On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 05:22 PM, <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:

The difference might also affect the size of tools that will still be able to be set at center height.

Using the stock tool post (which is the same dimensions for the 2 lathes - the MicroLux a Sieg, the Vevor a RealBull) here's a 12mm insert tool in the Vevor.

The brass height gauge is at spindle center height.

Here's the same 12mm tool in the MicroLux:



Microlux with 8 mm insert tool in stock toolpost:

On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 05:54 PM, Roy wrote:

There's a dial indictor attachment for that!

Thanks, Roy - I didn't know about those. Actually my mini (cheap) DTI will reach almost as far into the spindle as the Starrett attachment.
Could a coaxial centering indicator be used for checking an internal Morse taper?

On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 06:04 PM, Michael Jablonski wrote:

At first glance most would identify the Vevor as a RealBull and the MicroMark as a Seig.

Thanks, Michael.

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There's a dial indictor attachment for that!

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Roy

On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 10:03 AM, Mark Kimball wrote:

Pulling the bearings would be the most definitive way to tell but that's pretty extreme.

Mark- Thanks for that info and ideas about checking the type of bearings in the Vevor. As you say, there's no easy way to get a definitive answer.
I'm quite curious by nature, but even for me there's a limit! :)
The headstock bearings are one of the things that seem to be perfectly OK on the Vevor, so I'm going to work through the list of 'fixit' things, bit by bit.
I need one of those shop signs as a constant reminder: "If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is!" :)

So I plugged it in and it ran. On the face of it everything seemed fine.

Then I hand wound the carriage and what a racket. Short story the half nut was catching on the thread. Also when the nut was closed the lead screw obviously bent towards the front!

A least taking it apart is straight forward. Using the bench grinder ground a bit off the edge of the half nuts. This seemed to reduce the catching but not the thread bending? as much. So the two holes through which the front of the saddle is fixed to the bed were filed a bit on the front side. The idea being it brings the front element forwards a bit. It worked. Now no more catching and no bending of lead screw.

I then noticed the top slide was actually at a slight angle. Wound it back, and off. Using a square resent the base. Refitted the top slide fitting the gib strip properly.

Then I found an odd white samll plastic gear that had come out the end. Funny that as it work OK. So end off and it is a spare idler gear! I think that is what it is. There is a spot for it to screw into but it does nothing so left it off.

So now for its first run cutting metal, aluminium. Using a brazed carbide tipped tool. Cannot say I like them but at least it is good enough to test it with. For facing I brought the tail stock up to the saddle and locked it n place. On my previous lathe I used to place a plate between saddle and tail stock. Never got around to making a lock, reckon I need to find that plate again.

As I was expecting having to do some work on it I was not disappointed.? As the prices for these machines seemed to have a wide spread and i got one at the bottom end I am quite happy. Whatever happens they are not going to get any cheaper and it is certainly easy to work on.

I am not bothered about precision work. A Cowell with an extra 0 on the price is beyond my needs.?

I reckon it will do for the odd small turning jobs I do. I will not be doing any long stuff so the 12"/300mm bed is enough, especially with the price difference over 14"/350mm and the chuck in the tail stock does not get in the way.

I saw a tip on line to make a cover for the saddle winding gears; looks a good idea. Guard seems useless as tool post catches it close to chuck.?

Chinese stuff like this is a case of you get what you pay for and if you do not flog it to death will suffice as a amateurs tool. Seems to be the case with the other occasionally use cheap Chinese stuff.?

Thanks for the suggestions from my first post. I am now going to see how things work out. So far I have not bolted it to bench. No problems with the test run and probably light work will be OK. Just have to watch out. Handy being able to push it back.

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On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 04:12 AM, paul mcclintic wrote:

The one I am trying to get them to correct is the taper of the spindle. When I placed a dead center in it I have 0.0035" run-out which is unacceptable by most standards.

Your comment inspired me to add that to my 'ToDo' list for my Vevor. :) I know that the open end of the spindle bore is almost perfect (<0.01 mm runout), but I don't think I have a way to reach very far into the taper to make measurements.

How did you measure the runout? I don't have a lot of confidence in the MT centers and adapters I have.

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??? ??? The way we test the bearing's in the headstock on our South bend lathes is to put a solid bar through the spindle & put a indicator on the spindle & then you pull up on the rod & see what the measurement is . The lathe has to be secured to the bench to do this , which should be done anyways to make sure there is no twist in the bed . But that's a discussion / argument for another day .

??? ??? animal

On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 11:36 PM, <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:

I haven't checked the spindle bearings. Is there an easy way to do that?

Pulling the bearings would be the most definitive way to tell but that's pretty extreme.? If they're not tapered roller bearings you then would have to replace the bearings.

You can expose the front bearing some by removing the front bearing shield mounting screws and moving the shield as far as you can to the right.? But I don't know if that will reveal enough to tell for sure.? Tapered roller bearings are a little thicker so they will stick out a bit more.....on a lathe that wasn't originally designed for them.? If your lathe was designed for tapered roller bearings from the get-go that may not be the case.? Looking at the front bearing is the lowest-effort approach anyway.

If you've got an endoscope you could try taking off the headstock and looking inside it from the bottom (it's open).? The diameter of the inner part of the bearing will be smaller, compared to the outer side....but that also is the case for angular contact bearings (and there's absolutely nothing wrong with AC bearings).? Maybe one of those little inspection mirrors on a handle would work for this.? If I was to go this far I'd probably take the opportunity to shim the headstock to get it better aligned with the bed.? At least that way it wouldn't be a total waste of time.

Tapered roller bearings aren't shielded but deep groove and AC bearings won't necessarily have them, either.? I don't think you could get a good enough view of the bearing to see if it's got balls or rollers but I could be wrong about that.

Mark

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George- I do have some 1/8 Lexan but this plastic was easier to cut. I didn't see the point of apron covers until the carriage on my Microlux jammed for a few seconds in the middle of a cut, due to swarf. It was the worst possible combination: uncovered gears and a novice (me) adding grease to them, creating a haven for swarf. At least the Vevor gears'shafts were better machined so they sit below the edge of the casting and I could use a flat cover. On the Microlux I had to add an extra piece of plastic around the perimeter to raise the cover away from the gears.

I too bought the VEVOR 7X14 on impulse and have problems. The one I am trying to get them to correct is the taper of the spindle. When I placed a dead center in it I have 0.0035" run-out which is unacceptable by most standards. They are working with their "supplier" to see what can be done. I hope they will ship me a new spindle.? Paul M

On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 01:34 AM, gcvisalia@... wrote:

So the only plus about it is that I know that lathe very well.

Right! I've had my Microlux 7x14 pretty much stripped to pieces and re-assembled (switched headstock bearings even though it wasn't needed) so when my Vevor showed up I had 'no fear' about taking it apart. :) It's a hobby. If I had planned on using these lathes to produce essential parts or do jobs for money, my attitude would be different.

I got the carriage/saddle shims worked out, and the way thickness issues fixed, so the saddle is now sliding smoothly.
I made an apron cover for the gears. It keeps the swarf out of the gears and also keeps the large gear and pinion in place and prevents that gear from 'walking out' until the pinion hits the lathe base at the rack.
Our security company stuck a sign in our lawn last year - that provided the thin plastic for the cover. M3 fasteners.

On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 12:37 PM, Kaj Wiik wrote:

Many thanks for the reports! Have you checked if the spindle has indeed?tapered roller bearings?

?

Cheers,

Kaj

Thanks, Kaj.
No, I haven't checked the spindle bearings. Is there an easy way to do that?