开云体育

Hi Mark, I have been following this interesting discussion on cross slide travel mods and anti backlash mods. I have had my go at it a few years back and am happy with what I have so I am just

I think the spring you used might have been a 9434K113 which has a 0.39" I.D. to go over the 10MM (0.394") shaft. The 9434K72 only has a 0.296" I.D..

Not exactly a 7x lathe, but close... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_ySY5UTalI&t=720s <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_ySY5UTalI&t=720s> Between 12 minutes and 13 minutes . Here is an answer on 1

Hi Chad, Quinn Dunki (Blondihacks) has talked about the way Chinese gears are made and apparently they can be a but rough. You might need to polish then a bit with a file. This will not affect the

I just looked at where the indents were and just used a small drill bit to make them a tad deeper and wider. Not much at all. But now without looking, I can feel and know where the lever and detent

This was the case on my machine, too; I tried to do a large threading operation (I think it was 13tpi ) and the lever would just pop out of the detent. Actually calling them ‘center punches’ was

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I

thanks for all the feedback. I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop. If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal

Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.

Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots. Roy

Some lash between gears is desirable. Any amount of binding between gears is not wanted at all. I was taught that when using the half nuts for threading to always keep keep some tension on the

If the gears are jammed together too tightly (too much engagement of the teeth) that can also cause noise - and excessive tooth wear. Getting the gears 'just right' -loose but not too loose - is

Looks like you need to fiddle around with spacers under the gears to ensure you're getting full gear width tooth engagement. Mine improved with slightly moving/enlarging the detent holes with a rotary

Hi. I went with the Clough 42 based system. He has a lot of videos on YouTube about the development and sells a kit that has a board that plugs into a Texas Instruments launchpad board and a control

Ryan , which ELS did you go with ? ??? ??? thanks ??? ??? animal

And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to

Aside from what you already mentioned, check the engagement of the gear’s teeth for backlash. You can use a plain piece of copier paper between the teeth of two gears. Many times there is more than

There have been a lot of reports about the detents (divots) for the Fwd/0-Rev lever being in the wrong spot. Is the lever moving enough to fully engage the gears for reversing the leadscrew? On my

I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad. It gets to a point where it vibrates awful. I didn't want to take too

While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is