It would better to see for photos for right recommendation.?
If cast iron jaws or location the typical the cast is about 25,000psi.?
If steel it could go a lot high to 100,000 psi a different problem and fluxcore/mig is a good option.?
Brazing is can also be good some rods are 67,000 psi that rod I use for repairs. The down side is you can see the color of brass.?
If restoring fof some else the may want the same or very close color . If cast iron this a real pain the fine righ color of rod. The cast iron welding is very higher skill need.?
Dave?
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chrisser Feb 22? ?
I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad. It's been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up and put it to use.
There's a couple spots where it looks like someone missed with a drill and drilled slightly into the tops of the jaws
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Re: Can You Use a Dial Caliper as ag Non-Digital "DRO?" (was "Re: LittleMachines DROs and dials")
Yes, I know this can be done with digital calipers. I'm talking about doing it with a non-electronic dial caliper. Has anyone done it THAT way?
Mike Taglieri?
This what did on my mill.
?Dave??
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Re: Can You Use a Dial Caliper as a Non-Digital "DRO?" (was "Re: LittleMachines DROs and dials")
I like dial indicator only on the cross slide because will not skip on 0.001 or greater.
The rest of time digital read out if skips 0.001 or .002 I still have a good part.
Dave?
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Re: Can You Use a Dial Caliper as a Non-Digital "DRO?" (was "Re: LittleMachines DROs and dials")
This what did on my mill. ?Dave?? 
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I agree with mike allen with JB Weld.
Dave?
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Re: Can You Use a Dial Caliper as a Non-Digital "DRO?" (was "Re: LittleMachines DROs and dials")
I think someone mentioned that ya can get battery holder's with a
switch , some double sided tape to hold the battery holder on the
tailstock . Or ya can add yer own switch to one .
I'm sure there's a couple kazillion of them on the big A also .
animal
On 2/22/24 7:32 PM, Miket_NYC wrote:
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I just
bought a Shars 6" dial caliper after admiring one belonging
to a friend.? It's probably the best and most durable dial
caliper I've ever had.? But I also have a Chinese dial
caliper that's cheap and less solid-feeling than the Shars.?
So would it be practical to turn this cheapo dial caliper
into the equivalent of a DRO to measure tailstock
extension?? This would have disadvantages compared with
using a digital caliper for this, because you can't change
from metric to Imperial and you couldn't hit a button to
zero it.? But a major advantage is that the batteries would
never die.? Has anybody tried this?
Mike
Taglieri
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I'd leave them there if they don't affect the function of the
vise . Look at it this way , the holes? just yer dads way of
signing the vise before he gave it to ya , think about him every
time ye use it . I sure wouldn't go after them with heat . Like
mentioned JB We3ld will do the job .
animal
On 2/22/24 5:53 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
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I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad.? It's
been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up
and put it to use.
There's a couple spots where it looks like someone missed with a
drill and drilled slightly into the tops of the jaws.? Nothing
functionally wrong with it, but once I get it apart, was hoping to
do something just to make it look better cosmetically.
Was thinking I could use JB Weld or maybe one of those
metal-filled epoxy putties after cleaning the holes really well.?
Is there anything that would be longer lasting?? I have an
oxy-acetylene torch set and a mig welder.? I assume the vise jaws
are cast iron.? Maybe some sort of brazing?
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Can You Use a Dial Caliper as a Non-Digital "DRO?" (was "Re: LittleMachines DROs and dials")
I just bought a Shars 6" dial caliper after admiring one belonging to a friend.? It's probably the best and most durable dial caliper I've ever had.? But I also have a Chinese dial caliper that's cheap and less solid-feeling than the Shars.? So would it be practical to turn this cheapo dial caliper into the equivalent of a DRO to measure tailstock extension?? This would have disadvantages compared with using a digital caliper for this, because you can't change from metric to Imperial and you couldn't hit a button to zero it.? But a major advantage is that the batteries would never die.? Has anybody tried this?
Mike Taglieri
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Thd best is cast iron filler next is braising.?
The big question is are you good at braising.??
If not JB is a good option. They do make better fillers but at higher cost. But JB is found at the local hardware store.?
Da
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JB Weld IS a metal filled epoxy and is plenty strong enough for this.
Mike Taglieri?
I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad.? It's been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up and put it to use.
There's a couple spots where it looks like someone missed with a drill and drilled slightly into the tops of the jaws.? Nothing functionally wrong with it, but once I get it apart, was hoping to do something just to make it look better cosmetically.
Was thinking I could use JB Weld or maybe one of those metal-filled epoxy putties after cleaning the holes really well.? Is there anything that would be longer lasting?? I have an oxy-acetylene torch set and a mig welder.? I assume the vise jaws are cast iron.? Maybe some sort of brazing?
|
I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad.? It's been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up and put it to use.
There's a couple spots where it looks like someone missed with a drill and drilled slightly into the tops of the jaws.? Nothing functionally wrong with it, but once I get it apart, was hoping to do something just to make it look better cosmetically.
Was thinking I could use JB Weld or maybe one of those metal-filled epoxy putties after cleaning the holes really well.? Is there anything that would be longer lasting?? I have an oxy-acetylene torch set and a mig welder.? I assume the vise jaws are cast iron.? Maybe some sort of brazing?
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
Back before WW1 they gave as Bed length.??
Lather it was center to center till Chinese lathes came out and they use a both center to center or chuck face face to center. Which I only found out last year.?
My new is a 8x14. 13.8 from chuck to center need to chance to stub center.??
But center to center is almost 18"?
Dave?
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I found it better to buy the correct steel and it makes life easier.??
Scrap is low cost or even free but it can be a pain too.
Dave?
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The VERY first thing I'd do is do a file test for hardness. If it¡¯s hardened you¡¯ll want to anneal it first!
I agree with the recommendations for using HSS, because of the interrupted cut. That will also mean a slower speed which may help with the vibration of the unbalanced part
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On Feb 20, 2024, at 7:00 PM, Johannes <johannes@...> wrote:
Am I crazy?
Too big for my 7x16?
I need ?just to cut/grind/polish the outer surface so it looks nice.
I think it has been a 2¡± axel ?, see the key slot. Weight 3.5 kg.
High carbon steel ?
I cut it with an angle grinder: the sparks had a star in the end.
The VERY first thing I'd do is do a file test for hardness. If it¡¯s hardened you¡¯ll want to anneal it first!
I agree with the recommendations for using HSS, because of the interrupted cut. That will also mean a slower speed which may help with the vibration of the unbalanced part.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 02:18 AM, Charles Devore wrote:
the 70's? I worked at a shop that purchased a new lathe made in Romania. The Romanian who came out for some warranty repair said they measured turning length distance from a spindle faceplate(not chuck) to tailstock.
Probably many factors involved. Some small vintage USA lathes gave the centers standard and with the tailstock overhanging the end of the bed granting a couple extra inches of length for some reduced rigidity.
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Check this out - custom steady rest:
this was for as LED lighting project for a subway system...
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On 2/20/2024 9:08 PM, Brian VanDragt wrote: If it fits, it's not too big. I turned some 2 or 2.5" tubing once.Brian
-------- Original message --------From: Johannes <johannes@...> Date: 2/20/24 9:01 PM (GMT-05:00) To: [email protected] Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Crazy? Am I crazy?Too big for my 7x16?I need? just to cut/grind/polish the outer surface so it looks nice.I think it has been a 2¡± axel? , see the key slot. Weight 3.5 kg.High carbon steel ? I cut it with an angle grinder: the sparks had a star in the end.Johannes?? Lavoll.????????????? ?? Attachments:image0.jpeg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/118862/0
Attachments:
20200712_205258_resized.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/118863/0
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I would definitely take it off the lathe and get most of the heavy rust removed with coarse sandpaper or coarse wire brush/wheel first.
It's not too big to turn.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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On the same idea as animal said. Take the bar out and use a wire brush in an electric drill.? That will be more aggressive than ScotchBrite.? Once you have all the surface rust off you can get an idea of how much material you need to take off to get a good finish.? If it was an axle, it will probably be hard so HSS won't last long before needing to be resharpened.
If you have a carbide tool, use that with with a reasonable depth of cut.? Could you manage 4 thou?? Modern carbide tips are quite forgiving, but be prepared to go through two or three. As Bill said, if you want a very good finish, you could try a shear tool afterwards.? Then, or instead of the shear tool, use AlOx (abrasive) cloth for the finish.? Protect the lathe ways if using the abrasive cloth.
On Wednesday, 21 February 2024, 03:05:09 UTC, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? Scotch pad
animal
On 2/20/24 6:59 PM, Bill Williams
wrote:
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at
7:58?PM Bill Williams < bwmsbldr1@...>
wrote:
A shear cut tool will leave you with a very
fine surface finish.? ?Bil in Boulder
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at
7:53?PM Johannes < johannes@...>
wrote:
Maybe I shall cover everything and start
with sanding paper? I am only interesting in a nice
surface.
The key slot shall stay there.
Start testing to morrow!
Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
?I don't know what you have for
tooling. I would try HSS first. The interrupted
cut will probably chip carbide.?
Brian?
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/20/24 9:18 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Crazy?
Brian: this is solid steel, 3.5 kg, because of
the key slot , it will vibrate.?
Slow speed , yes, but what tool?
Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ?
? ?
?If it fits, it's not too
big. I turned some 2 or 2.5" tubing
once.
Brian?
-------- Original message
--------
Date: 2/20/24 9:01 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Crazy?
Am I crazy?
Too big for my 7x16?
I need? just to cut/grind/polish the
outer surface so it looks nice.
I think it has been a 2¡± axel? , see the
key slot. Weight 3.5 kg.
High carbon steel ?
I cut it with an angle grinder: the
sparks had a star in the end.
Johannes?? Lavoll.?????????????
??
Attachments:
image0.jpeg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/118862/0
Attachments:
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If your suggest sandpaper, that means this doesn't need to be a precision surface, so I would try a very coarse file first Unlike sandpaper that will not shed abrasives all over the lathe.
Mike Taglieri?
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024, 9:53 PM Johannes < johannes@...> wrote: Maybe I shall cover everything and start with sanding paper? I am only interesting in a nice surface. The key slot shall stay there. Start testing to morrow! Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
?I don't know what you have for tooling. I would try HSS first. The interrupted cut will probably chip carbide.?
Brian?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2/20/24 9:18 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Crazy?
Brian: this is solid steel, 3.5 kg, because of the key slot , it will vibrate.? Slow speed , yes, but what tool? Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
?If it fits, it's not too big. I turned some 2 or 2.5" tubing once.
Brian?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2/20/24 9:01 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Crazy?
Am I crazy? Too big for my 7x16? I need? just to cut/grind/polish the outer surface so it looks nice. I think it has been a 2¡± axel? , see the key slot. Weight 3.5 kg. High carbon steel ? I cut it with an angle grinder: the sparks had a star in the end. Johannes?? Lavoll.????????????? ?? Attachments: image0.jpeg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/118862/0Attachments:
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Use a very sharp tip carbide about 60¡ã and a rake of 3¡ã to 5¡ã.?
Typically I would say C5 but for the project use C6 or C2 they very hard compared to C5.??
Note you may need to sharpen the tool bit a lot.?
Dave?
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Johannes 6:01pm? ?
Am I crazy?
Too big for my 7x16?
I need just to cut/grind/polish the outer surface so it looks nice.
I think it has been a 2¡± axel , see the key slot. Weight 3.5 kg.
High carbon steel ??
I cut it with an angle grinder: the sparks had a star in the end
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davesmith1800
chrisser