Re: Anybody know what this is?
Did some minor searching and ETCO is Engineering Tooling Corp., "Quality Tools and Inserts for Swiss Style CNC Screw Machines"
A couple of the tool holders shown on their home page seem to hold these inserts, just not at the 90 degree angle of the one on ebay.
The screw machine world is a bit of mystery to me. I suspect they buy the "micro inserts" ready ground, and being small, they are cheaper.
I suspect it would be too much of a project to make a similar tool holder for the home shop and use small HSS tool bits.
Chuck K.
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----- Original Message -----
From: markzemanek
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 2:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Anybody know what this is?
Howdy gang:
I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.
The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet nomral type
tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems more
interested in terms of payment.
Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?
Thanks, Mark
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Re: [SPAM] Anybody know what this is?
This is a tool holder and not a tool post. It would mount in a tool post.
It looks to me like it simply holds very small HSS tool bits, but in a way that gives them lots of support and contact. This would beef up the rigiditiy and would also helps with heat dissipation. So it would substantially let small tool bits act as if they were larger than they are.
I suspect the advantage is that you can grind a small tool bit a lot faster than a large one. And since only a small part of even a large tool bit typically contacts the workpiece, you aren't really giving up anything in most cases.
Chuck K.
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----- Original Message -----
From: markzemanek
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 2:12 PM
Subject: [SPAM] [7x12minilathe] Anybody know what this is?
Howdy gang:
I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.
The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet nomral type
tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems more
interested in terms of payment.
Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?
Thanks, Mark
|
Re: Anybody know what this is?
Nope, but I don't believe I'd buy from this ebayer. Must have had a nervous breakdown in Feb of this year. History can be seen at tinyurl.com/3884pk . You can use toolhaus.org to check neutral/neg. fb for ebayers. Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@...> wrote:
Howdy gang:
I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.
The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet nomral type
tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems more
interested in terms of payment.
Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?
Thanks, Mark
|
Anybody know what this is?
Howdy gang:
I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.
The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet nomral type
tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems more
interested in terms of payment.
Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?
Thanks, Mark
|
Indexable bit holder for cummins mini lathe
I just got my cumming 7x12 mini lathe, it came with 5 crappy 5/16"
bits. They seemed to contact the work are a bit low, and needed to be
shimmed UP.
I like the idea of being able to use the indexable bits (3 sided)
what size shank should I be looking to get?
1/4 " ? 3/8"?
Thanks guys.
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Marvel Mystery Oil & lathes
I really don't wish to start ANOTHER oil thread. I followed some of the
recent ones (which were good) and gleened some good information from
them.
Just one simple question. Does M.M.O. have any place in the lathe
workshop? Thanks.
Rance
|
And that fractured English is a word for word copy of the Weiss website which Robin found. Weiss, Warco and Chester look identical in their respective photos. The only difference seems to be in the motor wattage: 700W at Chester, 550W at Warco, and less than either at Weiss. Unlike Warco, Chester don't mention imperial/metric leadscrew options.
Ellis Cory Robin wrote........The Chester rep said that it wasn't sourced from the same manufacturer as the warco lathe..........
No. not with this translation ' Casting iron change gears get greater capacity'
LOL
Ellis
---------------------------------
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Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... Now milling attachment
hi Richard,
For that sort of money, you can buy this:
mind you, it'd take up quite a bit more space than a micro- or even a mini-mill.
You should be able to get a milling attachment for the mini-lathe - ?68 is the best price that I've seen, Sieg brand, too.
Hugh
(London UK)
Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@...> wrote:
Hi, I too have a Seig 7x12 and have been wondering about milling too,
The smaller lathe has a milling attachment one can buy - but it won't fit
the 7x12 (I believe). Does anyone know of one that will fit? I do have a DVD
from Chronos UK that shows a Taig/Peatol attachment (with a few minor mods)
being able to fit the 7x10/12. Has anyone any experience of doing this? If
so, what's the max capacity for milling?
I'm sure many will say - buy the Seig X-1/2/3 but Taig/Peatol also do a
standalone milling machine for approx ?550 (UK Pounds). Is this better than
the equivalent mill from Seig?
Thanks
Richard (UK)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Micromill vs Minimill .... Now milling attachment
Hi, I too have a Seig 7x12 and have been wondering about milling too,
The smaller lathe has a milling attachment one can buy - but it won't fit
the 7x12 (I believe). Does anyone know of one that will fit? I do have a DVD
from Chronos UK that shows a Taig/Peatol attachment (with a few minor mods)
being able to fit the 7x10/12. Has anyone any experience of doing this? If
so, what's the max capacity for milling?
I'm sure many will say - buy the Seig X-1/2/3 but Taig/Peatol also do a
standalone milling machine for approx ?550 (UK Pounds). Is this better than
the equivalent mill from Seig?
Thanks
Richard (UK)
|
Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
Leveling is the normal way (pun) that larger lathes are set up but the
minilathe is relatively stiffer due to its small size. Although the
castings aren't "aged", they are generally ground accurately so there
isn't any twist in the typical minilathe. Unless it is firmly bolted
down -- this can induce a twist, especially if bolted to something
that changes with humidity (wood) or temperature (metal) at a rate
different from the lathe bed itself. The simple rubber feet work well
because the lathe is light enough so it doesn't twist under its own
weight (as large machines may). (Hardinge made a large "portable"
lathe with wheels that was quite accurate so there is some precedence
for lathes not being bolted down.)
More commonly, tapers occurring in work held in the chuck (not between
centers) arise from poor alignment between the spindle and the ways.
This can be corrected by the owner with simple techniques but takes
several hours: Once
aligned the machine seems to remain aligned so this is a one-time
effort, i.e. the castings don't seem to "age" and twist.
John
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed Boysun" <boysungran@...> wrote:
Guys that should know, tell me that a lathe bed has almost no resistance
to twist. You need to beg, borrow, or steal a machinist's precision
level and check the bed, both at the headstock and near the tailstock to
make sure that the level reads exactly the same in both places. If your
bench is solid, you may need to add shims beneath the legs on the lathe,
then clamp it back to the bench. If your table is not completely rigid,
you can adjust the feet of the table to impart some twist to the table,
and thus to the lathe bed. It surprised me; just how much a small shim
will de-twist the bed. A twisted bed will exhibit exactly the symptoms
you describe.
Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@> wrote:
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is (horrors)
that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Re: Just got the cummins 7x12 need help with tooling
Some more ideas on grinding bits here: Rather than adjusting the angle of the grinder guide I used little wooden wedges marked with the angle and left the grinder guide horizontal. Recently I built the simple grinding jig from "Screwcutting in the Lathe". This jig sharpens threading bits quickly and accurately. In addition, by angling things properly via the 2 degrees of freedom provided, many other types of lathe tools can be ground accurately without the "facets" I generally wound up with. It does need a larger than normal guide table on the grinder, see: John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:
I had the exact same results as you using that cheapie carbide set.
I'm new to the lathe, so I'm far from an expert, but from my limited
experience and everything I've read, the others are on the right
track. You can buy a bench grinder from a company like Homier or
Cummins for as little as $15, and it will do the job just fine.
Varmint Al has examples of ground bits that you can follow at
(). Don't stress
out about getting it just right. It's a forgiving process. If the
angles are even close to those in the picture, you'll be just fine.
Don't worry if you don't have a diamond hone. I haven't honed my bits
& I've been getting great results. I have no doubt that when I get
around to buying a hone, the results will get even better, but for
now, I'm perfectly happy.
One more big advantage of learning to grind bits is when you need a
custom profile. Want a curved transition between surfaces? just carve
a bit in the appropriate shape. You probably won't be able to find a
premade bit with just the right profile...
On 3/23/07, harleyknall <knall@...> wrote:
It came with 5 bits.... I am unsure what each one is for.... But
I am sure I destroyed 2 of em learning to use the lathe on some scrap.
Ruined 1 by running the lathe in reverse....ruined the other
having it set to low in relation to the tailstock hight.
ANYWHO...... I think I know how to operate the thing now.
I need to get a "parting tool" a tool to thread with, and a "turning
tool"
Where to get ? what size to get? what style to get? as I
mentioned i have 5 difrant bits in front of me and I am oblivious
as to which is for what operation. Should the tool be mounted 90
degrees to the workpiece for all these operations?
Thanks guys, I got enough of a "feel" for the machine tonight
that I know it is MORE than enough machine for the task I need to complete.
Just need to know what bits to use for what operation, the bits I have
seen MOSTLY come labeled with stock #'s not USES labeled on em.
Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
I have read that some folks have had a twist problem. Both my 10 and
14 in beds checked out good. I also use a piece of 24X6X3/8 steel
plate to mount the bed to, with the wide feet under that. Help cut
down on chatter when parting.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed Boysun" <boysungran@...> wrote:
Guys that should know, tell me that a lathe bed has almost no resistance
to twist. You need to beg, borrow, or steal a machinist's precision
level and check the bed, both at the headstock and near the tailstock to
make sure that the level reads exactly the same in both places. If your
bench is solid, you may need to add shims beneath the legs on the lathe,
then clamp it back to the bench. If your table is not completely rigid,
you can adjust the feet of the table to impart some twist to the table,
and thus to the lathe bed. It surprised me; just how much a small shim
will de-twist the bed. A twisted bed will exhibit exactly the symptoms
you describe.
Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@> wrote:
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is (horrors)
that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Re: Just got the cummins 7x12 need help with tooling
This should help
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "harleyknall" <knall@...> wrote:
It came with 5 bits.... I am unsure what each one is for.... But
I am sure I destroyed 2 of em learning to use the lathe on some scrap.
Ruined 1 by running the lathe in reverse....ruined the other
having it set to low in relation to the tailstock hight.
ANYWHO...... I think I know how to operate the thing now.
I need to get a "parting tool" a tool to thread with, and a "turning
tool"
Where to get ? what size to get? what style to get? as I
mentioned i have 5 difrant bits in front of me and I am oblivious as to
which is for what operation. Should the tool be mounted 90 degrees to
the workpiece for all these operations?
Thanks guys, I got enough of a "feel" for the machine tonight that I
know it is MORE than enough machine for the task I need to complete.
Just need to know what bits to use for what operation, the bits I have
seen MOSTLY come labeled with stock #'s not USES labeled on em.
|
Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
Guys that should know, tell me that a lathe bed has almost no resistance
to twist. You need to beg, borrow, or steal a machinist's precision
level and check the bed, both at the headstock and near the tailstock to
make sure that the level reads exactly the same in both places. If your
bench is solid, you may need to add shims beneath the legs on the lathe,
then clamp it back to the bench. If your table is not completely rigid,
you can adjust the feet of the table to impart some twist to the table,
and thus to the lathe bed. It surprised me; just how much a small shim
will de-twist the bed. A twisted bed will exhibit exactly the symptoms
you describe.
Ed B
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is (horrors)
that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
You well more than likely find the TS off set a bit. If your using a
three jaw chuck you have some run out at that end also. The best
either of my tree jaw chucks well do is .0015-.002. With a four jaw,
or collets, you can get dead on.
Some good info here
and gadgetbuilder is great also.
I spent the first two months I owned my 7X working on it to improve
accuracy. This is the first mod I did
followed by tapered gibs. I ended up putting a 14in bed on it. I
happy with the results. I still want to add bearing to the saddle
hand wheel and gears, a hand crank on the lead screw and headstock.
Here is more eye and head candy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is (horrors)
that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
Go read this, This should get you in the right direction. RC --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is
(horrors) that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Robin wrote........The Chester rep said that it wasn't sourced from the same manufacturer as the warco lathe..........
No. not with this translation ' Casting iron change gears get greater capacity'
LOL
Ellis
|
Re: Just got the cummins 7x12 need help with tooling
I have the same setup and am thoroughly enjoying my new toys. What I did not
realize when getting into this new hobby is that the tooling needed quickly
exceeds the cost of the lathe and mill, e.g. vice, bits, four jaw chuck, taps
and dies, etc. Anyone else thinking of getting into a mini-machine shop
should keep this in mind. I've almost finished my first project, a PM Research 3
engine,.
Gerry
*** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at .
|
Taper - I think I have a problem?!
Hi Folks,
If I can poll the collective wisdom on this I'd appreciate it.
I'm not sure I have a problem, but I think so.
Turning down a rod I get a 0.015" difference over 5.5", please see:
I would guess that would turn into 0.030" over 11"?
If I turn a cone in the chuck and pull up the tailstock, they appear
to match up as near as I can tell.
My failed laser edge finder drew a circle around the the tailstock
center that looked centered to me.
I get this just turning a reasonably robust rod just clamped in the
chuck too (measurable difference between ends, forget what the value
is now).
I'm really lost on this, only thing I can think of (SWAG) is (horrors)
that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!???
I'm really out of ideas, am I expecting too much of the 7x12?
Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe
Hi Roy, Thanks for the response! --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
Those little ones are primarily intended for "chip carving" not lathe
use. The bigger ones look like a generic carving set, not a lathe
set. Still, for small work, anything you can make work is a suitable
tool. The size of the machine makes pen turning tools about the
right general size, here's what they look like:
No particular connection except as a satisfied customer of theirs for
the last 30 yrs:-)
I've pretty much written off both those sets as an "educational" expense" :-). Not completely useless, but not what I was looking for. I really appreciate the pointers! Found what appears to be the same set for about $10 less at: There is another set there that has a few more, one in particular that looks like it might do for small projects as well as pen turning too(?): That one is actually cheaper, not that I am willing to be penny foolish again :-). I found the pen kits today and tracked them down (to the site with the chisels). Found a walnut piece today that might work for it, should be interesting :-) to try to make one. I really hate to pull the chuck off for this so I can use the wood center since I am not going to doing a lot of wood stuff. Perhaps I can make one that will fit in the chuck?!? That one is too big for pen blanks and was actually too big for the honey spoon too (cone engaged, teeth don't). Thought about cutting the taper off the wood center that came from LMS so it might fit in the chuck, but I just don't know if that would work and I'd hate to ruin it :-/. Since it seems to be too big for anything I'm doing, it is probably a moot point. Yet another exciting adventure on the way :-) :-) :-)! Thanks & take care, Vikki.
|
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