开云体育

G'day Vikki.
Looking at the comprehensive readings you have taken it appears as if
you tailstock is 8thou to the front, this would account for the
15thou taper you were getting.
Your quill alignment is good, IMHO i wouldn't do anything with that
until you have used the lathe for a while. BTW this is very good for
out of the box.
IMHO generally it is unwise to get into tuning up the lathe first off
short of cleaning up and making general adjustments eg gibs. Use the
lathe to allow surfaces to bed-in. The longer you leave it the more
time the bed has to normalise and stress relieve. Ultimately you will
get sick of working around the alignment inaccuracies and then it is
time for serious tuning.
I note that you mounted the DTI in the 3 jaw chuck. It is not safe to
assume the chuck is truely concentric, they are OK for general work,
but precision work should be either turned between centres or mounted
in a 4 jaw chuck with careful centering.
Here in Ox we have a bird called a Bower Bird. The male builds a
bower out of grass and twigs and then collect shiny objects to place
in the bower. When complete he invites females in to see his
collection, a bit like inviting girls back to see his etching. Your
colection of "shiny things" reminds me of that. Is your bower working?
I am impressed by your site.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day Vikki
Your site shows you have a dial indicator. Mount it on the cross
slide and extend the tail stock quill out to the limit of its

travel

and clamp it. Run the dial indicator along the side and top of the
quill. You may well find the dial indicator moves during the

travers

indicating that the quill is not parallel to the bed axis. Unless

you

have spent time working over the tailstock you will find that it

is

too high by up to 20 thou and the the quill alignment is out by

up to

the same amount.

That was the easy part :). Spent most of the evening working at
following these directions and I am still not sure I got this right.

If you would please look at:



The first 4 are checking the quill on the tailstock and it seems to

look

pretty good, Up by 0.001 in the back and toward the rear of the

lathe

by 0.0025 (closest to the tailstock, front of quill was used as

zero).

I spent yesterday finally getting my tailstock to
near "perfect" alignment and height yesterday, this has taken me

10

months of intermittent effort.

I can understand that after tonight :-). Made the measurements

several

different ways and many different times and got somewhat different
values. Still confused, but somewhat less so (I think :-).

Measuring the dead center with the DI clamped in the chuck, you see

the

results. I tried it using the quill end (just get the ball up on

it)

and got a different set of values:

Ball sitting on top (rear of ball touching) rather than front

touching

as in the pix referenced above:

<pre>
Ball back resting on top of quill, dial up............: reference

zero.

Ball back resting on front of quill, dial front......: -0.008 / -

0.0085

Ball back resting on bottom of quill, dial down..: -0.0035 / -0.004
Ball back resting on back of quill, dial rea.........: -0.005
</pre>

Pretending I am getting a clue here, that would make the back end

of

the work closer to the front of the lathe which would cut the

workpiece

thinner than the front (chuck end).

Many different variations in the different pieces, certainly a

challenge

to get them all working the right way. Starting to think this

little

7x12 is rather amazing for as good as it is out of the box after

being

shipped halfway across the planet!

I moved the clamping screw from under
to above the foot.

Need to figure out how to do that one, not clear to me why it is on

the

bottom in the first place, just seems wrong to me. So far what

tapers I

needed were short enough to do the math and set the compound
accordingly.

Don't use the rolling centre when making alignment;

Did indeed use the dead center that came with the lathe.

for critical work
use a dead centre with the tip lubricated with molebdenum grease.

Understand, thanks.

use the method which holds a shim between the centre to verify
alignment.

Do you mean crush (dent) the shim between a pointed rod in the chuck
against the center in the tailstock to see if they match up?

BTW. It turning between centres the alignment of the headstock

will

not effect the job. If the tailstock quill is not aligned then the
alignment with the headstock will differ as the quill is extended.

With it having been fully extended to get space to work, I was

getting

all it has to give :).

Keep up the work on the laser centre and edge finder, it looks a
great project.

Problem with using cheap laser pointers to do that is that NONE of

them

(that I have tried so far) project a decent dot, if a dot at all.

One

can get a donut pretty easily, but that requires better eyeballs

than I

have to use. I looked into decent laser modules (Digikey, IIRC)

and the

folks offering them for $40-$60 are one fantastic deal. Of the 5 I

have

tried so far, none was significantly better than the first one I did
:-/. If there are decent laser modules at affordable prices out

there,

I have been unable to locate them :-(.

Thanks very much & take care, Vikki.

I tried to cut my first threads, but couldn't get synched up for
additional cuts. I figured out the dial needs to be adjusted to begin
with to even get it to start turning, but it stops turning when I
engage the lead screw nut. Doesn't it need to turn the whole time,
even when I move the tool back to the beginning of the cut? If so, how
do I adjust this thing to keep it turning?
Ed

hello, seems like a few of us got a new machine this week. just a note
to them. I thought a neat little thing to start with would be a mt3
fly cutter, so i looked up the dems, set the compound to 5 and started
cutting. must have done that wrong too cause mine don't make chips.
just tiny fine curls. anyway the mt3 don't fit. looked it up again and
sure enuf, it says 5. what it don't say is that it's 5 total. not 5
from center line. an old hand could have spotted that right off, but
that's OK. I can start a fire with just a couple of sticks.
fri...

G'day gavin Andy, Steve et al.
There is some good advice here, but! I don't have a mill and am not
seriously looking at present. What I have seen is that the micro
mills and mini mills are quite limited when it comes to drilling.
Larger diameter drills have morse taper shanks, also they are
generally. A micro/mini may not have enough Zaxis to allow large
drills and the drive may not have enough grunt.
Regarding lathe attachments, the standard attachment is a large
fraction of the price of a micro mill, as Andy says it does not seem
a wise investment. The exception may be the Taig attachment which
appears quite flexible (use wise) and better value for the money.
For me, if I had twice the money to invest and twice the space I
would have purchased a much larger lathe with a decent milling
attachment rather than two limited machines.
As an alternative an erzats milling attachment could be made with a
piece of steel or aluminium angle (not my comments on not using
Aluminum). Here is Oz you can get 80 x 80 x 6 Ali angle. A cheapy
drill press vice, the type with mounting slots along the sides, could
be fixed to the angle. Adjustment would not be easy but what can you
expect for AUD$30. (63mm drill vice AUD14 + AUD10 for Ali angle +
nuts and bolts = AUD30). There are other options which use the
compound slide to provide the Y axis adjustment (see Varmint Al's
site). Some of these options may be rough eg MS or Ali angle may not
be exactly 90deg. but if this is important we have files or a cutter
can be put in a 4 jaw chuck and a pass take over the surface.
Building an adaption of the Varmint Al approach is my next major
lathe project, in the mean time I have a cross drilling atachment
which needs the finishing touches.
Summary of my opinions, The micro & mini mills are limited but a
better investment than the purchased milling attachment.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Gavin McIntosh"
<gavinmc3@...> wrote:

A milling slide vice for lathe means you are limited by the lathe

speed.

You will not be able to mill with the smaller bits which will need

higher

speeds.

Gavin

From: andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... Now

milling

attachment
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 02:48:23 +0100 (BST)

I've got one of those vertical slides. It's fittted by removing

the

topslide and fastening it down to the "swivel disk" in the cross-

slide. It

would have been better if it had T-slots to fasten jobs (or a

vise) to the

front of it, rather than that big, overhanging, "toolpost"

arrangement.

Check if your cross-slide will wind far enough over to make full

use of its

2.7" (approx) width. To adjust the depth of cut with a milling

cutter in

the chuck (or collet), the carriage handwheel isn't nearly precise

enough;

you will need a handwheel and graduated dial on the outboard end

of the

leadscrew. As I've previously remarked, I wish I'd put the money

into a

mini-mill fund.
Andy

Steve Claggett <790racer@...> wrote:
Have you seen this?

ProductID=1681&category=1

A friend has one, he is happy doing basic work, but he said it can
only handle small cuts or he has a chatter problem.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@>
wrote:

Hi, I too have a Seig 7x12 and have been wondering about

milling too,

The smaller lathe has a milling attachment one can buy - but it

won't fit

the 7x12 (I believe). Does anyone know of one that will fit? I

do

have a DVD

from Chronos UK that shows a Taig/Peatol attachment (with a few

minor mods)

being able to fit the 7x10/12. Has anyone any experience of

doing

this? If

so, what's the max capacity for milling?

I'm sure many will say - buy the Seig X-1/2/3 but Taig/Peatol

also do a

standalone milling machine for approx ?550 (UK Pounds). Is this

better than

the equivalent mill from Seig?

Thanks

Richard (UK)

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G'day all.
Well said John. Shimming and packing of work pieces is one of the
skills of the job. Fellow groupies will know by now that I am not a
fan of QCTPs. I am a cheapskate! But I do have 5 standard tool
holders all set up with a range of tools. That is equivalent to a
QCTP with at least 10 holders. Theoretically you could put 4 tools on
each standard holder but two tools is the minimum.
My advice, get used to shiming, any piece of flat scrap will do,
iron, brass or aluminium (don't use aluminum it is too soft!); tuna
tins are a good source, failing that brass sheet can be purchased
from a hobby shop.
One day I will build a QCTP just for the sake of it but at the moment
there are too many things to turn my hand to.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi,

If they are the red painted ones with braised carbide tips, they

are

crap. Other than practice the only reason for putting them in the
box was so you had something to do on Christmas afternoon if Santa
forgot the accessories.

Unless you get a QCTP, get used to shims. It's normal practice. If
your lathe is designed to support 5/16 tooling it will be
DELIBERATELY a tad low on 5/16" tools. That's to allow you to shim
the last bit. If they tried to get the height exact, tolerances
would often land them on the high side so shims wouldn't work. Of
course, you can grind HSS tools lower. But you get the idea. You're
actually MEANT to shim tools on fixed height turret holders.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "harleyknall" <knall@>
wrote:

I just got my cumming 7x12 mini lathe, it came with 5 crappy

5/16"

bits. They seemed to contact the work are a bit low, and needed

to be

shimmed UP.
I like the idea of being able to use the indexable bits (3

sided)

what size shank should I be looking to get?
1/4 " ? 3/8"?
Thanks guys.

Hi Steve,

The tangential has steeper than normal back and side rake - this
causes it to cut more easily (using less power) than regular tools but
also causes self-feeding on material like brass and even on some
aluminum and plastic when taking deep cuts. I expect that packing the
front of the sharpening jig up to reduce the back/side rake would
reduce the self-feed tendency but I infrequently cut brass so I
haven't tested this yet.

The other thing about the tangential is that the finish is generally
better cutting from left to right (or facing from center out) but the
cut must be shallow, 2-4 thou or chatter can occur. Roughing cuts are
done right to left, where I routinely cut up to 70 thou per pass in
steel.

Glad to hear you found other interesting gadgets on my site.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cedge11" <cedge@...> wrote:

John
I had the pleasure of building a Tangential cutter based on the
description on your web site. While it's not much for working in
brass, I find it winds up mounted on my QCTP far more often than any
cutting tool in my collection. I really love using it for turning and
facing steel, aluminum and even the odd bit of stainless. It still
amazes me at just how agressively it will cut when everything is nice
and sharp, yet it will do the finest of cuts with ease.

It's not all that difficult of a project and the results are quite
rewarding. After several months trial use, it's definitely a tool I'd
miss now that I've owned one.

I've "duplicated" a couple of the other tools shown on your site and
each added to the fun of operating my lathe, especially the tool post
mounted ball turning tool.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Check Frank Ford's site for how he adapted a similar large toolholder
to fit his QCTP:

Frank has lots of interesting ideas so his site is well worth checking
out.

The toolholder in the blurry picture looks like it is made for facing
while the shank is mounted perpendicular to the spindle axis (the
normal position).

My tangential for the QCTP is similar in some ways since it can turn
or face without changing position on the toolpost - depending on the
shape of the bit, the blurry holder might be able to do the same. The
difference would be the simplicity of making a jig to sharpen the
tangential.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@>
wrote:

Yeah, that 90 degree turn is a bit of a mystery alright.

It may not be out of the hands of the home shop machinist to build
his/her own tool holders. A short while back there was a discussion
about tangential tool holder, which for all purposes on our 7x's can
use 1/8" tool bits, and gadgetbuilder (where are ya' dude!...help me
out here...) has built a piece that sure inspires me. Before I can
make one, however, I am going to have to wait until I get myself a

mill...

Mark
==========

G'day Rance.
If Andy is right regarding the purpose of your mystery screw then my
advice differ from his! This screw is important unless you want your
tail stock to crash to the floor and break the handwheel and bend the
screw. It is too easy to run the saddle back or push the tailstock
back to get more working space only to end in an oops! I haven't done
it myself simply because the stop screw is in place.
If your lathe doesn't have a way of preventing the tailstock
inadvertently sliding off the bed then I recommend you use the spare
screw for that purpose, it can be your first customisation.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

I think that screw is supposed to stop the tailstock sliding. Not a

lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside.

A

rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:
Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up.

I decided

to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and

tailstock

for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just
used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a
little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find
some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got

after

it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the

under

side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the

very

end.

Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It
seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for

the

screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the
compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have
removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more

with

that later.

I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up.
I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip

rings

and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut.

Any

one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?

One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to

looking

closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check
balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout

I

need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans

for

those?

Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose

screw

rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process,

the

only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw

is

at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the

TS.

However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it

was

installed or not.

Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is
supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not
have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes

underneath

it.

Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and

for

the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.

Rance






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Another source, if you have access to the newsgroups, is:

alt.binaries.e-book.technical

These military manuals show up frequently along with a lot of info
that may or may not be of any use. 'Course, there's a ton of spam to
weed through as well, but where do you really get away from THAT?

Just make sure you've got some space on your hard drive, you'll
probably grab more than you might expect!

Bill

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer"
<ckinzer@...> wrote:

I happened to see this on ebay when looking for something else. (I

have no connection with this item). The title says 7 manuals, but it
seems there are 8.

Pages_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26197QQitemZ130093099816QQrdZ1

The description says:

These high quality manuals have been moved to CD ROM
They are in PDF Format and can be viewed Adobe Software
If you don't have Adobe it is a free download from their site
Easy to move to your Hard Drive or Open to View
You can print these on your printer if you want a hard copy
These are NOT viewable on your TV style DVD Player
They are Recent Manuals not old or vintage

EIGHT US ARMY MACHINIST MANUALS ON CD ROM
Band Saw Operations
Lathe Operations
Machine Shop Calculations
Metal Properties, Characteristics, Uses and Codes
Milling Machine Operations
Precision Measuring and Gages
Principels of Drafting and Shop Drawing
Shop Safety

The pricing says:

$6.95 and $5.25 shipping if to U.S. or Canada, but they ship

worldwide

Chuck K.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Not to rain on anyone's parade, but there are a LOT of manuals online for free.













Charles E. Kinzer wrote:

I happened to see this on ebay when looking for something else. (I have no connection with this item). The title says 7 manuals, but it seems there are 8.



The description says:

These high quality manuals have been moved to CD ROM
They are in PDF Format and can be viewed Adobe Software
If you don't have Adobe it is a free download from their site
Easy to move to your Hard Drive or Open to View
You can print these on your printer if you want a hard copy
These are NOT viewable on your TV style DVD Player
They are Recent Manuals not old or vintage

EIGHT US ARMY MACHINIST MANUALS ON CD ROM
Band Saw Operations
Lathe Operations
Machine Shop Calculations
Metal Properties, Characteristics, Uses and Codes
Milling Machine Operations
Precision Measuring and Gages
Principels of Drafting and Shop Drawing
Shop Safety

The pricing says:

$6.95 and $5.25 shipping if to U.S. or Canada, but they ship worldwide

Chuck K.

John
I had the pleasure of building a Tangential cutter based on the
description on your web site. While it's not much for working in
brass, I find it winds up mounted on my QCTP far more often than any
cutting tool in my collection. I really love using it for turning and
facing steel, aluminum and even the odd bit of stainless. It still
amazes me at just how agressively it will cut when everything is nice
and sharp, yet it will do the finest of cuts with ease.

It's not all that difficult of a project and the results are quite
rewarding. After several months trial use, it's definitely a tool I'd
miss now that I've owned one.

I've "duplicated" a couple of the other tools shown on your site and
each added to the fun of operating my lathe, especially the tool post
mounted ball turning tool.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Check Frank Ford's site for how he adapted a similar large toolholder
to fit his QCTP:

Frank has lots of interesting ideas so his site is well worth checking
out.

The toolholder in the blurry picture looks like it is made for facing
while the shank is mounted perpendicular to the spindle axis (the
normal position).

My tangential for the QCTP is similar in some ways since it can turn
or face without changing position on the toolpost - depending on the
shape of the bit, the blurry holder might be able to do the same. The
difference would be the simplicity of making a jig to sharpen the
tangential.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@>
wrote:

Yeah, that 90 degree turn is a bit of a mystery alright.

It may not be out of the hands of the home shop machinist to build
his/her own tool holders. A short while back there was a discussion
about tangential tool holder, which for all purposes on our 7x's can
use 1/8" tool bits, and gadgetbuilder (where are ya' dude!...help me
out here...) has built a piece that sure inspires me. Before I can
make one, however, I am going to have to wait until I get myself a

mill...

Mark
==========

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer"
<ckinzer@> wrote:

Did some minor searching and ETCO is Engineering Tooling Corp.,

"Quality Tools and Inserts for Swiss Style CNC Screw Machines"

A couple of the tool holders shown on their home page seem to hold

these inserts, just not at the 90 degree angle of the one on ebay.

The screw machine world is a bit of mystery to me. I suspect they

buy the "micro inserts" ready ground, and being small, they are

cheaper.

I suspect it would be too much of a project to make a similar tool

holder for the home shop and use small HSS tool bits.

Chuck K.

----- Original Message -----
From: markzemanek
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 2:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Anybody know what this is?


Howdy gang:

I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.

The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet

nomral type

tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems

more

interested in terms of payment.

Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?



Thanks, Mark

I have seen a few sites, guys cutting and adding a bed extention. I
can't find my bookmarks right now, I'll keep looking. I think I would
upgrade to a 8X or 9X if I needed a longer bed than 14 inches.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "thornappleboots"
<thornappleboots@...> wrote:

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.

Vikki
Here is some more tail stock info.

This can be a bit mind boggling at the start, just keep reading and
learning. Mr Kruger's pages help me a LOT. My TS is repeatable to
.0003 after 8-10 hours of work (head scratching).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "thornappleboots"
<thornappleboots@...> wrote:

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.

Have a look here:


It shouldn't be too different for the x14 than the x12 or x10.

I think that screw is supposed to stop the tailstock sliding. Not a lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside.
A

rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:
Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided
to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock
for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just
used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a
little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find
some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after
it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under
side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very
end.

Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It
seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the
screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the
compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have
removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with
that later.

I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up.
I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings
and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any
one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?

One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking
closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check
balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I
need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for
those?

Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw
rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the
only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is
at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS.
However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was
installed or not.

Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is
supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not
have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath
it.

Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for
the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.

Rance






---------------------------------
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Vikki wrote.....Got an idea and tried it out and it seems to work pretty well. Not sure it would stand up to serious hogging, but worked out well turning down a about a 1/2" square stick to a dowel :)......

A great idea. Very similar to the 'safe' driving centres available. If enough pressure is applied with a rolling centre in the tailstock, should cover most turning needs and if anything catches, it just allows the material to stop before any serious damage is done.
HTH
Ellis

Hi Ian,

Yep, what Vikki said - pictures!

Actually, I keep promising myself to rig up a little travelling chip
tray. I thought your lathe came with skirts & wipers or is that my
memory playing tricks?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>

wrote:

G'day all.
Had a few minutes to spare this morning and I had to get out of

the

house to clear my head. No! not a hangover.
[ ... ]
The pan is 70mm long and 120mm wide plus a 10mm fold up at the

front,

20mm fold down at the rear and a 20mm fold up at the front. I

the cut

5mm oversize front an

PICTURES PLEASE! PICTURES PLEASE! :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Claggett" <790racer@...>
wrote:

Have you seen this?

A friend has one, he is happy doing basic work, but he said it can
only handle small cuts or he has a chatter problem.

Yep and the base price for it is about half that for a Micro-Mill on
sale. Micro-Mill is FAR more useful IMO.

I did think about this for awhile, but bit the bullet and got the
uMill instead and think I have a lot more capability with it over the
milling attachment.

YMMV :-).

Take care, Vikki.

Hi Folks,

Got an idea and tried it out and it seems to work pretty well. Not
sure it would stand up to serious hogging, but worked out well turning
down a about a 1/2" square stick to a dowel :).

Took very little time to make. Can probably be improved but until I
see a need for it...



Hope it helps someone.

Take care, Vikki.

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.