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Just to clarify- I am looking for suggestions for the best milling cutters to start with - sizes and types. Thanks.

Thanks, Martin, but my question was about milling cutters...end mills, fly cutter, etc....I should have stated it more clearly.

If they're that different, it might be worth it to change them so they're not. Put the taller compound on the faceplate and turn it down until they match. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

Get half a dozen 3/8" square HSS blanks and learn to grind LH & RH tools. Later on you can buy a set of indexable tools - same size shanks. Avoid toolsets with brazed on carbide tool tips - they are

7x14 lathe with 500 watt motor, no Hi-Lo gearbox. I have a milling attachment and collet faceplate and collets. What cutters should I get to start? I don't have any specific projects in mind, yet.

That's a pretty handy tool , but your much better off using a test dial indicator . ??? ??? animal

It's an uphill? battle, Michael. Keep on fightin! :)

I’ve thrown this out there a few times, and I’ll do it once more in an attempt to clear things up. I was taught that when you have threaded portions of the nut on the top and bottom, it is called

Dunno for sure - I've never used one of those! I use a DTI + a Mitutoyo Zero It: < https://www.penntoolco.com/mitutoyo-zero-it-series-950-950-110/ > Roy

I'm just going to dedicate a couple of tools in their holders for the Vevor/RealBull. Or put tools in the stock holders and shim them to the right height to use on the Vevor. I'd never get a shim

Yes ! I forgot that ! I put new hardware in because the flat of the bolts were not flat. Once I did that it was much better. Most? likely the next time if I take it apart again, all hardware will be

Ok. Mine has two nuts or half nuts. On one area is a screw or bolt that limits the closing distance. I really had to clean up that mechanism including deepening the hole for the ball so that the lever

I had the same experience of having brass gibs warping after machining, so I did some research on the topic. You can find the discussion and references here :

So a simple 3.5 mm shim on the Vevor will leave you where you wanted to be? <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:

Check the contact surfaces between the nut and the tailstock, the locking plate and the underside of the ways, and on the ways themselves. You get better hold if the contact surfaces on the ways is

I think the half-nut arrangement can vary. I now understand that the Vevor I bought is a RealBull machine, and my Microlux is a Sieg. The half-nut arrangement isn't the same on both of them. And, I

My only machine shop class was in the 1970s, so we have that in common! I use the technique described by Joe Pieczynski on YouTube for cutting RH threads - tool upside down, lathe turning in reverse,

" If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form." It CAN be useful to heat brass, copper and aluminum if they've

OK! Another thing to check! :) Thanks.

Good idea. I'm going to do that when I get back to 'fine tuning' the leadscrew and half nuts.