开云体育

I just couldn't understand why anyone would go out of their way
(poor pun) to use hardened strips and see it as an improvement
rather than a potential risk.

John

Hi John:

I liked the pun :)

Here's my personal thought on the "why". 1.) The three cap screws that hold the gib opposed to the two dog points can provide zero preload to the fasteners, thus they are at will to move, won't hold adjustment. This is easy enough to take care of with a bit of blue Loctite. 2) The two dog points are not equidistant between cap screws, thus, even with the most meticulous setting the gib is bent to an arc if ever so slight in the best of cases and flat bowed silly in the worst of it. This means that only the leading and trailing edges are in contact with the ways underside, and only the outside "points" of that. This makes unit force over area high enough to, a) pierce the oil film b.) scrap the oil from the way. This is a bit more difficult to fix. Replacement of the dog points with shims is an alternative however the material the gib is made of is so soft that in my first attempt at it with the half hard 260 brass I used dented the gib as easily as a finger nail dents pine boards. I had cut the brass into two pieces, one each side of the center cap screw as the fine adjustment needed here precluded, for me, individually making holes for all shims in the pack required. This leads to misalignment by the depth of the dent. Later when I lapped the stock gibs it took nearly .004" after local contact to remove said dents. 3.) Even when a full shim is in play the material is so soft that it flexes silly under moderate pressures. 4.) When I lapped the gibs I took .008 of this little critters, after straightening, to get full contact with the lapping plate, wavy, bent, bowed, dented...junk. 5.) If your going to fix it, then, fix it. 5.) Made from some hardened material, such as A2, makes it stiff enough to loose the center cap, use a shim without perforation where extremely fine adjustment can be made. 6) Because my Southbend uses a gib 10" long held with two cap screws, is .375" thick and is hardened, ribbed iron and doesn't flex or bow over the cantilever. So it's not a poke in the dark. 7.) On my machine built 5/26/1956 shows zilch for wear after 50 years. 8) I'll copy a proven design and would down to the cantilever if I had enough room :) 9.) Because hard steel on iron has 23% less friction than iron on brass. And hard chromed (what mine spec to) has half the static friction of iron on iron and will not gall. In fact hard chrome on iron has about half the frictional coefficient dry as brass on iron does lubricated.

Just thoughts.

Marty

For the 7x lathes the cheapest is the Homier ($299) but it comes with no tooling.
Next is the Cummins for $399 with a good accessory package

The Harbor freight is actually 2" shorter than the others and more expensive so stay away if possible.

For parts and accessories - www.littlemachineshop.com (great service)

Aaron

G'day Marty,John, Gianni et al.
To extrapolate what Marty is saying suggests a lathe should never
wear out. Unfortunately that is not the case.
The contaminants have to be factored into the discussion. Small swarf
and dust particles will act as abrasives and will selectively attach
the softer material; in Gianni's proposal the cast iron bed.
Journal type bearings have a hard metal shaft running in a soft
bearng shell. The soft metal, Babbit, has the capacity to envelop the
abrasive particles without their abrading the shaft. To use Mary's
analogy the big end bearings, etc have a babbit coated shell. Older
lathes have white metal bearings in the headstock, even some recent
precision lathes.
The world's biggest bearings operate on this principle.
To extrapolate my argument we would be better off using brass gibs
with a babbit coating. (Some Old Timer may recall just such an
application.) Come to think of it, I recall that steam loco cross
head slippers are white metalled (coated with babbit).
Not having any bronze I have made some brass bearing bushes which I
have tinned (97% tin solder), these seem to work well.

For me I would find something better to do with HSS than make gibs
out of it.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards to all,
Ian


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Yep, you may well be correct - it may be a non-issue. Then again,
without a pretty good reason, I personally wouldn't do it just to
find out.


John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:

Gianni wrote:

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats

I

brought in a surplus shop

John replies:

Flat for those strips is good. I'm not so sure about hard. That

will ensure the eventual wear will be born by the ways rather than
the gib strips. I know which I'd rather maintain or replace. :-)

Marcello replies:

I would not use HSS cobalt flats to make saddle gibs: I fear that

would mean all the wear will be on the saddle.

Marty replies:

Hang out for awhile. This starts like it's going nowhere in

particular.

You have a motor with 100,000 miles on it and the rings go south.

You pull the head and measure the cylinder ridge and find you
have .005" wear. By extrapolation we could say that .0005" happens
every 10,000 miles.

So here are the questions. Why do we think that tool steel, flat,

smooth gibs will accelerate wear of the iron bed? Even if it did

and

did so at the same rate per distance traveled, how long would you
have to run a lathe to produce 42 million passes over the bed of at
least 3.5" distance per pass?

IF your thinking that there is no correlation between the

examples

list...you may be right...the lathe has 60 fold greater viscosity,
runs 530 degrees cooler and does so at something less than 2% of

the

unit loading. Edge goes to the lathe.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

All the ones currently being sold in the US are made by the same
place, SEIG. The listing on mini-lathe.com should help you decide
which vendor gives you the best value.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "film2paper" <film2paper@...>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@>
wrote:

Hi,

All of the lathes here are "imported" machines. The only thing

HF sells that isn't imported is time. You can find a nice used

Made

in America machine on eBay or local auctions, but it might take a

bit

of time and many are true "labors of love" - in the best sense of

the

phrase.

OK what size lathe or work do you plan on doing? Many are here

to

help!

Take care,
DBN



film2paper <film2paper@> wrote:
Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor

Freight lathes

really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and

slotting

some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's

time

to

get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines,

case

iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.






---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I plan to make some knurled knobs, an inch or less in dia. and some
lens mounting flanges not more than three inches. A 7x12 would be
large enough to cover what I plan to do. Which brand is better or

are

they all made in the same manufacturing plants. I live a hundred
miles from Grizzly Imports too, but only a couple of miles from a
harbor freight store.

It'd be kind of borderline. The drills are rated for up to Rc65;
cobalt tooling is around Rc67. They're also extremely easy to chip;
if you don't have a pretty rigid setup they'll self destruct.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@...>
wrote:

Gianni,
Why don't you use a spade drill bit or a 2 flute drill that is ment
for hard metals?



If that does not come thru use

and go to page 22 of the main catalog.

You are looking for a 2 flute drill. I have never used the spade

bit

or 2 flute drill, but that is what they are for.
I am sure that there are suppliers where you live.

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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3

Carbide Depot's site has a pretty good section on decoding the insert
nomenclature. They frequently have some good deals on "surplus"
tooling. Not affiliated, just a satisfied customer.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55"
<clypeaster55@...> wrote:

I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20
design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In

gathering

the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for

or

order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses

a "TNMG"?

insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't
specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled

holder,

since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making

my

own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for

me,

that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would

be

good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and

the

occaisional SS).

So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations

mean

and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and
nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them?
After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the

only "T"

codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything

but

the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though!

Any advice is MUCH appreciated.

I think you're making things needlessly complicated. The existing
slide plates work fine if they're mounted/adjusted with shims rather
than the jackscrews that work well on larger machines.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Charlie,



thanks for the infos.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I

brought

in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid

bending

under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary

reason

that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs

are

really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of

saddle

motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before

mounting.

_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per

conto di Charkie Walklin Sr
Inviato: lunedì 5 marzo 2007 21.23
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: Re: R: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank





steam4ian <fosterscons@ <mailto:fosterscons%40ozemail.com.au>
ozemail.com.au> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, "born4something"

<ajs@>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too

fussy,

they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate

it

by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other

than

what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid

carbide

single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you

choose to

do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just

make sure

that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go

slow with

the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight

but they

hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past

(retired tool

and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie



_,_._,___






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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi,

All of the lathes here are "imported" machines. The only thing

HF sells that isn't imported is time. You can find a nice used Made
in America machine on eBay or local auctions, but it might take a bit
of time and many are true "labors of love" - in the best sense of the
phrase.

OK what size lathe or work do you plan on doing? Many are here to

help!

Take care,
DBN



film2paper <film2paper@...> wrote:
Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor

Freight lathes

really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and

slotting

some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's time

to

get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines, case
iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.






---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I plan to make some knurled knobs, an inch or less in dia. and some
lens mounting flanges not more than three inches. A 7x12 would be
large enough to cover what I plan to do. Which brand is better or are
they all made in the same manufacturing plants. I live a hundred
miles from Grizzly Imports too, but only a couple of miles from a
harbor freight store.

Hi Marty,

Yep, you may well be correct - it may be a non-issue. Then again,
without a pretty good reason, I personally wouldn't do it just to
find out.

There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only load
bearing on that surface is when the carriage tries to lift - usually
while using a milling adapter with the carriage stationary. Gravity
works the other way. Some have replaced those strips with brass and
not griped of wear.

I just couldn't understand why anyone would go out of their way
(poor pun) to use hardened strips and see it as an improvement
rather than a potential risk.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Gianni wrote:

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I

brought in a surplus shop

John replies:

Flat for those strips is good. I'm not so sure about hard. That

will ensure the eventual wear will be born by the ways rather than
the gib strips. I know which I'd rather maintain or replace. :-)

Marcello replies:

I would not use HSS cobalt flats to make saddle gibs: I fear that

would mean all the wear will be on the saddle.

Marty replies:

Hang out for awhile. This starts like it's going nowhere in

particular.

You have a motor with 100,000 miles on it and the rings go south.

You pull the head and measure the cylinder ridge and find you
have .005" wear. By extrapolation we could say that .0005" happens
every 10,000 miles.

The motor has a 3.5" stroke and is geared to run 60 mph at about

2100 rpm. To run 10,000 miles at this pace it will take 166.7 hours
or 10,000 minutes in which time the motor will make 21 million
revolutions and visiting the cylinder twice per revolution, once up
and once down per revolution thus makes 42 million passes over that
cylinder wall.

The cylinder wall is gray cast iron, at about 200 Brinel hardness

or about the same as an Asian lathe bed. The piston ring is ductile
iron with a hard chrome face at about 800 Brinel (Rockwell 70 C) or
about 10 Rockwell C units harder than tool steel.

The highest wear is at the point of reversal where velocity is

zero. The top of the cylinder taking the brunt of the force as
pressures are in the range of 750 to 1200 PSI and temperatures at
the contact surface near 600 F. At this temperature an average 30W
oil has an apparent viscosity of about 2.5 centipoises or roughly
2.5 X more viscous than water. Lubrication is in the boundary layer
state, just as it is on a lathe way.

In boundary layer lubrication the surfaces may make asperity

contact IF the finishes of the surfaces stand proud of the films
thickness (too rough) OR if the film thickness or it's strength is
insufficient to support the load asked of the assembly, e.g. lack of
proper viscosity.

ISO 68 Way oil at room temperature is about 60 times more viscous

than motor oil (2.5 cP verses 150 cP) of the same class at the
temperatures about the rings. Both finished with 320 abrasive will
exhibit nearly identical Ra.

So here are the questions. Why do we think that tool steel, flat,

smooth gibs will accelerate wear of the iron bed? Even if it did and
did so at the same rate per distance traveled, how long would you
have to run a lathe to produce 42 million passes over the bed of at
least 3.5" distance per pass?

IF your thinking that there is no correlation between the examples

list...you may be right...the lathe has 60 fold greater viscosity,
runs 530 degrees cooler and does so at something less than 2% of the
unit loading. Edge goes to the lathe.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi John,

You raise a good point - I read his feedback comments.

800WATT is sometimes slow on shipment and most now expect rapid delivery unless otherwise notified. My suspicion is that he sells items in anticipation of receiving a shipment and/or places orders after selling. Not on everything, but there is a delivery issue here.

My experience (about 18 months and many items) is 100% success - sometimes it took 4-5 weeks but the goods arrived and were as described. As for communications - well, 800WATT scores a Strong Negative on this point and it is likely the reason for the poor ratings. He also was very reluctant to leave postive scores, i.e., he only responded to negative ones. He seems to have changed his approach of late but it will take a very long time to improve the rankings!

So, I will continue to buy from 800WATT e.g. I just bought 2x 6" digital calipers, but I am aware of his foibles.

Hmmm...maybe he worked for Harbor Freight at one time?

Take care,
DBN



John Swam <johnswam@...> wrote:
be very careful dealing with 800watt, I never got my items and he would never answer my emails . Some people have been able to deal with him but many got stuck. good luck, john

Excellent link Chuck. On my desktop. Thanks

Marty

Gianni wrote:

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I brought in a surplus shop

John replies:

Flat for those strips is good. I'm not so sure about hard. That will ensure the eventual wear will be born by the ways rather than the gib strips. I know which I'd rather maintain or replace. :-)

Marcello replies:

I would not use HSS cobalt flats to make saddle gibs: I fear that would mean all the wear will be on the saddle.

Marty replies:

Hang out for awhile. This starts like it's going nowhere in particular.

You have a motor with 100,000 miles on it and the rings go south. You pull the head and measure the cylinder ridge and find you have .005" wear. By extrapolation we could say that .0005" happens every 10,000 miles.

The motor has a 3.5" stroke and is geared to run 60 mph at about 2100 rpm. To run 10,000 miles at this pace it will take 166.7 hours or 10,000 minutes in which time the motor will make 21 million revolutions and visiting the cylinder twice per revolution, once up and once down per revolution thus makes 42 million passes over that cylinder wall.

The cylinder wall is gray cast iron, at about 200 Brinel hardness or about the same as an Asian lathe bed. The piston ring is ductile iron with a hard chrome face at about 800 Brinel (Rockwell 70 C) or about 10 Rockwell C units harder than tool steel.

The highest wear is at the point of reversal where velocity is zero. The top of the cylinder taking the brunt of the force as pressures are in the range of 750 to 1200 PSI and temperatures at the contact surface near 600 F. At this temperature an average 30W oil has an apparent viscosity of about 2.5 centipoises or roughly 2.5 X more viscous than water. Lubrication is in the boundary layer state, just as it is on a lathe way.

In boundary layer lubrication the surfaces may make asperity contact IF the finishes of the surfaces stand proud of the films thickness (too rough) OR if the film thickness or it's strength is insufficient to support the load asked of the assembly, e.g. lack of proper viscosity.

ISO 68 Way oil at room temperature is about 60 times more viscous than motor oil (2.5 cP verses 150 cP) of the same class at the temperatures about the rings. Both finished with 320 abrasive will exhibit nearly identical Ra.

So here are the questions. Why do we think that tool steel, flat, smooth gibs will accelerate wear of the iron bed? Even if it did and did so at the same rate per distance traveled, how long would you have to run a lathe to produce 42 million passes over the bed of at least 3.5" distance per pass?

IF your thinking that there is no correlation between the examples list...you may be right...the lathe has 60 fold greater viscosity, runs 530 degrees cooler and does so at something less than 2% of the unit loading. Edge goes to the lathe.

be very careful dealing with 800watt, I never got my items and he would never answer my emails . Some people have been able to deal with him but many got stuck. good luck, john

Thanks,

Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists as US
only. :-(

Maybe I'll politely ask.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings. For

example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good prices -
watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score
due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on
delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all worked
out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia and
it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@...> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably for

DRO

mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;

1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=
&pr&#92;

iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;

81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber
=&p&#92;

riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+

$11.77

Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie

dollars

which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12 in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is

all I

have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If someone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few people

were

closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off list

if

you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a trade
customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2

weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Deary me,

TGIF comes in many sizes. Sometimes the weekend can be HUGE. You
must lead a very sedentary life! <G>

When it comes to carbide inserts, the letters follow a code. I'm
sure it's detailed in Machinery's Handbook. I'll hunt it out and
send you an extract direct. I know the first letter gives the basic
shape - T is triangular. What's that say about the weekend?

Don't know where to get those wee little screws - or matching taps.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "clypeaster55"
<clypeaster55@...> wrote:

I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20
design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In

gathering

the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask

for or

order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses

a "TNMG"?

insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't
specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled

holder,

since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with

(making my

own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple

(for me,

that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would

be

good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass,

and the

occaisional SS).

So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations

mean

and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and
nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them?
After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the

only "T"

codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything

but

the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though!

Any advice is MUCH appreciated.

Hi, I'm seeking a secondhand Taig/Peatol Lathe. It must be in vgc. I'm
in England. Please contact me if you have anything available. Thanks.
Best Regards,
Brian.

Gianni,
Why don't you use a spade drill bit or a 2 flute drill that is ment
for hard metals?



If that does not come thru use

and go to page 22 of the main catalog.

You are looking for a 2 flute drill. I have never used the spade bit
or 2 flute drill, but that is what they are for.
I am sure that there are suppliers where you live.

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




--
Email.it, the professional e-mail, gratis per te:

Sponsor:
Refill srl dal 1993, il compatibile per stampante di qualità. 5000

prodotti in pronta consegna, consegna in 24h, assistenza telefonica
da tecnici specializzati

Clicca qui:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's a place with an 83 page document on these things. Describes
shapes, rakes, whether or not a hole is in it, presence of chip
breakers, and probably more than you want to know! Typical catalogs
we might use (Enco, et. al.) will only have a subset of these. And of
that subset, an individual home machinists may only buy a few types,
or even one type.



Chuck K.

Quoting clypeaster55 <clypeaster55@...>:

I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20
design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In gathering
the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for or
order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses a "TNMG"?
insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't
specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled holder,
since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making my
own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for me,
that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would be
good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and the
occaisional SS).

So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations mean
and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and
nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them?
After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the only "T"
codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything but
the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though!

Any advice is MUCH appreciated.

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings. For example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good prices - watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all worked out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia and it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@...> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably for DRO
mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
;
1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&pr&#92;
iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<;
81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&p&#92;
riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+ $11.77
Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie dollars
which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12 in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is all I
have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If someone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few people were
closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off list if
you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a trade
customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out.

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