jerry Durand
 

On 10/14/2011 09:41 AM, John Brookes wrote:
I just jumped in here. The machining of the brass mortar barrel interesting. I notice he made a cutting tool from heating and quenching ordinary CRS. Is this generally possible?
Of course, brass is soft, and thats why he can get away with it.
If you were making a mortar with modern materials, wouldn't you just use steel pipe? In WW2, the military used light weight mortars. How did they overcome the problem of excessive weight which plagued these CW pieces?
JB
You'd want seamless ductile pipe, like hot roll but without the weld.
Cold rolled has a nasty tendency to crack/shatter under explosive
loads. This doesn't keep people from making guns out of DOM tube, it's
just not the safest it could be.

I do professional fireworks and we use seamless HDPE tubes for our guns
because it will stretch and tear (like hot roll and brass), not shatter
and throw shrapnel. Steel guns used for the larger shells are buried in
the ground or in a 55 gallon drum of sand since we normally can't get
seemless tube in large IDs (up to 24").

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand


Re: lathe table

Randal Williams
 

The drying time of the epoxy when you roll it on the floor is stated to be 7 days.? I have done three different garages with the stuff.? You can get it to dissolve with carb or brake cleaner if you are not careful.? The recommendation for putting a large aluminum pan under the lathe is excellent.

-rw


From: Vince Vielhaber
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe table

?

I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would
work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It
would certainly seal and protect it.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote:

> Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis >>
>> my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what
>> is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on.
>> thanks,
>> ?
>> george
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/



Re: Finally, a project!

 

I just jumped in here. The machining of the brass mortar barrel interesting. I notice he made a cutting tool from heating and quenching ordinary CRS. Is this generally possible?
Of course, brass is soft, and thats why he can get away with it.
If you were making a mortar with modern materials, wouldn't you just use steel pipe? In WW2, the military used light weight mortars. How did they overcome the problem of excessive weight which plagued these CW pieces?
JB

On Oct 14, 2011, at 11:16 AM, ralph_pattersonus wrote:

I think this is the project that was referred to...


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote:

I have a 2" x 24" boring bar, which I used to do the cannons. Still a reach
on a 12x36, & requires a jig. I had a friend with a 2.5" dia. gun drill to
ease the labor. Mert


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of "hanermo" - CNC 6-axis
Designs
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 7:51 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!




Agree 100% with Mert.

I could do it with a 7x - but would not.
It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide
to control the toolbit.
The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x.
The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate.

I could do it with my 12x, but might not.
The bore is too deep for easy work.
Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow.

I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work
for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above.
For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available.
Making one is not impractical, also.

Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe.
About half of nominal swing.
At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is
relative.)

Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4
hours.
12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or
depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter.
If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70
passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the
later ones where rpm will be about 150).
You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5
inches.
That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours.
Could be more.
Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if
the lathe is a big enough one.

You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who
will do it for 10-20-30$/hr.
They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax
their machines.
An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs ..

Let us know how it goes, pics please ..


Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though,
and I
have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a
list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and
make a
few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too
big
to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years
in
this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop
you.

Mert



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: lathe table

 

I'm just throwing this out there 'cuze I don't know how well it would
work on MDF, but what about epoxy, like you use on cement floors. It
would certainly seal and protect it.


On Fri, 14 Oct 2011, mattdbartlett wrote:

Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis <gcvisalia@...> wrote:

my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what
is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on.
thanks,
?
george



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


Re: lathe table

mattdbartlett
 

Hmm, MDF is pretty delicate. You might want to think about covering that with something else, like a piece of galvanized, or a sheet of masonite. If you just want to protect from oil (mdf is pretty absorbent), maybe a couple coats of water based polyurethane. That should make the mdf a little tougher if you stick with just the plain mdf.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., george curtis <gcvisalia@...> wrote:

my bil is gonna put my lathe table together for me. we are wanting to know what
is best to protect the table, mdf, before we put the lathe on.
thanks,
?
george


Re: Finally, a project!

 

I think this is the project that was referred to...

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote:

I have a 2" x 24" boring bar, which I used to do the cannons. Still a reach
on a 12x36, & requires a jig. I had a friend with a 2.5" dia. gun drill to
ease the labor. Mert


-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of "hanermo" - CNC 6-axis
Designs
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 7:51 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!




Agree 100% with Mert.

I could do it with a 7x - but would not.
It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide
to control the toolbit.
The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x.
The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate.

I could do it with my 12x, but might not.
The bore is too deep for easy work.
Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow.

I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work
for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above.
For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available.
Making one is not impractical, also.

Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe.
About half of nominal swing.
At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is
relative.)

Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4
hours.
12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or
depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter.
If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70
passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the
later ones where rpm will be about 150).
You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5
inches.
That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours.
Could be more.
Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if
the lathe is a big enough one.

You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who
will do it for 10-20-30$/hr.
They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax
their machines.
An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs ..

Let us know how it goes, pics please ..


Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though,
and I
have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a
list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and
make a
few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too
big
to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years
in
this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop
you.

Mert


Re: used minilathes

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The new brushless motor"super"? versions of the mini-lathe are far more capable in the power and torque department than the older DC controlled versions (which are still available at a cheaper price)). The two speed gears are not missed and the torque is much superior at all speeds, especially when large diameter low speed is required. The risk of overheating in those conditions is less than the older models

Gerry
Leeds UK

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: my340sixpak@...
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 12:27:46 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: used minilathes

?
Im not sure having only 500 watts with no low gear is a good build IMHO, at low spindle rpm there is hardly any fan cooling going on in the motor.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim Dunmyer" wrote:
>
> Be aware that the present MM lathe is a 7X16 that sells for $795.00. It has
> a 500 watt brushless motor and no gear shift, so is a bit quieter than most
> others. The usual accessories are included: wrenches, change gears, and
> outside chuck jaws. The tailstock is a cam-lock design, and there is an
> OPTIONAL tachometer. The full info is here:
>
>
> A year or so ago, MM sold a 7X14 lathe that had a slightly smaller motor
> with a gear shift that uses metal gears. It's a bit noisier than the models
> with plastic gears, albeit should be a bit more durable. The digital
> tachometer was builtin and included, tailstock was camlock. It sold for
> $595.00, and included the above accessories.
>
> Both lathes are "True Inch", so there is no error in the cross-slide and
> compound lead screws, the travel is .050" per revolution. Most others use a
> metric thread that gives you pretty close to .040"/rev.
>
> I bought my MM 7X14 in like-new condition from a fella who had picked it up
> in a trade. Unfortunately, both of us confused it with the 7X16, so I paid
> too much. However, I AM happy with the machine. My previous one was a H.F.
> 7X10, and the lack of "headroom" bugged me. I was otherwise quite happy with
> the lathe.
>
> To answer your question, the price would depend on which one it is. A fair
> price for a like-new machine (to me) would be list minus $100.00 ->$200.00.
>
> Dunno about metric lathes, but if you want to cut metric threads, you can
> get "close enough" for many threads with the stock gears. Add a 21-tooth
> gear into the mix and you can get "close enough" for a bunch more threads.
> See:
>
>
> In my experience, the MM lathes need the same TLC by the new owner as any of
> the others of this genre.
>
>
> <>
>
>

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gwelo62" <gwelo62@...>
> To: <7x12minilathe@...>
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:03 PM
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] used minilathes
>
>
> > What is a fair price for a used micromark lathe? It looks almost unused.
> >
> > Are any of the US importers bringing in metric lathes?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>



Re: used minilathes

 

Im not sure having only 500 watts with no low gear is a good build IMHO, at low spindle rpm there is hardly any fan cooling going on in the motor.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@...> wrote:

Be aware that the present MM lathe is a 7X16 that sells for $795.00. It has
a 500 watt brushless motor and no gear shift, so is a bit quieter than most
others. The usual accessories are included: wrenches, change gears, and
outside chuck jaws. The tailstock is a cam-lock design, and there is an
OPTIONAL tachometer. The full info is here:
,9615.html

A year or so ago, MM sold a 7X14 lathe that had a slightly smaller motor
with a gear shift that uses metal gears. It's a bit noisier than the models
with plastic gears, albeit should be a bit more durable. The digital
tachometer was builtin and included, tailstock was camlock. It sold for
$595.00, and included the above accessories.

Both lathes are "True Inch", so there is no error in the cross-slide and
compound lead screws, the travel is .050" per revolution. Most others use a
metric thread that gives you pretty close to .040"/rev.

I bought my MM 7X14 in like-new condition from a fella who had picked it up
in a trade. Unfortunately, both of us confused it with the 7X16, so I paid
too much. However, I AM happy with the machine. My previous one was a H.F.
7X10, and the lack of "headroom" bugged me. I was otherwise quite happy with
the lathe.

To answer your question, the price would depend on which one it is. A fair
price for a like-new machine (to me) would be list minus $100.00 ->$200.00.

Dunno about metric lathes, but if you want to cut metric threads, you can
get "close enough" for many threads with the stock gears. Add a 21-tooth
gear into the mix and you can get "close enough" for a bunch more threads.
See:


In my experience, the MM lathes need the same TLC by the new owner as any of
the others of this genre.


<<Jim>>


----- Original Message -----
From: "gwelo62" <gwelo62@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] used minilathes


What is a fair price for a used micromark lathe? It looks almost unused.

Are any of the US importers bringing in metric lathes?




Re: Finally, a project!

MERTON B BAKER
 

Between centers only, & it's still a stunt, no practical use. Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of my340sixpak
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 8:21 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!


LOL, SKY HOOKS,, LOL, plus the chuck jaws would slam the bed 3 or 4 times a
rotate ;)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:


For a hobby lathe, that's major engineering, and I'd farm it out. It won't
fit over the cross-slide (or even over the carriage). And to bore it, you
would need a boring bar 12" long, so to start at the outer end, your
toolpost would need to be at least 24" from the headstock end of the
workpiece, and would need skyhooks for support.

Andy




To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: wy3xinsc@...
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 22:37:18 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Finally, a project!






I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make
some of the parts at least.

Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one..

My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore
a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by
12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have
no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm
out at least that one part.

Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this
stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the
lathe do this job without destroying itself?

Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Finally, a project!

MERTON B BAKER
 

I have a 2" x 24" boring bar, which I used to do the cannons. Still a reach
on a 12x36, & requires a jig. I had a friend with a 2.5" dia. gun drill to
ease the labor. Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of "hanermo" - CNC 6-axis
Designs
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 7:51 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!




Agree 100% with Mert.

I could do it with a 7x - but would not.
It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide
to control the toolbit.
The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x.
The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate.

I could do it with my 12x, but might not.
The bore is too deep for easy work.
Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow.

I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work
for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above.
For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available.
Making one is not impractical, also.

Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe.
About half of nominal swing.
At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is
relative.)

Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4
hours.
12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or
depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter.
If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70
passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the
later ones where rpm will be about 150).
You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5
inches.
That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours.
Could be more.
Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if
the lathe is a big enough one.

You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who
will do it for 10-20-30$/hr.
They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax
their machines.
An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs ..

Let us know how it goes, pics please ..


Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though,
and I
have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a
list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and
make a
few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too
big
to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years
in
this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop
you.

Mert


Re: Finally, a project!

 

LOL, SKY HOOKS,, LOL, plus the chuck jaws would slam the bed 3 or 4 times a rotate ;)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:


For a hobby lathe, that's major engineering, and I'd farm it out. It won't fit over the cross-slide (or even over the carriage). And to bore it, you would need a boring bar 12" long, so to start at the outer end, your toolpost would need to be at least 24" from the headstock end of the workpiece, and would need skyhooks for support.

Andy




To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: wy3xinsc@...
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 22:37:18 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Finally, a project!






I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least.

Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one..

My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part.

Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself?

Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC


Re: Finally, a project!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Agree 100% with Mert.

I could do it with a 7x - but would not.
It would involve building an external toolrest, and using a linear slide to control the toolbit.
The linear slide, new, costs more than a 7x.
The work involved would be maybe 100 hours.. by my estimate.

I could do it with my 12x, but might not.
The bore is too deep for easy work.
Ie it IS doable, but far too big/heavy/hard/slow.

I would search for someone who has a 2" thick boring bar, and this is work for industrial lathes in the 14x/3000 kg sizes, and above.
For my 12x I have a 1" one, and 1.5" ones are available.
Making one is not impractical, also.

Practical work sizes for a 7x are about 3" in steel, just like any lathe.
About half of nominal swing.
At a pinch, near nominal is doable, but very slow (everything is relative.)

Boring that much metal on a big industrial lathe will probably take 3-4 hours.
12" deep means the cuts need to be light, maybe no more than 1 mm DOC or depth, at a slow feed rate, to avoid excessive chatter.
If the total amount to be removed is say 6" or 140 mm, that means 70 passes at maybe 5 minutes per pass (could be a lot more, especially on the later ones where rpm will be about 150).
You did not mention how thick the walls need to be, I guesstimeate at 0.5 inches.
That might be 350 minutes, or almost 6 hours.
Could be more.
Of course, the first 6" depth could be taken at 2-4 mm depths of cut, if the lathe is a big enough one.

You will likely get your best price from a hobby semicommercial guy, who will do it for 10-20-30$/hr.
They will take a full day, but wont be in a hurry, and the job might tax their machines.
An industrial shop is likely to want 60$/hr x 3-4 hrs ..

Let us know how it goes, pics please ..

?

Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though, and I
have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a
list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and make a
few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too big
to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years in
this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop
you.

Mert



Re: Finally, a project!

MERTON B BAKER
 

Rome was no built in a day. I was not the foreman on that job though, and I
have advice. Keep your 7x12 for a while, buy a few books, (I'm making a
list, but there are some out there already) Play with your lathe, and make a
few projects. Find something to make that turns you on, and if it's too big
to fit on your 7x lathe build a working model that will. After 60 years in
this game, I can say that if you are really interested, nothing can stop
you.

Mert


Hardwick Machine "If you can pay, I can build it."

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of nissan.370z
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 12:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!


Surely need a larger lathe for that. Sounds like you are very new to lathes
like myself. Find some smaller projects to do, so you can learn more about
lathes and machining. Ask questions along the way etc., this way later on if
you decide to buy a larger lathe you will know much more and be able to get
use out of it right away.

I was going to wait till I had more room for a used SouthBend lathe much
larger than the 7x12 I purchased or get a 10x20 to start, but didn't want to
spend the money on a larger lathe when I have never used one yet (nor don't
really have the extra room for a large lathe "yet"). I have many small
projects to do and hope by the time I buy a large lathe I will be somewhat
knowledgeable with lathes and machining. So the more expensive lathe gets
used more and I can enjoy it.

good thing is, if you later upgrade to a larger lathe; these small lathes
seem to hold their value VERY well as I have seen used ones selling for
recently. I want to convert mine to CNC when I get a larger one though.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wy3xinsc" <wy3xinsc@...> wrote:

I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make
some of the parts at least.

Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one..

My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore
a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by
12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have
no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm
out at least that one part.

Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this
stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the
lathe do this job without destroying itself?

Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Finally, a project!

MERTON B BAKER
 

Interesting. Making beer can mortars is where my experience in this from.
I'm set up to bore 'em.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Web Williams
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:18 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!


Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess I don't have much
choice but to farm this work out. Due to the nature of the
project (Coehorn mortar barrel) it's not possible (from a
safety standpoint) to substitute a tube and cap. The powder
chamber requires a certain amount of web to retain the
pressure.

Back to the grindstone, thanks everyone!!!

-Web (in Myrtle Beach, SC)


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Finally, a project!

MERTON B BAKER
 

7X12 is the "Envelope". Actually understated; you could, I you had eaten
your Wheaties regularly, put a 7" dia. piece of steel shaft 14" long between
centers on a 7x"12", if you took the carriage off. I can tell you from
experience that such an object is not easy to pick up and put on the
machine, having turned and bored a few similar objects on my 12x36. (mortar
cannons) Pix? It would easily outweigh any of the 7x12s. All work on a
lathe has to be done within this envelope, which, if you look carefully at
the specs includes a "Swing over Cross Slide" item, which is the real
diameter limit.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Charles
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 7:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Finally, a project!


All good answers:

You are now being introduced to the "specsmanship" of lathe specifications.

Actually, if you removed the saddle, you probably could get a 7 inch by 12
inch cylinder between centers going round and round. But about all you
could do is watch it.

Another way to look at lathe specifications is that you could turn something
12 inches long, or 7 inches diameter (with great difficulty), but not both.
Choose one.

Actually, the clearance over the ways is usually most meaningful when
needing to clear a large part while turning or boring a much smaller
diameter of it. Drilling a hole in a large disk is an obvious example. But
boring the cylinder hole in a steam engine casting is another. The size of
the casting may not clear the compound, but might clear the ways so you
would be in good shape.

Except for certain situations where you are willing to take on extra grief,
a good rule of thumb is to get a lathe with twice the swing of the largest
diameter you will routinely be turning.

Or for the occasional situation beyond the machine, find somebody with a
machine that is big enough.

Or find a way to design around it. For example, maybe what you need could
be handled with a length of tube somebody could cut and you could make end
caps to weld in. (I know that probably isn't a solution in your case, but
making a fabrication of more manageable parts is sometimes a solution.)

Chuck K.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...>
wrote:

Sorry, no. You are limited by the swing over the carriage, and, while it
is
theoretically possible to turn a 7" flywheel, you will find that getting
the
toolbit onto the surface is tricky, and necessitates rigging a special
tool
post. another limitation on large diameter work is power. Cutting rates
are in surface feet per minute, and the larger the diameter, the slower it
has to go. The Asian 7xs, as a rule, are not happy at slow rpms.

Mert



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of wy3xinsc
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 6:37 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Finally, a project!


I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make
some
of the parts at least.

Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one..

My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore
a
piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by
12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have
no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to
farm
out at least that one part.

Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this
stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the
lathe do this job without destroying itself?

Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: lathe table

lists
 

In article <1318555072.12671.YahooMailNeo@...>,
Frank <usarmyfly@...> wrote:
I have a free counter top off of Craigslist. Works well so far.
My bench top is a laminated Beech* kitchen worktop from Ikea. It was
protected by giving several applications of Linseed oil. It works very
well.

*The type of thing where they take small blocks of wood and glue them
together on edge and end to make up a large piece.

--
Stuart


Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?

nissan.370z
 

Their tech is recommending replacement to the shipping department. There seems to be a light pulsating when in reverse, shaking the machine a little and when the switch is 100% for sure on off, I closed the emergency stop and it came on for a few seconds and started spinning!

I guess replacement is all I will accept at this point.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" <ebandit@...> wrote:

I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.

What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.


Re: Finally, a project!

nissan.370z
 

Surely need a larger lathe for that. Sounds like you are very new to lathes like myself. Find some smaller projects to do, so you can learn more about lathes and machining. Ask questions along the way etc., this way later on if you decide to buy a larger lathe you will know much more and be able to get use out of it right away.

I was going to wait till I had more room for a used SouthBend lathe much larger than the 7x12 I purchased or get a 10x20 to start, but didn't want to spend the money on a larger lathe when I have never used one yet (nor don't really have the extra room for a large lathe "yet"). I have many small projects to do and hope by the time I buy a large lathe I will be somewhat knowledgeable with lathes and machining. So the more expensive lathe gets used more and I can enjoy it.

good thing is, if you later upgrade to a larger lathe; these small lathes seem to hold their value VERY well as I have seen used ones selling for recently. I want to convert mine to CNC when I get a larger one though.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wy3xinsc" <wy3xinsc@...> wrote:

I finally have a project where I'm hoping to use my mini-lathe, to make some of the parts at least.

Question- and I hope nobody thinks this is a dumb one..

My lathe is a 7 x 12. Is it practical (or even possible) to turn and bore a piece of 1018 steel round stock that is precisely that size? (7" round by 12" long). That's the largest piece of the project. All other parts I have no doubt about the lathe being useable. If it won't work, I'll have to farm out at least that one part.

Admitted, I think I'll have to buy a new chuck large enough to accept this stock (if such a chuck exists, which is my next question), but will the lathe do this job without destroying itself?

Thanks, -Web in Myrtle Beach, SC