True, but you can work the bottom of the way flat using the gibs
themselves. As I describe in my way-lapping article at
get the bottom of the bed
roughly flat with a scraper and attach one (shimmed) gib at a time with
grinding compound between gib and bed and the capscrews slightly loose.
As the compound takes off the high spots you tighten the screws and
remove shims until all the high spots are gone and the bed is uniform.
Then do the same thing with the other gib. You've now got a trued bed
(and pretty damn smooth gibs) at the same time. I need to take out maybe
one .001" shim per year to keep it tight, and am still using the original
gibs.
Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
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Unless you've worked the bottom of the way flat and parallel to
the top you will find tight and loose spots. Make your adjustment
over a tight area or it will bind latter when the saddle travels
over those points. 90% of the work is done by the rear gib unless
you have a rear mount tool post for parting or other work get that
one as good as you can.
Marty
