This what I use? It was low cost in 1972 . 
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
Here's plenty of info on how anaerobic adhesives work:
? <??>
Roy
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
I can second Roy's retaining compound recommendation. I bought that after some tips for some bench sander rollers I made, and had to use it for something else recently which I foolishly thought I needed to disassemble afterward (forget doing that). Mine is actually the 680. Those Loctite products are weird. They actually dry from a lack of air, unlike every other adhesive that needs it. If you squeeze some out on the table, it'll sit there forever.
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I have 2" too.
I found if did not need the longer stoke would get way. I use the one inch 99% of time.?
Dave?
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I use a 1" travel indicator that I epoxied a magnet onto the back of. This works the same as a clamped-on indicator, but I can use it on two different lathes and also my mini-mill. It would've been better to use a 2" travel indicator, but I didn¡¯t have one at the?time.
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I use a 1" travel indicator that I epoxied a magnet onto the back of. This works the same as a clamped-on indicator, but I can use it on two different lathes and also my mini-mill. It would've been better to use a 2" travel indicator, but I didn¡¯t have one at the?time.
Mike Taglieri?
That works great .
I have same thing.
Dave?
John Mattis 8:34am? ?
For longitudinal travel on my mini lathe I use a 1 inch travel dial indicator thet clamps to the lathe bed. It can be adjusted or removed.
I used the 1 inch travel one
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That works great .
I have same thing.
Dave?
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John Mattis 8:34am? ?
For longitudinal travel on my mini lathe I use a 1 inch travel dial indicator thet clamps to the lathe bed. It can be adjusted or removed.
I used the 1 inch travel one
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On 3/30/24 9:38 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
There are some ways to design
zero backlash.? I don't know what is in a Trav-a-dial.? But
one way is to use a split gear (imaging two thin gear disks)
that are spring loaded in opposite rotation directions so
there is no space between teeth on the mating gear.? Another
is to spring load the entire gear to keep it fully meshed with
another gear.? Another is to simply make the gears precise
enough, so they have little or no backlash.? The only one I
remember personally seeing in anything is the split gear
scheme.
This is not from a
Trav-a-dial, but just a general image of what the split gear
scheme looks like.
In searching around for some
disassembly info, I did find a mention that they used
anti-backlash gears, but not specifically how, such as in this
statement.
"...
I did not want to open the thing up again. The
anti-backlash gears are what is being wound up that the
wire holds in place during assembly. This is very
important to make sure that there is no backlash in the
measurement. .."
Another
post mentioned that older units had anti-backlash gears,
so maybe newer ones don't?? Or do it some other way?
That split gear is a pretty
slick setup , I can think of a few applications where one
could / should have been used .
thanks
animal
I then found a YouTube with a
fellow disassembling one.? At bout 8:00 you can see the spring
loaded gear.? However, it seems to be a single gear spring
loaded in one direction.? I'm not able to figure out in my
mind how that works, maybe somebody else can visualize it.?
However, it is not spring loaded for now reason and must be
the main ant-backlash component.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
As a former Trav-a-dial user, I don't know how they
did it, but there was no detectable backlash whatsoever.
The needle simply reversed direction with the carriage
with no pause. It was very precise engineering, which is
why they were so expensive new.
Someone suggested a magnetic mount... the Trav-a-dial
required considerable pressure toward the vertical front
way face to have the microscopic random pattern on the
hardened wheel emboss a mating pattern on the way, well
beyond, I suspect, what a manageable size magnet could
hold.
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There are some ways to design zero backlash.? I don't know what is in a Trav-a-dial.? But one way is to use a split gear (imaging two thin gear disks) that are spring loaded in opposite rotation directions so there is no space between teeth on the mating gear.? Another is to spring load the entire gear to keep it fully meshed with another gear.? Another is to simply make the gears precise enough, so they have little or no backlash.? The only one I remember personally seeing in anything is the split gear scheme.
This is not from a Trav-a-dial, but just a general image of what the split gear scheme looks like.
In searching around for some disassembly info, I did find a mention that they used anti-backlash gears, but not specifically how, such as in this statement.
"... I did not want to open the thing up again. The anti-backlash gears are what is being wound up that the wire holds in place during assembly. This is very important to make sure that there is no backlash in the measurement. .."
Another post mentioned that older units had anti-backlash gears, so maybe newer ones don't?? Or do it some other way?
I then found a YouTube with a fellow disassembling one.? At bout 8:00 you can see the spring loaded gear.? However, it seems to be a single gear spring loaded in one direction.? I'm not able to figure out in my mind how that works, maybe somebody else can visualize it.? However, it is not spring loaded for now reason and must be the main ant-backlash component.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 08:59:40 AM PDT, paraflyr <frechettejoe4@...> wrote:
As a former Trav-a-dial user, I don't know how they did it, but there was no detectable backlash whatsoever. The needle simply reversed direction with the carriage with no pause. It was very precise engineering, which is why they were so expensive new.
Someone suggested a magnetic mount... the Trav-a-dial required considerable pressure toward the vertical front way face to have the microscopic random pattern on the hardened wheel emboss a mating pattern on the way, well beyond, I suspect, what a manageable size magnet could hold.
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As a former Trav-a-dial user, I don't know how they did it, but there was no detectable backlash whatsoever. The needle simply reversed direction with the carriage with no pause. It was very precise engineering, which is why they were so expensive new.
Someone suggested a magnetic mount... the Trav-a-dial required considerable pressure toward the vertical front way face to have the microscopic random pattern on the hardened wheel emboss a mating pattern on the way, well beyond, I suspect, what a manageable size magnet could hold.
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For longitudinal travel on my mini lathe I use a 1 inch?travel dial indicator thet clamps to the lathe bed. It can be adjusted or removed. I used the 1 inch travel one because?it was what had. I would buy or use a 2 inch travel one. John
I think thevonly complain was if need glass they where hard to read.?
Back in 1970's most shops remove and put DRO on. Then complain about skipping after the glass scale got oily or coolant?
So never put DRO'S on lathes
I only put DRO'S on mills.?
Dave?
OldToolmaker 6:09am? ?
Digital Scales are best. They tell you exact position and you don¡¯t need to think about back lash. I have had them on my minilathe for years
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I think thevonly complain was if need glass they where hard to read.?
Back in 1970's most shops remove and put DRO on. Then complain about skipping after the glass scale got oily or coolant?
So never put DRO'S on lathes
I only put DRO'S on mills.?
Dave?
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OldToolmaker 6:09am? ?
Digital Scales are best. They tell you exact position and you don¡¯t need to think about back lash. I have had them on my minilathe for years
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Digital Scales are best. They tell you exact position and you don¡¯t need to think about back lash. I have had them on my minilathe for years.
Dick
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Thanks for the explanation. Thats very neat. I wonder how they do with backlash due to direction changes.
Tom
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All light bulbs are fire hazards if not installed as intenedd in fixtures and especially if you cover the bulb. ? ? There is no need to resort i using lights are heaters because you can buy a ¡°real¡± heater for under $10.
¡°Brooder bulbs¡± might be better but those still made to be used in a specialied fixture. ? ? ?Try ¡°reptile heaters¡±. ?These are designed ?to be place under rocks and such. ?very safe and they don¡¯t burn out. ? Amazon has them, Aliexpress has then for 1/3rd the price and local pet shops sell them too.
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On Mar 29, 2024, at 10:06?AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
A good replacement for standard incandescents would be to look into brooder bulbs - used for keeping eggs warm and also for reptiles.
A lot of them put out huge amounts of heat, but there are smaller ones.? Basically designed to skew towards more heat and less light.
There are also ceramic heaters that screw into standard bulb sockets for the same purposes.
This is probably a great solution if you can keep the target equipment in some sort of cabinet or enclosure.?
On Friday, March 29th, 2024 at 12:59 PM, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
The only incandescent buthat are tare hard to find now are 100 watt bulbs. 25 W bulbs are available online and in stores everywhere.
Mike Taglieri
Here in Rust Central, Florida near the ocean, I can make things rust by just looking at them. My solution is to wire two 25 W bulbs in series, and they give out just enough heat. I used 2 ceramic light sockets and put the lamps in the bottom of my cabinet. Might have trouble finding incandescent lamps these days, maybe the heater is a better idea...Joel
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A good replacement for standard incandescents would be to look into brooder bulbs - used for keeping eggs warm and also for reptiles.
A lot of them put out huge amounts of heat, but there are smaller ones.? Basically designed to skew towards more heat and less light.
There are also ceramic heaters that screw into standard bulb sockets for the same purposes.
This is probably a great solution if you can keep the target equipment in some sort of cabinet or enclosure.?
On Friday, March 29th, 2024 at 12:59 PM, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
The only incandescent buthat are tare hard to find now are 100 watt bulbs. 25 W bulbs are available online and in stores everywhere.
Mike Taglieri
Here in Rust Central, Florida near the ocean, I can make things rust by just looking at them. My solution is to wire two 25 W bulbs in series, and they give out just enough heat. I used 2 ceramic light sockets and put the lamps in the bottom of my cabinet. Might have trouble finding incandescent lamps these days, maybe the heater is a better idea...Joel
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The only incandescent buthat are tare hard to find now are 100 watt bulbs.? 25 W bulbs are available online and in stores everywhere.
?Mike Taglieri?
Here in Rust Central, Florida near the ocean, I can make things rust by just looking at them.? My solution is to wire two 25 W bulbs in ?series, and they give out just enough heat.? I used 2 ceramic light sockets and put the lamps in the bottom of my cabinet.? Might have trouble finding incandescent lamps these days, maybe the heater is a better idea...Joel
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I am surprised the Chinese have not made a Digital Travel A Dial. Maybe with a magnetic mount so use it more than one tool.
Dave?
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Chris Albertson,
Sorry if I missed the info, but I do not see (can't find) type of
lube you use.
Be WELL & GOOD LUCK!
Mrs. RA
- - - - - - - - - - - -
On 3/28/2024 4:38 PM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
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I have some cans of bike chain lube. ? These are old ones I don¡¯t
like to use on my bike but they have other uses. ?The formulations
vary wildly. ?Some are wax-based some are oil with a solvent mixed
on some have teflon or graphite. ??
A wax-based lube that has solvent mixed with it works well on
tools. ?Just like on a chain, it can flow into the inside and
then the solvent flashes off and there is a thin wax coating
that does not attract dirt and is mostly water resistant.
The kind I like on my bike is very thin and does not last
long, they say ¡°reapply every 200 miles¡±. Just this morning I
cleaned an applied this stuff to a bunch of mini-pliers on the
electronics workbench.
If you see some for sale try it.MUCH better then WD40 and
about as easy to apply from a spray can.
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On Fri, 29 Mar 2024, Joel Blatt via groups.io wrote: Here in Rust Central, Florida near the ocean, I can make things rust by just looking at them. ?My solution is to wire two 25 W bulbs in ?series, and they give out just
enough heat. ?I used 2 ceramic light sockets and put the lamps in the bottom of my cabinet. ?Might have trouble finding incandescent lamps these days, maybe the heater
is a better idea...Joel _._,_._,_ i'm in central gulf coast you use heat, i use cool i keep a little 9 inch desktop fan running 24/7 365 my shop has no environmental controls sometimes it's foggy inside :)
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Here in Rust Central, Florida near the ocean, I can make things rust by just looking at them. ?My solution is to wire two 25 W bulbs in ?series, and they give out just enough heat. ?I used 2 ceramic light sockets and put the lamps in the bottom of my cabinet. ?Might have trouble finding incandescent lamps these days, maybe the heater is a better idea...Joel
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davesmith1800
John Mattis
OldToolmaker
chrisser