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So, do I want to use an AC or DC meter? It appears Ian was successful
with DC, but I'd think connecting to the AC line would be easier and
I'd prefer to stay away from the motor electronics. Also, wouldn't a
5A meter would be sufficient? At 120V for a 400W rated motor, it
shouldn't ever draw more than 3.5A. If it ever went over 5A I'd expect
the fuse to blow.

Hi Marty,

The round shank is an interesting feature - they went to some trouble
to grind that since they started with a square blank.

My guess is that this is a threading tool rather than a cutoff tool;
the round shank allows angling the tool as is needed when making
square threads. Martin Cleeve recommends round shank threading tools
for this reason in "Screwcutting in the Lathe".

One suggested profile for cutoff tools is with a V in the top of the
tool. This works as a chipbreaker so chips don't pack into the narrow
groove. I've found this works well but it is tricky to get an
accurate V such that it cuts the same on both sides of the groove.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime.

On center if I understand your question correctly. I sent Clint what

I hope

is a clearer picture a bit closer. Getting a snap of the front end

was a

disaster. The upper point of the vee is the first thing to contact the
material. From the side view the relief under the point is 10

degrees back

and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the
remainder. The square portion is .310" as is the round. From the

square to

the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included

and .150

from the tip to the flat. The tool tapers from the vee in width from

.180"

back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is

about

10 degrees included. Hope that helps.

Marty,

Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder
locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a

shearing

type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top
angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it

only

cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish.
Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info
would be appreciated.

Jeff

PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light
diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the

light

and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections

I just checked the tool height and it is dead on center.
Ren

Bill:

I checked the site and it came up fine?!?!? I reloaded it anyway,

try again.

This has happened once before as was corrected in this way. Sorry

for the

trouble. If it still does it try the refresh button once on the site.

Marty

Try it with a Gecko based browser like Firefox, Netscape 6.0+,
Seamonkey, Konqueror, etc. Validator.w3.org mentions a few errors
that may help you find the trouble. I get the same problem with both
Firefox and Konqueror. It works normally in IE. I'm running Linux at
1600x1200 desktop resolution.

I just saw one in the Micro-Mark catalog that came in the mail
yesterday. Check their web site micromark.com it's Item Number 83164.
Don't expect lathe help from Cummins (or Homier where I bought my
lathe) - that's why we're here. You have to decide if customer service
from someplace like Grizzly or Lathemaster is worth the extra price
for their machines - it's not to me.
Ed

When this happens to me, it is almost always one of two things.
Either I have the tool set just a hair too low (not on center), or I
have left too much tool sticking out to do the job and it flexes
enough for it to get pushed below center and catches. It's a real
mess when either happens.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "NESTOR MONLLOR"
<amaliomonllor@...> wrote:

Good morning guys,
I'm a little lost here.
When I'm parting off a piece and I move the crosslide into the

work, the cutter rides, I guess, downward then "pops" up. The bottom
of the crosslide doesn't seem to be moving, but either the compound
or the tool post does move. I checked and the toolpost seems to be
tight to the compound. Which leads me to believe the compound is
loose. Where do ZI tighten this?

It turned into a major problem because I was making a ferrule for a

fly rod and the piece got all bent to heck and is now completely
unusable.

Thank you,
Ren

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, just wanted to tell all how much I love this place....The info I
have gotten from you guys is great....What I am looking for is a
Rotating Tailstock Chuck for my Cummins 5278 mini lathe....I just
bought the lathe about a month ago and getting info or help with it
seems to be the task of the day....Even the folks that sell this lathe
are not the most helpful in the world....Did I leap before I looked
when buying this brand??? Thanks again, Have a great holiday!!!
Keith

Good morning guys,
I'm a little lost here.
When I'm parting off a piece and I move the crosslide into the work, the cutter rides, I guess, downward then "pops" up. The bottom of the crosslide doesn't seem to be moving, but either the compound or the tool post does move. I checked and the toolpost seems to be tight to the compound. Which leads me to believe the compound is loose. Where do ZI tighten this?
It turned into a major problem because I was making a ferrule for a fly rod and the piece got all bent to heck and is now completely unusable.
Thank you,
Ren

Are you dead sure the parting tool is on center and not low?

I wonder if it would it be possible to make up a boring bar, with a
short front section "A" of a diameter which is a sliding fit inside
the spindle, then a length "B" of smaller diameter carrying the
tool bit, and then a short section "C" which is a sliding fit at
the "opened out" diameter which the bit will cut. With the spindle
turning, push this boring bar through it with the tailstock centre
(some sort of dog would be needed to stop the bar rotating, and the
cut would have to be in stages, to allow the tailstock to be moved
between stages) Section A would centre the bar in the spindle at
the beginning of the cut, and B would be of such a length that, by
the time A emerged from the spindle, section C would have entered
the bore and take over the centring job.

Or would this, too, tend to self-feed and pull the bar away from the
tailstock centre?
Cheaper than a reamer, though, and a big drill would need a big
chuck, unless it had a Morse taper shank to fit the tailstock.

Andy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

From experience, it's still a problem. With a TS mounted drill,

it'll

still try to self feed, either jamming the machine or popping the

chuck

out of the TS taper. With a carriage mounted drill, it'll still

try to

pull itself in. The reamer did a nice job, with no drama:-)

Roy

Thanks Marty,


In terms of diffusing flash, a white tissue over the flash is pretty
effective. Fold a few layers and tape them if needed. You game to
tackle a front-on view? If the camera is autofocussing you may need
to sit the tool on top of something else (at the same range) to fool
the camera into focussing on the small target.

Hi John:

It's one of the things I dislike about the digital camera. I can get a pic of the eye of a fly with my manual Pentax film camera but this Fuji Digital is a focusing nightmare. I spend hours yesterday getting what I did get and likely drove Clint bannanas reposting snaps for me, sorry Clint. I'll have a go at your request and try the tissue paper idea. Should have thought of that myself. Use bounce flash or reflectors with film :(

Marty

True, but you can work the bottom of the way flat using the gibs
themselves.

Hi Mike:

Instead of grinding compound (which I also use) I found some self adhesive backed sandpaper used in body shops for circular orbital sanders, 320 grit. Cut to shape and used that to prevent a by level face on the gib when done. Yes, scraping does cut down on the amount of sanding/grinding required.

Your comment on shim width is spot on, I made that mistake and it took awhile to figure out what was going on :)

Marty

Marty,

For some reason when I look at your site, the pictures are blocking out the
text.

Bill:

I checked the site and it came up fine?!?!? I reloaded it anyway, try again. This has happened once before as was corrected in this way. Sorry for the trouble. If it still does it try the refresh button once on the site.

Marty

C&#92;G'day Ed.

The way cover works great with steel and aluminium. Brass, because
there is no rake on the tool, goes everywhere, mosty into the tray.

I don't know your QTH but I am in Oz. The meter came from Jaycar
Electronics, Cat No.QP-5014. Jaycar are a major electronics component
retailer in Oz and now have a branch in the UK, you can mail order,
Google "Jaycar". In the US you could try Digikey, Mouser or Radio
Shack. In the UK Farnell would also be worth a try. The meter cost
AUD15.95, about USD12.00.

Thanks for looking. I am pleased with the pictures as the flash seems
to be doing the right thing.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:

I tried that too, but Yahoo Search wasn't being very cooperative. I
finally found it - there's no space between 7x10 and minilathe! Nice
pics. Where'd you get the meter? How well does that aluminum tray
work as a way cover? I just finished writing the G-Code to cut a piece
of HDPE that'll wrap around the saddle, fill the gap in between the
traveling steady screws, and extend out 2" to act as a way cover
(kinda like your tray does.) Now I know where to post pictures when
I'm done.
Thanks,
Ed

G'day Ed
Read my lips<G>! Get yourself into "7x10 minilathe-photos" It is a
relatively new group with the overflow of the 7x10 group. Note the
title of the group is as I have shown it vis "7x10 minilathe-

photos" ;

Sorry about the mangled link - try

<> .

John

Hi,

Some time back there was discussion of soluble oil and its
availability in Oz. Must have been steam4ian asking. I just got back
to looking and found some info at www.azom.com/details.asp?
ArticleID=2240. Down the bottom of that page are a number of mineral
oil cutting fluids. All but the last three show up in a search at
Blackwoods. I'm not familiar with the product names and Blackwoods'
web site isn't abundantly full of it. But is that useful?

John

True, but you can work the bottom of the way flat using the gibs
themselves. As I describe in my way-lapping article at
get the bottom of the bed
roughly flat with a scraper and attach one (shimmed) gib at a time with
grinding compound between gib and bed and the capscrews slightly loose.
As the compound takes off the high spots you tighten the screws and
remove shims until all the high spots are gone and the bed is uniform.
Then do the same thing with the other gib. You've now got a trued bed
(and pretty damn smooth gibs) at the same time. I need to take out maybe
one .001" shim per year to keep it tight, and am still using the original
gibs.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

Thanks Marty,

Those pics help clarify a lot - well worth a thousand words!

In terms of diffusing flash, a white tissue over the flash is pretty
effective. Fold a few layers and tape them if needed. You game to
tackle a front-on view? If the camera is autofocussing you may need
to sit the tool on top of something else (at the same range) to fool
the camera into focussing on the small target.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote:

Okay John:

I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well

as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and
hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most
important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt.

Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city.

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting


Hi Marty,

You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting

tool

and especially the business end, won't you?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@> wrote:
>
>
> G'day Jim
>
> <snip>
> I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I
frequently
> stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted

it

at a
> place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It
certainly
> confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got
short
> changed.
>
> Regards
> Ian
>
> Ian and All:
>
> Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of

tooling,

fixtures
> etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face

plate

and ran
> across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting

tooling.

Most of
> this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars

was

engraved
> "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the
tooling and
> date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the
same
> manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all

the

same time
> period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a
parting tool
> and thus the snip from Ian's post.
>
> This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of

fine

jewelry!
> I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you

are

looking
> into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the

geometry

of the
> tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem
stone. "T" form
> parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow"

to

the center
> of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip
straight back
> over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and

directs it

by a
> complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact.

Think

of a "V"
> form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching
holder and the
> operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed"

address

it seems.
>
> Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the
amazement of
> the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very
little power to
> do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is
designed to
> part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation!
>
> Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to

do

with power
> requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square

faced

tool into
> the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :(
>
> Marty
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

<>

Marty,

For some reason when I look at your site, the pictures are blocking out the
text.

Bill