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Date

Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

开云体育

One way to improve finish, especially if the power feed moves a bit faster than you would like, is to make the tool bit more round nosed.? You are sort of cutting a very fine thread which is one way to think about it.? How do you get the “pitch” of the thread smaller and the “depth” of the “thread” shallower.

?

Chuck K.

?

Sent from for Windows

?

From: Mark Kimball
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2022 9:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

?

For a very long time I used my 7x12 without any modifications whatsoever and made lots of good stuff, so unless you discover some significant problem with your machine I'd suggest just starting to make stuff and learning as you go.? Some of the first things I made were some simple chassis inserts for my VW golf to replace the broken luggage-cover lift hooks, the things the lift straps hang onto on the hatch.? The originals don't seem to hold up very long.? I made the replacements from aluminum about 20 years ago and they're still going strong.? I actually learned a lot from that, turning studs with a specific ID, OD and length, and tapered inserts to expand the end of the studs.? I hand-cut two slots across the end of each stud so it could expand as I inserted the insert so the stud would be captured in the original hole.

The key to making items like this is to look at the original (broken) pieces to see how they work and then make parts that produce the same function....but simpler and probably uglier <g>.? Use the KISS principle whenever you can :)?

The other key issue is using decent cutting tools.? I started out _trying_ to use the cheap brazed-carbide cutting tools that many 7x12 vendors want to sell you, but they usually are about the worst possible thing you could use on a 7x12.? The? cutting angles on them can vary all over the map, and often are bad for a relatively low-powered 7x lathe ... or for that matter ANY lathe, unless you've got the right grinding setup for carbide.? If you don't want to mess with grinding your own cutting tools for now, buy a set of cutters that use carbide inserts from a vendor like LMS (Litttle Machine Shop) -- perhaps not ideal, but in my experience inserts work well enough for many of the things I want to make.? Most of my insert cutters are using the same insert they came with, 10+ years later -- since I mostly turn aluminum or softer materials.? Maybe the finish isn't mirror-like, but it's usually good enough for my purposes.

Remember the old Machinist's adage that "perfect is the enemy of good enough" and you will have a more enjoyable time making things.? Maybe I didn't reproduce the phrase exactly, but....it's good enough, right??

Mark

?


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

For a very long time I used my 7x12 without any modifications whatsoever and made lots of good stuff, so unless you discover some significant problem with your machine I'd suggest just starting to make stuff and learning as you go.? Some of the first things I made were some simple chassis inserts for my VW golf to replace the broken luggage-cover lift hooks, the things the lift straps hang onto on the hatch.? The originals don't seem to hold up very long.? I made the replacements from aluminum about 20 years ago and they're still going strong.? I actually learned a lot from that, turning studs with a specific ID, OD and length, and tapered inserts to expand the end of the studs.? I hand-cut two slots across the end of each stud so it could expand as I inserted the insert so the stud would be captured in the original hole.

The key to making items like this is to look at the original (broken) pieces to see how they work and then make parts that produce the same function....but simpler and probably uglier <g>.? Use the KISS principle whenever you can :)?

The other key issue is using decent cutting tools.? I started out _trying_ to use the cheap brazed-carbide cutting tools that many 7x12 vendors want to sell you, but they usually are about the worst possible thing you could use on a 7x12.? The? cutting angles on them can vary all over the map, and often are bad for a relatively low-powered 7x lathe ... or for that matter ANY lathe, unless you've got the right grinding setup for carbide.? If you don't want to mess with grinding your own cutting tools for now, buy a set of cutters that use carbide inserts from a vendor like LMS (Litttle Machine Shop) -- perhaps not ideal, but in my experience inserts work well enough for many of the things I want to make.? Most of my insert cutters are using the same insert they came with, 10+ years later -- since I mostly turn aluminum or softer materials.? Maybe the finish isn't mirror-like, but it's usually good enough for my purposes.

Remember the old Machinist's adage that "perfect is the enemy of good enough" and you will have a more enjoyable time making things.? Maybe I didn't reproduce the phrase exactly, but....it's good enough, right??

Mark


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

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I'm a? learning newbie with the mini lathes, but I think I'm getting better.? I haven't messed with the cross slide travel mod.? Only mods I've made are a carriage lock and cover over the apron gears to keep chips out. The lathe I have had a chip guard over the lead screw but with the cover over the apron gears mod, the chip guard over the lead screw no longer fits. The cover sticks out too far. Still undecided on getting a larger bed. So far the lathe I have has done anything I've wanted to do.

Think I'll stick with the plastic gears rather than go with the metal gears.

I've noticed the grooved finish with the lathe I have when the lead screw is engaged. Not so much when I turn the crank manually. Unsure if it's due to the speed used, how I ground the HSS bits or what.? Would be interested in more comments on that.? At first I ground the bits with a bench grinder, but I started using a belt sander afterwards.

Stan


On 3/31/22 20:50, Roy via groups.io wrote:

The first mod I recommend is increasing the cross slide travel! There are several approaches that add 1" more travel, allowing you to reach the outside of anything that can be spun in the lathe.

Chuck is exactly right, there's no benefit to replacing the plastic gears with metal. Actually, the plastic gears are easier to live with, since they don't require lubrication. The gear tooth loads for threading & power feed are quite low. I'm also a proponent of adding a separate drive for the lead screw - some flavor of hand crank + a small timing motor for fine feed. Also, a hand crank for the spindle is nice, both for threading & cutting to a shoulder.

Roy


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

The first mod I recommend is increasing the cross slide travel! There are several approaches that add 1" more travel, allowing you to reach the outside of anything that can be spun in the lathe.

Chuck is exactly right, there's no benefit to replacing the plastic gears with metal. Actually, the plastic gears are easier to live with, since they don't require lubrication. The gear tooth loads for threading & power feed are quite low. I'm also a proponent of adding a separate drive for the lead screw - some flavor of hand crank + a small timing motor for fine feed. Also, a hand crank for the spindle is nice, both for threading & cutting to a shoulder.

Roy


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

Washington State.


Sent from , Swiss-based encrypted email.

Sent with secure email.

------- Original Message -------
On Thursday, March 31st, 2022 at 4:37 PM, Kenneth.Landaiche via groups.io <Kenneth.Landaiche@...> wrote:

Thanks! I look forward to it. And I’ve noticed all of the upgrade projects on different peoples’ lathe websites.

?

I noticed you use ProtonMail. Are you in Switzerland?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Phil via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2022 4:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

?

WARNING: Email originated from an EXTERNAL source. Do NOT click links, open attachments or reply unless you recognize sender and know the content is safe.

Congratulations and let the cleaning begin!

If it is anything like mine was, you are going to find foundry sand in places you won't believe.

The chuck will definitely need to be taken apart, cleaned out and lubricated first thing.

Lots of cleaning in your future.

Then you can start in on the literally endless upgrade process.

Good luck and happy chip making.

?

Sent from , Swiss-based encrypted email.

?

Sent with secure email.


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CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient and may contain material that is proprietary, confidential, privileged or otherwise legally protected or restricted under applicable government laws. Any review, disclosure, distributing or other use without expressed permission of the sender is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and delete all copies without reading, printing, or saving.



Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

开云体育

Thanks! I look forward to it. And I’ve noticed all of the upgrade projects on different peoples’ lathe websites.

?

I noticed you use ProtonMail. Are you in Switzerland?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Phil via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2022 4:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

?

WARNING: Email originated from an EXTERNAL source. Do NOT click links, open attachments or reply unless you recognize sender and know the content is safe.

Congratulations and let the cleaning begin!

If it is anything like mine was, you are going to find foundry sand in places you won't believe.

The chuck will definitely need to be taken apart, cleaned out and lubricated first thing.

Lots of cleaning in your future.

Then you can start in on the literally endless upgrade process.

Good luck and happy chip making.

?

Sent from , Swiss-based encrypted email.

?

Sent with secure email.


?
?

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient and may contain material that is proprietary, confidential, privileged or otherwise legally protected or restricted under applicable government laws. Any review, disclosure, distributing or other use without expressed permission of the sender is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and delete all copies without reading, printing, or saving.


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

Congratulations and let the cleaning begin!
If it is anything like mine was, you are going to find foundry sand in places you won't believe.
The chuck will definitely need to be taken apart, cleaned out and lubricated first thing.
Lots of cleaning in your future.
Then you can start in on the literally endless upgrade process.
Good luck and happy chip making.

Sent from , Swiss-based encrypted email.

Sent with secure email.


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

And then after all that, then you start to get to work on your lathe. By this I mean as you use it,you find so many things that need to be fixed or altered. Most of these will be necessary and some for your liking. I just watched a thousand youtube videos to help but things start to come together as you use it. So start using it. No one learns a lathe overnight. In fact I think that those who one could call experts are still learning.

george

On Thursday, March 31, 2022, 11:06:43 AM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


I don’t think there is any advantage to metal over plastic for all the main gears.? You could instead put that money to something more useful.

?

A chip guarding cover over the apron gear is probably a very good first addition to the lathe.? I think most make this themselves from thin plastic.? But you can buy one ready-cut from this eBay seller (and I have no association with this).? The photo there shows you what it looks like and I’m pretty sure it is described elsewhere online.

?

?

A milling attachment for one of these only suitable for light milling.? VERY light milling.

?

Don’t know if you have any lathe experience.? But for these small lathes I recommend HSS (High Speed Steel) tool bits, carbide inserts nor carbide tipped.? Also, it seems the cheap “carbide tipped” bits tend to be exceedingly low quality.? Although, using something like inserts will work, you will likely get better results with HSS.? And if you don’t know already, learning how to properly grind the angles on a tool bit (meaning you need a grinder, preferably with at least 6 inch wheels or an even fancier tool sharpening machine if you want) is sort of a first step.

?

Regarding the lathe itself, the things to check are, well, everything.? People report all manner of misalignments, crud where there shouldn’t be crud, sloppy gib fit, you name it.? Some have called it a “kit” based on how much work they have put into it to improve it.? But for some, it has been fine out of the box.? It probably has a lot to do with what somebody is trying to do with it.? And what they view as “good enough”.? Some give the impression that all they do is improve the lathe and make accessories for the lathe and perhaps never make a part for anything else.? That’s OK to make lathe itself a hobby, but it just seems curious to me.

?

You will probably find that the lowest power feed rate isn’t extremely low often leading to a “grooved” looking finish (depending on tool bit geometry too, of course).? So you might want to consider looking into modifications to make it slower.? Some have done this with a mechanical reduction.? Some have done it by separately motorizing the lead screw.? There is no end to how to modify these things.

?

Chuck K.

?

Sent from for Windows

?

From: MZ Rider
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2022 10:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

?

?380 courtesy of Amazon and ?20 off because I was using Microsoft Edge to run the Amazon programme (I think that was it). Ordered Monday and delivered today, Thursday in a big wooden box that took some getting into.?40kg box and driver lifted it straight out onto to my small sack barrow.

?With the help of her indoors lifted it onto the bench. Fitted the bottom tray and the four rubber feet. Nice and heavy so does not need bolting down. Top slide handle was broken off so i think a new one will be the first job, otherwise everything else was there. Just the basics at this price, 3 jaw chuck with the extra set of jaws for larger items. Few tools and guard, and centre.?

Switched on it works. Interesting in that it seems to be factory packed but came with a UK 3 pin plug, obviously 50Hz 220volts.

Bit chilly in the garage, snowed today. Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me, also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed positions for the dial.

So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a closer look over the weekend.?

Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [ckinzer@...]


Re: New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

开云体育

I don’t think there is any advantage to metal over plastic for all the main gears.? You could instead put that money to something more useful.

?

A chip guarding cover over the apron gear is probably a very good first addition to the lathe.? I think most make this themselves from thin plastic.? But you can buy one ready-cut from this eBay seller (and I have no association with this).? The photo there shows you what it looks like and I’m pretty sure it is described elsewhere online.

?

?

A milling attachment for one of these only suitable for light milling.? VERY light milling.

?

Don’t know if you have any lathe experience.? But for these small lathes I recommend HSS (High Speed Steel) tool bits, carbide inserts nor carbide tipped.? Also, it seems the cheap “carbide tipped” bits tend to be exceedingly low quality.? Although, using something like inserts will work, you will likely get better results with HSS.? And if you don’t know already, learning how to properly grind the angles on a tool bit (meaning you need a grinder, preferably with at least 6 inch wheels or an even fancier tool sharpening machine if you want) is sort of a first step.

?

Regarding the lathe itself, the things to check are, well, everything.? People report all manner of misalignments, crud where there shouldn’t be crud, sloppy gib fit, you name it.? Some have called it a “kit” based on how much work they have put into it to improve it.? But for some, it has been fine out of the box.? It probably has a lot to do with what somebody is trying to do with it.? And what they view as “good enough”.? Some give the impression that all they do is improve the lathe and make accessories for the lathe and perhaps never make a part for anything else.? That’s OK to make lathe itself a hobby, but it just seems curious to me.

?

You will probably find that the lowest power feed rate isn’t extremely low often leading to a “grooved” looking finish (depending on tool bit geometry too, of course).? So you might want to consider looking into modifications to make it slower.? Some have done this with a mechanical reduction.? Some have done it by separately motorizing the lead screw.? There is no end to how to modify these things.

?

Chuck K.

?

Sent from for Windows

?

From: MZ Rider
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2022 10:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

?

?380 courtesy of Amazon and ?20 off because I was using Microsoft Edge to run the Amazon programme (I think that was it). Ordered Monday and delivered today, Thursday in a big wooden box that took some getting into.?40kg box and driver lifted it straight out onto to my small sack barrow.

?With the help of her indoors lifted it onto the bench. Fitted the bottom tray and the four rubber feet. Nice and heavy so does not need bolting down. Top slide handle was broken off so i think a new one will be the first job, otherwise everything else was there. Just the basics at this price, 3 jaw chuck with the extra set of jaws for larger items. Few tools and guard, and centre.?

Switched on it works. Interesting in that it seems to be factory packed but came with a UK 3 pin plug, obviously 50Hz 220volts.

Bit chilly in the garage, snowed today. Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me, also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed positions for the dial.

So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a closer look over the weekend.?

Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [ckinzer@...]

_._,_._,_

?


New 7x12 delivered and on the bench.

 

?380 courtesy of Amazon and ?20 off because I was using Microsoft Edge to run the Amazon programme (I think that was it). Ordered Monday and delivered today, Thursday in a big wooden box that took some getting into.?40kg box and driver lifted it straight out onto to my small sack barrow.

?With the help of her indoors lifted it onto the bench. Fitted the bottom tray and the four rubber feet. Nice and heavy so does not need bolting down. Top slide handle was broken off so i think a new one will be the first job, otherwise everything else was there. Just the basics at this price, 3 jaw chuck with the extra set of jaws for larger items. Few tools and guard, and centre.?

Switched on it works. Interesting in that it seems to be factory packed but came with a UK 3 pin plug, obviously 50Hz 220volts.

Bit chilly in the garage, snowed today. Reckon I will need to do a bit of fitting as a bit noisy using the main slide hand wheel near the head stock.
I do not need a longer version so the 7x12 is enough for me, also much cheaper than larger variations.?
Probably go for 4 jaw independent, maybe a quick change tool post and thinking about a vertical table for milling.
Not likely to do much thread cutting but might look to getting metal gears for the main drive. See how it goes.
I have a tachometer so will work out the approximate? speed positions for the dial.

So any tips and points to really check out as I hopefully have a closer look over the weekend.?


Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 09:24 AM, Mark Kimball wrote:
Fortunately the spring dimensions aren't all that critical.
If there's a terrible shop mishap and the 'safety' spring gets separated from your chuck key, it might be about the right size to fit over the leadscrew.


Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 06:59 AM, paul mcclintic wrote:
I think the spring you used might have been a 9434K113 which has a 0.39" I.D. to go over the 10MM (0.394") shaft. The 9434K72 only has a 0.296" I.D..
You're right!? I'd forgotten that I ordered the wrong size.? I found one with the right dimensions at a local hardware store.? Fortunately the spring dimensions aren't all that critical.

Apologies for the misinformation, and thanks for the correction.

-Mark


Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?

 

Hi Mark,
I have been following this interesting discussion on cross slide travel mods and anti backlash mods. I have had my go at it a few years back and am happy with what I have so I am just following along with interest.
These days I am focusing on a couple of 24 volt DC motor mods for my little Unimat DB200 lathes. (Variable Speed Control is the goal. I am having fun while learning new skills.)?
Dick


Re: Extending cross slide travel -- what is the currently accepted best method?

 

On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 12:14 PM, Mark Kimball wrote:
I bought the spring from McMaster-Carr, P/N 9434K72.? It compresses down to? .13" wide so the gap between the nuts has to be a little more than that.
I think the spring you used might have been a 9434K113 which has a 0.39" I.D. to go over the 10MM (0.394") shaft. The 9434K72 only has a 0.296" I.D..


Re: Mods, was Different Prices - such a range!

 

开云体育


Not exactly a 7x lathe, but close...



Between 12 minutes and 13 minutes . Here is an answer on 1 brand & model of lathe...
.
.
.
.

On 3/17/2022 3:42 PM, Kaj Wiik wrote:

Anyone have experience of Vevor 7x14 lathe, they state that "Spindle is supported by precision tapered roller bearings, spindle accuracy within 0.01 mm.", so no need of spindle bearing mod?


Cheers,
Kaj


On Thu, 17 Mar 2022 at 13:54, Craig Hopewell via <cch80124=[email protected]> wrote:
On Wed, Mar 16, 2022 at 07:45 PM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I like plastic change gears. They are more quiet and are the weak link in case of a crash.
If adjusted correctly will last forever. I have had the same set for over eleven years.
Never broke a plastic change gear.? ? My current 7x does not have headstock gears, but never had a problem on a previous 7x with 2-speed headstock.? ? There are many issues with these lathes - the plastic gears are not one of them.? ?JMO
?
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA



Re: Mini lathe gear noise

 


Hi Chad,

Quinn Dunki (Blondihacks) has talked about the way Chinese gears are made and apparently they can be a but rough. You might need to polish then a bit with a file. This will not affect the gear ratios but may increase backlash a bit.

If you do want try different gears for cutting the same thread you might find my free online computer program useful:?? (I must fix the old link in my signature file, if I can find out how to change it!

Evan

Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox and power feed.
My Free Online Geartrain Software:
My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: ?
Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output:?


Re: Mini lathe gear noise

 

I just looked at where the indents were and just used a small drill bit to make them a tad deeper and wider. Not much at all. But now without looking, I can feel and know where the lever and detent is. As to drilling. Put the lever where you think it should be and tap it. It should make enough of a mark for you to punch it a bit more for drilling purposes. Drill just enough to work. Later if needed you can drill more. And yes, I sanded a bit off of the spring to make it easier to pull but not enough that it will come loose. The deeper detente also help keep it engaged.

George

On Monday, March 28, 2022, 02:41:15 PM PDT, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:


This was the case on my machine, too; I tried to do a large threading operation (I think it was 13tpi ) and the lever would just pop out of the detent. Actually calling them ‘center punches’ was generous.

You could probably use JBWeld to fill in the old ones if you have to drill new ones.

On Mar 28, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote:

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?Chad Rebuck
Sent:?Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise
?
thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?
?
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via??<j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.?


--?
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD


Re: Mini lathe gear noise

 

开云体育

This was the case on my machine, too; I tried to do a large threading operation (I think it was 13tpi ) and the lever would just pop out of the detent. Actually calling them ‘center punches’ was generous.

You could probably use JBWeld to fill in the old ones if you have to drill new ones.

On Mar 28, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...> wrote:

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?Chad Rebuck
Sent:?Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise
?
thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?
?
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via??<j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.?


--?
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD


Re: Mini lathe gear noise

 

开云体育

On my machine the divots were more like a center punch than a drilled hole. The piece you are drilling into is cast iron so welding is probably not the best option. Brazing would be better but I don’t think you’ll have to do that. Cast iron drills easily so even if the new divot is close, you’ll probably still be able to drill the new hole. Don’t go crazy on the hole. It doesn’t take much.

?

Michael - California, USA

Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16

LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

?

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chad Rebuck
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 6:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise

?

thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?

?

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:

Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.

Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.


Re: Mini lathe gear noise

 

thanks for all the feedback.? I'll take it apart soon to check all the gear teeth and come up with some ways to minimize any slop.? If I find the forward/reverse lever detent divots aren't in the ideal spot, what is a good way to correct it?? Fill in the divots by welding and create new divots?? I 'm assuming the divots will be close and I won't be able to drill an entirely new hole... any new hole will be partially on top of the old.? I haven't looked at this at all so I'm only making some assumptions.?


On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 9:04 PM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie=[email protected]> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.