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Date

Re: HF Lathes

 

Some of the purists will probably weigh in on the side of getting a
huge lathe, but I have found by 2 year old 7x10 Harbor Freight lathe
has been just what I needed. I have no complaints. I've enjoyed
learning how to use it and have made several tools and small parts for
my antique clock repair hobby.

I recommend, while you're making up your mind, you spend a lot of time
at

That site reviews the mini-lathes, shows in detail how to use them,
how to adjust them, modify and tune them, and has some nice lathe
projects.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "film2paper" <film2paper@...> wrote:

Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor Freight lathes
really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and slotting
some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's time to
get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines, case
iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.


Re: R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

MZT.Groups
 

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I brought
in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid bending
under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary reason
that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before mounting.
Hi Gianni,

why do you need "holes"? You need to make only some dimples for the set
screws, I think they could be ground with a dremel.
I would not use HSS cobalt flats to make saddle gibs: I fear that would mean
all the wear will be on the saddle.
I'm thinking about gluing a thin brass or else flat on the saddle side of
the gibs, to gain hss advantages getting rid of its drawbacks. I really
dunno whether it could work or not, just an idea.

Marcello

--
That "surplus shop" you were talking about.. is it anywhere near Turin?


R: R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Hi,

Flat for those strips is good. I'm not so sure about hard. That will
ensure the eventual wear will be born by the ways rather than the gib
strips. I know which I'd rather maintain or replace. :-)

I plan to shim mine and lap. For now I adjusted the Sieg ones per
www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm
<> . I found that
technique fiddly but not a drama. It only asks about one thou of
flexure. Having adjusted them beautifully at the tightest point I have
several thou play elsewhere. So I know the underside of the ways needs a
little lapping to get things uniform.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Charlie,



thanks for the infos.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I
brought
in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid
bending
under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary
reason
that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before
mounting.





_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di Charkie Walklin Sr
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 21.23
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: Re: R: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank





steam4ian <fosterscons@ <mailto:fosterscons%40ozemail.com.au>
ozemail.com.au> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"born4something"
ajs@
wrote:
G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid
carbide
single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you
choose to
do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make
sure
that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow
with
the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but
they
hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past
(retired tool
and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie



_,_._,___






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R: R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Charlie,



thanks for the infos.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I brought
in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid bending
under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary reason
that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before mounting.





_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di Charkie Walklin Sr
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 21.23
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: Re: R: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank





steam4ian <fosterscons@ <mailto:fosterscons%40ozemail.com.au>
ozemail.com.au> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, "born4something"
<ajs@...>
wrote:
G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid carbide
single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you choose to
do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make sure
that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow with
the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but they
hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past (retired tool
and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie



_,_._,___






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R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Hi Mike,

Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. But it's not as much fun as getting
into EDM! <G>

I actually figured a single HiRoc bit at $30 would be viable if all
you want at the end is a hole. But I like your idea. It even sounds
like a viable use for all that carbide & metal dust from around the
bench grinder! If it doesn't look promising in short time he's got a
couple of fallback options identified. Time to pick one and get away
from the keyboard...

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@...> wrote:

If all you need is ONE 1/4" deep hole in a piece of HSS, I would
try
something simpler. How about abrading the steel away as they
sometimes
do for glass? You build a wall of putty or something similar
around the
hole and fill it with an abrasive slurry, then you use a piece of
brass
tubing on a drill press as your bit. The tubing is softer than
the steel
but it gets charged with abrasive that does the actual cutting,
and every
time you raise and lower the tubing, it gets charged with fresh
abrasive.

Cutting a hole this way would take a long time, but not as long as
building an EDM machine....

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 12:26:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other
than
what I've read.

Essentially, the metal is removed by a repetitive electrical
discharge. Do a google search. In brief, there are a couple of
forms. A sinker technique which simply sinks a hole through -
can be

done with a shaped electrode for shaped holes. Then there's a
wire
technique which is more like an EDM variation of a bandsaw or
scroll

saw only with wire fed from a feed spool to a takeup spool via
the
job. Same principle though. Mostly these are expensive CNC
machines

and can do pretty exotic stuff. But I've seen DIY articles on
the
web if you want to have a play. Otherwise, look for a firm
offering

this service.

I suspect it's more suited to small quantities rather than mass
production. It doesn't do dozens of holes per minute. More like
dozens of minutes per hole! It has other neat uses too like
accurately eroding small broken taps. Hardness of the metal is a
non-
issue. Anyway, do a google and check for local services.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about ?" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ?
and

5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to
EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt
blanks?




Gianni




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Re: R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

Michael Taglieri
 

If all you need is ONE 1/4" deep hole in a piece of HSS, I would try
something simpler. How about abrading the steel away as they sometimes
do for glass? You build a wall of putty or something similar around the
hole and fill it with an abrasive slurry, then you use a piece of brass
tubing on a drill press as your bit. The tubing is softer than the steel
but it gets charged with abrasive that does the actual cutting, and every
time you raise and lower the tubing, it gets charged with fresh abrasive.

Cutting a hole this way would take a long time, but not as long as
building an EDM machine....

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 12:26:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

Essentially, the metal is removed by a repetitive electrical
discharge. Do a google search. In brief, there are a couple of
forms. A sinker technique which simply sinks a hole through - can be

done with a shaped electrode for shaped holes. Then there's a wire
technique which is more like an EDM variation of a bandsaw or scroll

saw only with wire fed from a feed spool to a takeup spool via the
job. Same principle though. Mostly these are expensive CNC machines

and can do pretty exotic stuff. But I've seen DIY articles on the
web if you want to have a play. Otherwise, look for a firm offering

this service.

I suspect it's more suited to small quantities rather than mass
production. It doesn't do dozens of holes per minute. More like
dozens of minutes per hole! It has other neat uses too like
accurately eroding small broken taps. Hardness of the metal is a
non-
issue. Anyway, do a google and check for local services.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about ???" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ??? and
5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned??? 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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--------------------------------------------------------------------~->


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mills and lathes.
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HF Lathes

film2paper
 

Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor Freight lathes
really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and slotting
some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's time to
get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines, case
iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank - EDM

 

Hi,

Model Engineering News described one at

<> .

I also have an 11-page PDF of a simple DIY EDM published in Model
Engineer over July-August 1976 (with improvements published in October
1981). I'm not sure where I acquired that PDF document but please
indicate if you're interested in a copy.

John

PS: In relation to the original question (yes, there was one), I suspect
the Hi-Roc drill is the pragmatic results-oriented answer. OTOH, if
you're using a real world need to rationalise some techno therapy, EDM
seems more exciting!



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
wrote:

My personal favorite is the folks who use (& break) a 1/4" EZ-out
trying to remove a frozen 1/2" bolt that broke.

I think it was HSM that had a multi-issue article about building an
EDM
rig. The project was so well done that they're offering the whole
article as a stand alone book. Some of the better quality carbide
rotary files can effectively remove the broken EZ-out without too much
trouble.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" paul.moir@ wrote:



From the bookmarks (Warning, 1.4 mb PDF):


Issue 60 (p. 75-) and 63 (p. 95-) have some good information on
do-it-yourself EDM. The circuit pictured in 63 is obviously an
electrocution hazard not to mention a serious fire hazard. So this
is
definitely in the "do not construct unless you really know what
you're
doing" category.
This is a great method to remove broken stainless bolts from
aluminum
parts, which is frequently a problem in marine engine repair. It is
just about the only method that works if some poor soul tries to use
an ez-out on the same.


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank - EDM

 

My personal favorite is the folks who use (& break) a 1/4" EZ-out
trying to remove a frozen 1/2" bolt that broke.

I think it was HSM that had a multi-issue article about building an EDM
rig. The project was so well done that they're offering the whole
article as a stand alone book. Some of the better quality carbide
rotary files can effectively remove the broken EZ-out without too much
trouble.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@...> wrote:



From the bookmarks (Warning, 1.4 mb PDF):


Issue 60 (p. 75-) and 63 (p. 95-) have some good information on
do-it-yourself EDM. The circuit pictured in 63 is obviously an
electrocution hazard not to mention a serious fire hazard. So this is
definitely in the "do not construct unless you really know what you're
doing" category.
This is a great method to remove broken stainless bolts from aluminum
parts, which is frequently a problem in marine engine repair. It is
just about the only method that works if some poor soul tries to use
an ez-out on the same.


Re: Homier "Speedway" 7"x12" Lathe.

 

You must have gotten their last one. I just checked their site and it
says out of stock, shipment expected 3/15/2007. Did you order online
or call them?
Ed

Having been satisfied with my lathe for about three years I have just
bought a second one from Homier. They have been out of stock for a very
long time but now have a limited stock. The price I paid was $299.00,
still the same price as nearly three years ago. Thought the group might
like to know. Regards, Ted.


Re: Way Lube, last post

Marty N
 

Thank you Clifford Clavin. :) Marty, I just barely got through your post without hitting 'next'. I think I'll just wait for the last post on this subject that just says '________ is the best lube to use'. Hey, please don't take my comments as a knock, you bring up some very valid points. Thanks for your insight. And have a very slippery day.

From: rancerupp

Uh, okay, your welcome, it think?
I use motor oil in my motor. Transmission fluid in my transmission. Gear oil in the differential.

So I think I'll use pancake syrup on my Ways. ;-)


Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe

 

Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone have a
listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they want
539 as of 3-1
I was finally ready to buy Friday (payday) and noticed the price
change - great timing. I called them anyway to see if they'd give me
the old sale price of $439, but the guy on the phone was just an order
taker but he did tell me their current price for it is $499. Also,
it's on Back Order. He said 20 days, but that's what they say when
they don't have an expected date.

Does anyone know of any place else that sells this model (other than
the LatheMaster 8x14) which is priced to high for me ($749+$169s/h)
even with the extra accessories and reportedly better service.
Ed


Re: R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:
G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.




You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid carbide single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you choose to do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make sure that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow with the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but they hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past (retired tool and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie


---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.


Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

G'day John et al.
We now know the blood(y) line of this Three Jaw Chick; she of sired
by Imprecise, out of True.
My wife is a loverly lady (chick) but occasionally she has one jaw
too many, a three jaw chick must be a fearsome beast.

Seriously, Roy's advice is good, there may be the opportunity for a
bit of gentle lapping but certainly no room for the village
blacksmith. We gets what we pay for. Three jaw chucks were only ever
seen as quick and easy for general work; precision requires either
collets or a four jaw chuck with setting up. The most repeatable
means of centering is to work between centres

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

That's a rather valid (and perceptive) point. I'd never realised
the
compromises necessary in the spiral scroll design concept.


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:
G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank - EDM

 

From the bookmarks (Warning, 1.4 mb PDF):


Issue 60 (p. 75-) and 63 (p. 95-) have some good information on
do-it-yourself EDM. The circuit pictured in 63 is obviously an
electrocution hazard not to mention a serious fire hazard. So this is
definitely in the "do not construct unless you really know what you're
doing" category.
This is a great method to remove broken stainless bolts from aluminum
parts, which is frequently a problem in marine engine repair. It is
just about the only method that works if some poor soul tries to use
an ez-out on the same.


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Hi again Gianni,

One thing I forgot. EDM is usually done in a tank of some dielectric
fluid. The fluid is also pumped around to remove the small metal
particles from the vicinity of the cutting edge. The tank will
impose size limits on your job.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about ?" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ? and
5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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. <> it/f

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Clicca qui: .
<>
it/cgi-bin/foclick.cgi?mid=5192&d=5-3










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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

Essentially, the metal is removed by a repetitive electrical
discharge. Do a google search. In brief, there are a couple of
forms. A sinker technique which simply sinks a hole through - can be
done with a shaped electrode for shaped holes. Then there's a wire
technique which is more like an EDM variation of a bandsaw or scroll
saw only with wire fed from a feed spool to a takeup spool via the
job. Same principle though. Mostly these are expensive CNC machines
and can do pretty exotic stuff. But I've seen DIY articles on the
web if you want to have a play. Otherwise, look for a firm offering
this service.

I suspect it's more suited to small quantities rather than mass
production. It doesn't do dozens of holes per minute. More like
dozens of minutes per hole! It has other neat uses too like
accurately eroding small broken taps. Hardness of the metal is a non-
issue. Anyway, do a google and check for local services.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about ?" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ? and
5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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R: Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank

 

Hi John



It is a plate about ?¡± thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ? and 5/16 in
diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di born4something
Inviato: luned¨¬ 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to EDM
equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt blanks?



Gianni




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Re: Way Lube, last post

 

Thank you Clifford Clavin. :) Marty, I just barely got through your
post without hitting 'next'. I think I'll just wait for the last post
on this subject that just says '________ is the best lube to use'.
Hey, please don't take my comments as a knock, you bring up some very
valid points. Thanks for your insight. And have a very slippery day.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:
Lubricity or as some call it "oiliness"! Of all the traits of a
lubricant
this is one that you rarely see a specification on. Usually from
synthetic
fluids suppliers but never from mineral oil suppliers. Unlike
viscosity
which is a function of the fluids internal interplay within itself,
internal
friction, lubricity defines how the lubricant interplays with the
material
it is applied to, external friction. From a tactile view point it
is hard to
distinguish. To quantify lubricity as a separate function, the
additive must
not interfere with the viscosity of the material it is added to. In
other
words the fluid, before and after addition, would need to display
the same
viscosity absolute (centipoises) as measured on something like a
Brookfield
Cone and Plate test rig, then show a lower sine of angle slip to
proof a
claim of greater lubricity. Years ago it was found that Wynn's
friction
proofing, which claimed greater lubricity, was not much more than
kerosene
which just reduced the viscosity of the base oil it was added too.
Yes it
provided a lower sine of slip but also reduced film strength
significantly
and greatly reduced viscosity and nobody at home knew the
difference. The
same effect could be simulated by going down one or two SAE grades
or
running the motor hotter by 20 to 30 degrees F.

Another "trick" used by oil suppliers is to play with the molecular
weight
via catalyst cracking operations or reforming, more or less
molecular
branching, or selectively placing the distribution curve of the
fluid via
distillation , thus altering the specific gravity. As the SAE and
ISO rating
systems are apparent viscosity systems their relationship to the
absolute
systems hinges on this factor. Apparent viscosity in centistokes
(cST)
relating to centipoises (cP), that is centistokes X specific
gravity =
centipoises. Centistokes or Saybolt Seconds are used as industry
standards
to classify a lubricant and if pumped or dripped the delivery
system cares
about its apparent nature but the lubricated surfaces proper only
cares
about the absolute value.

In a more simplistic layout, ways and slides use viscosity to
dampen
vibration "chatter" and provide dynamic braking to the system,
along with
mechanical considerations. An additive that provides lubricity at
the
expense of viscosity may improve the tactile "feel" while reducing
the
dampened features.

Keep us posted Rabid, I'm very interested in your project!

Marty